Characterization of protein hydrolysates of cosmetic use by CE-MS

Protein hydrolysates have been used as active principles in cosmetic products conferring different properties to the final formulations, which are mostly controlled by the peptide size and its amino acid sequence. In this work, capillary electrophoresis coupled to mass spectrometry analyses were carried out in order to investigate such characteristics of protein hydrolysates. Samples of different origins (milk, soy and rice) were obtained from a local company, and were analyzed without a previous preparation step. The background electrolyte (BGE) and sheath liquid compositions were optimized for each sample. The best BGE composition (860 mmol/L formic acid - pH 1.8 - in 70: 30 v/v water/methanol hydro-organic solvent) was chosen based on the overall peak resolution whereas the best sheath liquid was selected based on increased sensitivity and presented different compositions to each sample (10.9-217 mmol/L formic acid in 75: 25-25: 75 v/v water/methanol hydro-organic solvent). Most of the putative peptides in the hydrolysate samples under investigation presented molecular masses of 1000 Da or less. De novo sequencing was carried out for some of the analytes, revealing the hydrophobicity/polarity of the peptides. Hence, the technique has proved to be an advantageous tool for the quality control of industrial protein hydrolysates.

The internationalization of the cosmetic retail industry: a history of success?

O setor de varejo foi cada vez mais global ao longo das últimas décadas, ilustrando visualmente a globalização dos negócios. Muitos varejistas estão apostando em expandir, as atividades ao nível internacional, a fim de evitar a saturação da atividade no país de origem deles (Alexander, 1990), de aumentar os lucros ou de imitar os concorrentes (Williams, 1992). Portanto, eles tornaram-se competidores globais consideráveis: eles fornecem novos produtos no mercado, além de ser mais influentes na cadeia de abastecimento global (Williams, 1992). Em relação à internacionalização do varejo, a indústria cosmética oferece com exemplos de muitas realizações bem- sucedidas. O objetivo deste trabalho é analisar o processo de internacionalização de vários varejistas globais, especializados na venda de produtos cosméticos. Mesmo que o campo de internacionalização no varejo já foi no passado o objeto de vários estudos, este trabalho visa a compreender, por meio da utilização de um estudo de caso múltiplo, a estratégia de retalhistas cosméticos que entram nos mercados internacionais. Por meio de um estudo qualitativo, a questão principal que orienta este trabalho será a de compreender se o varejo de cosméticos segue as mesmas estratégias de negócio e estratégias de marketing para se tornar global. O estudo de casos múltiplos foi escolhido a fim de comparar quatro empresas, especializadas na venda de produtos de cosmética, com atividades no exterior. Os resultados claramente exibem diferenças entre os processos de internacionalização, baseado especialmente na nacionalidade das empresas sob analise.

Oral foreign body granuloma: unusual presentation of a rare adverse reaction to permanent injectable cosmetic filler

COSTA MIGUEL, M. C.; NONAKA, C. F. W.; GERMANO, A. R.; SOUZA, L. B.; SOUZA, L. B. Oral foreign body granuloma: unusual presentation of a rare adverse reaction to permanent injectable cosmetic filler. International journal of oral and maxillofacial surgery, v. 38, p. 385-387, 2009.

Recovering the function and esthetics of fractured teeth using several restorative cosmetic approaches. Three clinical cases

The teeth most commonly affected by trauma are the maxillary central incisors. The most frequent types of traumatic dental injuries to permanent teeth are enamel fractures, enamel and dentine fractures, and enamel and dentine fractures with pulp involvement. This article describes three clinical cases with different levels of traumatized maxillary incisors and several cosmetic approaches for recovery of the esthetics and the masticatory function, as well as the social/psychological aspects of treatment. All cases involved young adult men. The three clinical cases involve dentin and enamel fractures, dentin and enamel fractures with pulp exposure, and dentin and enamel fractures with pulp exposure associated with root fracture. The cosmetic treatments used to resolve fractures were direct composite resin by layering technique, indirect all-ceramic restorations (laminate veneer and ceramic crowns over the teeth), and immediate implant after extraction followed by immediate loading (ceramic abutments with ceramic crown over implant). In all three cases, excellent functional and esthetic results were achieved by use of these treatment modalities. The patients were very satisfied with the results.

