Japanese costume / by Helen C. Gunsaulus, Assistant Curator of Japanese Ethnology.

no.12(1923)

Spectacle and the one-man band : technology, performing bodies, and imaginary spaces

L’étiquette « homme-orchestre » est apposée à une grande variété de musiciens qui se distinguent en jouant seuls une performance qui est normalement interprétée par plusieurs personnes. La diversité qu’a pu prendre au cours du temps cette forme n’est pas prise en compte par la culture populaire qui propose une image relativement constante de cette figure tel que vue dans les films Mary Poppins (1964) de Walt Disney et One-man Band (2005) de Pixar. Il s’agit d’un seul performeur vêtu d’un costume coloré avec une grosse caisse sur le dos, des cymbales entre les jambes, une guitare ou un autre instrument à cordes dans les mains et un petit instrument à vent fixé assez près de sa bouche pour lui permettre d’alterner le chant et le jeu instrumental. Cette thèse propose une analyse de l’homme-orchestre qui va au-delà de sa simple production musicale en situant le phénomène comme un genre spectaculaire qui transmet un contenu symbolique à travers une relation tripartite entre performance divertissante, spectateur et image. Le contenu symbolique est lié aux idées caractéristiques du Siècle des lumières tels que la liberté, l’individu et une relation avec la technologie. Il est aussi incarné simultanément par les performeurs et par la représentation de l’homme-orchestre dans l’imaginaire collectif. En même temps, chaque performance sert à réaffirmer l’image de l’homme-orchestre, une image qui par répétitions est devenue un lieu commun de la culture, existant au-delà d’un seul performeur ou d’une seule performance. L’aspect visuel de l’homme-orchestre joue un rôle important dans ce processus par une utilisation inattendue du corps, une relation causale entre corps, technologie et production musicale ainsi que par l’utilisation de vêtements colorés et d’accessoires non musicaux tels des marionnettes, des feux d’artifice ou des animaux vivants. Ces éléments spectaculaires divertissent les spectateurs, ce qui se traduit, entre autres, par un gain financier pour le performeur. Le divertissement a une fonction phatique qui facilite la communication du contenu symbolique.

Carolingian culture in the North Sea world: rethinking the cultural dynamics of personal adornment in Viking age England

Boosted by a proliferation in metal-detected finds, categories of personal adornment now constitute a vital archaeological source for interpreting Viking-age cultural interaction in the North Sea region. Previous research in England has explored the potential of this metalwork in relation to the formation of ‘Anglo-Scandinavian’ identity, but without due consideration of a wider spectrum of cultural influences. This article redresses the balance by shifting attention to twenty-eight belt fittings derived from richly embellished baldrics, equestrian equipment, and waist belts manufactured on the Frankish continent during the period of Carolingian hegemony in the later eighth and ninth centuries ad. The metalwork is classified and then contextualized in order to track import mechanisms and to assess the impact of Carolingian culture on the northern peripheries of the Frankish empire. The main conclusion is that the adoption, adaptation, and strategic manipulation of Carolingian/northern Frankish identity formed an embedded component of cultural dynamics in Viking-age England, scrutiny of which sheds new light on patterns of interconnectivity linking peoples of the North Sea world.

“There’s something very familiar about all this”: generic play and performance in the Back to the Future trilogy (Robert Zemeckis, 1985, 1989, 1990)

The Back to the Future Trilogy incorporates several different generic elements, including aspects of the fifties teen movie, science fiction, comedy and the western. These different modes playfully intertwine with each other creating a complex world of repetitions, echoes and modulations. This essay seeks to interrogate the construction of generic elements and the play between them through a close analysis of a repeated performance. Genre is signalled through various strategies employed within the construction of mise-en-scène, a significant portion of this, as I would like to argue, is transmitted through performance. The material detail of a performance – incorporating gesture, movement, voice, and even surrounding elements such as costume – as well as the way it its presented within a film is key to the establishment, invocation and coherence of genre. Furthermore, attention to the complexity of performance details, particularly in the manner in which they reverberate across texts, demonstrates the intricacy of genre and its inherent mutability. The Back to the Future trilogy represents a specific interest in the flexibility of genre. Within each film, and especially across all three, aspects of various genres are interlaced through both visual and narrative detail, thus constructing a dense layer of references both within and without the texts. To explore this patterning in more detail I will interrogate the contribution of performance to generic play through close analysis of Thomas F. Wilson’s performance of Biff/Griff/Burford Tannen and his central encounter with Marty McFly (Michael J. Fox) in each film. These moments take place in a fifties diner, a 1980s retro diner and a saloon respectively, each space contributing the similarities and differences in each repetition. Close attention to Wilson’s performance of each related character, which contains both modulations and repetitions used specifically to place each film’s central generic theme, demonstrates how embedded the play between genres and their flexibility is within the trilogy.

