Moved by spirit of Canadian nature

A travel article about a visit to Klemtu and the Great Bear Rainforest, British Columbia. A LOW-TIDE mark of rocks coated in orange seaweed borders the islands of the Great Bear Rainforest. Our seaplane stays low under the clouds. As we approach the village of Klemtu, turning into Finlayson Channel, the trees beneath us thicken against the shoreline like a concert crowd being pushed from behind. There's no gap between the dark, still sea and the front row of soaring conifers, seemingly no entry point into one of the last great wilderness areas.

City that enjoys life

A travel article about lifestyle and architecture in Vancouver, Canada. I arrived in Vancouver on a Sunday morning and followed the smell of crepes to a café that had opened early. It was warm, and the outside tables were filling up. The others had a last-night look about them, except a family that smiled as they took the table next to mine. There were no shoppers yet, but the mall was busy with walkers and cyclists. Here and there the down-and-out found seats in the sun; their shadows ran the length of shop fronts...

The pirate of Karoussades

A travel memoir about the village of Karoussades, Corfu. When Liam and I caught the overnight ferry to Corfu we didn't have money for food, and my shoes had opened at the seams. Our last lira had been spent on a carton of Lucky Strike, which had been stolen by the time we docked the next day. In the haze of a Greek morning we were ushered into a minivan by the owner of the Karousades Camp Ground, who said there was work in the north of the island. Your best chance was with the Pirate. He took a little getting used to, but you were sure to get something...

Perfect start to a river cruise

A travel article about Amsterdam. BY COINCIDENCE, I flew to Amsterdam a week after I'd read Ian McEwan's novel of the same name. Amsterdam is a modern take on the theme of duelling and, in many ways, he couldn't have chosen a more appropriate place for his title. This is a city that duels with itself. I flew in at dawn, traditionally the moment to test your abilities at 10 paces. The countryside below was dark but blocks of orange light pulsed in the fields...

Lazy days of simply going with the flow

A travel article about a river cruise from Amsterdam to Basel. When Captain Plamen Veselinov invites me to join him on the bridge, I can at last put a question that’s been running through my mind for days. It’s about the locks. How does he manage to line up the vessel as it approaches? Is the ship guided in electronically? He returns my questions with a boyish smile that does a good deal to veil his many years on the river. Crunching his way through a heavy Bulgarian accent, he says, “No, it’s all in the eyes and the hands. It’s magic. Don’t tell David Copperfield. He would get very jealous...

Learn to love thy neighbour

A travel article about touring in New Zealand. ‘What’s the best thing about England?’ asked the Englishman next to me, quite suddenly, as we came out of a tunnel. ‘Well?’ I didn’t know. ‘Answer,’ he said, ‘is France.’ Here was the thing. My companion was a tennis pro, and these days he divided his time between London and Paris. Because you could. ‘Nothing big, which suits me: I am only moderately successful. Mainly rich ladies, if you know what I mean. Much prefer the French side, if you know what I mean.’ I think I knew what he meant...

Wine weekend in New Zealand

A travel article about the vineyards around Queenstown, New Zealand. GRANT Taylor holds a glass of pinot noir to his ear and says, "I listen to it." It's 11 in the morning. I steal a glance at my guide, Mike Stevens, an English ex-pat who's lived in Queenstown for nearly 20 years, and so is very nearly a local. He's brought me here and knows Taylor well. We are all quite sober...

Popular Science

Review of The Anatomist by Bill Hayes (Scribe, 2008). Bill Hayes wanted to write about Henry Gray, the author of Gray's Anatomy (1858), which at least until the television series connoted a standard text for anatomy students. Perhaps even more seductive for the biographer than the book's enduring appeal was a sense that Gray himself had partly disappeared from the historical record. Here was a scientist with the sort of brilliant young mind that seemed a specialty of the Victorian Age, and yet one who had not benefited from that period's compulsive documenting of the men of the moment and their deeds. Surely in that mystery there lay a narrative...

Mustering a wild bunch

A travel article about the South Dakota Governor's annual Buffalo Roundup Publication title: "Saddle up for South Dakota Governor Buffalo Roundup" “The crowd always cheers for the buffalo,” says Linda Daugaard, wife of the South Dakota governor. Up to now she and I have been talking about life in the state and her role, as its First Lady, in promoting youth literacy and other programs for families and children...

Chinese resort of epic proportions

A travel article about Haikou, southern China. Publication title: "Mission Hills Resort in Hainan, China" A giant spa, 10 golf courses and amazing hazards in the swimming pool – what more do you need at a resort, asks Kari Gislason If I kept to this line, I could make it through the passage between the iceberg and the castle, however narrow...

Follow the lighthouse route in Nova Scotia, Canada

Within half an hour of leaving Halifax Airport I managed to get myself lost. I noticed an exit sign for St Margaret’s Bay and, despite written instructions to the contrary, it sounded like the right way to go. But I was on the Lighthouse Route and on my way back to Halifax...

Discover Hong Kong restaurants and sights during a stay at Hotel ICON

DID you ever land at the old one?” our hostess asks. She sits across from me in the exit row, leaning a little forward to catch the view. Yes, I tell her, when I was a kid. I remember my mum worrying about it...

Explore Darwin and Litchfield National Park in the Northern Territory

The city as it now stands marks the fifth attempt at a settlement in the north. Fearful of Dutch territorial claims, the British were sure they had to establish a permanent base, and acted quickly to get one started. They had more than a little trouble getting one to work...

Visit Perth, Fremantle and Rottnest Island in Western Australia

A travel article about Perth, Freemantle, and Rottnest Island. In all probability, the water at Cottesloe Beach is no bluer than at all the other beaches of Australia. But early afternoon on the day I arrive, that blue seems total, or perhaps even on the edge of some other colour spectrum still being invented. The blue of the west...

North West Music Festival in Port Hedland, Western Australia

A travel article about a music festival in Port Hedland, Western Australia. At first, the crowd gathers in small groups, as though we’ve arrived at a picnic day. Girls in long skirts wearing bands in their hair call out across the wide lawn of the Turf Club, and run over to meet friends. They sit cross-legged in the sun, half swaying to the music, chatting. On stage, Thelma Plum, a girl with a voice from the 1960s, circles her lyrics with her hands. You wonder if she’s casting a spell, an appeal to the decade of revolutions...