Wave height (regular and irregular waves) reduction in 2m water depth over a 40-m-long salt marsh test section in a large scale laboratory flume

Coastal communities around the world face increasing risk from flooding as a result of rising sea level, increasing storminess, and land subsidence. Salt marshes can act as natural buffer zones, providing protection from waves during storms. However, the effectiveness of marshes in protecting the coastline during extreme events when water levels and waves are highest is poorly understood. Here, we experimentally assess wave dissipation under storm surge conditions in a 300-m-long wave flume that contains a transplanted section of natural salt marsh. We find that the presence of marsh vegetation causes considerable wave attenuation, even when water levels and waves are high. From a comparison with experiments without vegetation, we estimate that up to 60% of observed wave reduction is attributed to vegetation. We also find that although waves progressively flatten and break vegetation stems and thereby reduce dissipation, the marsh substrate remained remarkably stable and resistant to surface erosion under all conditions.The effectiveness of storm wave dissipation and the resilience of tidal marshes even at extreme conditions suggest that salt marsh ecosystems can be a valuable component of coastal protection schemes.

Vortex migration caused by travelling magnetic wave in a 2 in. diameter YBa2Cu3O7-δ thin film

We provide experimental evidence for a vortex migration phenomenon in YBa2Cu3O7-δ (YBCO) thin film caused by travelling magnetic wave. The experiment is carried out on a 2 in. diameter YBCO thin film with a circular-type magnetic flux pump. We found that the travelling wave helps the vortices migrate into the centre of the sample: after the zero-field cooling process, the increase of the flux density in the centre is four times larger than the amplitude of the travelling wave. The reason for this massive vortex migration is probably due to the magnetic stress variation caused by the travelling wave: the magnetic stress increases locally in the crest region while decreases locally in the trough region, which could help the vortices to move locally. A comparison shows that the magnetization by standing wave can be easily predicted by Bean's model while travelling wave causes vortex migration generally much larger than the prediction of Bean's model. It is possible that travelling magnetic wave can be an effective way to magnetize a type II superconductor in considering this unusual vortex dynamics. © 2013 AIP Publishing LLC.

A Two Dimensional Experimental Investigation of Slamming of an Oscillating Wave Surge Converter

This paper describes a series of experiments undertaken to investigate the slamming of an Oscillating Wave Surge Converter in extreme sea states. These two-dimensional experiments were undertaken in the Wave Flume at Ecole Centrale Marseille. Images from a high speed camera are used to identify the physics of the slamming process. A single pressure sensor is used to record the characteristic of the pressure. Finally numerical results are compared to the output from the experiments.

Wave driven devices for the oxygenation of bottom layers

This thesis discusses the design of a system to use wave energy to pump oxygen-rich surface water towards the bottom of the sea. A simple device, called OXYFLUX, is proposed in a scale model and tested in a wave flume in order to validate its supposed theoretical functioning. Once its effectiveness has been demonstrated, a overset mesh, CFD model has been developed and validated by means of the physical model results. Both numerical and physical results show how wave height affects the behavior of the device. Wave heights lower than about 0.5 m overtop the floater and fall into it. As the wave height increases, phase shift between water surface and vertical displacement of the device also increases its influence on the functioning mechanism. In these situations, with wave heights between 0.5 and 0.9 m, the downward flux is due to the higher head established in the water column inside the device respect to the outside wave field. Furthermore, as the wave height grows over 0.9 m, water flux inverts the direction thanks to depression caused by the wave crest pass over the floater. In this situation the wave crest goes over the float but does not go into it and it draws water from the bottom to the surface through the device pipe. By virtue of these results a new shape of the floater has been designed and tested in CFD model. Such new geometry is based on the already known Lazzari’s profile and it aims to grab as much water as possible from the wave crest during the emergence of the floater from the wave field. Results coming from the new device are compared with the first ones in order to identify differences between the two shapes and their possible areas of application.

