Uv-vis Spectra As An Alternative To The Lowry Method For Quantify Hair Damage Induced By Surfactants.

It is well known that long term use of shampoo causes damage to human hair. Although the Lowry method has been widely used to quantify hair damage, it is unsuitable to determine this in the presence of some surfactants and there is no other method proposed in literature. In this work, a different method is used to investigate and compare the hair damage induced by four types of surfactants (including three commercial-grade surfactants) and water. Hair samples were immersed in aqueous solution of surfactants under conditions that resemble a shower (38 °C, constant shaking). These solutions become colored with time of contact with hair and its UV-vis spectra were recorded. For comparison, the amount of extracted proteins from hair by sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and by water were estimated by the Lowry method. Additionally, non-pigmented vs. pigmented hair and also sepia melanin were used to understand the washing solution color and their spectra. The results presented herein show that hair degradation is mostly caused by the extraction of proteins, cuticle fragments and melanin granules from hair fiber. It was found that the intensity of solution color varies with the charge density of the surfactants. Furthermore, the intensity of solution color can be correlated to the amount of proteins quantified by the Lowry method as well as to the degree of hair damage. UV-vis spectrum of hair washing solutions is a simple and straightforward method to quantify and compare hair damages induced by different commercial surfactants.

Evaluation Of The Cytotoxicity And Phototoxicity Of Caryocar Brasiliense Supercritical Carbon Dioxide Extract.

Caryocar brasiliense Camb (Pequi) is a typical Brazilian Cerrado fruit tree. Its fruit is used as a vitamin source for culinary purposes and as a source of oil for the manufacture of cosmetics. C. brasiliense supercritical CO2 extracts exhibit antimicrobial activity against the bacteria Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus aureus and also possess antioxidant activity. This study was designed to evaluate the in vitro cytotoxicity and phototoxicity of the supercritical CO2 extract obtained from the leaves of this species. In vitro cytotoxicity and phototoxicity of C. brasiliense supercritical CO2 extracts were assessed using a tetrazolium-based colorimetric assay (XTT) and Neutral Red methods. We found that the C. brasiliense (Pequi) extract obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction did not present cytotoxic and phototoxic hazards. This finding suggests that the extract may be useful for the development of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical products.

Cutinases fúngicas: propriedades e aplicações industriais

Cutinases (EC 3.1.1.74) are also known as cutin hidrolases. These enzymes share catalytic properties of lipases and esterases, presenting a unique feature of being active regardless the presence of an oil-water interface, making them interesting as biocatalysts in several industrial processes involving hydrolysis, esterification and trans-esterification reactions. They are also active in different reaction media, allowing their applications in different areas such as food industry, cosmetics, fine chemicals, pesticide and insecticide degradation, treatment and laundry of fiber textiles and polymer chemistry. The present review describes the characteristics, potential applications and new perspectives for these enzymes.

Contaminação de produtos de higiene e cosméticos por n-nitrosaminas

N-nitrosamines are carcinogenic compounds that have been found during the last three decades in a variety of consumer products, including cosmetic and personal care products, and their raw materials. These compounds are formed from amine precursors and nitrosating agents present in the formulations. This paper reviews the formation and occurrence of N-nitrosamines in cosmetic products, as well as presents considerations about analytical, toxicological and regulatory aspects.

Os nanomateriais e a questão ambiental

The increasing use of nanomaterials in several products in different areas such as electronics, cosmetics, food and drugs has attracted the attention of the scientific community due to unknown properties of these materials, such as the life cycle and the interaction with receptor organisms once they reach the environment. In this context, the present work shows an updated scenario of nanomaterials applications, characterization methods and toxicity evaluation, also addressing important aspects related to the development and application of nanotechnology under the environmental point of view.

Desenvolvimento, produção e caracterização de nanocristais de fármacos pouco solúveis

Poorly soluble drugs have low bioavailability, representing a major challenge for the pharmaceutical industry. Processing drugs into the nanosized range changes their physical properties, and these are being used in pharmaceutics to develop innovative formulations known as Nanocrystals. Use of nanocrystals to overcome the problem of low bioavailability, and their production using different techniques such as microfluidization or high pressure homogenization, was reviewed in this paper. Examples of drugs, cosmetics and nutraceutical ingredients were also discussed. These technologies are well established in the pharmaceutical industry and are approved by the Food and Drug Administration.

