An ocean wave direction gage /

Mode of access: Internet.

Surface waves in the Beaufort Sea

Thesis (Master's)--University of Washington, 2016-06

A New Method for Modeling Free Surface Flows and Fluid-structure Interaction with Ocean Applications

The computational modeling of ocean waves and ocean-faring devices poses numerous challenges. Among these are the need to stably and accurately represent both the fluid-fluid interface between water and air as well as the fluid-structure interfaces arising between solid devices and one or more fluids. As techniques are developed to stably and accurately balance the interactions between fluid and structural solvers at these boundaries, a similarly pressing challenge is the development of algorithms that are massively scalable and capable of performing large-scale three-dimensional simulations on reasonable time scales. This dissertation introduces two separate methods for approaching this problem, with the first focusing on the development of sophisticated fluid-fluid interface representations and the second focusing primarily on scalability and extensibility to higher-order methods.

We begin by introducing the narrow-band gradient-augmented level set method (GALSM) for incompressible multiphase Navier-Stokes flow. This is the first use of the high-order GALSM for a fluid flow application, and its reliability and accuracy in modeling ocean environments is tested extensively. The method demonstrates numerous advantages over the traditional level set method, among these a heightened conservation of fluid volume and the representation of subgrid structures.

Next, we present a finite-volume algorithm for solving the incompressible Euler equations in two and three dimensions in the presence of a flow-driven free surface and a dynamic rigid body. In this development, the chief concerns are efficiency, scalability, and extensibility (to higher-order and truly conservative methods). These priorities informed a number of important choices: The air phase is substituted by a pressure boundary condition in order to greatly reduce the size of the computational domain, a cut-cell finite-volume approach is chosen in order to minimize fluid volume loss and open the door to higher-order methods, and adaptive mesh refinement (AMR) is employed to focus computational effort and make large-scale 3D simulations possible. This algorithm is shown to produce robust and accurate results that are well-suited for the study of ocean waves and the development of wave energy conversion (WEC) devices.

Study and analysis of the waves and currents interaction phenomena

Interaction of ocean waves, currents and sea bed roughness is a complicated phenomena in fluid dynamic. This paper will describe the governing equations of motions of this phenomena in viscous and nonviscous conditions as well as study and analysis the experimental results of sets of physical models on waves, currents and artificial roughness, and consists of three parts: First, by establishing some typical patterns of roughness, the effects of sea bed roughness on a uniform current has been studied, as well as the manning coefficient of each type is reviewed to find the critical situation due to different arrangement. Second, the effect of roughness on wave parameters changes, such as wave height, wave length, and wave dispersion equations have been studied, third, superimposing, the waves + current + roughness patterns established in a flume, equipped with waves + currents generator, in this stage different analysis has been done to find the governing dimensionless numbers, and present the numbers to define the contortions and formulations of this phenomena. First step of the model is verified by the so called Chinese method, and the Second step by the Kamphius (1975), and third step by the van Rijn (1990) , and Brevik and Ass ( 1980), and in all cases reasonable agreements have been obtained. Finally new dimensionless parameters presented for this complicated phenomena.

Airborne remote sensing of ocean wave directional wavenumber spectra in the marginal ice zone

Interactions between surface waves and sea ice are thought to be an important, but poorly understood, physical process in the atmosphere-ice-ocean system. In this work, airborne scanning lidar was used to observe ocean waves propagating into the marginal ice zone (MIZ). These represent the first direct spatial measurements of the surface wave field in the polar MIZ. Data were compared against two attenuation models, one based on viscous dissipation and one based on scattering. Both models were capable of reproducing the measured wave energy. The observed wavenumber dependence of attenuation was found to be consistent with viscous processes, while the spectral spreading of higher wavenumbers suggested a scattering mechanism. Both models reproduced a change in peak direction due to preferential directional filtering. Floe sizes were recorded using co-located visible imagery, and their distribution was found to be consistent with ice breakup by the wave field.

