Características del proceso de generación y difusión del conocimiento tecnológico en dos distritos industriales del sector textil-confecciones

El presente trabajo tiene como finalidad analizar las características de generación y difusión del conocimiento en distintos distritos industriales o aquéllos dedicados a la industria de la confección. Se analizan dos distritos textiles localizados en las ciudades de Pergamino y Mar del Plata (Provincia de Buenos Aires, Argentina). Ellos poseen una importante masa crítica de talleres de confección ligados a empresas con marca y diseño propio, cuya localización dentro o fuera de los límites de la ciudad varía en ambos casos. La metodología de investigación es cuantitativa y de tipo descriptivo. Los resultados muestran que Pergamino ha construido una base más sólida de conocimiento que Mar del Plata, proveniente de diferentes orígenes y sendero evolutivo. Ello incide, como un círculo virtuoso, sobre el conocimiento arquitectural de las empresas y sobre sus estrategias empresariales. Sin embargo, si bien en Pergamino existe un flujo constante de saberes tecnológicos externos que permiten crear una base más elevada de conocimiento de las firmas, que se difunde en el distrito, no se vislumbra el surgimiento de nuevas empresas locales con marca y diseño. De esta manera persiste un tipo de organización donde las firmas núcleo,en su mayoría externas al territorio, son las que traccionan el dinamismo de la trama. The aim of this paper is to analyze the patterns of knowledge creation and diffusion in two textile industrial districts located in the Argentinean cities of Mar del Plata and Pergamino. Both of them have an important number of supplier manufacturing firms linked to fashion- oriented clothing subcontractors, which are located inside or outside the geographical boundaries of each city. The methodology research is quantitative and descriptive. The results show that Pergamino has developed over time a stronger knowledge base than Mar del Plata, which could be related to different historical circumstances and evolutionary paths. This has an importante effect on firms’ architectural knowledge and strategies. Even though in Pergamino there is a permanent flow of external technological know how, which increase its knowledge base and let the firms belonging to the cluster to share it, there is not new fashion-oriented clothing local firms, prevailing a type of industrial district where the dynamism of the economy depends on the hub firms located outside the local context.  

Prospectiva y vigilancia tecnológica en la cadena fibra-textil-confecciones. Mapa tecnológico estratégico, nuevos escenarios para el futuro de la cadena productiva fibra textil confección de Colombia

Este libro es el resultado de una investigación exhaustiva sobre el impacto que el cambio tecnológico tiene sobre la cadena productiva de fibra-textil-confección. Los autores logran demostrar cómo esta cadena pasó de ser utilizadora de tecnología a generadora de nuevas tecnologías, asociadas a la nueva economía digital, como lo son la biotecnología, la microelectrónica, las tecnologías de la información y la comunicación y la nano tecnología. Por lo tanto, dada la importancia del sector textil confección para Colombia, los autores llaman la atención sobre las consecuencias de esta situación. En este sentido, identifican las llamadas brechas de competitividad y tecnología que separan a las empresas colombianas frente al estado del arte de quienes lideran el sector a nivel mundial. Para cerrar las brechas, los autores proponen una cartera de proyectos que son presentados en su contexto sistémico, es decir, que buscan generar impactos en toda la cadena de valor, y no solamente hacia un solo eslabón de la misma.

Fashionline: CSR case of a U.K. fashion retailer

This paper presents findings from a corporate social responsibility (CSR) case-study of a UK fashion retailer informed through 22 multi-level internal and 5 external semi-structured interviews. Our research explores the relationship between various stakeholders and their perceptions of CSR issues. Sixteen themes emerge. We find disparity in CSR perceptions at different levels of organization and in views of consumers. Our recommendations are that the UK fashion retailer needs to – better understand normative purpose of CSR and in doing so balance social and environmental factors more equally; engage more widely at an early stage with broader stakeholders (global supply chain; consumers, employees, local populations, regulators, industry players); and better communicate (at different levels internally) along with integrate (external policy makers and with industry) design and implementation of CSR strategies. The authors conclude a gap remains for better CSR frameworks for the UK fashion retailer.

