Beach face and berm morphodynamics fronting a coastal lagoon

This study documents two different modes of berm development: (I) vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and (2) horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm. Concurrent high-frequency measurements of bed elevation and the associated wave runup distribution reveal the details of each of these berm growth modes. In mode I sediment is eroded from the inner surf and lower swash zone where swash interactions are prevalent. The net transport of this sediment is landward only, resulting in accretion onto the upper beach face and over the berm crest. The final outcome is a steepening of the beach face gradient, a change in the profile shape towards concave and rapid vertical and horizontal growth of the berm. In mode 2 sediment is eroded from the lower two-thirds of the active swash zone during the rising tide and is transported both landward and seaward. On the falling tide sediment is eroded from the inner surf and transported landward to backfill the zone eroded on the rising tide. The net result is relatively slow steepening of the beach face, a change of the profile shape towards convex, and horizontal progradation through the formation of a neap berm. The primary factor determining which mode of berm growth occurs is the presence or absence of swash overtopping at the time of sediment accumulation on the beach face. This depends on the current phase of the spring-neap tide cycle, the wave runup height (and indirectly offshore wave conditions) and the height of the pre-existing berm. A conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth. (c) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Uncertainty evaluation of an axi-symmetric measurement machine

This paper describes a method of uncertainty evaluation for axi-symmetric measurement machines which is compliant with GUM and PUMA methodologies. Specialized measuring machines for the inspection of axisymmetric components enable the measurement of properties such as roundness (radial runout), axial runout and coning. These machines typically consist of a rotary table and a number of contact measurement probes located on slideways. Sources of uncertainty include the probe calibration process, probe repeatability, probe alignment, geometric errors in the rotary table, the dimensional stability of the structure holding the probes and form errors in the reference hemisphere which is used to calibrate the system. The generic method is described and an evaluation of an industrial machine is described as a worked example. Type A uncertainties were obtained from a repeatability study of the probe calibration process, a repeatability study of the actual measurement process, a system stability test and an elastic deformation test. Type B uncertainties were obtained from calibration certificates and estimates. Expanded uncertainties, at 95% confidence, were then calculated for the measurement of; radial runout (1.2 µm with a plunger probe or 1.7 µm with a lever probe); axial runout (1.2 µm with a plunger probe or 1.5 µm with a lever probe); and coning/swash (0.44 arc seconds with a plunger probe or 0.60 arc seconds with a lever probe).

Projet EMACOP : caractérisation des vagues et du potentiel houlomoteur des sites d’Esquibien et de Saint-Guénolé par simulation numérique

The French research EMACOP project aims at characterising wave power nearby onshore structures. This paper presents the application of the non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation and transformation on two hot spots in Brittany. The numerical simulations were performed for dominant wave conditions and three tide levels. The results of wave simulations allow us to characterise wave energy resources and define Wave Energy Converters (WEC)'s promising positions on both sites.