A indústria de confecção do vestuário na região metropolitana de Belém-PA

Partindo do instrumental teórico neo-schumpeteriano e institucionalista, a presente pesquisa faz uma análise sobre a expansão do arranjo produtivo da indústria de confecção e da moda na Região Metropolitana de Belém (RMB) Pará, e do tecido institucional, de 1991 a 2008. Os objetivos da pesquisa são analisar o processo de formação e desenvolvimento do arranjo produtivo local, identificar a configuração e as características da estrutura produtiva e das atividades institucionais de apoio e as relações de sinergia entre agentes, analisar como estão constituídas as formas de governança e externalidades existentes e como essas podem dinamizar o processo de desenvolvimento desse arranjo produtivo. A proposta deste trabalho pretende responder a três questões: Por que o segmento da indústria do vestuário não se desenvolveu na RMB? Como a dinâmica do setor e das características dos fenômenos da inovação tecnológica no ramo é vivenciada pelos empresários das pequenas e médias empresas do setor de confecção na RMB? Como ocorre a coexistência de dois processos, a modernização e a precarização no setor de confecção na RMB? A pesquisa empírica realizada representa 55% do emprego formal na RMB. Nesse processo, observou-se a inexistência da ação institucional anterior ao período pesquisado e isso limitou a evolução científica e tecnológica do setor, assim como o desenvolvimento da cadeia produtiva. Essa condição levou os produtores atomizados a baixos níveis de sinergia e representatividade. Em função disso, as taxas de crescimento na indústria foram muito baixas, a dificuldade de se encontrar mão-de-obra qualificada é apontada como maior entrave ao desenvolvimento da indústria. A maioria das empresas instaladas é produtora de uniformes, mas constatou-se nos três últimos anos a abertura de empresas dedicadas à fabricação de produtos de moda. Apesar da dificuldade encontrada pelas indústrias em funcionamento, observou-se um movimento social na construção e ampliação do conhecimento técnico e da promoção de um arranjo produtivo impulsionado pela vontade de fazer moda, a atuação de designers e instituições promovem o desejo de transformar a moda em coisa nossa. O desenvolvimento da moda no Pará, como movimento espontâneo e meio de expressão da cultura local, representa, de certa forma, a vontade de inserir a cultura local no contexto do consumo contemporâneo. A moda é uma forma de estabelecimento de relação com o lugar que considera a ação na construção de uma mitologia local. A questão da especificidade do local é de grande importância para os mercados, portanto, deve-se levar em conta a importância e a potencialidade de um mercado povoado por um grande número de consumidores ávidos por inserção e diferenciação, emocionalmente atrelados ao local. Os atores pesquisados apontam que, para estimular o desenvolvimento da cadeia produtiva têxtil-vestuário, seriam necessários mais investimentos na formação de mão-de-obra que favoreça o desenvolvimento das atividades já em funcionamento, e que permitam ampliar a viabilidade de investimentos em um setor de fundamental importância na história da industrialização e na vida cotidiana dos seres humanos, no mundo capitalista contemporâneo que tem o consumo como mito fundamental. Esta pesquisa contribui para um melhor entendimento do setor.

Mulheres que tecem a vida: trabalho e gênero em tempos precarizados

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Cultura empresarial e reestruturação produtiva na indústria brasileira: o caso da Lupo S/A

Founded in 1921, the company currently known as Lupo S/A is one of the most ancient textile and clothing industries in Brazil. In this article we aim to describe the general lines of the trajectory of this family company, currently producing socks, nightwear and sports articles. The focus of this paper is on the analysis of some strategies used by the company along its formation and development process, and, particularly, the way these strategies made possible the productive restructuring associated to the overcoming of the strong crisis which began in the end of the 80's and early 90's, contributing to its recent consolidation in the clothing industry. The leading hypothesis of the study is that pioneering connected to a strong organizational culture that has been formed and constructed since its foundation and that was reestablished in a more recent management were the factors which were responsible for the advances able to generate an innovation environment in products as well as in processes and management. The theoretical reflection selected to subsidize the cognitive construction of the study of the company is based on the historical approach of the development of the textile industry in Brazil and in studies about the importance of the action of the entrepreneur, in the role of the organizational culture and of innovation to choose strategies in companies. The research involved the analysis of documents and data of the company, as well as interviews with directors and employees. The results show a traditional company model, but also show the presence of a very advanced entrepreneurial dynamic. Modern world – known as a fordist industrial model – could already be noticed in the company when this production pattern was not clearly defined yet in the Brazilian industry. Nowadays, the company faces the challenge of globalization and the open competition in the international market which brings the rivalry of the greatest and best globalized companies.

A distribuição espacial da indústria do vestuário no Brasil

This paper aims to analyse the spatial distribution of the Brazilian clothing industry in 1997 and 2006. In order to achieve this objective, this study used an exploratory spatial data analysis - ESDA. It was made a univariate analysis of the number of the existing clothing industries among Brazilian states. The null hypotheses of the spatial dependence absence was rejected and the construction of cluster maps showed two patterns: a high industrial concentration and a low one. On the other hand, a bivariate analysis was also conducted to permit a study between the number of clothing industries and the wage income of the neighbor regions. The result revealed spatial dependence besides similar cluster maps in both years. Therefore, two spatial patterns emerged: a high and a low industrial concentration. The final conclusion is that agglomeration economies are the main responsible for the results found in both analyses.

O CAD 3D aplicado na validação de protótipos na indústria do vestuário

Pós-graduação em Design - FAAC

1992 census of manufactures. industries 2311, 2321, 2322, 2323, 2325, 2326, and 2329.

Mode of access: Internet.

