Performance characterization and relative dispersion of drogued drifters deployed in the fjords of Nootka Sound

Senior thesis written for Oceanography 445

Zooplankton retention in Muchalat Inlet, a fjord basin in Nootka Sound, BC

Senior thesis written for Oceanography 445

New approximation for free surface flow of groundwater: capillarity correction

An existing capillarity correction for free surface groundwater flow as modelled by the Boussinesq equation is re-investigated. Existing solutions, based on the shallow flow expansion, have considered only the zeroth-order approximation. Here, a second-order capillarity correction to tide-induced watertable fluctuations in a coastal aquifer adjacent to a sloping beach is derived. A new definition of the capillarity correction is proposed for small capillary fringes, and a simplified solution is derived. Comparisons of the two models show that the simplified model can be used in most cases. The significant effects of higher-order capillarity corrections on tidal fluctuations in a sloping beach are also demonstrated. (c) 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Laminated sediment cores in the Bering Sea

During the last glacial termination, the upper North Pacific Ocean underwent dramatic and rapid changes in oxygenation that lead to the transient intensification of oxygen minimum zones (OMZs), recorded by the widespread occurrence of laminated sediments on circum-Pacific continental margins. We present a new laminated sediment record from the mid-depth (1100 m) northern Bering Sea margin that provides insight into these deglacial OMZ maxima with exceptional, decadal-scale detail. Combined ultrahigh-resolution micro-X-ray-fluorescence (micro-XRF) data and sediment facies analysis of laminae reveal an alternation between predominantly terrigenous and diatom-dominated opal sedimentation. The diatomaceous laminae are interpreted to represent spring/summer productivity events related to the retreating sea ice margin.We identified five laminated sections in the deglacial part of our site. Lamina counts were carried out on these sections and correlated with the Bølling-Allerød and Preboreal phases in the North Greenland Ice Core (NGRIP) oxygen isotope record, indicating an annual deposition of individual lamina couplets (varves). The observed rapid decadal intensifications of anoxia, in particular within the Bølling-Allerød, are tightly coupled to short-term warm events through increases in regional export production. This dependence of laminae formation on warmer temperatures is underlined by a correlation with published Bering Sea sea surface temperature records and d18O data of planktic foraminifera from the Gulf of Alaska. The rapidity of the observed changes strongly implies a close atmospheric teleconnection between North Pacific and North Atlantic regions.We suggest that concomitant increases in export production and subsequent remineralization of organic matter in the Bering Sea, in combination with oxygen-poor waters entering the Being Sea, drove down oxygen concentrations to values below 0.1ml/l and caused laminae preservation. Calculated benthic-planktic ventilation ages show no significant variations throughout the last deglaciation, indicating that changes in formation rates or differing sources of North Pacific mid-depth waters are not prime candidates for strengthening the OMZ at our site. The age models established by our correlation procedure allow for the determination of calendar age control points for the Bølling-Allerød and the Preboreal that are independent of the initial radiocarbon-based chronology. Resulting surface reservoir ages range within 730-990 yr during the Bølling-Allerød, 800-1100 yr in the Younger Dryas, and 765-775 yr for the Preboreal.

Geomorphological constraining of tsunami (?) run-up in the Alcantarilha coastal lowland (Central Algarve, Portugal)

