Two fluid numerical model for coastal applications

Wave breaking is an important coastal process, influencing hydro-morphodynamic processes such as turbulence generation and wave energy dissipation, run-up on the beach and overtopping of coastal defence structures. During breaking, waves are complex mixtures of air and water (“white water”) whose properties affect velocity and pressure fields in the vicinity of the free surface and, depending on the breaker characteristics, different mechanisms for air entrainment are usually observed. Several laboratory experiments have been performed to investigate the role of air bubbles in the wave breaking process (Chanson & Cummings, 1994, among others) and in wave loading on vertical wall (Oumeraci et al., 2001; Peregrine et al., 2006, among others), showing that the air phase is not negligible since the turbulent energy dissipation involves air-water mixture. The recent advancement of numerical models has given valuable insights in the knowledge of wave transformation and interaction with coastal structures. Among these models, some solve the RANS equations coupled with a free-surface tracking algorithm and describe velocity, pressure, turbulence and vorticity fields (Lara et al. 2006 a-b, Clementi et al., 2007). The single-phase numerical model, in which the constitutive equations are solved only for the liquid phase, neglects effects induced by air movement and trapped air bubbles in water. Numerical approximations at the free surface may induce errors in predicting breaking point and wave height and moreover, entrapped air bubbles and water splash in air are not properly represented. The aim of the present thesis is to develop a new two-phase model called COBRAS2 (stands for Cornell Breaking waves And Structures 2 phases), that is the enhancement of the single-phase code COBRAS0, originally developed at Cornell University (Lin & Liu, 1998). In the first part of the work, both fluids are considered as incompressible, while the second part will treat air compressibility modelling. The mathematical formulation and the numerical resolution of the governing equations of COBRAS2 are derived and some model-experiment comparisons are shown. In particular, validation tests are performed in order to prove model stability and accuracy. The simulation of the rising of a large air bubble in an otherwise quiescent water pool reveals the model capability to reproduce the process physics in a realistic way. Analytical solutions for stationary and internal waves are compared with corresponding numerical results, in order to test processes involving wide range of density difference. Waves induced by dam-break in different scenarios (on dry and wet beds, as well as on a ramp) are studied, focusing on the role of air as the medium in which the water wave propagates and on the numerical representation of bubble dynamics. Simulations of solitary and regular waves, characterized by both spilling and plunging breakers, are analyzed with comparisons with experimental data and other numerical model in order to investigate air influence on wave breaking mechanisms and underline model capability and accuracy. Finally, modelling of air compressibility is included in the new developed model and is validated, revealing an accurate reproduction of processes. Some preliminary tests on wave impact on vertical walls are performed: since air flow modelling allows to have a more realistic reproduction of breaking wave propagation, the dependence of wave breaker shapes and aeration characteristics on impact pressure values is studied and, on the basis of a qualitative comparison with experimental observations, the numerical simulations achieve good results.

Transparent boundary conditions for wave propagation on unbounded domains

The numerical solution of the time dependent wave equation in an unbounded domain generally leads to a truncation of this domain, which requires the introduction of an artificial boundary with associated boundary conditions. Such nonreflecting conditions ensure the equivalence between the solution of the original problem in the unbounded region and the solution inside the artificial boundary. We consider the acoustic wave equation and derive exact transparent boundary conditions that are local in time and can be directly used in explicit methods. These conditions annihilate wave harmonics up to a given order on a spherical artificial boundary, and we show how to combine the derived boundary condition with a finite difference method. The analysis is complemented by a numerical example in two spatial dimensions that illustrates the usefulness and accuracy of transparent boundary conditions.

Response of the salt-freshwater interface in a coastal aquifer to a wave-induced groundwater pulse: field observations and modelling

Field observations on an unconfined coastal aquifer showed that a groundwater pulse, generated by it moderate (significant wave height, H-sig similar to 4.5 m) wave/storm event, induced significant oscillations in the salt-freshwater interface of the order of several metres in the horizontal direction. A dynamic sharp-interface model is developed to quantify the mechanism of these interface oscillations. The model uses the 50% seawater salinity contour as the location of the equivalent sharp-interface. The model was calibrated against the observed groundwater table fluctuations. It predicted reasonably well the interface oscillations with a slight over-prediction of the oscillation magnitude and a steepening of the interface. The neglect of mixing in the salt-freshwater mixing zone by the sharp-interface model is suggested as a possible contributor to the discrepancies between the model predictions and observations. In contrast with the significant wave effects, there was no observable response of the interface to diurnal or semidiurnal tides. (C) 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Coral mortality increases wave energy reaching shores protected by reef flats: Examples from the Seychelles

