Contribution to an efficient transmission of information to the textile fashion consumer and the influence in sustainable attitudes

The concepts involved in sustainable textile fashion, demanding good knowledge about raw materials, processes, end use properties and circuits amongst others, are able to determine the way the textile product is designed and the behavior of the consumer, regarding life style and buying decisions. The textile product`s life integrates raw materials, their processing, distribution, use by the consumer and destination of the product after useful lifetime, this is, his complete life cycle. It is very important to recognize the power of the consumer to influence parameters related to sustainability, namely when he decides how, when and why he buys and afterwards by the attitudes taken during and after use. The conscious act of consumption involves ethical, ecological and technical knowledge in which the concern is overall lifecycle of the fashion product and not exclusively aesthetic and symbolic values strongly related with its ephemeral nature. The present work proposes the classification of textile products by means of an innovative label aiming to establish a rating related to the Life of Fashion Products, by using parameters considered with especial impact in lifecycle, as textile fibers, processing conditions, generated wastes, commercialization circuits, durability and cleaning procedures. This label for sustainable fashion products aims to assist the stakeholders with informed attitudes and correct decisions in order to promote the objectives of sustainable fashion near designers, consumers and industrial experts.

Dispersão larval radial pós-alimentar em Lucilia cuprina (Diptera, Calliphoridae): profundidade, peso e distância de enterramento para pupação

Blowflies utilize discrete and ephemeral sites for breeding and larval nutrition. After the exhaustion of food, the larvae begin dispersing to search for sites to pupate or for additional food source, process referred as postfeeding larval dispersal. Some aspects of this process were investigated in Lucilia cuprina (Wiedemann, 1830), utilizing a circular arena to permit the radial dispersion of larvae from the food source in the center. To determine the localization of each pupa, the arena was split into 72 equal sectors from the center. For each pupa, distance from the center of arena, weight and depth were determined. Statistical tests were performed to verify the relation among weight, depth and distance of burying for pupation. It was verified that the larvae that disperse farthest are those with lowest weights. The majority of individuals reached the depth of burying for pupation between 7 and 18 cm. The study of this process of dispersion can be utilized in the estimation of postmortem interval (PMI) for human corpses in medico-criminal investigations.

Ochlerotatus albifasciatus in rain pools of Buenos Aires: seasonal dynamics and relation to environmental variables

The immature stages of Ochlerotatus albifasciatus develop in temporary pools. The present study aims at evaluating the seasonal dynamics of the aquatic stages of this mosquito, also analyzing the relationship among their presence and breeding success to some relevant climatic and environmental variables in the ephemeral rain pools of an urban park. Nineteen cohorts of O. albifasciatus that developed synchronously after rain events were recorded in all seasons. The proportions of mosquito-positive pools were significantly higher during the fall-winter period than in the spring-summer months (p < 0.001). The presence of this mosquito species was positively related to the amount of rain (p < 0.001), whereas negatively correlated to air temperature (p < 0.05) within a 5.2 to 29.7ºC range. The distribution of the number of cohorts per pool throughout the year was grouped (variance/mean: 3.96), indicating that these habitats were not equally suitable as breeding sites. The immature stages of O. albifasciatus were detected in pools belonging to all of the categories of surface area, depth, duration, vegetation cover, and insolation. However, the proportion of pools where immature mosquitoes were detected was positively and significantly related to surface, depth, duration, and vegetation cover. On the other hand, the proportion of mosquito-positive pools was higher at an intermediate insolation degree. Our results suggest that although preimaginal stages were present in all seasons, high temperatures may be unfavorable to larval development, and substrate vegetation may regulate water temperature. The positive relationship between the proportion of mosquito-positive pools and pool size and duration might reflect a strategy of O. albifasciatus to accomplish immature development.

Development of a multistrain bacterial bioreporter platform for the monitoring of hydrocarbon contaminants in marine environments.