Direct estimation wave setup as a medium level in swash

The extreme runup is a key parameter for a shore risk analysis in which the accurate and quantitative estimation of the upper limit reached by waves is essential. Runup can be better approximated by splitting the setup and swash semi-amplitude contributions. In an experimental study recording setup becomes difficult due to infragravity motions within the surf zone, hence, it would be desirable to measure the setup with available methodologies and devices. In this research, an analysis is made of evaluated the convenience of direct estimation setup as the medium level in the swash zone for experimental runup analysis through a physical model. A physical mobile bed model was setup in a wave flume at the Laboratory for Maritime Experimentation of CEDEX. The wave flume is 36 metres long, 6.5 metres wide and 1.3 metres high. The physical model was designed to cover a reasonable range of parameters, three different slopes (1/50, 1/30 and 1/20), two sand grain sizes (D50 = 0.12 mm and 0.70 mm) and a range for the Iribarren number in deep water (ξ0) from 0.1 to 0.6. Best formulations were chosen for estimating a theoretical setup in the physical model application. Once theoretical setup had been obtained, a comparison was made with an estimation of the setup directly as a medium level of the oscillation in swash usually considered in extreme runup analyses. A good correlation was noted between both theoretical and time-averaging setup and a relation is proposed. Extreme runup is analysed through the sum of setup and semi-amplitude of swash. An equation is proposed that could be applied in strong foreshore slope-dependent reflective beaches.

Kinetics of tidal resuspension of microbiota: Testing the effects of sediment cohesiveness and bioturbation using flume experiments

Resuspension of the top few sediment layers of tidal mud flats is known to enhance planktonic biomass of microbiota (benthic diatoms and bacteria). This process is mainly controlled by tidal shear stress and cohesiveness of mud, and is also influenced by bioturbation activities. Laboratory experiments in a race track flume were performed to test the interactive effects of these factors on both the critical entrainment and resuspension kinetics of microbiota from silt-clay sediments from the Marennes-Oleron Bay, France. The marine snail Hydrobia ulvae was used to mimic surface bioturbation activities. As expected, the kinetics of microbial resuspension versus shear stress were largely controlled by the cohesiveness of silt-clay sediments. However, our results indicate that the effect of surface tracking by H. ulvae on microbial resuspension was clearly dependent on the interaction between sediment cohesiveness and shear velocity. Evidence was also found that microphytobenthos and bacteria are not simultaneously resuspended from silt-clay bioturbated sediments. This supports the theory that diatoms within the easily eroded mucus matrix behave actively and bacteria adhering to fine silt particles eroded at higher critical shear velocities behave passively.

Experimental Study on Flow and Sediment Movement in Cavity Circulations

This paper reports a flume experiment of flow and sediment movement in a cavity. The flow velocity, sediment concentration and the mechanism of hydraulic sorting in the circulation flow are discussed. The quantity and patterns of sediment deposition in the circulation area are studied as well.

Influence of sediment acidification and water flow on sediment acceptance and dispersal of juvenile soft-shell clams (Mya arenaria L.)

Although ocean acidification is expected to reduce carbonate saturation and yield negative impacts on open-ocean calcifying organisms in the near future, acidification in coastal ecosystems may already be affecting these organisms. Few studies have addressed the effects of sedimentary saturation state on benthic invertebrates. Here, we investigate whether sedimentary aragonite saturation (Omega aragonite) and proton concentration ([H+]) affect burrowing and dispersal rates of juvenile soft-shell clams (Mya arenaria) in a laboratory flume experiment. Two size classes of juvenile clams (0.5-1.5 mm and 1.51-2.5 mm) were subjected to a range of sediment Omega aragonite and [H+] conditions within the range of typical estuarine sediments (Omega aragonite 0.21-1.87; pH 6.8-7.8; [H+] 1.58 × 10**-8-1.51 × 10**- 7) by the addition of varying amounts of CO2, while overlying water pH was kept constant ~ 7.8 (Omega aragonite ~ 1.97). There was a significant positive relationship between the percent of juvenile clams burrowed in still water and Omega aragonite and a significant negative relationship between burrowing and [H+]. Clams were subsequently exposed to one of two different flow conditions (flume; 11 cm/s and 23 cm/s) and there was a significant negative relationship between Omega aragonite and dispersal, regardless of clam size class and flow speed. No apparent relationship was evident between dispersal and [H+]. The results of this study suggest that sediment acidification may play an important role in soft-shell clam recruitment and dispersal. When assessing the impacts of open-ocean and coastal acidification on infaunal organisms, future studies should address the effects of sediment acidification to adequately understand how calcifying organisms may be affected by shifting pH conditions.