Dentistry teachers and the burnout syndrome

The Burnout Syndrome is considered a psychosocial problem to which teachers are routinely exposed. This study was conducted to estimate the prevalence of burnout in Dentistry teachers and its relation to relevant socio-demographic variables. The participants were 70 teachers from the undergraduate Dentistry Course, Faculty of Dentistry of Araraquara – UNESP. Oldenburg Burnout Inventory (OLBI) was used. The prevalence of burnout was estimated. In order to compare performed. Mean age of participants was 46.0 ± 6.1 and teaching experience was 19.6±7.6 years. The prevalence of burnout was 17.1%. Low mean scores for Exhaustion (2.11±0.61) and Disengagement (1.73±0.50) were observed. There reported taking medication due to work (p=0.008) and for those who have thought about quit teaching (p=0.001). There scores according to the habit of taking medication, the experience as a teacher and gender

A identidade, o costume e o direito da decisão: um estudo sobre o uso e o desuso do sobrenome do marido

Pós-graduação em Educação Sexual - FCLAR

Design and Crime

L'articolo è disponibile anche tradotto in italiano. Cfr. Hal Foster, Design & Crime, Milano, Postmedia Books, 2003, pp. 23-32.

Effetti idrodinamici prodotti dal costume tecnico sul nuotatore

L’introduzione dei costumi tecnici nel nuoto ha portato miglioramenti senza precedenti sulla prestazione. I miglioramenti nella velocità di nuoto sono stati attribuiti dalla letteratura a riduzioni nelle resistenze idrodinamiche sul nuotatore. Tuttavia, gli effetti specifici dovuti all’utilizzo di questo tipo di costume non sono ancora completamente chiariti. Questa tesi aveva l’obiettivo di indagare gli effetti del costume tecnico sul galleggiamento statico, sulla posizione del corpo e sulla resistenza idrodinamica in avanzamento passivo. Nello studio preliminare sono stati misurati la spinta idrostatica, i volumi polmonari dinamici e la circonferenza toracica di 9 nuotatori che indossavano un costume tradizionale o un costume tecnico in gomma sintetica. Indossare il costume tecnico ha determinato una riduzione significativa del galleggiamento statico, e la compressione toracica causata da questo tipo di costume potrebbe avere una relazione con la significativa riduzione dei volumi polmonari misurati quando il nuotatore indossa questo tipo di costume. Un successiva analisi prevedeva il traino passivo di 14 nuotatori che mantenevano la miglior posizione idrodinamica di scivolamento indossando un costume tradizionale, tecnico in tessuto e tecnico in gomma. La posizione del corpo in avanzamento è stata misurata con un’analisi cinematica. La resistenza passiva indossando i costumi tecnici è risultata significativamente minore per entrambi i costumi tecnici rispetto alla prova con costume tradizionale. L’analisi condotta attraverso modelli di regressione lineari ha mostrato che una parte della riduzione della resistenza passiva era legata a proprietà intrinseche dei costumi tecnici. Tuttavia, anche l’area di impatto frontale determinata dall’inclinazione del tronco del soggetto in scivolamento e l’inclinazione degli arti inferiori hanno mostrato una marcata influenza sulla resistenza idrodinamica passiva. Pertanto, la riduzione di resistenza idrodinamica durante lo scivolamento passivo effettuato con costume tecnico da nuoto è attribuibile, oltre all’effetto del materiale di composizione del costume, ad una variazione della posizione del corpo del nuotatore.

The Modernity of la Mode: a History of the French Revolution Through the Lens of Fashion, Culture, and Identity

In my thesis, I explore the cultural history of the French Revolution and its relation to the modern era which ensued. Many historians have studied the French Revolution as it relates to culture, the rise of modernity, and fashion. I combine the unique histories of all three of these aspects to reach an understanding of the history of the French Revolution and fashion’s role in bringing about change. In the majority of literature of costume history, discussion of fashion surrounds its reflective properties. Many historians conclude fashion as a reflection of the broader cultural shifts that occurred during the Revolution. I, on the other hand, propose that fashion is an active force in bringing out cultural change during this time. In exploring fashion as a historical motivator, I examine the aesthetic world of fashion from 1740 to 1815, the modern system of cultural dissemination of fashion through particular historical heroes, and the rise of “taste” and its relation to modern identity. Through aesthetics, culture, and identity, I argue that fashion is a decisive force of culture in that it creates a visual world through which ideas form and communicate.

Post-Empire Imaginaries? Anglophone Literature, History, and the Demise of Empires

Empires as political entities may be a thing of the past, but as a concept, empire is alive and kicking. From heritage tourism and costume dramas to theories of the imperial idea(l): empire sells. Post-Empire Imaginaries? Anglophone Literature, History, and the Demise of Empires presents innovative scholarship on the lives and legacies of empires in diverse media such as literature, film, advertising, and the visual arts. Though rooted in real space and history, the post-empire and its twin, the post-imperial, emerge as ungraspable ideational constructs. The volume convincingly establishes empire as welcoming resistance and affirmation, introducing post-empire imaginaries as figurations that connect the archives and repertoires of colonial nostalgia, postcolonial critique, post-imperial dreaming.

Annie Smith Peck in climbing costume

Photographer's logo on mat: Gray. Lake Linden, Michigan

Annie Smith Peck in climbing costume

Photographer's logo on mat: Gray. Lake Linden, Michigan. On verso: Miss Peck in climbing costume (Daybook, image #17)

Voyage pittoresque des isles de Sicile, de Malte et de Lipari, où l'on traite des antiquités qui s'y trouvent encore : des principaux phénomènes que la nature y offre; des costume des habitans, & de quelques usages /

Includes index, v. 4, p. [118]-124.

400 outstanding women of the world and costumology of their time /

Mode of access: Internet.