The Alcantarilha lowland, partly barred by a well developed barrier, including foredunes covering Pleistocene-Holocene beachrock and aeolianite, develops across the Alcantarilha infilled estuary, the beach-dune extending further SE until the Salgados lagoon. A topographic and coring survey revealed a peculiar feature at the leeward toe of the dune ridge close to the inlet area: a sandy fan with location, shape and morphology suggesting emplacement by single or multiple overwash of the barrier tip rather than tidal forcing. Its storm or tsunami origin and age are under investigation, and the only time-constrain available at present is that it should post-date ca. 6600 cal BP, the most recent in situ aeolianite (Moura et al., 2007) dated so far. METHODS, DATA SET AND RESULTS The fan boundaries are distinctive in aerial photos and satellite images: it is roughly ellipsoidal, ~200 m wide and ~300 m elongated paralleling the shoreline, rising ~ 0.9-1.2 m above the surrounding floodplain surface. Detailed topography shows that its short axis aligns with SW-NE elongated (though irregular) depressions in the dune crest, which link the beach with the fan. This could have favoured funnelling of, or erosion by, water overtopping the barrier but, in either case, the fan should correspond to extreme and abrupt event(s) of coastal flooding. 18 trenches and cores were performed in the exposed area of the fan and nearby flood plain to obtain samples and data on its sedimentology, lithostratigraphy and geometry. The fan consists of well sorted and rounded sand (Fig. 2). It thins away and wedges out landwards of the apex (located near Alc29T) where it is partly covered by dune sand. Its lower boundary is undulating and marked by textural contrast between sand (fan) and underlying mud (alluvial/lagoonal); an accumulation of marine-sourced perforated pebbles showing limited lateral continuity may pinpoint this boundary near the foredune (core Alc 25, ca. 80 m westward of profile in Fig.1); mud-balls were also observed immediately above this surface in cores and trenches. As the washover was probably emplaced in a barred lagoonal/estuarine floodplain setting, the fan’s northern outer belt is enclosed by low-energy sediments (not shown in Fig. 2).

Influence of hysteresis on tidal capillary fringe dynamics in a well-sorted sand

Nielsen and Perrochet [Adv. Water Resour. 23 (2000) 503] presented experimental data for cyclic water movement in the vadose zone above an oscillating watertable. The response of the watertable to cyclic forcing was characterised by the ratios of the forcing head to watertable amplitudes and their associated phase lag. They found that their non-hysteretic Richards' equation model failed to represent the observed behaviour of these parameters. This paper explores the effect on the simulated capillary fringe dynamics (in terms of these parameters) of including varying degrees of hysteresis in the moisture retention curve used in a numerical model of their experiment. It is clear that hysteresis can indeed account for observed discrepancies between simulation and experiment and that the effect of hysteresis varies with the frequency of oscillation. The use of a single-valued mean retention curve, as advocated by some authors, fails to provide a match between the simulated and observed behaviour of the Nielsen and Perrochet parameters, but is shown to be adequate for predicting time-averaged soil moisture profiles. (C) 2003 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Tidal and wind influences on circulation in the southern mouth of the Ría de Vigo (NW Iberian Peninsula)

Tidal and wind influences on the velocity field in the Ría de Vigo were assessed using atmospheric data from two meteorological stations located at Bouzas port and on an oceanic buoy off Silleiro Cape along with oceanic data from an ADCP moored in the Ría for a 72-day period. A two-layer circulation pattern was observed. Near-surface and near-bottom currents are primarily influenced by wind (especially remote winds), separated by an intermediate layer dominated by tidal variability. At subtidal frequencies, residual currents are well correlated with wind variability. Remote wind forcing exhibited a markedly high correlation with surface layer currents, indicating the major role played by wind in the long-term upwelling-modulated circulation of the Ría.

Tidal and wind influences on circulation in the southern mouth of the Ría de Vigo (NW Iberian Peninsula)

Tidal and wind influences on the velocity field in the Ría de Vigo were assessed using atmospheric data from two meteorological stations located at Bouzas port and on an oceanic buoy off Silleiro Cape along with oceanic data from an ADCP moored in the Ría for a 72-day period. A two-layer circulation pattern was observed. Near-surface and near-bottom currents are primarily influenced by wind (especially remote winds), separated by an intermediate layer dominated by tidal variability. At subtidal frequencies, residual currents are well correlated with wind variability. Remote wind forcing exhibited a markedly high correlation with surface layer currents, indicating the major role played by wind in the long-term upwelling-modulated circulation of the Ría.

A descriptive analysis of the seasonal variation of physical oceanographic characteristics in the northern region of the Todos os Santos Bay (Bahia, Brazil)