Estudio en modelo físico a escala reducida de la viabilidad del empleo de buques fondeados como diques flotantes para abrigo portuario y defensa de costas

Los diques flotantes son estructuras que atenúan la energía del oleaje fundamentalmente por reflexión y turbulencia. Aunque presentan importantes ventajas en términos constructivos y medioambientales, su efectividad es limitada y en la práctica sólo se emplean en condiciones climáticas propias de zonas con oleajes poco energéticos. Por otro lado, el buque es la estructura flotante por excelencia y su empleo para el abrigo portuario y costero en determinadas situaciones puede aportar las ventajas propias de los diques flotantes, al tiempo que ampliar el rango de oleajes frente a los que estas estructuras son efectivas. El propósito de esta Tesis Doctoral es evaluar la viabilidad del empleo de buques fondeados como diques flotantes para el abrigo portuario y costero. Para ello, se han realizado ensayos en modelo físico a escala reducida en un canal de oleaje del Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEPYC), con el objeto de determinar los coeficientes de transmisión (Ct), reflexión (Cr) y disipación (Cd) de barcos de diversas tipologías y dimensiones, sometidos a diferentes oleajes en distintas situaciones de carga, fondeo y profundidad del emplazamiento. La efectividad de los buques empleados en los ensayos se ha determinado mediante el análisis de dichos coeficientes y su variación con la altura de ola y el periodo de los oleajes incidentes. Además, se han registrado las fuerzas existentes en las cadenas de fondeo con objeto de comprobar la viabilidad del mismo y facilitar una estimación del diámetro de las cadenas que serían necesarias en cada situación. Posteriormente, se han aplicado los resultados obtenidos en los ensayos en modelo físico reducido a dos situaciones de abrigo portuario y costero. La primera aplicación consiste en el empleo de buques como defensa temporal en fases constructivas por medios marítimos, partiendo de la hipótesis de que, actuando como diques flotantes, puede proteger la zona de la obra y ampliar las ventanas temporales de periodos de actividad en obra marítima. Las actividades que se han analizado son las de dragado de fondos, vertidos de material granular y transporte y fondeo de cajones flotantes para diques y muelles. La segunda aplicación estudiada es el empleo de buques para la protección costera y la formación de salientes y tómbolos. Los coeficientes de transmisión obtenidos se han introducido en formulaciones analíticas que permiten prever la evolución de la costa frente a la protección procurada por el buque actuando como dique flotante exento. Finalmente se han redactado las conclusiones de la investigación y se han propuesto nuevas líneas de investigación relacionadas con esta Tesis Doctoral. Floating breakwaters are structures which attenuate wave energy mainly by reflection and turbulence. They display advantages in terms of construction and ecology, amongst others. However, their use is restricted in practice to certain areas with good climatic conditions and low energy waves. Moreover, ships are the most common floating structures and their use for port and coastal shelter in certain situations could widen the range of applicability in addition to the rest of advantages of floating breakwaters. The purpose of this research is to assess the feasibility of ships anchored as floating breakwaters for port and coastal protection. To that end, tests in a scaled down physical model have been conducted in a wave flume in the Centre of Port and Coastal Studies (CEPYC), in order to determine the transmission (Ct), reflection (Cr) and dissipation (Cd) coefficients of ships of diverse types and dimensions, under different wave, load, anchoring and depth conditions. The effectiveness of the several ships used in the tests has been determined by analyzing these coefficients and their variation with the wave height and period of the incident waves. In addition, the existing forces in the anchor chains have been registered to verify the feasibility of the anchoring systems, as well as to provide an estimation of the diameter of the chains that would be needed in each situation. Subsequently, the results of the tests have been applied to two situations of port and coastal protection. The first one is the use of ships as a temporary defense for maritime works with construction phases by maritime means, on the assumption that, acting as floating breakwaters, they can protect the work area and increase the time windows of periods of activity in maritime works. Dredging, dumping of granular material and transport and positioning of big concrete caissons for docks and breakwaters were the activities analyzed. The second situation is the use of ships for coastal protection and forming salients of sand or tombolos. Some analytical formulations which take into account the transmission coefficients from the tests have been used to predict the evolution of the coastline under the protection given by the ships acting as detached floating breakwaters. Finally, the conclusions of the research have been addressed and the proposal of new lines of work related to the topic has been made.