Predicting wave glider speed from environmental measurements

In the ocean science community, researchers have begun employing novel sensor platforms as integral pieces in oceanographic data collection, which have significantly advanced the study and prediction of complex and dynamic ocean phenomena. These innovative tools are able to provide scientists with data at unprecedented spatiotemporal resolutions. This paper focuses on the newly developed Wave Glider platform from Liquid Robotics. This vehicle produces forward motion by harvesting abundant natural energy from ocean waves, and provides a persistent ocean presence for detailed ocean observation. This study is targeted at determining a kinematic model for offline planning that provides an accurate estimation of the vehicle speed for a desired heading and set of environmental parameters. Given the significant wave height, ocean surface and subsurface currents, wind speed and direction, we present the formulation of a system identification to provide the vehicle’s speed over a range of possible directions.

On the charging state of atmospheric aerosols and ion-induced nucleation

Floating in the air that surrounds us is a number of small particles, invisible to the human eye. The mixture of air and particles, liquid or solid, is called an aerosol. Aerosols have significant effects on air quality, visibility and health, and on the Earth's climate. Their effect on the Earth's climate is the least understood of climatically relevant effects. They can scatter the incoming radiation from the Sun, or they can act as seeds onto which cloud droplets are formed. Aerosol particles are created directly, by human activity or natural reasons such as breaking ocean waves or sandstorms. They can also be created indirectly as vapors or very small particles are emitted into the atmosphere and they combine to form small particles that later grow to reach climatically or health relevant sizes. The mechanisms through which those particles are formed is still under scientific discussion, even though this knowledge is crucial to make air quality or climate predictions, or to understand how aerosols will influence and will be influenced by the climate's feedback loops. One of the proposed mechanisms responsible for new particle formation is ion-induced nucleation. This mechanism is based on the idea that newly formed particles were ultimately formed around an electric charge. The amount of available charges in the atmosphere varies depending on radon concentrations in the soil and in the air, as well as incoming ionizing radiation from outer space. In this thesis, ion-induced nucleation is investigated through long-term measurements in two different environments: in the background site of Hyytiälä and in the urban site that is Helsinki. The main conclusion of this thesis is that ion-induced nucleation generally plays a minor role in new particle formation. The fraction of particles formed varies from day to day and from place to place. The relative importance of ion-induced nucleation, i.e. the fraction of particles formed through ion-induced nucleation, is bigger in cleaner areas where the absolute number of particles formed is smaller. Moreover, ion-induced nucleation contributes to a bigger fraction of particles on warmer days, when the sulfuric acid and water vapor saturation ratios are lower. This analysis will help to understand the feedbacks associated with climate change.

Comparison of the Dynamic Response of a Saturated Soil Between Two Models

By comparing the dynamic responses of saturated soil to Biot's and Yamamoto's models, the properties of the two models have be pointed out. First of all, an analysis has been made for energy loss of each model from the basic equations. Then the damping of elastic waves in coarse sand and fine sand with loading frequency and soil's parameters have been calculated and the representation of viscous friction and Coulomb friction in the two models has been concluded. Finally, the variations of loading wave damping and stress phase angles with water depth and soil's parameters have been obtained as loading waves range in ocean waves.

Joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the joint distribution depends on five parameters. These five parameters can all be determined by the water depth, the relative position of two points and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, for fully developed wind-generated sea, the parameters that appeared in the joint distribution are calculated for various wind speeds, water depths and relative positions of two points by using the Donelan and Pierson spectrum and the nonlinear effects of sea waves on the joint distribution are studied. (C) 2003 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Outer wave number spectrum and statistical distribution of apparent wave number vector

Based on the ray theory and Longuet-Higgins's linear,model of sea waves, the joint distribution of wave envelope and apparent wave number vector is established. From the joint distribution, we define a new concept, namely the outer wave number spectrum, to describe the outer characteristics of ocean waves. The analytical form of the outer wave number spectrum, the probability distributions of the apparent wave number vector and its components are then derived. The outer wave number spectrum is compared with the inner wave number spectrum for the average status of wind-wave development corresponding to a peakness factor P = 3. Discussions on the similarity and difference between the outer wave number spectrum and inner one are also presented in the paper. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Probability distribution of random wave-current forces

