Silk purse, sow’s ear : transforming second-Hand clothing into luxury fashion through craft practice

There is more apparel being created than ever before in history. The unsustainable production of materials and the clothing and textile waste that contributes annually to landfill, an estimated 500 000 tonnes of clothing per year in the UK (Gray, 2012) are significant issues inspiring the practice of Australian fashion designers, Carla van Lunn and Carla Binotto. While the contemporary fashion industry is built upon a production and consumption model that is younger than the industrial revolution, the traditions of costume, craft, and bodily adornment are ancient practices. Binotto and van Lunn believe that the potential for sustainable fashion practice lies outside the current industrial manufacturing model. This case study will discuss their fashion label, Maison Briz Vegas, and examine how recycling and traditional craft practices can be used to address the problem of clothing waste and offer an alternative idea of value in fashion and materials, addressing the indicative conference theme, Craft as Sustainability Activism in Practice. “Maison Briz Vegas”, a play on the notion of French luxury and the designers’ new world and sub-tropical home town, Brisbane, is an experimental and craft-based fashion label that uses second-hand cotton T-shirts and wool sweaters as primary materials to create designer fashion. The first collection, titled “The Wasteland”, was conceived and created in Paris in 2011, where designer Carla van Lunn had been living and working for several years. The collection was inspired by the precariousness of the global economy and concerns about climate change. The mountains of discarded clothing found at flea markets provided a textile resource from which van Lunn created a recycled hand-crafted fashion collection with an activist message and was shown to buyers and press during Paris Fashion Week. The label has since become a collaboration with fellow Australian designer Carla Binotto. The craft processes employed in Maison Briz Vegas’ up-cycled fashion collections include original hand block-printing, hand embroidery, quilting and patchwork. Taking an artisanal and slow approach, the designers work to create a hand touched imperfect style in a fashion market flooded with digital printing and fast mass-produced garments. The recycling extends to garment fastenings and embellishments, with discarded jar lids and bottle tops being used as buttons and within embroidery. This process transforms the material and aesthetic value of cheap and generic second-hand clothing and household waste. Maison Briz Vegas demonstrates the potential for craft and design to be an interface for environmental activism within the world of fashion. Presenting garments that are both high-design and thoughtfully recycled in a significant fashion context, such as Paris Fashion Week, Maison Briz Vegas has been able to engage a high-profile luxury fashion audience which has not traditionally considered sustainable or eco practices as relevant or desirable in themselves. The designers are studying how to apply their production model on a greater scale in order to fill commercial orders and reach a wider audience whilst maintaining the element of bespoke, limited edition, and slow hand-craft within their work.

Treatment of silk fibroin with poly(ethylene glycol) for the enhancement of corneal epithelial cell growth

A silk protein, fibroin, was isolated from the cocoons of the domesticated silkworm (Bombyx mori) and cast into membranes to serve as freestanding templates for tissue-engineered corneal cell constructs to be used in ocular surface reconstruction. In this study, we sought to enhance the attachment and proliferation of corneal epithelial cells by increasing the permeability of the fibroin membranes and the topographic roughness of their surface. By mixing the fibroin solution with poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) of molecular weight 300 Da, membranes were produced with increased permeability and with topographic patterns generated on their surface. In order to enhance their mechanical stability, some PEG-treated membranes were also crosslinked with genipin. The resulting membranes were thoroughly characterized and compared to the non-treated membranes. The PEG-treated membranes were similar in tensile strength to the non-treated ones, but their elastic modulus was higher and elongation lower, indicating enhanced rigidity. The crosslinking with genipin did not induce a significant improvement in mechanical properties. In cultures of a human-derived corneal epithelial cell line (HCE-T), the PEG treatment of the substratum did not improve the attachment of cells and it enhanced only slightly the cell proliferation in the longer term. Likewise, primary cultures of human limbal epithelial cells grew equally well on both non-treated and PEG-treated membranes, and the stratification of cultures was consistently improved in the presence of an underlying culture of irradiated 3T3 feeder cells, irrespectively of PEG-treatment. Nevertheless, the cultures grown on the PEG-treated membranes in the presence of feeder cells did display a higher nuclear-to-cytoplasmic ratio suggesting a more proliferative phenotype. We concluded that while the treatment with PEG had a significant effect on some structural properties of the B. mori silk fibroin (BMSF) membranes, there were minimal gains in the performance of these materials as a substratum for corneal epithelial cell growth. The reduced mechanical stability of freestanding PEG-treated membranes makes them a less viable choice than the non-treated membranes.