Perfil de playas sustentadas : estudio hidrodinámico y experimental : directrices de diseño

Las playas sustentadas por medio de un pie sumergido son una atractiva alternativa de diseño de regeneración de playas especialmente cuando las condiciones física del emplazamiento o las características de la arena nativa y de préstamo producen perfiles de alimentación que no se intersectan. La observación y propuesta de este tipo de solución data de los años 1960’s, así como la experiencia internacional en la construcción de este tipo de playas. Sin embargo, a pesar de su utilización y los estudios en campo y laboratorio, no se dispone de criterios ingenieriles que apoyen el diseño de las mismas. Esta tesis consiste en un análisis experimental del perfil de playas sustentadas en un pie sumergido (o colgadas) que se concreta en una propuesta de directrices de diseño general que permiten estimar la ubicación y características geométricas del pie sumergido frente a un oleaje y material que constituye la playa determinados. En la tesis se describe el experimento bidimensional realizado en el modelo físico de fondo móvil, donde se combinan cinco tipos de oleaje con tres configuraciones del pie sumergido (“Sin estructura”, configuración baja o “Estructura 1” y configuración alta o “Estructura 2”), se presentan los resultados obtenidos y se realiza una discusión detallada de las implicaciones de los resultados desde el punto de vista hidrodinámico utilizando monomios adimensionales. Se ha realizado un análisis detallado del estado del arte sobre playas colgadas, presentando el concepto y las experiencias de realizaciones en distintos países. Se ha realizado una cuidadosa revisión de la literatura publicada sobre estudios experimentales de playas colgadas, modelos teóricos y otras cuestiones auxiliares, necesarias para la formulación de la metodología de la tesis. El estudio realizado se ha estructurado en dos fases. En la primera fase se ha realizado una experimentación en un modelo físico de fondo móvil construido en las instalaciones del Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEPYC) del Centro de Estudios y Experimentación de Obras Públicas (CEDEX), consistente en un canal de 36 m de longitud, 3 m de anchura y 1.5 m de altura, provisto de un generador de oleaje de tipo pistón. Se ha diseñado una campaña de 15 ensayos, que se obtienen sometiendo a cinco tipos de oleaje tres configuraciones distintas de playa colgada. En los ensayos se ha medido el perfil de playa en distintos instantes hasta llegar al equilibrio, determinando a partir de esos datos el retroceso de la línea de costa y el volumen de sedimentos perdido. El tiempo total efectivo de ensayo asciende a casi 650 horas, y el número de perfiles de evolución de playa obtenidos totaliza 229. En la segunda fase se ha abordado el análisis de los resultados obtenidos con la finalidad de comprender el fenómeno, identificar las variables de las que depende y proponer unas directrices ingenieriles de diseño. Se ha estudiado el efecto de la altura de ola, del periodo del oleaje, del francobordo adimensional y del parámetro de Dean, constatándose la dificultad de comprensión del funcionamiento de estas obras ya que pueden ser beneficiosas, perjudiciales o inocuas según los casos. También se ha estudiado la respuesta del perfil de playa en función de otros monomios adimensionales, tales como el número de Reynolds o el de Froude. En el análisis se ha elegido el monomio “plunger” como el más significativo, encontrando relaciones de éste con el peralte de oleaje, la anchura de coronación adimensional, la altura del pie de playa adimensional y el parámetro de Dean. Finalmente, se propone un método de diseño de cuatro pasos que permite realizar un primer encaje del diseño funcional de la playa sustentada frente a un oleaje de características determinadas. Las contribuciones más significativas desde el punto de vista científico son: - La obtención del juego de resultados experimentales. - La caracterización del comportamiento de las playas sustentadas. - Las relaciones propuestas entre el monomio plunger y las distintas variables explicativas seleccionadas, que permiten predecir el comportamiento de la obra. - El método de diseño propuesto, en cuatro pasos, para este tipo de esquemas de defensa de costas. Perched beaches are an attractive beach nourishment design alternative especially when either the site conditions or the characteristics of both the native and the borrow sand lead to a non-intersecting profile The observation and suggestion of the use of this type of coastal defence scheme dates back to the 1960’s, as well as the international experience in the construction of this type of beaches. However, in spite of its use and the field and laboratory studies performed to-date, no design engineering guidance is available to support its design. This dissertation is based on the experimental work performed on a movable bed physical model and the use of dimensionless parameters in analyzing the results to provide general functional design guidance that allow the designer, at a