In the granitic Seychelles, many shores and beaches are fringed by coral reef flats which provide protection to shores from erosion by waves. The surfaces of these reef flats support a complex ecology. About 10 years ago their seaward zones were extensively covered by a rich coral growth, which reached approximately to mean low water level, but in 1998 this was largely killed by seawater warming. The resulting large expanses of dead coral skeletons in these locations are now disintegrating, and much of the subsequent modest recovery by new coral recruitment was set back by further mortalities. A mathematical model of wave energy reaching shorelines protected by coral reef flats has been applied to 14 Seychelles reefs. It is derived from equations which predict: (1) the raised water level, or wave set-up, on reef flats resulting from wave breaking, which depends upon offshore wave height and period, depth of still water over the reef flat and the reef crest profile, and (2) the decay of energy from reef edge to shoreline that is affected by width of reef flat, surface roughness, sea level rise and 'pseudo-sea level rise' created by increased depth resulting from disintegration of coral colonies. The model treats each reef as one entity, but because biota and zonation on reef flats are not homogenous, all reefs are divided into four zones. In each, cover by both living and dead biota was estimated for calculation of parameters, and then averaged to obtain input data for the model. All possible biological factors were taken into account, such as the ability of seagrass beds to grow upwards to match expected sea level rise, reduction in height of the reef flat in relation to sea level as zones of dead corals decay, and the observed 'rounding' of reef crests as erosion removes corals from those areas. Estimates were also made of all these factors for a time approximately a decade ago, representing a time before the mass coral mortality, and for approximately a decade in the future when the observed rapid state of dead coral colony disintegration is assumed to have reached an end point. Results of increased energy over the past decade explain observations of erosion in some sites in the Seychelles. Most importantly, it is estimated that the rise in energy reaching shores protected by fringing reefs will now accelerate more rapidly, such that the increase expected over the next decade will be approximately double than that seen over the past decade. (c) 2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Wave-generated flow on coral reefs - an analysis for two-dimensional horizontal reef-tops with steep faces

Waves breaking on the seaward rim of a coral reef generate a flow of water from the exposed side of the reef to the sheltered side and/or to either channels through the reef-rim or lower sections of the latter. This wave-generated flow is driven by the water surface gradient resulting from the wave set-up created by the breaking waves. This paper reviews previous approaches to modelling wave-generated flows across coral reefs and discusses the influence of reef morphology and roughness upon these flows. Laboratory measurements upon a two-dimensional horizontal reef platform with a steep reef face provide the basis for extending a previous theoretical analysis for wave set-up on a reef in the absence of a flow [Gourlay, M.R., 1996b. Wave set-up on coral reefs. 2. Set-up on reefs with various profiles. Coastal Engineering 28, 1755] to include the interaction between a unidirectional flow and the wave set-up. The laboratory model results are then used to demonstrate that there are two basic reef-top flow regimes-reef-top control and reef-rim control. Using open channel flow theory, analytical relationships are derived for the reef-top current velocity in terms of the offreef wave conditions, the reef-top water depth and the physical characteristics of the reef-top topography. The wave set-up and wave-generated flow relationships are found to predict experimental values with reasonable accuracy in most cases. The analytical relationships are used to investigate wave-generated flows into a boat harbour channel on Heron Reef in the southern Great Barrier Reef. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Large scale experiments on gravel and mixed beaches: Experimental procedure, data documentation and initial results

This paper provides information on the experimental set-up, data collection methods and results to date for the project Large scale modelling of coarse grained beaches, undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) of FZK in Hannover by an international group of researchers in Spring 2002. The main objective of the experiments was to provide full scale measurements of cross-shore processes on gravel and mixed beaches for the verification and further development of cross-shore numerical models of gravel and mixed sediment beaches. Identical random and regular wave tests were undertaken for a gravel beach and a mixed sand/gravel beach set up in the flume. Measurements included profile development, water surface elevation along the flume, internal pressures in the swash zone, piezometric head levels within the beach, run-up, flow velocities in the surf-zone and sediment size distributions. The purpose of the paper is to present to the scientific community the experimental procedure, a summary of the data collected, some initial results, as well as a brief outline of the on-going research being carried out with the data by different research groups. The experimental data is available to all the scientific community following submission of a statement of objectives, specification of data requirements and an agreement to abide with the GWK and EU protocols. (C) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