Guia para a determinação da estabilidade de produtos químicos

Companies worldwide are reviewing their working process to avoid waste, become aligned with environmental management standards and to fulfill specifications defined for national and international regulations. In this context, it is important that Brazilian Chemical companies have a specific stability guide for their products. The main purpose of this work is to present a stability guide for chemical products based on the existing guides of the Pharmaceutical and Cosmetics segments. Furthermore, this work proposes to offer an additional period of shelf life for chemical products, provided they meet certain prerequisites.

Nutritional reserves of Vochysiaceae seeds: chemical diversity and potential economic uses

Contents of proteins, carbohydrates and oil of seeds of 57 individuals of Vochysiaceae, involving one species of Callisthene, six of Qualea, one of Salvertia and eight of Vochysia were determined. The main nutritional reserves of Vochysiaceae seeds are proteins (20% in average) and oils (21. 6%). Mean of carbohydrate contents was 5. 8%. Callisthene showed the lowest protein content (16. 9%), while Q. cordata was the species with the highest content (30% in average). The contents of ethanol soluble carbohydrates were much higher than those of water soluble carbohydrates. Oil contents lay above 20% for most species (30. 4% in V. pygmaea and V. pyramidalis seeds). The predominant fatty acids are lauric (Q. grandiflora), oleic (Qualea and Salvertia) or acids with longer carbon chains (Salvertia and a group of Vochysia species). The distribution of Vochysiaceae fatty acids suggests for seeds of some species an exploitation as food sources (predominance of oleic acid), for other species an alternative to cocoa butter (high contents or predominance of stearic acid) or the production of lubricants, surfactants, detergents, cosmetics and plastic (predominance of acids with C20 or C22 chains) or biodiesel (predominance of monounsaturated acids). The possibility of exploitation of Vochysiaceae products in a cultivation regimen and in extractive reserves is discussed.

Genetic diversity of turmeric germplasm (Curcuma longa; Zingiberaceae) identified by microsatellite markers

Turmeric (Curcuma longa) is a triploid, vegetatively propagated crop introduced early during the colonization of Brazil. Turmeric rhizomes are ground into a powder used as a natural dye in the food industry, although recent research suggests a greater potential for the development of drugs and cosmetics. In Brazil, little is known about the genetic variability available for crop improvement. We examined the genetic diversity among turmeric accessions from a Brazilian germplasm collection comprising 39 accessions collected from the States of Goias, Mato Grosso do Sul, Minas Gerais, Sao Paulo, and Para. For comparison, 18 additional genotypes were analyzed, including samples from India and Puerto Rico. Total DNA was extracted from lyophilized leaf tissue and genetic analysis was performed using 17 microsatellite markers (single-sequence repeats). Shannon-Weiner indexes ranged from 0.017 (Minas Gerais) to 0.316 (Sao Paulo). Analyses of molecular variance (AMOVA) demonstrated major differences between countries (63.4%) and that most of the genetic diversity in Brazil is found within states (75.3%). Genotypes from Sao Paulo State were the most divergent and potentially useful for crop improvement. Structure analysis indicated two main groups of accessions. These results can help target future collecting efforts for introduction of new materials needed to develop more productive and better adapted cultivars.

Chemoenzymatic synthesis: a strategy to obtain xylitol monoesters

BACKGROUND: Fatty acid sugar esters are used as non-ionic surfactants in cosmetics, foodstuffs and pharmaceuticals. In particular, monoesters of xylitol have attracted industrial interest due to their outstanding biological activities. In this work, xylitol monoesters were obtained by chemoenzymatic synthesis, in which, first, xylitol was made soluble in organic solvent by chemo-protecting reaction, followed by enzymatic esterification reaction using different acyl donors. A commercial immobilized Candida antartica lipase was used as catalyst, and reactions with pure xylitol were carried out to generate data for comparison. RESULTS: t-BuOH was found to be the most suitable solvent to carry out esterification reactions with both pure and protected xylitol. The highest yields were obtained for reactions carried out with pure xylitol, but in this case by-products, such as di- and tri-esters isomers were formed, which required a multi-step purification process. For the systems with protected xylitol, conversions of 86%, 58% and 24% were achieved using oleic, lauric and butyric acids, respectively. The structures of the monoesters were confirmed by (13)C- and (1)H-NMR and microanalysis. CONCLUSION: The chemoenzymatic synthesis of xylitol monoesters avoided laborious downstream processing when compared with reactions performed with pure xylitol. Monoesters production from protected xylitol was shown to be a practical, economical, and clean route for this process, allowing a simple separation, because there are no other products formed besides xylitol monoesters and residual xylitol. (C) 2009 Society of Chemical Industry

Chlorogenic Acid UVA-UVB Photostability

Chlorogenic acid is a natural potent antioxidant. It can be used in cosmetics formulations, but for this purpose its photochemical stability should be determined to ensure that the compound will not be degraded after UV radiation exposure. To evaluate this possibility, the concentration of a chlorogenic acid solution was determined by HPLC before and after UVA and UVB irradiation. The results indicate that chlorogenic acid is not degraded under UVA or UVB irradiation.

