93 resultados para Coastlines


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Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Washington, 2014

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The use of unmanned marine robotic vehicles in bathymetric surveys is discussed. This paper presents recent results in autonomous bathymetric missions with the ROAZ autonomous surface vehicle. In particular, robotic surface vehicles such as ROAZ provide an efficient tool in risk assessment for shallow water environments and water land interface zones as the near surf zone in marine coast. ROAZ is an ocean capable catamaran for distinct oceanographic missions, and with the goal to fill the gap were other hydrographic surveys vehicles/systems are not compiled to operate, like very shallow water rivers and marine coastline surf zones. Therefore, the use of robotic systems for risk assessment is validated through several missions performed either in river scenario (in a very shallow water conditions) and in marine coastlines.

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Department of Marine Geology & Geophysics, Cochin University of Science & Technology

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This paper gives an overview of the project Changing Coastlines: data assimilation for morphodynamic prediction and predictability. This project is investigating whether data assimilation could be used to improve coastal morphodynamic modeling. The concept of data assimilation is described, and the benefits that data assimilation could bring to coastal morphodynamic modeling are discussed. Application of data assimilation in a simple 1D morphodynamic model is presented. This shows that data assimilation can be used to improve the current state of the model bathymetry, and to tune the model parameter. We now intend to implement these ideas in a 2D morphodynamic model, for two study sites. The logistics of this are considered, including model design and implementation, and data requirement issues. We envisage that this work could provide a means for maintaining up-to-date information on coastal bathymetry, without the need for costly survey campaigns. This would be useful for a range of coastal management issues, including coastal flood forecasting.

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In principle the global mean geostrophic surface circulation of the ocean can be diagnosed by subtracting a geoid from a mean sea surface (MSS). However, because the resulting mean dynamic topography (MDT) is approximately two orders of magnitude smaller than either of the constituent surfaces, and because the geoid is most naturally expressed as a spectral model while the MSS is a gridded product, in practice complications arise. Two algorithms for combining MSS and satellite-derived geoid data to determine the ocean’s mean dynamic topography (MDT) are considered in this paper: a pointwise approach, whereby the gridded geoid height field is subtracted from the gridded MSS; and a spectral approach, whereby the spherical harmonic coefficients of the geoid are subtracted from an equivalent set of coefficients representing the MSS, from which the gridded MDT is then obtained. The essential difference is that with the latter approach the MSS is truncated, a form of filtering, just as with the geoid. This ensures that errors of omission resulting from the truncation of the geoid, which are small in comparison to the geoid but large in comparison to the MDT, are matched, and therefore negated, by similar errors of omission in the MSS. The MDTs produced by both methods require additional filtering. However, the spectral MDT requires less filtering to remove noise, and therefore it retains more oceanographic information than its pointwise equivalent. The spectral method also results in a more realistic MDT at coastlines. 1. Introduction An important challenge in oceanography is the accurate determination of the ocean’s time-mean dynamic topography (MDT). If this can be achieved with sufficient accuracy for combination with the timedependent component of the dynamic topography, obtainable from altimetric data, then the resulting sum (i.e., the absolute dynamic topography) will give an accurate picture of surface geostrophic currents and ocean transports.

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The building fabrics of seven churches situated either on Romney Marsh or the marshland fringe were examined briefly. These revealed important differences in the relative abundance of the two principal building stones. Ragstones from the Hythe Formation occurred more frequently in the northeast, while sandstones from the Ashdown 'Beds' were more common in the west. In the Romney Marsh area, both stones were quarried mainly from their adjoining coastlines, with, up to the thirteenth century, opportunist collection of beach boulders generally preceding the exploitation or hewn stone. Other building stones, possible distribution routes and impacts of the quarrying upon coastline development were also discussed.

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In the earth sciences, data are commonly cast on complex grids in order to model irregular domains such as coastlines, or to evenly distribute grid points over the globe. It is common for a scientist to wish to re-cast such data onto a grid that is more amenable to manipulation, visualization, or comparison with other data sources. The complexity of the grids presents a significant technical difficulty to the regridding process. In particular, the regridding of complex grids may suffer from severe performance issues, in the worst case scaling with the product of the sizes of the source and destination grids. We present a mechanism for the fast regridding of such datasets, based upon the construction of a spatial index that allows fast searching of the source grid. We discover that the most efficient spatial index under test (in terms of memory usage and query time) is a simple look-up table. A kd-tree implementation was found to be faster to build and to give similar query performance at the expense of a larger memory footprint. Using our approach, we demonstrate that regridding of complex data may proceed at speeds sufficient to permit regridding on-the-fly in an interactive visualization application, or in a Web Map Service implementation. For large datasets with complex grids the new mechanism is shown to significantly outperform algorithms used in many scientific visualization packages.