A Bruch’s membrane substitute fabricated from silk fibroin supports the function of retinal pigment epithelial cells in vitro

Silk fibroin provides a promising biomaterial for ocular tissue reconstruction including the damaged outer blood-retinal barrier of patients afflicted with age-related macular degeneration (AMD). The aim of the present study was to evaluate the function of retinal pigment epithelial (RPE) cells in vitro, when grown on fibroin membranes manufactured to a similar thickness as Bruch’s membrane (3 μm). Confluent cultures of RPE cells (ARPE-19) were established on fibroin membranes and maintained under conditions designed to promote maturation over 4 months. Control cultures were grown on polyester cell culture well inserts (Transwell). Cultures established on either material developed a cobblestoned morphology with partial pigmentation within 12 weeks. Immunocytochemistry at 16 weeks revealed a similar distribution pattern between cultures for F-actin, ZO-1, ezrin, cytokeratin pair 8/18, RPE-65 and Na+/K+-ATPase. Electron microscopy revealed that cultures grown on fibroin displayed a rounder apical surface with a more dense distribution of microvilli. Both cultures avidly ingested fluorescent microspheres coated with vitronectin and bovine serum albumin (BSA), but not controls coated with BSA alone. VEGF and PEDF were detected in the conditioned medium collected from above and below both membrane types. Levels of PEDF were significantly higher than for VEGF on both membranes and a trend was observed towards larger amounts of PEDF in apical compartments. These findings demonstrate that RPE cell functions on fibroin membranes are equivalent to those observed for standard test materials (polyester membranes). As such, these studies support advancement to studies of RPE cell implantation on fibroin membranes in a preclinical model.

Incorporation of human recombinant tropoelastin into silk fibroin membranes with the view to repairing Bruch’s membrane

Bombyx mori silk fibroin membranes provide a potential delivery vehicle for both cells and extracellular matrix (ECM) components into diseased or injured tissues. We have previously demonstrated the feasibility of growing retinal pigment epithelial cells (RPE) on fibroin membranes with the view to repairing the retina of patients afflicted with age-related macular degeneration (AMD). The goal of the present study was to investigate the feasibility of incorporating the ECM component elastin, in the form of human recombinant tropoelastin, into these same membranes. Two basic strategies were explored: (1) membranes prepared from blended solutions of fibroin and tropoelastin; and (2) layered constructs prepared from sequentially cast solutions of fibroin, tropoelastin, and fibroin. Optimal conditions for RPE attachment were achieved using a tropoelastin-fibroin blend ratio of 10 to 90 parts by weight. Retention of tropoelastin within the blend and layered constructs was confirmed by immunolabelling and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). In the layered constructs, the bulk of tropoelastin was apparently absorbed into the initially cast fibroin layer. Blend membranes displayed higher elastic modulus, percentage elongation, and tensile strength (p < 0.01) when compared to the layered constructs. RPE cell response to fibroin membranes was not affected by the presence of tropoelastin. These findings support the potential use of fibroin membranes for the co-delivery of RPE cells and tropoelastin.

Bees at war: Interspecific battles and nest usurpation in stingless bees

We provide the first evidence for interspecific warfare in bees, a spectacular natural phenomenon that involves a series of aerial battles and leads to thousands of fatalities from both attacking and defending colonies. Molecular analysis of fights at a hive of the Australian stingless bee Tetragonula carbonaria revealed that the attack was launched by a related species, Tetragonula hockingsi, which has only recently extended its habitat into southeastern Queensland. Following a succession of attacks by the same T. hockingsi colony over a 4-month period, the defending T. carbonaria colony was defeated and the hive usurped, with the invading colony installing a new queen. We complemented our direct observations with a 5-year study of more than 260 Tetragonula hives and found interspecific hive changes, which were likely to be usurpation events, occurring in 46 hives over this period. We discuss how fighting swarms and hive usurpation fit with theoretical predictions on the evolution of fatal fighting and highlight the many unexplained features of these battles that warrant further study.