Petroleum hydrocarbons are common contaminants in marine and freshwater aquatic habitats, often occurring as a result of oil spillage. Rapid and reliable on-site tools for measuring the bioavailable hydrocarbon fractions, i.e., those that are most likely to cause toxic effects or are available for biodegradation, would assist in assessing potential ecological damage and following the progress of cleanup operations. Here we examined the suitability of a set of different rapid bioassays (2-3 h) using bacteria expressing the LuxAB luciferase to measure the presence of short-chain linear alkanes, monoaromatic and polyaromatic compounds, biphenyls, and DNA-damaging agents in seawater after a laboratory-scale oil spill. Five independent spills of 20 mL of NSO-1 crude oil with 2 L of seawater (North Sea or Mediterranean Sea) were carried out in 5 L glass flasks for periods of up to 10 days. Bioassays readily detected ephemeral concentrations of short-chain alkanes and BTEX (i.e., benzene, toluene, ethylbenzene, and xylenes) in the seawater within minutes to hours after the spill, increasing to a maximum of up to 80 muM within 6-24 h, after which they decreased to low or undetectable levels. The strong decrease in short-chain alkanes and BTEX may have been due to their volatilization or biodegradation, which was supported by changes in the microbial community composition. Two- and three-ring PAHs appeared in the seawater phase after 24 h with a concentration up to 1 muM naphthalene equivalents and remained above 0.5 muM for the duration of the experiment. DNA-damage-sensitive bioreporters did not produce any signal with the oil-spilled aqueous-phase samples, whereas bioassays for (hydroxy)biphenyls showed occasional responses. Chemical analysis for alkanes and PAHs in contaminated seawater samples supported the bioassay data, but did not show the typical ephemeral peaks observed with the bioassays. We conclude that bacterium-based bioassays can be a suitable alternative for rapid on-site quantitative measurement of hydrocarbons in seawater.

Discursos de gènere, nacionalisme i respostes col•lectives de les dones a Catalunya i Irlanda

El projecte realitzat se situa en el marc de la història contemporània, i s’ha centrat en primer lloc, en l’anàlisi, des d’una perspectiva comparativa, del desenvolupament dels discursos de gènere a Catalunya durant la Dictadura Franquista i a la Irlanda postcolonial. Mitjançant l’anàlisi del discurs, s’han estudiat els models de feminitat imposats pel Franquisme i les seves bases ideològiques com són el valors catòlics i l’antindividualisme. En el cas irlandès, s’ha analitzat com, a través de determinades institucions gestionades per l’Església Catòlica, es controlaven aquelles dones que es desviaven del model de gènere que propugnava l’Estat Irlandès, molt similar al proposat pel Franquisme i també basat en els catolicisme. De la mateix manera, s’ha estudiat com el feminisme Català i irlandès dels anys 1970 i 1980 van contrarestar aquests models de gènere imposats, a través de l’anàlisi d’un conjunt d’expressions culturals produïdes per ambdós moviments feministes. La perspectiva comparativa del projecte ha permès: El coneixement dels mecanismes culturals de repressió de les dones així com la seva institucionalització. Revelant els paral•lelismes pel que fa a les polítiques de gènere entre els dos casos estudiats malgrat diferències significatives entre els dos contextos (Catalunya es troba sota una dictadura, Irlanda és un Estat democràtic). La importància de l’agència de les dones i les seves diverses estratègies de resistència, especialment a través d’expressions culturals més efímeres o considerades frívoles que, malgrat el poc reconeixement que han obtingut, són molt eficaces en la deconstrucció de discursos de gènere repressius envers les dones. Ha posat de manifest, també, la importància de l’experiència i les pràctiques personals i íntimes com a pràctiques de resistència. Així mateix, ha visibilitzat les dinàmiques pròpies de moviments feministes.