The use of the challenge test to analyse preservative efficiency in non-sterile cosmetic and health products: applications and critical points

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

Flow injection amperometric determination of persulfate in cosmetic products using a Prussian Blue film-modified electrode

A flow-injection system with a glassy carbon disk electrode modified with Prussian Blue film is proposed for the determination of persulfate in commercial samples of hair bleaching boosters by amperometry. The detection was obtained by chronoamperometric technique and the sample is injected into the electrochemical cell in a wall jet configuration. Potassium chloride at concentration of 0.1 mol L-1 acted as sample carrier at a flow rate of 4.0 mL min-1 and supporting-electrolyte. For 0.025 V (vs. Ag/AgCl) applied voltage, the proposed system handles ca. 160 samples per hour (1.0 10-4 - 1.0 10-3 mol L-1 of persulfate), consuming about 200 μL sample and 11 mg KCl per determination. Typical linear correlations between electrocatalytic current and persulfate concentration was ca. 0.9998. The detection limit is 9.0 10-5 mol L-1 and the calculated amperometric sensibility 3.6 103 μA L mol -1. Relative standard deviation (n =12) of a 1.0 10-4 mol L-1 sample is about 2.2%. The method was applied to persulfate determination in commercial hair-bleaching samples and results are in agreement with those obtained by titrimetry at 95% confidence level and good recoveries (95 - 112%) of spiked samples were found. © 2003 by MDPI.

Oral granuloma formation after injection of cosmetic filler

The increased use of orofacial fillers in cosmetic procedures has led to new diagnostic challenges for dentists and oral pathologists. Here, we describe a case with multiple oral foreign body granulomas, which were formed after a polymethylmetacrylate injection for cosmetic purposes. © 2011 European Association for Cranio-Maxillo-Facial Surgery.

Undesirable effect of cosmetic lip augmentation with autologous fat tissue

Background: Facial cosmetic procedures are commonplace nowadays, especially techniques that aim to increase lip volume. Full lips provide a youthful, healthy, feminine and sensual appearance. There are many techniques and materials used to recover the loss of contour that occurs with age. Case presentation. An unusual case of fat tissue accumulation following cosmetic upper lip augmentation in a 61 year-old female was reported. Surgical treatment was performed for esthetic concerns. Microscopically, the tissue removed was composed of muscle fibers and mature adipocytes. Conclusion: Undesirable effects of esthetic treatment can occur and the clinician should be familiar with such complications to diagnose and manage them. © 2013 Kaminagakura et al.; licensee BioMed Central Ltd.

Standardized plant extract, method for preparing an extract from plants of the Sclerolobium Genus, cosmetic composition, pharmaceutical composition and use of said extract

Extracts of plants of the Sclerolobium genus are disclosed, as well as methods for preparing same and cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations containing these extracts. These extracts can be obtained by polar and/or apolar extraction, each fraction containing different anti-oxidants, all of which are useful for topical treatment. Also disclosed is the use of this extract in cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations for topical use.

Use of HEPG2 cells to assay the safety of cosmetic active substances

The importance of this study is based on the need to obtain simple and efficient in vitro models to predict the in vivo toxicity of cosmetics, aiming not to use animals as experimental model. Here, we proposed the use of HepG2 cells, which are widely applied to simulate the hepatic function of the human organism in vitro. This cell line was chose since recent studies have shown that the liver is potentially the most frequently targeted organ by cosmetic ingredients, and beyond that, considering the widely application of in vitro assays to test the cutaneous permeation of cosmetic products, including the assays applying modified Franz cells, this technique becomes indispensable. Three different cosmetic active substances were used, and the toxicity to HepG2 cells was assessed by the MTT method. The treatment with hyaluronic acid showed no toxicity to HepG2 cells. Treating the cells with P. guajava L. extract were verified that increasing the amount of the extract in the media, the cellular viability decreased, and finally, the treatment of alpha-lipoic acid showed a cytoprotective effect in relation to the treatment with propylene glycol. The study demonstrated the suitability in using HepG2 cells to assess the safety of cosmetic active substances, helping in the prediction of if the substance could be hepatotoxic if could reach the bloodstream