1992 census of manufactures. industries 2341, 2342, 2353, 2361, and 2369.

Mode of access: Internet.

1987 census of manufactures.

Mode of access: Internet.

1987 census of manufactures.

Mode of access: Internet.

Educational pamphlet series.

[1] The rise of the clothing workers ... [2] Problems of labor organizations ... [3] Recent developments in trade unionism ... [5] A proposal for an unemployment fund in th4e men's clothing industry ... [8] The message of internationalism ... [19] Union rules of order.

Análise das LER/DORT notificadas no Rio Grande do Norte de 2010 a 2014

The increasing prevalence of Repetitive Strain Injury / Work-Related Musculoskeletal Disorders (RSI / MSDs) has been explained by changes in the work that has been characterized by setting goals and productivity. This fact does not take into account the psycho-physiological characteristics of workers who become ill as a result of professional activities engaged in and also the adverse conditions in which his work was done. This study aimed to analyze the RSI / MSDs reported in the state of Rio Grande do Norte, Brazil, 2010-2014 compared to the profile of the population, epidemiological aspects and features of these diseases. It is a descriptive epidemiological cross-sectional study using secondary data obtained in the Notifiable Diseases Information System (SINAN) in May 2015 was used as the area covered by the Rio Grande do Norte. Data were collected regarding the grievances of work-related RSI / MSDs, assigned by the Worker's Health Reference Center (CEREST) of the State Health Department. Data were processed with the help of Microsoft Excel® 2013 and presented in tables in absolute frequency (n) and relative frequency (%). The results showed a total of 403 notifications of RSI / MSDs, where the vast majority 72% (290) was recorded in Natal. Regarding the profile of notified employees, 88.59% (357) have aged between 25 and 54 years, 62.78% (253) were female, and in relation to education, 31.51% (127) had high school complete. The most affected occupations were seamstresses (the clothing industry) with 24.97% (97), followed by masons, construction with 3.23% (13) and cashiers with 2.99% (12). About the work situation, 75.93% (306) had a formal contract, however, were sent to Communications Occupational accidents (CAT) only 67% (270) of the cases. Regarding the signs and symptoms, pain and limitation of movement were the most mentioned respectively with 98.01% (395) and 95.04% (383) of notifications. Notifications, 94.29% (380) showed exposure to repetitive movements in their workplace. The most frequent specific diagnoses were synovitis and tenosynovitis (CID F 65), with 30.02% (121) of notifications, followed by back pain (CID F 54) to 19.35% (78) and shoulder injuries (ICD M 75) with 15.88% (64). They were away from work 81.64% (329) of workers reported with RSI / MSDs. Evolution more prevalent among cases was temporary disability with 75.68% (305). It was concluded that the SINAN is a database of potential to characterize the profile of RSI / MSDs, requiring, however, an improvement in the coverage of records and data quality. In addition, this study reflects the need to implement protection strategies to workers by companies, signaling promotion, prevention and rehabilitation aimed at reducing these injuries and the improvement of occupational health indicators in Rio Grande do Norte.

Women in the Global Clothing and Textile Industry

This paper examines the current role of women in the clothing and textile industry through oral history of South African union members. I argue that the industry’s particularly exploitative environment is directly related to both gender and globalization, acting together to worsen conditions in factories. Additionally, I argue that the more recent addition of an increasingly consumer-driven industry structure also impacts its abusive environment. Unionization, along with public and private regulation, have the potential to be catalysts for change in the industry. To be most effective, these organizations need to take into account both gender and globalization, and recognize the equal impacts both have when making decisions.

Regulating for corporate human rights abuses : the emergence of corporate reporting on the ILO’s human rights standards within the global garment manufacturing and retail industry

Despite the ubiquitous nature of the discourse on human rights there is currently little research on the emergence of disclosure by multinational corporations on their human rights obligations or the regulatory dynamic that may lie behind this trend. In an attempt to begin to explore the extent to which, if any, the language of human rights has entered the discourse of corporate accountability, this paper investigates the adoption of the International Labour Organisation's (ILO) human rights standards by major multinational garment retail companies that source products from developing countries, as disclosed through their reporting media. The paper has three objectives. Firstly, to empirically explore the extent to which a group of multinational garment retailers invoke the language of human rights when disclosing their corporate responsibilities. The paper reviews corporate reporting media including social responsibility codes of conduct, annual reports and stand-alone social responsibility reports released by 18 major global clothing and retail companies during a period from 1990 to 2007. We find that the number of companies adopting and disclosing on the ILO's workplace human rights standards has significantly increased since 1998 – the year in which the ILO's standards were endorsed and accepted by the global community (ILO, 1998). Secondly, drawing on a combination of Responsive Regulation theory and neo-institutional theory, we tentatively seek to understand the regulatory space that may have influenced these large corporations to adopt the language of human rights obligations. In particular, we study the role that International Governmental Organisation's (IGO) such as ILO may have played in these disclosures. Finally, we provide some critical reflections on the power and potential within the corporate adoption of the language of human rights.

Media pressures and corporate disclosure of social responsibility performance information : a study of two global clothing and sports retail companies

This paper investigates the social and environmental disclosure practices of two large multinational companies, specifically Nike and Hennes&Mauritz. Utilising a joint consideration of legitimacy theory and media agenda setting theory, we investigate the linkage between negative media attention, and positive corporate social and environmental disclosures. Our results generally support a view that for those industry‐related social and environmental issues attracting the greatest amount of negative media attention, these corporations react by providing positive social and environmental disclosures. The results were particularly significant in relation to labour practices in developing countries – the issue attracting the greatest amount of negative media attention for the companies in question.