The critical role of water in spider silk and its consequence for protein mechanics

Due to its remarkable mechanical and biological properties, there is considerable interest in understanding, and replicating, spider silk's stress-processing mechanisms and structure-function relationships. Here, we investigate the role of water in the nanoscale mechanics of the different regions in the spider silk fibre, and their relative contributions to stress processing. We propose that the inner core region, rich in spidroin II, retains water due to its inherent disorder, thereby providing a mechanism to dissipate energy as it breaks a sacrificial amide-water bond and gains order under strain, forming a stronger amide-amide bond. The spidroin I-rich outer core is more ordered under ambient conditions and is inherently stiffer and stronger, yet does not on its own provide high toughness. The markedly different interactions of the two proteins with water, and their distribution across the fibre, produce a stiffness differential and provide a balance between stiffness, strength and toughness under ambient conditions. Under wet conditions, this balance is destroyed as the stiff outer core material reverts to the behaviour of the inner core.

Photonic crystals: Sustainable sensors from silk

A biocompatible method for fabricating three-dimensional photonic crystals opens up unique opportunities for structurally coloured biodegradable materials, but also for implantable biosensing and targeted therapeutics on the microscale.

With great structure comes great functionality: Understanding and emulating spider silk

The overarching aim of biomimetic approaches to materials synthesis is to mimic simultaneously the structure and function of a natural material, in such a way that these functional properties can be systematically tailored and optimized. In the case of synthetic spider silk fibers, to date functionalities have largely focused on mechanical properties. A rapidly expanding body of literature documents this work, building on the emerging knowledge of structure–function relationships in native spider silks, and the spinning processes used to create them. Here, we describe some of the benchmark achievements reported until now, with a focus on the last five years. Progress in protein synthesis, notably the expression on full-size spidroins, has driven substantial improvements in synthetic spider silk performance. Spinning technology, however, lags behind and is a major limiting factor in biomimetic production. We also discuss applications for synthetic silk that primarily capitalize on its nonmechanical attributes, and that exploit the remarkable range of structures that can be formed from a synthetic silk feedstock.

Structure and ultrastructure of the silk glands and spinneret of Helicoverpa armigera (Hübner) (Lepidoptera: Noctuidae)

This study provides comprehensive documentation of silk production in the pest moth Helicoverpa armigera from gland secretion to extrusion of silk thread. The structure of the silk glands, accessory structures and extrusion apparatus are reported. The general schema of the paired silk glands follows that found for Lepidoptera. Morphology of the duct, silk press, muscle attachments and spigot are presented as a three-dimensional reconstruction and the cuticular crescent-shaped profile of the silk press is demonstrated in both open and closed forms with attendant muscle blocks, allowing advances in our knowledge of how the silk press functions to regulate the extrusion of silk. Growth of the spigot across instars is documented showing a distinctive developmental pattern for this extrusion device. Its shape and structure are related to use and load-bearing activity.

Hidden trails: Visualizing arthropod silk

Arthropods are known to use silk for a number of different purposes including web construction, shelter building, leaf tying, construction of pupal cocoons, and as a safety line when dislodged from a substrate (Alexander, 1961; Fitzgerald, 1983; Common, 1990). Across the arthropods, silk displays a diversity of material properties and chemical constituents and is produced from glands with different evolutionary origins (Craig, 1997). Among insects, larval Lepidoptera are prolific producers of silk. Because many lepidopteran larvae are pests, an ability to interfere with silk production or, at the very least, an understanding of how silk is used, could provide new options for pest control. After testing many known fluorescent dyes, we found that Fluorescent Brightener 28 (also known as Calcofluor White M2R) (Sigma-Aldrich Pty Ltd, Sydney, NSW, Australia), an optical brightener used in the textile industry, binds to arthropod silk in a simple staining reaction, causing it to fluoresce under ultraviolet (UV) light. Such brighteners have also been used in insect gut content analysis (Schlein & Muller, 1995; Hugo et al., 2003). Here we describe the method of visualizing arthropod silk on plant surfaces, using as a model the thin, barely visible, single strands of silk produced by Helicoverpa armigera (Hübner) (Lepidoptera: Noctuidae) neonates.