Rubus rosaefolius Extract as a Natural Preservative Candidate in Topical Formulations

Even though the synthetic preservatives may offer a high antimicrobial efficacy, they are commonly related to adverse reactions and regarded as having potentially harmful effects caused by chronic consumption. The development of natural preservatives provides a way of reducing the amount of synthetic preservatives normally used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In addition, these agents have less toxic effects and represent a possible natural and safer alternative of the preservatives. The purpose of this research was to evaluate the Rubus rosaefolius Smith extract efficiency as a natural preservative in base formulations. Of the extract, 0.2% (w/w) was assayed for its effectiveness of antimicrobial protection in two different base formulations (emulsion and gel). The microbial challenge test was performed following the standard procedures proposed by The United States Pharmacopoeia 33nd, European Pharmacopoeia 6th, Japanese Pharmacopoeia 15th, and the Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association using standardized microorganisms. The results demonstrated that R. rosaefolius extract at the studied concentration reduced the bacterial inocula, satisfying the criterion in all formulations, even though it was not able to present an effective preservative behavior against fungi. Thus, the investigation of new natural substances with preservative properties that could be applied in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products is relevant due to the possibility of substituting or decreasing the concentration of synthetic preservatives, providing a way for the development of safer formulas for the use of consumers.

Influence of the Photostabilizer in the Photoprotective Effects of a Formulation Containing UV-Filters and Vitamin A

Vitamin A palmitate has been used in cosmetics; however, studies report that this substance shows photoreactivity that can lead to loss of safety and efficacy. On the other hand, photostabilizers have been used to increase sunscreen photostability and consequently their safety and effectiveness. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on the photoprotective effects of a cosmetic formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate. The formulation containing UV-filters was supplemented with vitamin A palmitate and the photostabilizers diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN), bumetrizole and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC). Hairless mice were treated daily by topical applications and irradiated (UVA/B). Erythema index, transepidermal water loss, histological/histometric analysis and number of sunburn cells (SBC) were evaluated. The results showed that all formulations protected from UV-induced enhancement of erythema and SBC but there was no difference among them. The formulation with no stabilizers reduced viable epidermis thickness due to atrophy induced by UV radiation. Thus, it can be concluded that the presence of photostabilizers influenced the effects of formulations containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate, which could be seen by histological and histometric analysis. Furthermore, the formulations containing the stabilizers DEHN and BTDC showed better protective effects on hairless mice skin.

A HPLC method to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing UV-filters and vitamins A and E

This paper reports a simple and reliable HPLC method to evaluate the influence of two currently available photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing combined UV-filters and vitamins A and E. Vitamins and UV-filters, widely encountered in products of daily use have to be routinely evaluated since photoinstability can lead to reductions in their efficacy and safety. UV-irradiated formulation samples were submitted to a procedure that included a reliable, precise and specific HPLC method employing a C18 column and detection at 325 and 235 nm. Methanol, isopropanol and water were the mobile phases in gradient elution. The method precision was between 0.28 and 5.07. The photostabilizers studied [diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN) and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC)], influenced the stability of octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) associated with vitamins A and E. BTDC was considered the best photostabilizer to vitamins and OMC when the UV-filters were combined with both vitamins A and E. (C) 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitamins

Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract (SCE) is used in cosmetics since it can act in oxidative stress and improve skin conditions. This study investigated dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing SCE and/or vitamins A, C and E. The formulation studied was supplemented or not (F1: vehicle) with vitamins A, C and E esters (F2) or with SCE (F3) or with the combination of vitamins and SCE (F4). Formulations were patch tested on back skin of volunteers. For efficacy studies, formulations were applied on volunteers and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture (SM), skin microrelief (SMR) and free radicals protection were analysed after 3 h, 15 and 30 days of application. Volunteers were also asked about efficacy perception. It was observed that F4 provoked a slight erythema in one volunteer. All formulations enhanced forearm SM. Only F3 and F4 presented long term effects on SMR and showed higher texture values; F3 had the highest brightness values. Our results suggest that vitamins and SCE showed effects in SM and SMR. Only formulations containing SC had long term effects in the improvement of SMR. Thus, these kinds of evaluations are very important in cosmetics development to evaluate the best risk and benefit correlation. (C) 2008 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.