Appartenances en fête: entre l'ordinaire et le spectaculaire

Résumé Alors que les pratiques religieuses régulières diminuent et que les groupes religieux majoritaires perdent des membres formellement enregistrés, une évènementisation de l'appartenance religieuse peut être observée depuis environ deux décennies. Dans un premier exemple, l'auteure montre que le réseau transnational de la confrérie soufie des Mourides resserre les liens entre adeptes dans un contexte migratoire qui tend à fragiliser les relations sociales. La confrérie y fait face à travers une spectacularisation de la pratique religieuse, occupant l'espace public à Harlem ou, dans une moindre mesure, à Paris. Le second exemple traite du pèlerinage aux Saintes et Saints d'Afrique dans la ville valaisanne de Saint Maurice. Ce dernier fut inventé par l'Église catholique suisse afin d'attirer des migrants africains, mais aussi afin de redynamiser une pratique religieuse ordinaire en perte de vitesse. L'évènement a lieu en même temps que le pèlerinage de Namugongo en Ouganda, réunissant plus d'un demi-million de personnes. Les communautés évènementielles ainsi créées sont-elles durables ou plutôt liquides ? Abstract While regular religious practice is decreasing and the major religious groups are losing formally registered members, a 'spectacularization' of religious belonging can be observed over the last two decades. The author presents two examples to support this argument. In the first, the transnational network of the Murids, a Sufi brotherhood, has tried to reinforce the relations between its members, which become fragile during migration. The brotherhood occupies a public space in Harlem, and, to a lesser extent, in Paris, in a spectacularization of religious belonging, in order to remain attractive to migrants. The second example deals with the pilgrimage dedicated to African Saints in the Swiss town of Saint Maurice. This event was invented by the missionary service of the Swiss Catholic Church in order to attract African migrants, but also in order to make ordinary religious practice more appealing. The event takes place at the same time as the Ugandan pilgrimage of Namugongo, which assembles more than half a million people. However, are these 'event communities' sustainable or ephemeral?

Estudo da dispersão larval radial pós-alimentar em Chrysomya megacephala (Fabricius) (Diptera, Calliphoridae)

Blowflies utilize discrete and ephemeral sites for breeding and larval nutrition. After the exhaustion of food, the larvae begin dispersing to search for sites to pupate or to additional food source, process referred as postfeeding larval dispersal. Some of the most important aspects of this process were investigated in Chrysomya megacephala, utilizing a circular arena to permit the radial dispersion of larvae from the center. To determinate the localization of each pupa, the arena was split in 72 equal sectors from the center. For each pupa, distance from the center of arena, weight and depth were determined. Statistical tests were performed to verify the relation among weight, depth and distance of burying for pupation. It was verified that the larvae that disperse farther are those with higher weights. The majority of individuals reached the depth of burying for pupation between 7 and 18 cm. The study of this process of dispersion can be utilized in the estimation of postmortem interval (PMI) for human corpses in medico-criminal investigations.

Study of the combined radial post-feeding dispersion of the blowflies Chrysomya megacephala (Fabricius) and C. albiceps (Wiedemann) (Diptera, Calliphoridae)

Blowflies use discrete and ephemeral substrates to feed their larvae. After they run out of food, the larvae begin to disperse in order to find adequate places for pupation or additional food sources, a process named post-feeding larval dispersion. Some important aspects of this process were studied in a circular arena allowing the combined radial post-feeding dispersion from the center of the arena of C. albiceps and C. megacephala larvae. To determine the location of each pupa, the arena was divided in 72 identical sections starting from the center. The distance from the center, the depth and weight of each pupa were evaluated. Statistical tests were done to verify the relation between weight, depth and distance for pupation. From the total an average of 976 larvae released (488 for each species) were collected considering both experiments 456 C. megacephala pupae and 488 of C. albiceps. This demonstrates that C. albiceps probably preyed on 32 C. megacephala larvae during post-feeding dispersion. The study of this dispersion process can be used to estimate the postmortem interval (PMI) of human cadavers in legal medicine.

Influence of photoperiod on body weight and depth of burrowing in larvae of Chrysomya megacephala (Fabricius) (Diptera, Calliphoridae) and implications for forensic entomology

Blowflies use discrete, ephemeral breeding sites for larval nutrition. After exhaustion of the food supply, the larvae disperse in search of sites to pupate or to seek other sources of food in a process known as post-feeding larval dispersal. In this study, some of the most important aspects of this process were investigated in larvae of the blowflies Chrysomya megacephala exposed to a variety of light: dark (LD) cycles (0:0 h, 12:12 h and 24:0 h) and incubated in tubes covered with vermiculite. For each pupa, the body weight and depth of burrowing were determined. Statistical tests were used to examine the relationship of depth of burrowing and body weight to photoperiod at which burrowing occurred. The study of burial behavior in post-feeding larval dispersing can be useful for estimating the postmortem interval (PMI) of human corpses in forensic medicine.