The results obtained in the August and December 2003, August 2004 and January 2005 oceanographic campaigns in the northern region of the Todos os Santos Bay (lat. 12º44.5'S; long. 038º35.00'W) between the Madre de Deus and Maré islands are analyzed. Instruments of continuous and discrete samplings were used to measure hydrographic properties currents and tides. The water mass of the northern region of the bay is forced by semidiurnal and mesotides of form number 0.08 and the lunar component M2 height was estimated at 91cm. The time series of the surface currents indicated movements in the N/S direction, forced by the tide with maximum magnitudes of 0.73 m.s-1 on the December 2003 campaign. However, in August 2004 the currents were dominated by the wind stress forcing, with a maximum speed of 1.85 m.s-1 and SE direction. Near the bottom, the influence of the tide is not as evident, with a decrease in intensity due to internal and bottom friction, with a maximum velocity of 0.17 m.s-1. The thermal and haline structures were weakly horizontally, as well as vertically stratified, with extreme values varying in the intervals 23ºC (August, 2004) to 28ºC (December, 2003) and 31.0 psu (August, 2003) to 36.0 psu (December, 2003), respectively. Some conclusions may be drawn from these results: i) The signs of the dilution of the fresh water discharges of the Caípe, Mataripe and São Paulo rivers in the region under the influence of the RLAM were observed only during the winter periods, but in the summer the region was flooded by waters of oceanic origin and the salinities above 36.0 indicated TW mass intrusion; ii) The N-S circulation near the RLAM is strongly dominated by the tide, and the importance of the M2 component was unequivocal, however, the E-W component presented some tidal modulation away from abrupt bottom topographical changes, and iii) The residual series, calculated as the difference between the original and modeled, is about ¼ of the original and confirmed its semidiurnal character.

Tidal-amplitude rhythms of larval release: variable departure from presumed optimal timing among populations of the mottled shore crab

It is widely assumed that optimal timing of larval release is of major importance to offspring survival, but the extent to which environmental factors entrain synchronous reproductive rhythms in natural populations is not well known. We sampled the broods of ovigerous females of the common shore crab Pachygrapsus transversus at both sheltered and exposed rocky shores interspersed along a so-km coastline, during four different periods, to better assess inter-population differences of larval release timing and to test for the effect of wave action. Shore-specific patterns were consistent through time. Maximum release fell within 1 day around syzygies on all shores, which matched dates of maximum tidal amplitude. Within this very narrow range, populations at exposed shores anticipated hatching compared to those at sheltered areas, possibly due to mechanical stimulation by wave action. Average departures from syzygial release ranged consistently among shores from 2.4 to 3.3 days, but in this case we found no evidence for the effect of wave exposure. Therefore, processes varying at the scale of a few kilometres affect the precision of semilunar timing and may produce differences in the survival of recently hatched larvae. Understanding the underlying mechanisms causing departures from presumed optimal release timing is thus important for a more comprehensive evaluation of reproductive success of invertebrate populations.

Shelf and estuarine transport mechanisms affecting the supply of competent larvae in a suite of brachyuran crabs with different life histories

Supply of competent larvae to the benthic habitat is a major determinant of population dynamics in coastal and estuarine invertebrates with an indirect life cycle. Larval delivery may depend not only on physical transport mechanisms, but also on larval behavior and physiological progress to the competent stage. Yet, the combined analysis of such factors has seldom been attempted. We used time-series analyses to examine tide- and wind-driven mechanisms responsible for the supply of crab megalopae to an estuarine river under a major marine influence in SW Spain, and monitored the vertical distribution of upstream moving megalopae, their net flux and competent state. The species Panopeus africanus (estuarine), Brachynotus sexdentatus (euryhaline) and Nepinnotheres pinnotheres (coastal) comprised 80% of the whole sample, and responded in a similar way to tide and wind forcing. Tidal range was positively correlated to supply, with maxima 0 to 1 d after spring tides, suggesting selective tidal stream transport. Despite being extensively subjected to upwelling, downwind drift under the effect of westerlies, not Ekman transport, explained residual supply variation at our sampling area. Once in the estuary, net flux and competence state matched the expected trends. Net upstream flux increased from B. sexdentatus to P. africanus, favoring transport to a sheltered coastal habitat (N. pinnotheres), or to the upper estuary (P. africanus). Competence state was highest in N. pinnotheres, intermediate in B. sexdentatus and lowest in P. africanus, as expected if larvae respond to cues from adequate benthic habitat. P. africanus megalopae were found close to the bottom, not above, rendering slower upstream transport than anticipated.