Materials Education and Research in Art and Design: A New Role for Libraries - Session 3. RISD Faculty

Faculty from Rhode Island School of Design representing Interior Architecture, Industrial Design, and Textiles detail their thoughtful interactions with materials.

Ecommerce as internationalization strategy: an exploratory study based on premium fashion brazilian brands: case study of farfetch

As stated by Hoffmann and Coste-Manière (2012) “The web is a mass medium that contrast completely with the traditional codes of exclusivity associated with the luxury industry, and has long been simply rejected by the luxury industry for being an illegitimate distribution channel.” Meanwhile this market presents an incomparable pace of growth and is gradually changing the existing retailing business model and companies must be aware of this change and capable to adapt to it. The internet and cross-border sales already changed the competition throughout retailing and it will increase even more, so companies must be ready to face it. Internet has shown its great opportunity for all markets, although luxury/premium market is not yet taking the proper advantage of its potential, but the necessity to be an omnichannel business strategy is growing. This paper presents an exploratory research based on a case study of how premium fashion Brazilian brands are using Farfetch, e-commerce, as an entry market strategy and how this affects them. The research question of this study is: How is Farfetch helping on the internationalization of Brazilian premium fashion brands?, and in order to answer it was conducted an in-depth interview with the Brazilian head of business development of Farfetch, apart an extensive secondary data research. As expected the study found a list of trade-offs of using an e-commerce, luxury specialized, with a marketplace approach to the brands willing to internationalize. As stated by Altagamma and McKinsey (2015) study “[...] luxury brands have no choice but to embrace the digital era and become truly omnichannel. This will require them a radical rethinking of both their customer experience of their consumer engagement strategy.” Looking either from the Farfetch point of view, trying to understand why they offer this opportunity to the brands, or also from the brand side if this is a manageable approach. This study presents a contribution for both sides, trying to give tools to the brands on understanding the internationalization reasons and approach, as well as explaining Farfetch business model, and the advantages it can bring to them, at the same time of a general market trend analysis for Farfecth.

Compósito reforçado com sisal para aplicação na moda

The objective of this research is the fabrication of a composite reinforced with dyed sisal fiber and polyester matrix for application in the fields such as, fashion, clothing, interior textiles; fashion accessories are some of the examples. For the fabrication of the composite, the sisal fibers were subjected to processes such as: chemical treatment with sodium hydroxide (NaOH) in the removal of impurities; bleaching for removing the yellowish color of the natural fiber and dyeing with direct dyes to confer the colors blue, green and orange. The search for new technologies ecologically correct has become a major concern in recent decades. Studies show that composite polymer reinforced by natural fibers is suitable for a large number of applications, and its use is advantageous in terms of economic and ecological. The dyed fibers were cut to a length of 30 mm, is used in the confection of webs. For this purpose, a web preparer by immersion, developed in the Laboratory of Chemical Textile of UFRN. The composite sheets measuring 300 x 300 x3 mm were molded by compression, with unsaturated orthophthalic polyester as matrix, and the samples in sizes 150 x 25 x 3 mm were cut with the aid of a laser machine, to be subjected to traction and flexion. The mechanical properties of traction and flexion in three points were performed in the Laboratory of metal and mechanical tests of Materials Engineering of UFRN. The resulting samples from the tests were evaluated in scanning electron microscope (SEM) at CTGas RN. On the basis of the analysis of the results from the mechanical tests, it was observed that the composite had good mechanical behavior, both in traction as in flexion. Furthermore, it was observed that in the water absorption test, the samples had a different percentage among themselves, this occurred due to the variation of density found in the fibre webs. The images of the SEM showed the failures from the manufacturing process and the adhesion of fibre/matrix. When the samples were prepared with the dyed fibers to be applied in fashion, the results were positive, and it can be concluded that the main objective of this work was achieved

The correlation between thermal comfort in buildings and fashion products

This article is about thermal comfort in the wearable product. The research correlates fashion and architecture, in so far as it elects the brise soleil - an architectural element capable of regulating temperature and ventilation inside buildings - as a study referential, in trying to transpose and adapt its mechanisms to the wearable apparel.