Nutritional ecology of blowflies (Diptera, Calliphoridae): estimates of critical larval weight for pupation on two different

Under natural environmental conditions, blowflies utilize discrete and ephemeral feeding resources such as decaying carcasses. Competition for food on such feeding substrates is usually very severe, and only the individuals that are capable of attaining the critical larval weight for pupation will be able to survive. This critical weight is hitherto unknown for several blowfly species; therefore, the current work is aimed at obtaining such a critical value for four blowfly species of the genera Chrysomya and Lucilia, deploying two types of feeding substrate, namely, artificial diet and macerated bovine meat. On the whole, the critical weights ranged from 30 to 35 mg. The lowest larval weight which permitted pupation was 30.0 mg for Chrysomya megacephala reared on macerated bovine meat. This species was also the best adapted to pupation at low larval weights in relation to the maximum larval weight for males. Regarding the pupation of females, the best-adapted individual was a C. albiceps specimen exhibiting a critical weight that was equal to 39.20 % of the maximum value obtained. Concerning all the species and diet types, the female individuals exhibited the lowest critical weights that produced viable pupae, probably representing an evolutionary strategy that favoured the survival of females, responsible for the egg formation, contributing to the establishment of future generations. Regarding the loss (in percentage) of adult biomass in relation to the third instar larvae, the females of C. megacephala lost less weight than males in both feeding substrates. On the other hand, such a loss of weight occurred in males of C. albiceps and L. cuprina.

Sequencing primate genomes: what have we learned?

We summarize the progress in whole-genome sequencing and analyses of primate genomes. These emerging genome datasets have broadened our understanding of primate genome evolution revealing unexpected and complex patterns of evolutionary change. This includes the characterization of genome structural variation, episodic changes in the repeat landscape, differences in gene expression, new models regarding speciation, and the ephemeral nature of the recombination landscape. The functional characterization of genomic differences important in primate speciation and adaptation remains a significant challenge. Limited access to biological materials, the lack of detailed phenotypic data and the endangered status of many critical primate species have significantly attenuated research into the genetic basis of primate evolution. Next-generation sequencing technologies promise to greatly expand the number of available primate genome sequences; however, such draft genome sequences will likely miss critical genetic differences within complex genomic regions unless dedicated efforts are put forward to understand the full spectrum of genetic variation.

Action publique concertée et gestion des sports de nature : une ethnographie participative au Conseil général du Bas-Rhin

En France, la décentralisation et la territorialisation de l'action publique ont fait des sports de nature un objet d'action publique légitime en donnant naissance à de nouveaux outils de management public dédiés à la concertation et à la planification des usages de la nature. Nés de l'article 52 de la Loi sur le sport modifiée en 2000, la Commission Départementale des Espaces, Sites et Itinéraires relatifs aux sports de nature (CDESI) et le Plan Départemental des Espaces Sites et Itinéraires relatifs aux sports de nature (PDESI) sont des outils de concertation territoriale dédiés à la gestion publique des sports de nature au niveau départemental. Un enjeu de ce travail tient à l'appréhension des transformations de l'action publique en s'attachant à l'étude des dispositifs de concertation sur les sports de nature. Un deuxième enjeu de ce travail s'attache à mettre en évidence les effets de la concertation en analysant les interactions et les différents modes d'engagements des acteurs au cours de la « chose publique en train de se faire » (Cefaï, 2002). Les acteurs s'engagent non seulement dans la concertation comprise comme une activité sociale faite d'interactions, mais ils s'engagent également dans la concertation en tant que processus d'action publique. Aussi, un autre enjeu de ce travail est d'appréhender les effets de la concertation par une analyse processuelle des engagements (Fillieule, 2004) des acteurs et des organisations. En mobilisant les outils conceptuels de la sociologie interactionniste, de la sociologie pragmatique, ainsi que de la sociologie structuraliste, l'analyse des situations interactionnelles a notamment permis d'identifier les procédures de cadrage et les techniques dramaturgiques mises en oeuvre par les interactants, ainsi que les répertoires argumentatifs mobilisés par ces acteurs pendant l « 'épreuve » de la concertation. Les confrontations des points de vue et les justifications des prises de positions des acteurs peuvent faire évoluer la configuration initiale des jeux d'acteurs même si, pour certains, ces changements ne restent parfois qu'éphémères. Les organisations s'engagent dans la concertation en fonction de la revendication d'une légitimité qui est à comprendre comme une forme militantisme institutionnel s'articulant autour de la valorisation d'une expertise militante, environnementale, institutionnelle, ou encore de leur statut de partenaire institutionnel. In France, decentralization and territorialization of public action have made outdoor sports become an object of public policies justifiable by giving birth to new tools of public management dedicated to the public consultation, the dialogue, and the planning of the uses of the landscapes. Indeed, born of article 52 of the Law on sport modified in 2000, the Departmental committee for Spaces, Sites and Routes relative to natural sports ( CDESI) and the Departmental Plan of Spaces Sites and Routes relative to natural sports ( PDESI) are governance tools dedicated to the public management of outdoor sports for counties. A challenge of this work is to understand the changes of public policy by focusing on the study of mechanisms for consultation on outdoor sports. A second item of this work is to highlight the effects of cooperation by focusing on the analysis of interactions and actor's commitments during the "public thing in the making" (Cefaï, 2002). Actors commit themselves not only in the dialogue included as a social activity made by interactions, but they also take part to the dialogue included as a process of public action. Also, another issue of this work is to understand the effects of consultation by a processual approach of individual commitments (Fillieule, 2004) of actors and organizations. Using the conceptual tools of symbolic interactionism, pragmatic sociology, and structuralist sociology, the analysis of interactional situations has highlighted the framing work and procedures implemented by the interactants, as well as the dramaturgical techniques and argumentative directories which, they mobilize during the "test" of the consultation. Confrontation of viewpoints and justifications of interactants' positions can evolve from their initial configuration sets, even if for some of them these changes are sometimes ephemeral. Organizations involve themselves according to demands of legitimacy which, are to understand as a shape institutional militancy articulating around the valuation of a militant, environmental, institutional expertise, or still around their status of institutional partner.