Natural and human forcing in recent geomorphic change; case studies in the Rio de la Plata basin

An analysis of geomorphic system`s response to change in human and natural drivers in some areas within the Rio de la Plata basin is presented The aim is to determine whether an acceleration of geomorphic processes has taken place in recent years and, if so, to what extent it is due to natural (climate) or human (land-use) drivers Study areas of different size, socio-economic and geomorphic conditions have been selected: the Rio de la Plata estuary and three sub-basins within its watershed Sediment cores were extracted and dated ((210)Pb) to determine sedimentation rates since the end of the 19th century. Rates were compared with time series on rainfall as well as human drivers such as population, GDP, livestock load, crop area, energy consumption or cement consumption, all of them related to human capacity to disturb land surface Data on river discharge were also gathered Results obtained indicate that sedimentation rates during the last century have remained essentially constant in a remote Andean basin, whereas they show important increases in the other two, particularly one located by the Sao Paulo metropolitan area Rates in the estuary are somewhere in between It appears that there is an intensification of denudation/sedimentation processes within the basin. Rainfall remained stable or varied very slightly during the period analysed and does not seem to explain increases of sedimentation rates observed. Human drivers, particularly those more directly related to capacity to disturb land surface (GDP, energy or cement consumption) show variations that suggest human forcing is a more likely explanation for the observed change in geomorphic processes It appears that a marked increase in denudation, of a ""technological"" nature, is taking place in this basin and leading to an acceleration of sediment supply This is coherent with similar increases observed in other regions (C) 2010 Elsevier B V All rights reserved

Tidal effects on sea water intrusion in unconfined aquifers

A variable-density groundwater model is used to analyse the effects of tidal fluctuations on sea-water intrusion in an unconfined aquifer. It is shown that the tidal activity forces the sea-water to intrude further inland and it also creates a thicker interface than would occur without tidal effects. Moreover, the configuration of the interface is radically changed when the tidal fluctuations are included. This is because of the dramatic changes in the flow pattern and velocity of the groundwater near the shoreline. For aquifer depths much larger than tidal amplitudes, the tidal fluctuation does not have much effect on how far the sea-water intrudes into the aquifer; nevertheless, a significant change in the configuration of concentration contours because of the effect of tidal fluctuations is observed. This change is more noticeable at the top of the aquifer, near the water table, than at the bottom of the aquifer, and is caused by the infiltration of salt water into the top of the aquifer at higher tidal levels. A flatter beach slope, therefore, intensifies this phenomenon. The interface configurations do not change noticeably over the course of a tidal cycle. Neglecting tidal fluctuation effects results in an inaccurate evaluation of the water table elevation at the land end of the aquifer, although no distinguishable difference is seen between the water tables near the shoreline. Where the landward boundary condition is a constant head, the effects of tidal fluctuations on sea-water intrusion are more pronounced than for cases where the landward boundary condition is a specified flux. Also it is shown that the effects of tidal fluctuations are more significant for a sloping beach than for a vertical shoreline and the salt water intrudes further inland for the sloping case. (C) 1999 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

A two-dimensional analytical solution of groundwater responses to tidal loading in an estuary and ocean

Previous studies on tidal dynamics of coastal aquifers have focussed on the inland propagation of oceanic tides in the cross-shore direction, a configuration that is essentially one-dimensional. Aquifers at natural coasts can also be influenced by tidal waves in nearby estuaries, resulting in a more complex behaviour of head fluctuations in the aquifers. We present an analytical solution to the two-dimensional depth-averaged groundwater flow equation for a semi-infinite aquifer subject to oscillating head conditions at the boundaries. The solution describes the tidal dynamics of a coastal aquifer that is adjacent to a cross-shore estuary. Both the effects of oceanic and estuarine tides on the aquifer are included in the solution. The analytical prediction of the head fluctuations is verified by comparison with numerical solutions computed using a standard finite-difference method. An essential feature of the present analytical solution is the interaction between the cross- and along-shore tidal waves in the aquifer area near the estuary's entry. As the distance from the estuary or coastline increases, the wave interaction is weakened and the aquifer response is reduced, respectively, to the one-dimensional solution for oceanic tides or the solution of Sun (Sun H. A two-dimensional analytical solution of groundwater response to tidal loading in an estuary, Water Resour Res 1997;33:1429-35) for two-dimensional non-interacting tidal waves. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.