Behavior of the indian social wasp ropalidia-cyathiformis on a nest of separate combs (hymenoptera, vespidae)

Observations were made on a nest of Ropalidia cyathiformis consisting of three combs. The number of eggs, larvae, pupae and adults were monitored at about 3-day intervals for a 2-month period. The behaviour of the adults was observed with special reference to the proportion of time spent on each of the three combs, the proportion of time spent away from the nest site and the frequencies of dominance interactions and egg laying. The adults moved freely between the three combs suggesting that all of them and all the three combs belonged to one nest. However, most of the adults preferred combs 2 and 3 over comb 1. Of the 10 animals chosen for a detailed analysis of behaviour, seven spent varying periods of time away from the nest site and oRen brought back food or building material. Five of the 10 animals laid at least one egg each but two adults monopolized most of the egg-laying. The animals showed a variety of dominance interactions on the basis of which they have been arranged in a dominance hierarchy. The dominant individuals laid most of the eggs and spent little or no time foraging, while the subordinate individuals spent more time foraging and laid few eggs or none. It is argued that R. cyathiformis is different from R. marginata, the only other Indian social wasp whose behaviour has been studied, in being at a more primitive stage of social organization.

Mechanism of glycine uptake by the silk glands of the silkworm Bombyx mori L

The transport of glycine in vitro into the silk glands of the silkworm has been studied. Glycine accumulates inside the tissue to a concentration higher than that present outside, indicating an active transport mechanism. The kinetics of uptake show a biphasic curve and two apparent Km values for accumulation, 0.33 mM and 5.00 mM. The effect of inhibitors on the energy metabolism of glycine transport is inconclusive. Exchange studies indicate the existence of two pools inside the gland, one that is easily removed by exchange and osmotic shock, and the other which is not. The results obtained conform with the carrier model of Britten and McClure concerning the amino-acid pool in E. coli.

Characterisation of the DNA-polymerase-alpha-primase complex from the silk glands of Bombyx mori

Silk gland cells ofBombyx mori undergo chromosomal endoduplication throughout larval development. The DNA content of both posterior and middle silk gland nuclei increased by 300000 times the haploid genomic content, amounting to 18 rounds of replication. The DNA doubling time is approximately 48 h and 24 h during the fourth and fifth instars of larval development. However, DNA content does not change during the interim moult. Concomitant with DNA content, DNA polymerase activity also increases as development progressed. Enzyme activity is predominantly due to DNA polymerase with no detectable level of polymerase . DNA polymerase from silk gland extracts was purified to homogeneity (using a series of columns involving ionexchange, gel-filtration and affintiy chromatography), resulting in a 4000-fold increase in specific activity. The enzyme is a heterogeneous multimer of high molecular mass, and the catalytic (polymerase) activity is resident in the 180-kDa subunit. The enzyme shows a PI of 6.2 and theKm values for the dNTP vary over 5-16 . The polymerase is tightly associated with primase activity and initiates primer synthesis in the presence of ribonucleoside triphosphates on a single-stranded DNA template. The primase activity is resident in the 45-kDa subunit. The enzyme is devoid of any detectable exonuclease activity. The abundance of DNA polymerase α in silk glands and its strong association with the nuclear matrix suggest a role in the DNA endoduplication process.

Mechanism of glycine uptake by the silk glands of the silkworm Bombyx mori L.

The transport of glycine in vitro into the silk glands of the silkworm has been studied. Glycine accumulates inside the tissue to a concentration higher than that present outside, indicating an active transport mechanism. The kinetics of uptake show a biphasic curve and two apparent Km values for accumulation, 0.33 mM and 5.00 mM. The effect of inhibitors on the energy metabolism of glycine transport is inconclusive. Exchange studies indicate the existence of two pools inside the gland, one that is easily removed by exchange and osmotic shock, and the other which is not. The results obtained conform with the carrier model of Britten and McClure concerning the amino-acid pool in E. coli.