Construction mechanisms and thermal evolution of upper crustal intrusions : the Saint-Jean-du-Doigt bimodal intrusion (Brittany, France)

Understanding the emplacement and growth of intrusive bodies in terms of mechanism, duration, ther¬mal evolution and rates are fundamental aspects of crustal evolution. Recent studies show that many plutons grow in several Ma by in situ accretion of discrete magma pulses, which constitute small-scale magmatic reservoirs. The residence time of magmas, and hence their capacities to interact and differentiate, are con¬trolled by the local thermal environment. The latter is highly dependant on 1) the emplacement depth, 2) the magmas and country rock composition, 3) the country rock thermal conductivity, 4) the rate of magma injection and 5) the geometry of the intrusion. In shallow level plutons, where magmas solidify quickly, evi¬dence for magma mixing and/or differentiation processes is considered by many authors to be inherited from deeper levels. This work shows however that in-situ differentiation and magma interactions occurred within basaltic and felsic sills at shallow depth (0.3 GPa) in the St-Jean-du-Doigt (SJDD) bimodal intrusion, France. This intrusion emplaced ca. 347 Ma ago (IDTIMS U/Pb on zircon) in the Precambrian crust of the Armori- can massif and preserves remarkable sill-like emplacement processes of bimodal mafic-felsic magmas. Field evidence coupled to high precision zircon U-Pb dating document progressive thermal maturation within the incrementally built ioppolith. Early m-thick mafic sills (eastern part) form the roof of the intrusion and are homogeneous and fine-grained with planar contacts with neighboring felsic sills; within a minimal 0.8 Ma time span, the system gets warmer (western part). Sills are emplaced by under-accretion under the old east¬ern part, interact and mingle. A striking feature of this younger, warmer part is in-situ differentiation of the mafic sills in the top 40 cm of the layer, which suggests liquids survival in the shallow crust. Rheological and thermal models were performed in order to determine the parameters required to allow this observed in- situ differentiation-accumulation processes. Strong constraints such as total emplacement durations (ca. 0.8 Ma, TIMS date) and pluton thickness (1.5 Km, gravity model) allow a quantitative estimation of the various parameters required (injection rates, incubation time,...). The results show that in-situ differentiation may be achieved in less than 10 years at such shallow depth, provided that: (1) The differentiating sills are injected beneath consolidated, yet still warm basalt sills, which act as low conductive insulating screens (eastern part formation in the SJDD intrusion). The latter are emplaced in a very short time (800 years) at high injection rate (0.5 m/y) in order to create a "hot zone" in the shallow crust (incubation time). This implies that nearly 1/3 of the pluton (400m) is emplaced by a subsequent and sustained magmatic activity occurring on a short time scale at the very beginning of the system. (2) Once incubation time is achieved, the calculations show that a small hot zone is created at the base of the sill pile, where new injections stay above their solidus T°C and may interact and differentiate. Extraction of differentiated residual liquids might eventually take place and mix with newly injected magma as documented in active syn-emplacement shear-zones within the "warm" part of the pluton. (3) Finally, the model show that in order to maintain a permanent hot zone at shallow level, injection rate must be of 0.03 m/y with injection of 5m thick basaltic sills eveiy 130yr, imply¬ing formation of a 15 km thick pluton. As this thickness is in contradiction with the one calculated for SJDD (1.5 Km) and exceed much the average thickness observed for many shallow level plutons, I infer that there is no permanent hot zone (or magma chambers) at such shallow level. I rather propose formation of small, ephemeral (10-15yr) reservoirs, which represent only small portions of the final size of the pluton. Thermal calculations show that, in the case of SJDD, 5m thick basaltic sills emplaced every 1500 y, allow formation of such ephemeral reservoirs. The latter are formed by several sills, which are in a mushy state and may interact and differentiate during a short time.The mineralogical, chemical and isotopic data presented in this study suggest a signature intermediate be¬tween E-MORB- and arc-like for the SJDD mafic sills and feeder dykes. The mantle source involved produced hydrated magmas and may be astenosphere modified by "arc-type" components, probably related to a sub¬ducting slab. Combined fluid mobile/immobile trace elements and Sr-Nd isotopes suggest that such subduc¬tion components are mainly fluids derived from altered oceanic crust with minor effect from the subducted sediments. Close match between the SJDD compositions and BABB may point to a continental back-arc setting with little crustal contamination. If so, the SjDD intrusion is a major witness of an extensional tectonic regime during the Early-Carboniferous, linked to the subduction of the Rheno-Hercynian Ocean beneath the Variscan terranes. Also of interest is the unusual association of cogenetic (same isotopic compositions) K-feldspar A- type granite and albite-granite. A-type granites may form by magma mixing between the mafic magma and crustal melts. Alternatively, they might derive from the melting of a biotite-bearing quartz-feldspathic crustal protolith triggered by early mafic injections at low crustal levels. Albite-granite may form by plagioclase cu¬mulate remelting issued from A-type magma differentiation.