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Emissions of exhaust gases and particles from oceangoing ships are a significant and growing contributor to the total emissions from the transportation sector. We present an assessment of the contribution of gaseous and particulate emissions from oceangoing shipping to anthropogenic emissions and air quality. We also assess the degradation in human health and climate change created by these emissions. Regulating ship emissions requires comprehensive knowledge of current fuel consumption and emissions, understanding of their impact on atmospheric composition and climate, and projections of potential future evolutions and mitigation options. Nearly 70% of ship emissions occur within 400 km of coastlines, causing air quality problems through the formation of ground-level ozone, sulphur emissions and particulate matter in coastal areas and harbours with heavy traffic. Furthermore, ozone and aerosol precursor emissions as well as their derivative species from ships may be transported in the atmosphere over several hundreds of kilometres, and thus contribute to air quality problems further inland, even though they are emitted at sea. In addition, ship emissions impact climate. Recent studies indicate that the cooling due to altered clouds far outweighs the warming effects from greenhouse gases such as carbon dioxide (CO2) or ozone from shipping, overall causing a negative present-day radiative forcing (RF). Current efforts to reduce sulphur and other pollutants from shipping may modify this. However, given the short residence time of sulphate compared to CO2, the climate response from sulphate is of the order decades while that of CO2 is centuries. The climatic trade-off between positive and negative radiative forcing is still a topic of scientific research, but from what is currently known, a simple cancellation of global mean forcing components is potentially inappropriate and a more comprehensive assessment metric is required. The CO2 equivalent emissions using the global temperature change potential (GTP) metric indicate that after 50 years the net global mean effect of current emissions is close to zero through cancellation of warming by CO2 and cooling by sulphate and nitrogen oxides.

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The sea ice edge presents a region of many feedback processes between the atmosphere, ocean, and sea ice (Maslowski et al.). Here the authors focus on the impact of on-ice atmospheric and oceanic flows at the sea ice edge. Mesoscale jet formation due to the Coriolis effect is well understood over sharp changes in surface roughness such as coastlines (Hunt et al.). This sharp change in surface roughness is experienced by the atmosphere and ocean encountering a compacted sea ice edge. This paper presents a study of a dynamic sea ice edge responding to prescribed atmospheric and oceanic jet formation. An idealized analytical model of sea ice drift is developed and compared to a sea ice climate model [the Los Alamos Sea Ice Model (CICE)] run on an idealized domain. The response of the CICE model to jet formation is tested at various resolutions. It is found that the formation of atmospheric jets at the sea ice edge increases the wind speed parallel to the sea ice edge and results in the formation of a sea ice drift jet in agreement with an observed sea ice drift jet (Johannessen et al.). The increase in ice drift speed is dependent upon the angle between the ice edge and wind and results in up to a 40% increase in ice transport along the sea ice edge. The possibility of oceanic jet formation and the resultant effect upon the sea ice edge is less conclusive. Observations and climate model data of the polar oceans have been analyzed to show areas of likely atmospheric jet formation, with the Fram Strait being of particular interest.

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The South Asian monsoon is one of the most significant manifestations of the seasonal cycle. It directly impacts nearly one third of the world’s population and also has substantial global influence. Using 27-year integrations of a high-resolution atmospheric general circulation model (Met Office Unified Model), we study changes in South Asian monsoon precipitation and circulation when horizontal resolution is increased from approximately 200 to 40 km at the equator (N96 to N512, 1.9 to 0.35◦). The high resolution, integration length and ensemble size of the dataset make this the most extensive dataset used to evaluate the resolution sensitivity of the South Asian monsoon to date. We find a consistent pattern of JJAS precipitation and circulation changes as resolution increases, which include a slight increase in precipitation over peninsular India, changes in Indian and Indochinese orographic rain bands, increasing wind speeds in the Somali Jet, increasing precipitation over the Maritime Continent islands and decreasing precipitation over the northern Maritime Continent seas. To diagnose which resolution related processes cause these changes we compare them to published sensitivity experiments that change regional orography and coastlines. Our analysis indicates that improved resolution of the East African Highlands results in the improved representation of the Somali Jet and further suggests that improved resolution of orography over Indochina and the Maritime Continent results in more precipitation over the Maritime Continent islands at the expense of reduced precipitation further north. We also evaluate the resolution sensitivity of monsoon depressions and lows, which contribute more precipitation over northeast India at higher resolution. We conclude that while increasing resolution at these scales does not solve the many monsoon biases that exist in GCMs, it has a number of small, beneficial impacts.