particular stretch of coast - to estimate the location and geometric characteristics of the submerged sill as well as to estimate the suitable sand size to be used in the nourishment. This dissertation consists on an experimental analysis of perched beaches by means of a submerged sill, leading to the proposal of general design guidance that allows to estimate the location and geometric characteristics of the submerged sill when facing a wave condition and for a given beach material. The experimental work performed on a bi-dimensional movable bed physical model, where five types of wave conditions are combined with three configurations of the submerged sill (“No structure”, low structure or “Structure 1”, and high structure or “Structure 2”) is described, results are presented, and a detailed discussion of the results - from the hydrodynamic point of view – of the implications of the results by using dimensionless parameters is carried out. A detailed state of the art analysis about perched beaches has been performed, presenting the “perched beach concept” and the case studies of different countries. Besides, a careful revision of the literature about experimental studies on perched beaches, theoretical models, and other topics deemed necessary to formulate the methodology of this work has been completed. The study has been divided into two phases. Within the first phase, experiments on a movable-bed physical model have been developed. The physical model has been built in the Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEPYC) facilities, Centro de Estudios y Experimentación de Obras Públicas (CEDEX). The wave flume is 36 m long, 3 m wide and 1.5 m high, and has a piston-type regular wave generator available. The test plan consisted of 15 tests resulting from five wave conditions attacking three different configurations of the perched beach. During the development of the tests, the beach profile has been surveyed at different intervals until equilibrium has been reached according to these measurements. Retreat of the shoreline and relative loss of sediment in volume have been obtained from the measurements. The total effective test time reaches nearly 650 hours, whereas the total number of beach evolution profiles measured amounts to 229. On the second phase, attention is focused on the analysis of results with the aim of understanding the phenomenon, identifying the governing variables and proposing engineering design guidelines. The effect of the wave height, the wave period, the dimensionless freeboard and of the Dean parameter have been analyzed. It has been pointed out the difficulty in understanding the way perched beaches work since they turned out to be beneficial, neutral or harmful according to wave conditions and structure configuration. Besides, the beach profile response as a function of other dimensionless parameters, such as Reynolds number or Froude number, has been studied. In this analysis, the “plunger” parameter has been selected as the most representative, and relationships between the plunger parameter and the wave steepness, the dimensionless crest width, the dimensionless crest height, and the Dean parameter have been identified. Finally, an engineering 4-step design method has been proposed, that allows for the preliminary functional design of the perched beach for a given wave condition. The most relevant contributions from the scientific point of view have been: - The acquisition of a consistent set of experimental results. - The characterization of the behavior of perched beaches. - The proposed relationships between the plunger parameter and the different explanatory variables selected, that allow for the prediction of the beach behavior. - The proposed design method, four-step method, for this type of coastal defense schemes.

The effect of flow speed and food size on the capture efficiency and feeding behaviour of the cold-water coral Lophelia pertusa

Acknowledgements The authors acknowledge L. Wicks and B. de Francisco for helping in coral sampling and coral care in the aquaria facilities at SAMS. Thanks to C. Campbell and the CCAP for kind support and help. Scientific party and crew on board the RVs Calanus and Seol Mara, as well as on board the RRS James Cook during the Changing Oceans cruise (JC_073) are greatly acknowledged. Thanks to colleagues at SAMS for their support during our stay at SAMS. We are in debt with A. Olariaga for his help modifying the cylindrical experimental chambers used in the experiments, and C.C. Suckling for assistance with the flume experiment. Many thanks go to G. Kazadinis for preparing the POM used in the feeding experiments. We also thank two anonymous reviewers and the editor for their constructive comments, which contribute to improve the manuscript. This work has been supported by the European Commission through two ASSEMBLE projects (grant agreement no. 227799) conducted in 2010 and 2011 at SAMS, as well as by the UK Ocean Acidification Research Programme's Benthic Consortium project (awards NE/H01747X/1 and NE/H017305/1) funded by NERC. [SS]