Implications of the Termination of the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) for Latin America and the Caribbean

Available [in Spanish] at: http://www.cepal.org/cgi-bin/getProd.asp?xml=/publicaciones/xml/0/23120/P23120.xml&xsl=/comercio/tpl/p9f.xsl&base=/tpl/top-bottom.xslt

Research on policies and institutions to support small and medium scale enterprise in the Caribbean: Trinidad adn Tobago report

The Government of Trinidad and Tobago continues to provide support to SMEs in order to enhance their international competitiveness. The increasing effects of globalization and the reality of several trade agreements require that local businesses attain and maintain a level of competitiveness which ensures their continued survival and growth. This report examines in detail the policy environment within which these enterprises operate. It also examines the role of the key implementing agencies such as the BDC and NEDCO for government’s policy on the sector and also the role of the respective line ministries. These organizations strive to deliver value added technical, financial and export promotion services to its clients on a subsidised basis. The services offered reflect five key business areas such as financing, training, technical assistance, trade assistance, business re-engineering, project management and export promotion. In the case of the BDC its services target six sectors: food and beverage, metal processing, leisure marine, including yachting, information and communication technology/electronics, printing and packaging and entertainment. These said sectors are identified by the government, on the basis of a study which was done by TIDCO, for the promotion of a cluster development strategy. In the case of NEDCO it targets the following sectors: art and craft, food and beverages, fashion and fashion accessories, culture and ecotourism, bed and breakfast operations, indigenous entertainment and light manufacturing.

Grafismos no projeto Botuáfrica: um diálogo intercultural

This article aims to present the Botuafrica Project and graphism generated by the stencil printing process. We will address the issue of valuing African-Brazilian aesthetics by producing symbols created by the participants of the project and fashion as a vehicle for social inclusion in the context of Botucatu Municipality of state of São Paulo. The study proposes a reflection on the work of professionals that contributed on practices of technical and concept development in order to promote the creation of local fashion and production. This research will verify the implications of act of drawing, printing and wearing the textiles designed by the participants of the project. Botucatu Institute collected and archived photos and drawings during the project between years 2010 and 2012 and provided this material for this research.

The Ultraviolet Protection Factor of Naturally-pigmented Cotton

Textile Technology: The sun-blocking properties of a textile are enhanced when a dye, pigment, delustrant, or ultraviolet absorber finish is present that absorbs ultraviolet radiation and blocks its transmission through a fabric to the skin. For this reason, dyed fabrics provide better sun protection than bleached fabrics. Since naturally-colored cottons contain pigments that produce shades ranging from light green to tan and brown, it seemed reasonable to postulate that they would provide better sun protection than conventional bleached cotton, and that natural pigments might prove more durable to laundering and light exposure than dyes, but there is no published research on the ultraviolet transmission values for naturally-pigmented cottons. The purpose of this study was to determine the ultraviolet protection (UPF) values of naturally-pigmented cotton in three shades (green, tan, and brown), and the effect of light exposure and laundering on the sun-blocking properties of naturally-pigmented cotton. Naturally-pigmented cotton specimens were exposed to xenon light and accelerated laundering, ultraviolet transmission values measured, and UPF values calculated following light exposure and laundering. The naturally-pigmented cottons exhibited significantly higher UPF values than conventional cotton (bleached or unbleached). Although xenon light exposure and laundering caused some fading, the UPF values of naturally-pigmented cotton continue to be sufficiently high so that all three shades continue to provide good sun protection after the equivalent of 5 home launderings and 80 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists fading units (AFUs) of xenon light exposure.