The Role of Corals on Tsunami Dynamics in an Island Setting: A Case Study of Tutuila Island

Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Washington, 2016-07

Impact of a 1755-like tsunami in Huelva, Spain

Coastal areas are highly exposed to natural hazards associated with the sea. In all cases where there is historical evidence for devastating tsunamis, as is the case of the southern coasts of the Iberian Peninsula, there is a need for quantitative hazard tsunami assessment to support spatial planning. Also, local authorities must be able to act towards the population protection in a preemptive way, to inform 'what to do' and 'where to go' and in an alarm, to make people aware of the incoming danger. With this in mind, we investigated the inundation extent, run-up and water depths, of a 1755-like event on the region of Huelva, located on the Spanish southwestern coast, one of the regions that was affected in the past by several high energy events, as proved by historical documents and sedimentological data. Modelling was made with a slightly modified version of the COMCOT (Cornell Multi-grid Coupled Tsunami Model) code. Sensitivity tests were performed for a single source in order to understand the relevance and influence of the source parameters in the inundation extent and the fundamental impact parameters. We show that a 1755-like event will have a dramatic impact in a large area close to Huelva inundating an area between 82 and 92 km(2) and reaching maximum run-up around 5 m. In this sense our results show that small variations on the characteristics of the tsunami source are not too significant for the impact assessment. We show that the maximum flow depth and the maximum run-up increase with the average slip on the source, while the strike of the fault is not a critical factor as Huelva is significantly far away from the potential sources identified up to now. We also show that the maximum flow depth within the inundated area is very dependent on the tidal level, while maximum run-up is less affected, as a consequence of the complex morphology of the area.

Potential inundation of Lisbon downtown by a 1755-like tsunami

In this study, we present 10 m resolution tsunami flooding maps for Lisbon downtown and the Tagus estuary. To compute these maps we use the present bathymetry and topographic maps and a reasonable estimate for the maximum credible tsunami scenario. Tsunami modeling was made with a non-linear shallow water model using four levels of nested grids. The tsunami flood is discussed in terms of flow depth, run-up height and maximum inundation area. The results show that, even today, in spite of the significant morphologic changes in the city river front after the 1755 earthquake, a similar event would cause tsunami flow depths larger than one meter in a large area along the Tagus estuary and Lisbon downtown. Other areas along the estuary with a high population density would also be strongly affected. The impact of the tide on the extent of tsunami inundation is discussed, due to the large amplitude range of the tide in Lisbon, and compared with the historical descriptions of the 1755 event. The results presented here can be used to identify the potential tsunami inundation areas in Lisbon; this identification comprises a key element of the Portuguese tsunami emergency management system.

Caracterització de l'avifauna de la conca del riu Quiroz: identificació de les zones amb potencial aviturístic i d'interès per a la conservació

La conca del riu Quiroz, al nord del Perú, està influenciada per dues zones d’endemisme d’aus i conté quatre àrees importants per a la conservació d’aus. Malgrat això, la informació sobre l’avifauna present a la conca és poc coneguda ja que no s’ha realitzat, fins al moment, cap estudi avifaunístic del global de la conca. En aquest estudi s’han mostrejat nou zones de la conca. A cadascuna s’ha valorat el potencial per al desenvolupament de l’aviturisme i la seva importància per a la conservació de les aus. A més, s’ha calculat un índex que permet valorar l’aviturisme i la conservació conjuntament. Els mostrejos realitzats a la conca demostren la seva riquesa avifaunística doncs, en una superfície mostrejada de 684ha, s’hi han reportat 151 espècies de les quals 34 són endèmiques i 7 estan catalogades com a amenaçades. Al llarg de la conca s’han identificat tres zones amb una importància ornitològica per damunt de la resta. Suyo és la zona de la conca amb un potencial aviturístic més elevat. ChinChin, el lloc amb més importància i possibilitats de dur a terme actuacions encaminades a la conservació. Yanta, destaca en ambdós sentits sent el desenvolupament de l’aviturisme la millor alternativa per garantir la conservació de la zona i, en especial, la seva diversitat avifaunistica.

