The stitchery collective

The stitchery collective is fashion-based design collective. Founded in February 2010 the collective brings together creative practitioners from across an expanded field of fashion design to develop innovative new models for both the design, production and consumption of fashion in the 21st century. Under the broad question "can fashion be more than pretty clothes for pretty people?" the collective has developed a range of workshops, exhibitions and creative projects that both engage the wider public and targeted community groups. The projects include "consciousness raising: up cycling workshops, zero-waste pattern cutting workshops, and sewing workshops with members of Brisbane's Karen, Sudansese, and Iraqi communities. Through these projects we test how innovative fashion design practice can engage with questions of environmental sustainability, ethical practices, and social inclusion. Established around a set of people -centred values, the stitchery collective therefore seeks to re-cast fashion as a 'less bad' field of creative endeavor and, one that sustains, inspires and connects individuals and communities. In seeking to develop new models of fashion practice that are socially oriented and environmentally responsible the stitchery outcomes align with the broader field of Design for Sustainability.

Inflow cannula design for biventricular assist devices

Cardiovascular diseases are a leading cause of death throughout the developed world. With the demand for donor hearts far exceeding the supply, a bridge-to-transplant or permanent solution is required. This is currently achieved with ventricular assist devices (VADs), which can be used to assist the left ventricle (LVAD), right ventricle (RVAD), or both ventricles simultaneously (BiVAD). Earlier generation VADs were large, volume-displacement devices designed for temporary support until a donor heart was found. The latest generation of VADs use rotary blood pump technology which improves device lifetime and the quality of life for end stage heart failure patients. VADs are connected to the heart and greater vessels of the patient through specially designed tubes called cannulae. The inflow cannulae, which supply blood to the VAD, are usually attached to the left atrium or ventricle for LVAD support, and the right atrium or ventricle for RVAD support. Few studies have characterized the haemodynamic difference between the two cannulation sites, particularly with respect to rotary RVAD support. Inflow cannulae are usually made of metal or a semi-rigid polymer to prevent collapse with negative pressures. However suction, and subsequent collapse, of the cannulated heart chamber can be a frequent occurrence, particularly with the relatively preload insensitive rotary blood pumps. Suction events may be associated with endocardial damage, pump flow stoppages and ventricular arrhythmias. While several VAD control strategies are under development, these usually rely on potentially inaccurate sensors or somewhat unreliable inferred data to estimate preload. Fixation of the inflow cannula is usually achieved through suturing the cannula, often via a felt sewing ring, to the cannulated chamber. This technique extends the time on cardiopulmonary bypass which is associated with several postoperative complications. The overall objective of this thesis was to improve the placement and design of rotary LVAD and RVAD inflow cannulae to achieve enhanced haemodynamic performance, reduced incidence of suction events, reduced levels of postoperative bleeding and a faster implantation procedure. Specific objectives were: * in-vitro evaluation of LVAD and RVAD inflow cannula placement, * design and in-vitro evaluation of a passive mechanism to reduce the potential for heart chamber suction, * design and in-vitro evaluation of a novel suture-less cannula fixation device. In order to complete in-vitro evaluation of VAD inflow cannulae, a mock circulation loop (MCL) was developed to accurately replicate the haemodynamics in the human systemic and pulmonary circulations. Validation of the MCL’s haemodynamic performance, including the form and magnitude of pressure, flow and volume traces was completed through comparisons of patient data and the literature. The MCL was capable of reproducing almost any healthy or pathological condition, and provided a useful tool to evaluate VAD cannulation and other cardiovascular devices. The MCL was used to evaluate inflow cannula placement for rotary VAD support. Left and right atrial and ventricular cannulation sites were evaluated under conditions of mild and severe heart failure. With a view to long term LVAD support in the severe left heart failure condition, left ventricular inflow cannulation was preferred due to improved LVAD efficiency and reduced potential for thrombus formation. In the mild left heart failure condition, left atrial cannulation was preferred to provide an improved platform for myocardial recovery. Similar trends were observed with RVAD support, however to a lesser degree due to a smaller difference in right atrial and ventricular pressures. A compliant inflow cannula to prevent suction events was then developed and evaluated in the MCL. As rotary LVAD or RVAD preload was reduced, suction events occurred in all instances with a rigid inflow cannula. Addition of the compliant segment eliminated suction events in all instances. This was due to passive restriction of the compliant segment as preload dropped, thus increasing the VAD circuit resistance and decreasing the VAD flow rate. Therefore, the compliant inflow cannula acted as a passive flow control / anti-suction system in LVAD and RVAD support. A novel suture-less inflow cannula fixation device was then developed to reduce implantation time and postoperative bleeding. The fixation device was evaluated for LVAD and RVAD support in cadaveric animal and human hearts attached to a MCL. LVAD inflow cannulation was achieved in under two minutes with the suture-less fixation device. No leakage through the suture-less fixation device – myocardial interface was noted. Continued development and in-vivo evaluation of this device may result in an improved inflow cannulation technique with the potential for off-bypass insertion. Continued development of this research, in particular the compliant inflow cannula and suture-less inflow cannulation device, will result in improved postoperative outcomes, life span and quality of life for end-stage heart failure patients.

