Near-bed hydrodynamics and turbulence below a large-scale plunging breaking wave over a mobile barred bed profile

Funded by The research presented in this paper is part of the SINBAD project. Grant Number: STW (12058) and EPSRC (EP/J00507X/1, EP/J005541/1)

Morfodinâmica do Banco das Três Marias – Barra do Rio Grande

Dados batimétricos detalhados obtidos na antepraia adjacente ao Molhe Oeste conhecida como banco das Três Marias, evidenciaram a presença de uma fossa junto a extremidade do molhe e um banco na forma de domo a SO da depressão. O banco tem sua base e crista respectivamente nas cotas de 8 e 6 m. A feição é aproximadamente oval, com o eixo maior semiparalelo à costa (sentido NNE – SSO) medindo aproximadamente 1600 m. O eixo menor, quase transversal à costa (sentido L-O), apresenta cerca de 1200 m de extensão. O banco representa o resquício do lobo terminal do delta de maré vazante (barra) da laguna formado durante a fixação de sua desembocadura. A fossa junto ao cabeço do molhe apresenta pendente íngreme, que inicia na isóbata de 8 m e alcança a isóbata dos 17 m, sendo provavelmente formada pela ação da corrente longitudinal de SO para NE. Foram coletadas também amostras de sedimento. Estes dados evidenciaram ao menos três subambientes refletindo diferentes níveis de energia. Do mais enérgico para o menos: o banco, onde o sedimento é mais grosso e melhor selecionado, a antepraia, com o sedimento pouco mais fino e a fossa, onde foi amostrada lama, mal selecionada.

Torpedo sinuspersici Olfers, 1831

Electric rays, thought to be the most primitive of the skates and rays, have stout tails but have rather expansive disc. This group is distinguished by the presence of powerful electric organs, derived from branchial muscles in head region. Torpedo sinuspersici found inshore in sandy bottoms, and well offshore from the surf zone down to 200 m. Also on or near coral reefs (like Kish Island in Persian Gulf). Common in shallow sandy areas. Occasionally hooked by anglers, more often seen by divers; can deliver a strong shock. Flesh is edible. T. sinuspersici can survive for hours after being stranded on the beach. Little is known of the life history of the Gulf torpedo. It is a sluggish predator of bony fishes. At night it actively hunts for food, sculling slowly through the water about a meter above the bottom; during the day it usually rests on the bottom and opportunistically ambushes unwary prey. It uses its broad pectoral fins to envelop the target fish before delivering an electric shock to stun it. Usually solitary, they may form groups during the mating season. Reproduction is a placental viviparous, with the developing embryos initially surviving on their yolk sacs, and then on enriched uterine fluid produced by the mother. Litters of 9-22 young are birthed in the summer. Newborns measure about 10 cm wide; males mature at a disc width of 39 cm and females at 45 cm.

Effect of sea water level rise on sandy beach profile

Study of batch profile evolution and scouring effect due to the wave and current impacts in the coastal zone has been one of the most important issues in coastal engineering research projects during the past decades .to construct the coastal protective structures such piers, breakwaters and seawalls, it is necessary to estimate the scouring depth and bed level changes in the vicinity of such structures. Furthermore, the time - dependent changes in the equilibrium profile of the surf zone can be of great importance in designing coastal structures. Because of the importance of coastal engineering study in Iran due to the existence of two important coastal area located in the north and south parts of the country, and due to the lack of classified data in this respect (particularly the effect of sea level rise on coastal morphology) in the present study, based on the available data of Bandar Anzali region, an analysis of the coastal zone behavior is made. Bed level elevations are measured and compared with the theoretical equilibrium profile. It is shown that the behavior of the coastal zone in the region is consistent with the dean (equilibrium profile . In the next stage, following extensive investigations, the bed level changes due to a rise in sea level at different locations in the surf zone are estimated. Finally based on the results obtained for profile evolution due to sea level rise, the conclusion is made for design of coastal structures located in the study area. The results obtained from the present study indicate that the sea level rise can have a significant effect on beach profile and resulting erosion in the study area. The results are graphically presented with can be used for design purposes and establishing a data base for the coastal zone in the study region. It is believed that the present work can be regarded as a contribution to the existing knowledge of coast process in the study area and referred to as a basis for the future coastal research projects.