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The population dynamics of the infaunal bivalve Soletellina alba was investigated at three sites situated within close proximity to the mouth of the Hopkins River estuary. The initial study design was planned to examine the importance of winter flooding to the persistence of this bivalve mollusc within the Hopkins estuary, since mass mortalities have been observed during previous years coincident with periods of winter flooding. Unfortunately, the climatic conditions experienced during this study were atypical compared to the long-term average, so detailed sampling was limited to two, unanticipated, non-flood years rather than two, highly anticipated, flood years. This hampered my ability to conduct complete tests of the importance of winter flooding. Patterns of river discharge and the frequency and duration of mouth opening and closing differed greatly from that expected. Unexpectedly, periods of mouth closure were not always associated with periods of minimal river discharge; low salinities were another unexpected result during an extended period of mouth closure during 1998. As expected, salinities varied considerably with increasing water depth when the estuary mouth was open. Mouth closure lead to salinities becoming more uniform between water depths but hypoxic and anoxic conditions became evident via stratification in the water column at 1 m below the Australian Height Datum (AHD). Other than trends associated with increased water depth, significant variation was not evident between measurements of salinity taken from three sites within close proximity of the estuary mouth (approximately 500 m), or during changes in tide. The most pertinent anomaly was the absence of winter flooding. The distribution and abundance of juvenile and adult S. alba was variable across all Dates, Sites and Channel elevations (i.e. water depths) sampled during this study. An experimental test comparing the recruitment of juveniles at different channel elevations and in sediments of varying particle size was conducted during an exceptionally successful period of recruitment during 1999. The results of these tests showed that recruitment was greatest at the shallowest channel elevation used, and there was little evidence that sediment particle size influenced recruitment. In contrast to 1999, recruitment during 1997 or 1998 was extremely poor. Growth rates were monitored using tagged individuals held in caged and uncaged plots, which revealed that growth was highly variable among individuals, but not between Sites. These tests also revealed that growth was negligible during the colder, winter months, and that the fastest growing individuals were capable of growing 0.2 mm/day. Mixed results were obtained for tests of potential cage artifacts and the influence of handling. Caging and differing amounts of handling did not appear to influence growth, but there was evidence that cages and handling influenced bivalve condition and number of mortalities. These direct tests appeared to be the most appropriate method for determining growth rates of this species, since attempts to analyse length-frequency data were made difficult by the apparent convergence of cohorts, and shell aging is difficult due to the thin, fragile nature of the shell. As expected, mass mortalities were observed during the flood of 1996, but not during the two non-flood years of 1997 and 1998. There were, however, some considerable declines in abundances at some channel elevations during the two non-flood years. However, these declines were attributable to the complete disappearance of individuals, rather than the sudden presence of numerous, recently dead individuals that typify observed declines during winter flooding. The complete disappearance of individuals suggest that S. alba may be capable of post-settlement emigration, or that they were consumed by an unknown predator. Salinity tolerance tests showed that bivalves exposed to low salinities (≤6 ppt), exhibited poorer condition and took longer to re-burrow into sediments than those exposed to greater salinities (≥14 ppt), while death of bivalves exposed to salinities ≤1 ppt occurred after 8 days of exposure. These tests provide evidence that low salinities are probably the principal cause of mass mortalities during winter flooding, although the interaction between salinity, temperature and turbidity also deserve consideration. The results of this study indicate that certain aspects of winter flooding, especially salinity, are responsible for the mass mortalities of S. alba rather than the result of a short-lived life history. I hypothesise that the survival of very young juveniles (between 0.5 and 1 mm shell length) and rapid growth rates are important features of the life history of S. alba that explain its successful persistence within the Hopkins River estuary. The rapid rates of growth suggest that it may be possible for juveniles that survive winter flooding to grow, reach sexual maturity, and reproduce before the onset of the next flood event. Unfortunately, the increased survivorship of juveniles during periods of winter flooding was not demonstrated by this study because of the absence of winter flooding and also relatively poor recruitment. It is highly likely that this species is capable of completing it entire life cycle within the estuary since the absence of other nearby populations, together with periods of mouth closure, are likely to greatly limit the potential contribution made by larvae entering from the surrounding marine environment. This study has added considerably to our knowledge of how infauna cope with life in the intermittently closing estuaries that typify semi-arid coastlines in the Southern Hemisphere.