Kuva tikkeinä kankaalla : Kokemuksia PE-design 6.0 -kirjontakuvion suunnitteluohjelman kahden automaattisen tekniikan käytettävyydestä

The aim of the thesis was to compare the correspondence of the outcome a computer assisted program appearance compared to the original image. The aspect of the study was directed to embroidery with household machines. The study was made from the usability point of view with Brother's PE-design 6.0 embroidery design programs two automatic techniques; multicoloured fragment design and multicoloured stitch surface design. The study's subject is very current because of the fast development of machine embroidery. The theory is based on history of household sewing machines, embroidery sewing machines, stitch types in household sewing machines, embroidery design programs as well as PE-design 6.0 embroidery design program's six automatic techniques. Additionally designing of embroidery designs were included: original image, digitizing, punching, applicable sewing threads as well as the connection between embroidery designs and materials used on embroidery. Correspondences of sewn appearances were examined with sewing experimental methods. 18 research samples of five original image were sewn with both techniques. Experiments were divided into four testing stages in design program. Every testing stage was followed by experimental sewing with Brother Super Galaxie 3100D embroidery machine. Experiments were reported into process files and forms made for the techniques. Research samples were analysed on images syntactic bases with sensory perception assessment. Original images and correspondence of the embroidery appearances were analysed with a form made of it. The form was divided into colour and shape assessment in five stage-similarity-scale. Based on this correspondence analysis it can be said that with both automatic techniques the best correspondence of colour and shape was achieved by changing the standard settings and using the makers own thread chart and edited original image. According to the testing made it is impossible to inform where the image editing possibilities of the images are sufficient or does the optimum correspondence need a separate program. When aiming at correspondence between appearances of two images the computer is unable to trace by itself the appearance of the original image. Processing a computer program assisted embroidery image human perception and personal decision making are unavoidable.

Ateljeevaatteen valmistuksen työtavat Salon Kaarlo Forsmanin tuotannossa

The objective of the present study was to increase knowledge about the atelier culture of recent history, especially about the ways in which atelier clothes were made. I look at the ways of dress-making in the production of a renowned atelier, Salon Kaarlo Forsman. I also give a general outline of the atelier. The studying method I used was triangulation, which is a typical approach in case studies of recent history. My data include 23 dresses by the Salon Forsman, theme interviews of four of the Salon workers and one mannequin, data from my research work, as well as press material and archives. The basis of the analysis of these materials was a theme frame that I had put together with the help of pre-understanding. I then completed and defined the theme frame on the basis of the analysis of the data. I also analyzed the dresses in the fashion photos in the press material. Salon Kaarlo Forsman represents a certain cultural period, the years 1937-1986, and a place where a woman could have individual clothes made for her, from hats to fur coats. The atelier was particularly known for embroidery with beads, draping, and fantastic cuttings designed by the owner, fashion designer Kaarlo Forsman. I draw an outline of the work and practices of the atelier, but also that of Kaarlo Forsman’s life work, as he had a great influence on the sewing methods atelier clothes. Mr. Forsman was able to stretch the first period of modern fashion well into the third period by refusing new, labor-saving methods and sticking to individually designer clothes to the end of his enterprise. The crucial practices in the atelier that I present in this study are fitting, designing, finishing and sewing, as well as beading and the decoration of dresses. I compare the activity, practices and dress-making methods in the Forsman atelier to that of Haute Couture in Paris, which served as model for Finnish fashion houses. I point out the similarities and differences.