Changes in phytoplankton composition in response to tides, wind-induced mixing conditions, and freshwater outflows in an urbanised estuarine complex

Estudos recentes na baía de Santos (sudeste do Brasil), localizada em um sistema estuarino altamente urbanizado, mostraram o aumento de espécies fitoplanctônicas potencialmente nocivas. Apesar da importância da previsão das florações algais nocivas, é difícil determinar a estrutura da comunidade fitoplanctônica em ambientes extremamente dinâmicos. O presente estudo analisa florações dominadas pelo microfitoplâncton e sua relação com variáveis físicas e meteorológicas, a fim de determinar padrões associados às marés e às estações do ano. Foram comparadas oito situações e obtidos cinco cenários de dominância relacionados aos ventos, marés e pluviosidade: i) Surfers, diatomáceas associadas à zona de surfe, de alta energia; ii) Sinkers, diatomáceas de tamanho grande que ocorrem nas marés de sizígia, depois de períodos de alta pluviosidade; iii) Opportunistic mixers, diatomáceas pequenas ou alongadas, formadoras de cadeia, que ocorrem durante períodos de quadratura; iv) Local mixers, diatomáceas e dinoflagelados microplanctônicos que foram abundantes em todas as 298 estações amostradas, e v) Mixotrophic dinoflagellates, que ocorrem após intensas descargas estuarinas. Os resultados sugerem uma alteração no padrão temporal de algumas espécies formadoras de florações, enquanto outras apresentaram abundâncias superiores aos valores seguros para a saúde publica. Esta abordagem ilustra também os possíveis impactos de variações na descarga de água doce em estuários altamente eutrofizados.

Observations of turbulence within the surf and swash zone of a field-scale sandy laboratory beach

Current coastal-evolution models generally lack the ability to accurately predict bed level change in shallow (<~2 m) water, which is, at least partly, due to the preclusion of the effect of surface-induced turbulence on sand suspension and transport. As a first step to remedy this situation, we investigated the vertical structure of turbulence in the surf and swash zone using measurements collected under random shoaling and plunging waves on a steep (initially 1:15) field-scale sandy laboratory beach. Seaward of the swash zone, turbulence was measured with a vertical array of three Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs), while in the swash zone two vertically spaced acoustic doppler velocimeter profilers (Vectrino profilers) were applied. The vertical turbulence structure evolves from bottom-dominated to approximately vertically uniform with an increase in the fraction of breaking waves to ~ 50%. In the swash zone, the turbulence is predominantly bottom-induced during the backwash and shows a homogeneous turbulence profile during uprush. We further find that the instantaneous turbulence kinetic energy is phase-coupled with the short-wave orbital motion under the plunging breakers, with higher levels shortly after the reversal from offshore to onshore motion (i.e. wavefront).

Determination of particle concentration in the breathing zone for four different types of office ventilation systems

Many factors affect the airflow patterns, thermal comfort, contaminant removal efficiency and indoor air quality at individual workstations in office buildings. In this study, four ventilation systems were used in a test chamber designed to represent an area of a typical office building floor and reproduce the real characteristics of a modern office space. Measurements of particle concentration and thermal parameters (temperature and velocity) were carried out for each of the following types of ventilation systems: a) conventional air distribution system with ceiling supply and return; b) conventional air distribution system with ceiling supply and return near the floor; c) underfloor air distribution system; and d) split system. The measurements aimed to analyse the particle removal efficiency in the breathing zone and the impact of particle concentration on an individual at the workstation. The efficiency of the ventilation system was analysed by measuring particle size and concentration, ventilation effectiveness and the Indoor/Outdoor ratio. Each ventilation system showed different airflow patterns and the efficiency of each ventilation system in the removal of the particles in the breathing zone showed no correlation with particle size and the various methods of analyses used.