Northern Ireland AAA Screening Programme: Professional information pack

The Northern Ireland Abdominal Aortic Aneurysm (AAA) Screening Programme began in June 2012 and offers AAA screening to all men in their 65th year in Northern Ireland.The aim of the AAA screening programme is to reduce AAA-related mortality by providing systematic, population-based screening. There is evidence of a significant reduction (45%) in mortality from AAA in those men aged between 65 and 79 years who undergo ultrasound screening. Men older than 65 years will be able to opt into the programme and request screening through the central screening office.There is also evidence of the long-term cost-effectiveness of AAA screening in men and further evidence that the early mortality benefit from screening is maintained.The items available for download here were in the professional information pack that was sent out to all GPs, GP practice managers and pharmacies prior to the launch of the programme.The invitation leaflet is sent out to all eligible men with the letter inviting them to screening.�The results leaflets are for men diagnosed with a small, medium or large AAA. The relevant result leaflet is given to men directly after their scan.�The poster was sent out to all GPs, GP practice managers and pharmacies in the run-up to the launch of the programme as a means of raising awareness.The information sheet outlines the structure of the programme, the screening process and the primary care that follows for those men diagnosed with an AAA. It also highlights the risk factors and has stats on AAA prevalence.The frequently asked questions address issues relating to all aspects of the programme: what is an AAA, roll-out of the programme, the screening process, the scan itself, the possible results, the available treatment, and how personal information is used.

A quick, free scan for all men aged 65+

The Northern Ireland Abdominal Aortic Aneurysm (AAA) Screening Programme began in June 2012 and offers AAA screening to all men aged 65 and over in Northern Ireland. All men in their 65th year receive an invite in the post. All men aged over 65 who have not been screened can request an appointment. The aim of the AAA screening programme is to reduce AAA-related mortality by providing systematic, population-based screening.� This poster was sent out to all GPs, GP practice managers and pharmacies as part of a professional information pack in the run-up to the launch of the programme. The poster is also distributed to relevant voluntary organisations and charities as a means of raising awareness among the target population.

The (partisan) role of the press in direct democratic campaigns : Evidence from a Swiss vote on European integration

This article analyzes the role of the press in direct democratic campaigns. The paper argues the press has a dual role: On news pages, newspapers ought to inform citizens about the issue positions and frames of the pro and con camps in a balanced way. In editorials, newspapers act as political advocates that promote their own issue frames and try to shape public opinion through voting recommendations. Comparing the issue positions and frames in editorials and news reports in the run-up to the vote on the popular initiative "Yes to Europe" in Switzerland, this article shows that newspapers give similar visibility to the pro and con camps regardless of the papers' own editorial position. However, some newspapers favor issue frames that are in line with their editorial perspectives. In conclusion, newspapers are more similar in news report content than in editorial views.

E-tools for civic education : experiences from the election campaign in Switzerland 2007

Political participation is often very low in Switzerland especially among students and young citizens. In the run-up to the Swiss parliamentary election in October 2007 several online tools and campaigns were developed with the aim to increase not only the level of information about the political programs of parties and candidates, but also the electoral participation of younger citizens. From a practical point of view this paper will describe the development, marketing efforts and the distribution as well as the use of two of these tools : the so-called "Parteienkompass" (party compass) and the "myVote"-tool - an online voting assistance tool based on an issue-matching system comparing policy preferences between voters and candidates on an individual level. We also havea look at similar tools stemming from Voting Advice Applications (VAA) in other countries in Western Europe. The paper closes with the results of an evaluation and an outlook to further developments and on-going projects in the near future in Switzerland.

Using vegetation to characterize the avalanche to Canal del Roc Roig, Vall de Núria (Eastern Pyrenees, Spain)

Avalanche hazard maps of high accuracy are difficult to produce. For land-use planning and management purposes, a good knowledge of extreme run-out zones and frequencies of avalanches is required. In the present work, vegetation recognition (especially focused on Pinus uncinata trees) and dendrochronological techniques are used to characterize avalanches that have occurred in historical times, helping to determine both the extent of large or extreme avalanches and their occurrence in time. Vegetation was studied at the Canal del Roc Roig (eastern Pyrenees, Spain) avalanche path. The avalanches descending this path affect the railway that reaches the Vall de Núria resort and the run-up to the opposite slope. During winter 1996, two important avalanches affecting this path were well documented. These are compared with the results of the vegetation study, consisting of an inventory of flora, the recording of vegetation damages along eight transverse profiles at different altitudes on the path and a dendrochronological sampling campaign. The data obtained contributed to a characterization of the predominant snow accumulation in the starting zone, the 1996 avalanches and the range of frequencies of large avalanches. Also, traces of avalanches that increase the path mapped in the avalanche paths map published by the Institut Cartogràfic de Catalunya in 2000 were identified, improving the initial existing information.