O que sabe o agente comunitário de saúde ?

A partir da formalização do Programa de Agentes Comunitários de Saúde e do Programa Saúde da Família pelo Ministério da Saúde (anos 90), as discussões sobre a reorientação dos modelos assistenciais ganham destaque. O Programa Saúde da Família passa a ser visto por boa parte dos profissionais de saúde coletiva como um modelo capaz de imprimir mudanças não apenas na atenção em si como também na dinâmica dos processos. Ao propor a substituição das estratégias tradicionais, voltadas para a doença e centradas no hospital, a nova proposta voltase, entre outros aspectos, para a ação preventiva e para a promoção da saúde. Busca contemplar também a atenção às necessidades de saúde da população adscrita, a família e seu território, ações intersetoriais e tem na equipe multiprofissional pilar importante no cuidado. O Agente Comunitário de Saúde se apresenta como ator importante na possibilidade de mudança de modelo assistencial; atuando intensamente na produção do cuidado assim como na organização de tal assistência. Criam-se conflitos acerca da percepção de potencialidades e da possibilidade de interação entre os diversos aspectos envolvidos neste contexto. Este trabalho buscou investigar a percepção de Agentes Comunitários de Saúde do município de Petrópolis RJ acerca dos saberes envolvidos na sua prática. A estratégia metodológica utilizada para coleta de dados em campo foi a de entrevistas semi estruturadas. O corpo textual gerado pelas entrevistas foi analisado com base na teoria da Análise do Discurso. Este estudo concluiu que o saber do Agentes Comunitários de Saúde aponta para uma posição que vai além de ser ponte ou de fazer ponte. Argumenta que a potencialidade deste saber é a de ser como a linha de costura entre comunidade e as propostas de cuidado. Esta imagem indica que ao pertencer em algum momento a ambos tecidos, e ao fazer o movimento de pertencer ora ao tecido comunidade e hora ao tecido UBS, o ACS pode aproximar essas partes na busca da construção de algo mais unificado. Como em uma colcha de retalhos, onde cada tecido mantém suas características e padronagens iniciais, mas aos serem costurados, formam algo único, inteiro.

Gerando eus, tecendo redes e trançando nós: ditos e não ditos das professoras e estudantes negras nos cotidianos do curso de pedagogia