Determining the zone of reflection for posterior corneal surface comparison phakometry

Although comparison phakometry has been used by a number of studies to measure posterior corneal shape, these studies have not calculated the size of the posterior corneal zones of reflection they assessed. This paper develops paraxial equations for calculating posterior corneal zones of reflection, based on standard keratometry equations and equivalent mirror theory. For targets used in previous studies, posterior corneal reflection zone sizes were calculated using paraxial equations and using exact ray tracing, assuming spherical and aspheric corneal surfaces. Paraxial methods and exact ray tracing methods give similar estimates for reflection zone sizes less than 2 mm, but for larger zone sizes ray tracing methods should be used.

Modelling of inflatable rescue boats (IRBs) in surf conditions to reduce injuries

The Inflatable Rescue Boat (IRB) is arguably the most effective rescue tool used by the Australian surf lifesavers. The exceptional features of high mobility and rapid response have enabled it to become an icon on Australia's popular beaches. However, the IRB's extensive use within an environment that is as rugged as it is spectacular, has led it to become a danger to those who risk their lives to save others. Epidemiological research revealed lower limb injuries to be predominant, particularly the right leg. The common types of injuries were fractures and dislocations, as well as muscle or ligament strains and tears. The concern expressed by Surf Life Saving Queensland (SLSQ) and Surf Life Saving Australia (SLSA) led to a biomechanical investigation into this unique and relatively unresearched field. The aim of the research was to identify the causes of injury and propose processes that may reduce the instances and severity of injury to surf lifesavers during IRB operation. Following a review of related research, a design analysis of the craft was undertaken as an introduction to the craft, its design and uses. The mechanical characteristics of the vessel were then evaluated and the accelerations applied to the crew in the IRB were established through field tests. The data were then combined and modelled in the 3-D mathematical modelling and simulation package, MADYMO. A tool was created to compare various scenarios of boat design and methods of operation to determine possible mechanisms to reduce injuries. The results of this study showed that under simulated wave loading the boats flex around a pivot point determined by the position of the hinge in the floorboard. It was also found that the accelerations experienced by the crew exhibited similar characteristics to road vehicle accidents. Staged simulations indicated the attributes of an optimum foam in terms of thickness and density. Likewise, modelling of the boat and crew produced simulations that predicted realistic crew response to tested variables. Unfortunately, the observed lack of adherence to the SLSA footstrap Standard has impeded successful epidemiological and modelling outcomes. If uniformity of boat setup can be assured then epidemiological studies will be able to highlight the influence of implementing changes to the boat design. In conclusion, the research provided a tool to successfully link the epidemiology and injury diagnosis to the mechanical engineering design through the use of biomechanics. This was a novel application of the mathematical modelling software MADYMO. Other craft can also be investigated in this manner to provide solutions to the problem identified and therefore reduce risk of injury for the operators.

Effect of clear zone widths on run-off-road crash outcomes

Current guidelines on clear zone selection and roadside hazard management adopt the US approach based on the likelihood of roadside encroachment by drivers. This approach is based on the available research conducted in the 1960s and 70s. Over time, questions have been raised regarding the robustness and applicability of this research in Australasia in 2010 and in the Safe System context. This paper presents a review of the fundamental research relating to selection of clear zones. Results of extensive rural highway statistical data modelling suggest that a significant proportion of run-off-road to the left casualty crashes occurs in clear zones exceeding 13 m. They also show that the risk of run-off-road to the left casualty crashes was 21% lower where clear zones exceeded 8 m when compared with clear zones in the 4 – 8 m range. The paper discusses a possible approach to selection of clear zones based on managing crash outcomes, rather than on the likelihood of roadside encroachment which is the basis for the current practice. It is expected that this approach would encourage selection of clear zones wider than 8 m when the combination of other road features suggests higher than average casualty crash risk.