Based on the second-order solutions obtained for the three-dimensional weakly nonlinear random waves propagating over a steady uniform current in finite water depth, the joint statistical distribution of the velocity and acceleration of the fluid particle in the current direction is derived using the characteristic function expansion method. From the joint distribution and the Morison equation, the theoretical distributions of drag forces, inertia forces and total random forces caused by waves propagating over a steady uniform current are determined. The distribution of inertia forces is Gaussian as that derived using the linear wave model, whereas the distributions of drag forces and total random forces deviate slightly from those derived utilizing the linear wave model. The distributions presented can be determined by the wave number spectrum of ocean waves, current speed and the second order wave-wave and wave-current interactions. As an illustrative example, for fully developed deep ocean waves, the parameters appeared in the distributions near still water level are calculated for various wind speeds and current speeds by using Donelan-Pierson-Banner spectrum and the effects of the current and the nonlinearity of ocean waves on the distribution are studied. (c) 2006 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Characteristics of the wave energy resource at the Atlantic marine energy test site

The wave energy industry is progressing towards an advanced stage of development, with consideration being given to the selection of suitable sites for the first commercial installations. An informed, and accurate, characterisation of the wave energy resource is an essential aspect of this process. Ireland is exposed to an energetic wave climate, however many features of this resource are not well understood. This thesis assesses and characterises the wave energy resource that has been measured and modelled at the Atlantic Marine Energy Test Site, a facility for conducting sea trials of floating wave energy converters that is being developed near Belmullet, on the west coast of Ireland. This characterisation process is undertaken through the analysis of metocean datasets that have previously been unavailable for exposed Irish sites. A number of commonly made assumptions in the calculation of wave power are contested, and the uncertainties resulting from their application are demonstrated. The relationship between commonly used wave period parameters is studied, and its importance in the calculation of wave power quantified, while it is also shown that a disconnect exists between the sea states which occur most frequently at the site and those that contribute most to the incident wave energy. Additionally, observations of the extreme wave conditions that have occurred at the site and estimates of future storms that devices will need to withstand are presented. The implications of these results for the design and operation of wave energy converters are discussed. The foremost contribution of this thesis is the development of an enhanced understanding of the fundamental nature of the wave energy resource at the Atlantic Marine Energy Test Site. The results presented here also have a wider relevance, and can be considered typical of other, similarly exposed, locations on Ireland’s west coast.

Numerical Study of Wave Slamming on an Oscillating Flap

Bottom hinged Oscillating Wave Surge Converters (OWSCs) are efficient devices for extracting power from ocean waves. There is limited knowledge about wave slamming on such devices. This paper deals with numerical studies of wave slamming on an oscillating flap to investigate the mechanism of slamming events. In our model, the Navier–Stokes equations are discretized using the Finite Volume method with the Volume of Fluid (VOF) approach for interface capturing. Waves are generated by a flaptype wave maker in the numerical wave tank, and the dynamic mesh method is applied to model the motion of the oscillating flap. Basic mesh and time step refinement studies are performed. The flow characteristics in a slamming event are analysed based on numerical results. Various simulations with different flap densities, water depths and wave amplitudes are performed for a better understanding of the slamming.

How does Oyster work? The simple interpretation of Oyster mathematics

Oyster® is a surface-piercing flap-type device designed to harvest wave energy in the nearshore environment. Established mathematical theories of wave energy conversion, such as 3D point-absorber and 2D terminator theory, are inadequate to accurately describe the behaviour of Oyster, historically resulting in distorted conclusions regarding the potential of such a concept to harness the power of ocean waves. Accurately reproducing the dynamics of Oyster requires the introduction of a new reference mathematical model, the “flap-type absorber”. A flap-type absorber is a large thin device which extracts energy by pitching about a horizontal axis parallel to the ocean bottom. This paper unravels the mathematics of Oyster as a flap-type absorber. The main goals of this work are to provide a simple–yet accurate–physical interpretation of the laws governing the mechanism of wave power absorption by Oyster and to emphasise why some other, more established, mathematical theories cannot be expected to accurately describe its behaviour.