O presente trabalho objetiva compreender como a temática afrobrasileira era abordada nos cotidianos do Curso de Pedagogia, campus I, da Universidade Estadual da Paraíba. A questão norteadora da pesquisa foi descobrir como professoras e estudantes negras se sentem e enfocam essa temática nas suas redes de conhecimentos, práticas e relações. Para tanto, foi preciso adentrar na história do povo negro no Brasil a partir da luta dos movimentos sociais negros buscando entender as noções de raça, racismo, identidade e os limites da educação do/a negro/a ao longo da história brasileira. Neste percurso se dialoga com diversos estudiosos/as como: Santos (2002), Viana (2007), Oliveira (2003, 2006, 2007, 2008), Fernandes (2007), Domingues (2009), Munanga (2002, 2006, 2009), Veiga (2007, 2008)), Pereira (2008, 2009), Gomes (2003, 2006, 2008), Morin (2000), Hall (2003), Moreira e Câmara (2008), dentre outros. Exemplificando a luta e a resistência de mulheres negras são apresentadas as histórias de vida de quatro professoras e quatro estudantes negras, praticantes (CERTEAU, 2007), sujeitos da pesquisa, que expõem o processo de tessitura de suas identidades. Suas narrativas evidenciam indícios de racismo e discriminação que marcaram suas trajetórias, desde o seio familiar, fortalecendo-se na escola, na academia e, para algumas, chegando até o ambiente de trabalho. Uma das professoras é a pesquisadora que, à medida que narra a história de vida das praticantes, tece sua própria história, como mulheres costurando uma colcha de retalhos em que cada estampa retrata os momentos vividos. A metodologia de pesquisa nos/dos/com os cotidianos (ALVES, 2008) foi o caminho percorrido. Além da observação dos cotidianos, foram realizadas conversas (LARROSA, 2003) sobre as histórias de vida (BOSI, 2003; PORTELLI, 1997) e tecidas as narrativas a partir dessas vivências. Estas revelaram que tais mulheres, ao longo de suas histórias, viveram/vivem processos de afirmaçãonegação, visto que suas identidades não são fixas, mas negociações e renegociações (MUNANGA, 2010) que geram alegrias e conflitos. O entendimento do que é Ser Negra é experimentado por cada uma, sem um modelo padrão para suas existências. Elas foram se gerando nas relações com o/a outro/a, em cada contexto familiar, escolar, acadêmico e profissional. São senhoras de suas vidas e mesmo as mais jovens buscam fazer suas histórias com autonomia. São praticantes porque lutaram/lutam para conquistar um lugar na vida, utilizando astúcias e táticas para fabricar (CERTEAU, 2007) meios de enfrentamento das adversidades. As táticas do silêncio, do estudo e do trabalho revelaram que essas mulheres não ficaram invisíveis nem se colocaram como vítimas no espaço social. Assim, urge delinear a superação da visão da pessoa negra a partir dos traços físicos e reconhecer as raízes do povo brasileiro para compreender a história da negritude. A partir da ancestralidade, serão identificadas as origens do povo negro, que poderão trazer o passado de resistência e luta por liberdade, dignidade, cidadania que produzem o orgulho de ser negra. Orgulho que recupera a autoestima e a capacidade de organização e mobilização para combater o racismo e as desigualdades raciais. Os cursos de formação docente precisam abordar essa temática para capacitar os/as futuros/as professores/as nessa tarefa. Essa abordagem envolve o ensinaraprender, em que professores/as e estudantes assumem compromisso com uma educação crítica e inclusiva. A reflexão entre os/as docentes formadores/as nessa perspectiva plural e intercultural poderia ajudar na superação do eurocentrismo ainda presente nos conteúdos e nas mentalidades. Sob essa ótica, tecer um processo de formação docente no Curso de Pedagogia, comprometido com uma educação inclusiva, considera um contínuo fazerdesfazer, na tessitura de um diálogo permanente entre a práticateoriaprática, num movimento de pesquisaintervenção. Isso implica a reflexão da trajetória pessoal e coletiva e a articulação da ação pedagógica com um projeto político de transformação da sociedade excludente em sociedade plural e solidária. Os não ditos necessitam de aprofundamento em trabalhos posteriores, pois os silenciamentos se referem ao passado próximo e as relações interraciais na família, na academia e também nos ambientes de trabalho. Será que não existe mais racismo? Ou este foi naturalizado dificultando sua identificação nos cotidianos? Os limites do processo de introjeção do racismo, que provocam a invisibilidade de algumas praticantes, são novos desafios para estudos futuros. Assim, percebo que colcha de retalhos tecida ao longo desta trajetória não é justaposição como usualmente é entendida. Para além disto, significa a socialização das experiências vividas nos cotidianos das praticantes, a fim de inspirar atitudes de combate ao racismo que se ampliem para o contexto social.

Apresentando as partidas: o ordinário e o infraordinário em Georges Perec e Roberto Bolaño