Review : Surfers Paradise foreshore redevelopment masterplan - urban plaza zone

The Centre for Subtropical Design has prepared this submission to assist the Gold Coast City Council to finalise a plan and detailed design guidelines for the Urban Plaza Zone of Surfers Paradise Foreshore Redevelopment Masterplan which will create a public open space ‘alive’ with the quality appropriate to a place which is both a local centre and an international destination. This review has been informed by the two over-arching values identified as characteristics of a subtropical place and people’s connection to it:  A sense of openness and permeability, and  Engagement with the natural environment. The existing qualities of the foreshore area proposed as the Urban Plaza Zone, reflect these subtropical place values, and are integral to the Surfers Paradise identity:  Seamless visual and spatial access to the beach and sea,  Permeable interface between beach and built zones provided by beach planting and shade to sand by Pandanus,  A shade zone mediating beach and linear promenade, road and commercial zones, enabling a variety of social and visual experiences, on soft and hard finishes, and  A lively, constantly moving shared road and pedestrian way catering for events and day to day activities with visual access to beach and shaded areas. The Centre for Subtropical Design commends the Gold Coast City Council on preparing a plan for a public open space that is a contemporary departure from the adhoc basis of development that has occurred, in that it will make this area more accessible. However, the proposed plan seems to be working too hard in terms of ‘program’. While providing an identifiable interruption in the linear extent of the Foreshore, the lack of continuity of design in terms of both hardscaping (such as perpendicular paving elements) and softscaping (such as tree selections) may contribute to a lack of definition for the entire Foreshore as a place that mediates, along its length, between sea and land. Providing a hard edge to a beach character of soft and planted transitional elements needs to balance the proposed visual and physical barrier with the need for perceived and actual easy access. The Surfers Paradise identity needs strengthening through attention to planting for shade, materials, particularly selection of paving colours, and stronger delineation of the linear nature of the Foreshore. The Urban Plaza zone is an appropriate interruption to the continuous planting, however the link from the commercial zone overtakes the public and beach zone. A more seamless transition from shop to sea, better integration of the roadway and pedestrian zone and improved physical transition from concrete to sand is recommended. Built form solutions must be robust and designed with the subtropical design principles and the Surfers Paradise identity as underpinning parameters for a lasting and memorable public open space.

Zonal chondrocyte subpopulations reacquire zone-specific characteristics during in Vitro redifferentiation

Background: If chondrocytes from the superficial, middle, and deep zones of articular cartilage could maintain or regain their characteristic properties during in vitro culture, it would be feasible to create constructs comprising these distinctive zones. ----- ----- Hypothesis: Zone-specific characteristics of zonal cell populations will disappear during 2-dimensional expansion but will reappear after 3-dimensional redifferentiation, independent of the culture technique used (alginate beads versus pellet culture).----- ----- Study Design: Controlled laboratory study.----- ----- Methods: Equine articular chondrocytes from the 3 zones were expanded in monolayer culture (8 donors) and subsequently redifferentiated in pellet and alginate bead cultures for up to 4 weeks. Glycosaminoglycans and DNA were quantified, along with immunohistochemical assessment of the expression of various zonal markers, including cartilage oligomeric protein (marking cells from the deeper zones) and clusterin (specifically expressed by superficial chondrocytes).----- ----- Results: Cell yield varied between zones, but proliferation rates did not show significant differences. Expression of all evaluated zonal markers was lost during expansion. Compared to the alginate bead cultures, pellet cultures showed a higher amount of glycosaminoglycans produced per DNA after redifferentiation. In contrast to cells in pellet cultures, cells in alginate beads regained zonal differences, as evidenced by zone-specific reappearance of cartilage oligomeric protein and clusterin, as well as significantly higher glycosaminoglycans production by cells from the deep zone compared to the superficial zone.----- ----- Conclusion: Chondrocytes isolated from the 3 zones of equine cartilage can restore their zone-specific matrix expression when cultured in alginate after in vitro expansion.