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Ostracoda able to tolerate significant fluctuations in salinity occur as fossils in latest Late Miocene and earliest Late Pliocene strata of the Nepean 1 borehole within the Port Phillip Basin. The main euryhaline species present are Osticythere baragwanathi (Chapman & Crespin), Leptocythere hartmanni (McKenzie), Xestoleberis cedunaensis Hartmann and Tanella gracilis Kingma. Euryhaline ostracods occur in both high diversity, high abundance fossil ostracod assemblages and in low diversity, high abundance  assemblages. These latest Late Miocene and earliest Late Pliocene fossil ostracod assemblages accumulated close to the maximum point of flooding during respective marine transgressions onto the northern Bass Strait hinterland. The presence of euryhaline Ostracoda in these assemblages  is reminiscent of ostracod occurrences associated with modern day SE Australian barrier coastlines. Euryhaline ostracods are not common in earlier Cenozoic sediments of SE Australia and Osticythere baragwanathi makes its first appearance in the latest Late Miocene beds of the Nepean 1 borehole. This latter occurrence is interpreted to reflect the initial phase of development for the modern SE Australian barrier coastline and in particular, the initial formation of Port Phillip Bay as a coastal geomorphological feature.

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New insights about nearshore dynamics came from studying the effects of regular storms in South Australia on drifting marine macrophytes, consequent wrack accumulation and associated fauna in beach surf zones across three different regions. This study examined whether the influence of storms may be more pronounced in sheltered coastal waters compared to more exposed coastlines where biota could have adaptations to persist in larger swell conditions. There were obvious regional differences for wrack species richness, abundances and assemblages that matched the attached floral subtidal landscape in each region. Consequently, invertebrates also differed amongst regions, which highlight the close affinity that some invertebrates have with drifting macrophytes. Fish were not so closely aligned to the regional patterns identified for wrack or invertebrates suggesting that many fish are using wrack accumulations as habitat but, being highly mobile, they may actively and constantly move into, out of and within these habitat features. Well-known beach-type models focused upon beach morphology may be more pertinent to the ecology of the surf zones offshore than previously thought, being the most consistent indicator of wrack accumulations and their fauna. This new evidence on the ecology of nearshore waters during storm versus calm weather in multiple regions and the subsequent influence on wrack-fauna associations in sandy-beach surf zones are important for future beach management, particularly when and where large wrack accumulations occur.

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On most developed coastlines, dunes backing ocean beaches constitute an urbanised landscape mosaic containing remnant pockets of small conservation areas. Urbanised beaches are also prime sites for domestic dogs, known to be environmentally harmful in many other settings. It is unknown, however, whether small, protected parcels of dune are adequate for biological conservation and whether dogs compromise their functional conservation objectives. Here we examine, for two small (2 km ocean boundary) reserves in Eastern Australia abutting an urban area, whether such small reserves can continue to function as effective conservation instruments on ocean beaches, using scavenger community composition and efficiency to assess ecosystem function. Two non-native species of canids—domestic dogs (Canis lupus familiaris) and red foxes (Vulpes vulpes)—were ubiquitous and numerous inside conservation areas, to the point of having become the most abundant vertebrate scavengers at the beach-dune interface, outcompeting native scavengers for wave-cast carrion. Dogs and foxes have effectively supplanted raptors, normally abundant on non-urban beaches in the region, and other avian scavengers, as the principal consumers of animal carcasses both inside the declared reserves and at the urban beach. Whilst the ecological threats posed by foxes are widely and intensively addressed in Australia in the form of fox-control programs, dog controls are less common and stringent. Our data emphasize, however, that managing domestic dogs may be required to the same extent in order to maintain key forms and functions in coastal reserves situated close to urban areas.

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Archaeology’s ability to generate long-term datasets of natural and human landscape change positions the discipline as an inter-disciplinary bridge between the social and natural sciences. Using a multi-proxy approach combining archaeological data with palaeoenvironmental indicators embedded in coastal sediments, we outline millennial timescales of lowland landscape evolution in the Society Islands. Geomorphic and cultural histories for four coastal zones on Mo‘orea are reconstructed based on stratigraphic records, sedimentology, pollen analysis, and radiocarbon determinations from mid- to late Holocene contexts. Prehuman records of the island’s flora and fauna are described utilizing landsnail, insect, and botanical data, providing a palaeo-backdrop for later anthropogenic change. Several environmental processes, including sea level change, island subsidence, and anthropogenic alterations, leading to changes in sedimentary budget have operated on Mo‘orea coastlines from c. 4600 to 200 BP. We document significant transformation of littoral and lowland zones which obscured earlier human activities and created significant changes in vegetation and other biota. Beginning as early as 440 BP (1416–1490 cal. ad), a major phase of sedimentary deposition commenced which can only be attributed to anthropogenic effects. At several sites, between 1.8 and 3.0 m of terrigenous sediments accumulated within a span of two to three centuries due to active slope erosion and deposition on the coastal flats. This phase correlates with the period of major inland expansion of Polynesian occupation and intensive agriculture on the island, indicated by the presence of charcoal throughout the sediments, including wood charcoal from several economically important tree species.