Esta tese propõe o estudo das relações entre o método infraordinário de observação do cotidiano, desenvolvido por Georges Perec, tendo como foco os romances La Vie mode demploi (1978), do próprio Perec, e Los detectives salvajes (1998), de Roberto Bolaño. O objetivo é, primeiramente, defender a ideia de que Bolaño foi uma espécie de plagiário original de Perec, reconhecendo no romance La Vie mode demploi ressonâncias para a produção de sua mais celebrada obra. Num segundo momento se faz uma analogia entre produção literária e imanência do comum, com destaque para a teoria oulipiana (Oulipo Ouvroir de Littérature Potentielle, espécie de Sala de Costura da Literatura Potencial) como uma arte combinatória. Por fim, apontando semelhanças e diferenças entre esses autores, defendemos a tese de que, apesar das distâncias culturais e geográficas, podemos correlacioná-los pela maneira como potencializam os objetos em suas descrições, revisitam o passado, e tentam subverter a tradição literária. Pode-se afirmar que as possíveis relações entre Perec e Bolaño remontam à revolução narrativa dos anos 70, com a prosa de ambos rasurando certo horizonte estético. E em ambos os romances visualiza-se uma espécie de puzzle literário. Todas essas possibilidades de leitura, interpretação e combinação se encontram nas referidas obras dos escritores elencados. Desse modo, acreditamos que com o método infraordinário de Georges Perec é possível compreender e interpretar melhor alguns escritos de Roberto Bolaño

Through the Wire: Relations of Power and Relations of Violence

Edkins, J. and Pin-Fat, V. (2005). Through the Wire: Relations of Power and Relations of Violence. Millennium - Journal of International Studies. 34(1), pp.1-24 RAE2008

Auto-referência de sintomas de lesões músculo-esqueléticas ligadas ao trabalho LMELT numa grande empresa em Portugal

RESUMO - A dor, incómodo ou desconforto ao nível músculo-esquelético, sobretudo devido a situações e/ou postos de trabalho com elevadas exigências ao nível postural, de aplicação de força, de repetitividade ou por incorrecta distribuição das pausas, é aceite como um indicador de situações de risco passíveis de se encontrarem na génese de lesões músculo- -esqueléticas ligadas ao trabalho (LMELT) (Stuart-Buttle, 1994). No sentido de avaliar a prevalência de sintomas de LME, efectuou-se um estudo numa grande empresa da indústria de componentes para automóveis na região de Lisboa durante o ano de 2001. Utilizou-se um instrumento de recolha de informação construído a partir de uma adaptação do questionário nórdico músculo-esquelético (QNM) (Kuorinka et al., 1987). Com o apoio do serviço de saúde ocupacional da referida empresa, o questionário foi entregue a todos os trabalhadores, obtendo-se uma taxa de respondentes de 63,2% (n = 574). A população em estudo é maioritariamente do sexo feminino (83,9%), tem idades compreendidas entre os 18 e os 65 anos e a classe modal situa-se entre os 26 e os 33 anos (23,3%). Os resultados evidenciam uma alta prevalência de sintomatologia de LME e diferenças significativas de sintomas entre as categorias profissionais (1) operadores de máquina de costura, (2) trabalhadores dos armazéns e de transporte de mercadorias e (3) trabalhadores da logística, qualidade e escritórios. Os operadores apresentam índices superiores e diferentes (p < 0,05) de sintomatologia nos últimos doze meses ao nível da região cervical, ombros, cotovelos, ancas/coxas, pernas/joelhos e tornozelos/pés e nos punhos nos últimos sete dias. No presente estudo, a análise dos dados obtidos parece indicar que a natureza e as características da actividade de trabalho do grupo profissional operadores de máquina de costura (flexão cervical > 20°, trabalho muscular predominantemente estático ao nível da articulação dos ombros, elevação dos membros superiores > 45°, ortostatismo e exigências elevadas ao nível dos punhos/mãos) estão implicadas no desencadear da sintomatologia auto- -referida.

Margaret Glassford fonds, 1941, 1951, 1961, 1971, 1973-1975, 1977-1984, 1986-2000, 2002, 2005, n.d.