Coneixement i gestió del dol patològic per part dels infermers/es a l'atenció primària de Girona

Per entendre l’experiència d’una pèrdua i dur a terme una intervenció amb una valoració holística del pacient amb dol, és útil conèixer que aquesta pèrdua és present a la vida humana i que tota persona és susceptible a viure-la. Cada pas que fem en el nostre camí perdem coses, des de persones a un objecte significatiu, fins a les coses més efímeres com és la joventut, els somnis o les idees que ens permeten l’enfrontament a les dures “realitats de la vida”L’objectiu d’aquest estudi és valorar el coneixement del concepte de dol, dol patològic i dóna a conèixer quin és el procés de dol a partir de la teoria de les etapes d’ Elisabet Kübler-Ross, Parkes i Worden com els pares de les tasques d’aquest procés. Per altra banda pretén, donar a conèixer la detecció d’un dol per així evitar la cronificació d’aquest i que el pacient pugui dur a terme un bonacompanyament del dolLa metodologia es realitzarà a partir d’un estudi d’anàlisis qualitatiu i quantitatiu, descriptiu i bivariant en els professionals d’infermeria de les àrees bàsiques de salut de la ciutat de Girona: Girona 1(CAP Santa Clara), Girona 2 (CAP Can Gibert del Pla), Girona 3 (CAP de Montilivi) i Girona 4(CAP Taialà)Per l’anàlisi estadística descriptiva i bivariant s’utilitzarà el programa SPSS v20 per l’anàlisi quantitativa i el programa N-Vivo 10 per l’anàlisi qualitativa. I per l’obtenció dels resultats es realitzarà una anàlisis descriptiva bivariant. Els resultats obtinguts en aquest estudi ens ajudaran a detectar necessitats relacionades amb la formació i l’aprenentatge dels professionals de l’atenció primària i la manca de recursos en relació al dol

Developing Repositories for Collecting 21st Century Ephemera

Presentation at Open Repositories 2014, Helsinki, Finland, June 9-13, 2014