The cosmetic dye quinoline yellow causes DNA damage in vitro

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Efficacy of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Dispersion of Liposome with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Alpha-Lipoic Acid and Kinetin

The present study aimed to evaluate the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing a dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) and kinetin, as well as their effects on the hydration and viscoelastic skin properties. The photoprotection was determined in vitro (antioxidant activity) and in vivo on UV-irradiated hairless mouse skin. The hydration effects were performed with the application of the formulations under study on the forearm of human volunteers and skin conditions were analyzed before and after a single application and daily applications during 4 weeks in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture and viscoelastic properties. The raw material under study possessed free-radical scavenging activity and the formulation with it protected hairless mouse skin barrier function against UV damage. After 4 weeks of application on human skin, the formulation under study enhanced stratum corneum skin moisture and also showed hydration effects in deeper layers of the skin. Thus, it can be concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing a dispersion of liposome with MAP, ALA and kinetin under study showed photoprotective effects in skin barrier function as well as pronounced hydration effects on human skin, which suggests that this dispersion has potential antiaging effects.

The Use of Nanotechnology in Cosmetic Formulations: The Influence of Vehicle in the Vitamin A Skin Penetration

Despite the efficacy of topical retinoic acid, skin reactions have limited its acceptance by patients. Other retinoids, like Retinyl Palmitate (RP), are considerably less irritating, but they are also less effective. In order to enhance the performance of retinoids, in this work RP has been added to cosmetic formulations such as nanoemulsions, which can provide better penetration of this active substance. Because the vehicle can directly influence the skin penetration and the effectiveness of RP, two skin care products containing 5000 UI RP have been developed and investigated, namely a nanoemulsifying system and a classic gel cream. In vitro penetration tests were conducted by using Franz diffusion cells and placing porcine ear skin and iso-propanol in the receptor compartment. The RP concentration in the skin layers was analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography, and a Zeta-Sizer system was employed for measurement of the the particle size distribution. The penetration tests revealed a large difference between the vehicles in terms of the RP concentrations in each skin layer. The classic gel cream furnished better RP penetration in both the stratum corneum and the epidermis without stratum corneum + dermis, as compared to the self-nanoemulsifying system. The two vehicles displayed the same particle size (between 100 and 200 nm). Better understanding of RP skin delivery using different vehicles has been acquired, and the importance of evaluating the efficacy of nanocosmetics. Results from the present study should also contribute to the assessment of commercial self-nanoemulsifying systems with potential application in the facile production of nanoemulsions.

Evaluation of sun protection factor of cosmetic formulations by a simple visual in vitro method mimicking the in vivo method

A new concept for in vitro visual evaluation of sun protection factor (SPF) of cosmetic formulations based on a supramolecular ultraviolet (UV) dosimeter was clearly demonstrated. The method closely parallels the method validated for in vivo evaluation and relies on the determination of the slightest perceptible bleaching of an iron-complex dye/nanocrystallinetitanium dioxide interface (UV dosimeter) in combination with an artificial skin substrate simulating the actual human skin in the presence and absence of a cosmetic formulation. The successful evaluation of SPF was ensured by the similarity of the erythema response of our dosimeter and human skin to UV light irradiation. A good linear correlation of in vitro and in vivo data up to SPF 40 confirmed the effectiveness of such a simple, cheap, and fast method. In short, here we unravel a convenient and accessible visual FPS evaluation method that can help improving the control on cosmetic products contributing to the reduction of skin cancer, one of the critical public health issues nowadays. (C) 2011 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. and the American Pharmacists Association J Pharm Sci 101:726732, 2012

Benefits of Combinations of Vitamin A, C and E Derivatives in the Stability of Cosmetic Formulations

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins. Chemical stability was determined by HPLC on a Shimadzu system with UV detection. Results showed that formulations had pseudoplastic behavior and that vitamins did not alter their apparent viscosity and thixotropy. In the chemical stability studies, first-order reaction equations were used for determinations of the shelf-life of vitamins derivatives considering a remaining concentration of 85%. Combined vitamins in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation rate as compared to different preparations containing only one of the vitamins. Considering that many cosmetic formulations contain vitamin combinations it is suggested that the present study may contribute to the development of more stable formulations containing liposoluble vitamins.