Margaret was an only child who grew up on a farm just east of Cayuga, Ontario. After high school, Margaret attended Hamilton Teacher’s College and took a position with Grantham Public School Board and taught at Power Glen school. Margaret was married in 1962 and had 2 children, a daughter and a son in 1963 and 1964, respectively. Margaret left her teaching job to raise her children. Margaret was very creative and artistic and during this time, focused on these talents, which included painting, graphic arts and sewing. Margaret was also an accomplished pianist. In her 40’s, Margaret enrolled at Brock University and in 1989 obtained a Honors Bachelor of Arts degree with First-Class Honors in Sociology. In partial fulfillment of her Honors B.A. she completed her thesis that is entitled ; The State and Liberal Feminism: The Ontario Government’s “Business Ownership For Women Program”. While living in St. Catharines, Margaret attended York University and graduated with a Master of Arts in Sociology in 1992 where her studies focused on women’s issues. Margaret received a scholarship from York University and was a teaching assistant. Margaret stayed on at York University and completed her academic requirements for a Doctorate degree in Sociology. Her dissertation was on self employed women in St. Catharines at the beginning of WWII -- not the” Rosie the Riveters” who took over jobs formerly held by men who had to go off to fight World War II, but women who ran their own businesses when that was still unusual. Margaret completed the research for her thesis but did not complete her written thesis as she made a difficult decision to put her academic work on hold in the mid-1990’s and she returned to her love for the arts, although she always remained a voracious reader and interested in women’s issues. In the last decade of her life, she took up quilting with a passion, which she referred to as fabric arts. Margaret loved colour and being non-traditional. Margaret had been a quilting instructor at the Flemington College for Fine Arts in Haliburton. In 1997, Margaret founded Project Smile in the St. Catharines region, a non-profit group who make quilts for children with cancer. Margaret was also the President of the Niagara Heritage Quilters’ Guild in 2006-2007 and was very involved with the Local Council of Women.

W.W. Tyrrill receipt, June 1888

A receipt from W.W. Tyrrill, of St. Catharines, Ontario dated June 2, 1888, for a ladies Swiss watch priced at $11.00. The receipt is a rental agreement which specifies the terms of a fee payment schedule. Information on the receipt indicates Mr. Tyrrill sold watches, jewelry, silver plated goods, albums and Bibles. He is also listed as an agent for pianos, organs and Singer sewing machines. This receipt was in the possession of Iris Sloman Bell, of St. Catharines. Relatives of the Sloman Bell families include former Black slaves from the United States who settled in southern Ontario.There are various spellings of the Tyrrill name within the Bell family archive. Other forms of the name include Tyrell, Tyrrell, and Terrell.

Collection of Canadian periodical clippings and Peninsular Game Club of St. Catharines broadside, 1874, [1910-1950]

Items include: 13 small poems clipped from newspapers. None of the poems list authors. Most of the poems are based on life lessons. Clippings of short stories which appear to have come from a St. Catharines newspaper. The stories include anecdotes, humour and medical advice. There is no author listed on any of the stories. 2 coloured sewing machine advertisements each measuring 9 cm. x 13 cm. and 9 cm. x 14 cm. 1 broadside measuring 27 cm. x 37 cm. and posted by the Peninsular Game Club of St. Catharines. The broadside is a copy of the game laws of 1874 with a warning that breach of these laws will bring rigorous prosecution.

Letter - E.C. Schmon to Arthur A. Schmon, 22 & 23 November 1919

Eleanore Celeste mentions a visit to Rahway with her sister. She also discusses Xmas gifts she is sewing. The letters are labelled number 51, 52 and 53.

Letter - E.C. Schmon to Arthur A. Schmon, Monday Afternoon

The letter reads:" Dearest, How do you like this little surprise party? It is the latest way of sewing for the Red Cross - You remember I told you I was to meet Maud at two o'clock this afternoon, and we were going down to make surgical dressings? Well, thru a little misunderstanding about our meeting place, we missed each other; so I returned home. Mother thought I looked tired and insisted upon my taking a nap. I cam up to my room, and for an hour I've been trying to sleep, but "thought"(???) has prevented it. Artie dear, I have such an awful attack of the blues and while I was lying there trying to fight it, and also wishing that I knew your address - for I felt so much like writing to you, the thought came to me, that I could send a letter to you thru Chaunce, if I knew his company number. Hence - ensued a little chat with Mrs. Leake on the phone, and receiving the desired information, rushed to my desk, and - thus endeth the little tale. You are just about reaching Washington now, and I bet you are tired after that dreadfully monotonous trip. Take good care of yourself my "___"(?) Good luck, and lots of other wishes. Lovingly "Me". P.S. Write real, real soon and thank Chaunce for playing postman. L.

Receipt to Mr. Woodruff from V. Merritt

Receipt to Mr. Woodruff from V. Merritt for sewing materials, May 2, 1846.