Constructed Fashion: The Catwalk System as an Architectural Project

Teniendo en cuenta que no hay nada que se escape de la moda 1, y extendiendonos más allá de esta manida discusión sobre intersecciones formales, esta investigación propone la pasarela como un lugar real de mediación entre moda y arquitectura. Asumiendo esta condición, la pasarela encarna nuevos modos de producción apropiándose de su espacio y estructura, y convierténdose en una máquina capaz de generar múltiples y más bien infinitos significados. La moda es sin duda un proyecto creativo, que ha venido utilizando la pasarela como un marco para la reordenación de su narrativa visual, renovándose asi mismo como fenómeno social. Este proyecto de investigación plantea, que contrariamente las tipologías actuales de las pasarelas no nos facilitan la comprensión de una colección – que suele ser el objetivo principal. Presentan en cambio un entorno en el que se acoplan diferentes formatos visuales, -con varias capas-, conviéndolo en una compleja construcción y provocando nunerosas fricciones con el espacio-tiempo-acción durante el proceso de creación de otros territorios. Partiendo de la idea de la pasarela como un sistema, en el que sus numerosas variables pueden producir diversas combinaciones, esta investigación plantea la hipótesis por la cual un nuevo sistema de pasarela se estaría formando enteramente con capas de información. Este escenario nos conduciría a la inmersión final de la moda en los tejidos de la virtualidad. Si bien el debate sobre la relevancia de los desfiles de moda se ha vuelto más evidente hoy en día, esta investigación especula con la posibilidad del pensamiento arquitectónico y como este puede introducir metodologías de análisis en el marco de estos desfiles de moda, proponiendo una lectura de la pasarela como un sistema de procedimientos específicos inherente a los proyectos/procesos de la arquitectura. Este enfoque enlaza ambas prácticas en un territorio común donde el espacio, el diseño, el comportamiento, el movimiento, y los cuerpos son ordenados/organizados en la creación de estas nuevas posibilidades visuales, y donde las interacciones activan la generación de la novedad y los mensajes. PALABRAS CLAVES moda, sistema, virtual, información, arquitectura Considering that there is nothing left untouched by fashion2, and going beyond the already exhausted discussion about formal intersections, this research introduces the catwalk as the real arena of mediation between fashion and architecture. By assuming this condition, the catwalk embodies new modes of production that appropriates its space and turns it into a machine for generating multiple if not infinite meanings. Fashion, as a creative project, has utilized the catwalk as a frame for rearranging its visual narrative and renewing itself as social phenomena. This research disputes, however, that the current typologies of catwalks do not facilitate the understanding of the collection – as its primary goal - but, instead, present an environment composed of multi-layered visual formats, becoming a complex construct that collides space-time-action in the creation of other territories. Departing from the analysis of the catwalk as a system and how its many variables can produce diverse combinations, this research presents the hypothesis that a new system is being formed entirely built out of information. Such scenario indicates fashion´s final immersion into the fabrics of virtuality. While the discussion about the relevance of fashion shows has become more evident today, this research serves as an introductory speculation on how architectural thinking can introduce methodologies of analysis within the framework of the fashion shows, by proposing a reading of the catwalk as a system through specific procedures that are inherent to architectural projects. Such approach intertwines both practices into a common territory where space, design, behaviour, movement, and bodies are organized for the creation of visual possibilities, and where interactions are triggered in the making of novelty and messages. KEYWORDS fashion, system, virtual, information, architectural

Slow fashion and sustainability in Spain: How can local manufacturing improve sustainability and how do consumers respond?

"Slow Fashion" attempts to offset the demand for fast fashion and mass production (Fletcher, 2007). Consumers' response to sustainability-based practices is a limited discourse and studies for slow fashion concept are scarce. This study thus aims to enlighten the subject of how slow fashion concept could improve local economies and how Spanish consumers respond to such initiatives. This paper is based on an exploratory qualitative research for which focus group interviews including three group discussions with Spanish consumers were held. The data was examined by constant comparison analysis to present consumer insights. Moreover, a case study was conducted with a Spanish apparel brand. Saint Brissant was chosen since it manufactures in Spain to (i) ensure its products? high quality and (ii) to empower Spanish economy. This paper provides empirical insights. Even though local manufacturing was perceived to have a higher quality, Spanish consumers? behavioural intentions of using local brands were not high.Self-interest, mainly price and design, was recorded as the most influential purchase criteria. Furthermore, Saint Brissant case demonstrated that local manufacturing could boost local economies by creating workforce. However, governmental subsidies should be rearranged and consumers? perceptions should be improved to support local manufacturers in Spain.