Innovation, interaction, and inclusion : heritage luxury brands in collusion with the consumer

Many luxury heritage brands operate on the misconception that heritage is interchangeable with history rather than representative of the emotional response they originally developed in their customer. This idea of heritage as static history inhibits innovation, prevents dynamic renewal and impedes their ability to redefine, strengthen and position their brand in current and emerging marketplaces. This paper examines a number of heritage luxury brands that have successfully identified the original emotional responses they developed in their customers and, through innovative approaches in design, marketing, branding and distribution evoke these responses in contemporary consumers. Using heritage and innovation hand-in-hand, these brands have continued to grow and develop a vision of heritage that incorporates both historical and contemporary ideas to meet emerging customer needs. While what constitutes a ‘luxury’ item is constantly challenged in this era of accessible luxury products, up-scaling and aspirational spending, this paper sees consumers’ emotional needs as the key element in defining the concept of luxury. These emotional qualities consistently remain relevant due to their ability to enhance a positive sense of identity for the brand user. Luxury is about the ‘experience’ not just the product providing the consumer with a sense of enhanced status or identity through invoked feelings of exclusivity, authenticity, quality, uniqueness and culture. This paper will analyse luxury heritage brands that have successfully combined these emotional values with those of their ‘heritage’ to create an aura of authenticity and nostalgia that appeals to contemporary consumers. Like luxury, the line where clothing becomes fashion is blurred in the contemporary fashion industry; however, consumer emotion again plays an important role. For example, clothing becomes ‘fashion’ for consumers when it affects their self perception rather than fulfilling basic functions of shelter and protection. Successful luxury heritage brands can enhance consumers’ sense of self by involving them in the ‘experience’ and ‘personality’ of the brand so they see it as a reflection of their own exclusiveness, authentic uniqueness, belonging and cultural value. Innovation is a valuable tool for heritage luxury brands to successfully generate these desired emotional responses and meet the evolving needs of contemporary consumers. While traditionally fashion has been a monologue from brand to consumer, new technology has given consumers a voice to engage brands in a conversation to express their evolving needs, ideas and feedback. As a result, in this consumer-empowered era of information sharing, this paper defines innovation as the ability of heritage luxury brands to develop new design and branding strategies in response to this consumer feedback while retaining the emotional core values of their heritage. This paper analyses how luxury heritage brands can effectively position themselves in the contemporary marketplace by separating heritage from history to incorporate innovative strategies that will appeal to consumer needs of today and tomorrow.

Innovation, interaction, and inclusion : heritage luxury brands in collusion with the consumer

Many luxury heritage brands operate on the misconception that heritage is interchangeable with history rather than representative of the emotional response they originally developed in their customer. This idea of heritage as static history inhibits innovation, prevents dynamic renewal and impedes their ability to redefine, strengthen and position their brand in current and emerging marketplaces. This paper examines a number of heritage luxury brands that have successfully identified the original emotional responses they developed in their customers and, through innovative approaches in design, marketing, branding and distribution evoke these responses in contemporary consumers. Using heritage and innovation hand-in-hand, these brands have continued to grow and develop a vision of heritage that incorporates both historical and contemporary ideas to meet emerging customer needs. While what constitutes a ‘luxury’ item is constantly challenged in this era of accessible luxury products, up scaling and aspirational spending, this paper sees consumers’ emotional needs as the key element in defining the concept of luxury. These emotional qualities consistently remain relevant due to their ability to enhance a positive sense of identity for the brand user. Luxury is about the ‘experience’ not just the product providing the consumer with a sense of enhanced status or identity through invoked feelings of exclusivity, authenticity, quality, uniqueness and culture. This paper will analyse luxury heritage brands that have successfully combined these emotional values with those of their ‘heritage’ to create an aura of authenticity and nostalgia that appeals to contemporary consumers. Like luxury, the line where clothing becomes fashion is blurred in the contemporary fashion industry; however, consumer emotion again plays an important role. For example, clothing becomes ‘fashion’ for consumers when it affects their self perception rather than fulfilling basic functions of shelter and protection. Successful luxury heritage brands can enhance consumers’ sense of self by involving them in the ‘experience’ and ‘personality’ of the brand so they see it as a reflection of their own exclusiveness, authentic uniqueness, belonging and cultural value. Innovation is a valuable tool for heritage luxury brands to successfully generate these desired emotional responses and meet the evolving needs of contemporary consumers. While traditionally fashion has been a monologue from brand to consumer, new technology has given consumers a voice to engage brands in a conversation to express their evolving needs, ideas and feedback. As a result, in this consumer-empowered era of information sharing, this paper defines innovation as the ability of heritage luxury brands to develop new design and branding strategies in response to this consumer feedback while retaining the emotional core values of their heritage. This paper analyses how luxury heritage brands can effectively position themselves in the contemporary marketplace by separating heritage from history to incorporate innovative strategies that will appeal to consumer needs of today and tomorrow.

Single crystal raman spectroscopy of natural paulmooreite Pb2As2O5 and in comparison with the synthesised analogue

The single crystal Raman spectra of natural mineral paulmooreite Pb2As2O5 from the Långban locality, Filipstad district, Värmland province, Sweden are presented for the first time. It is a monoclinic mineral containing an isolated [As2O5]4-. Depolarised and single crystal spectra of the natural and synthetic sample compare favorably and are characterized by strong bands around 186 and 140 cm-1 and three medium bands at 800 – 700 cm-1. Band assignments were made based on band symmetry and spectral comparison between experimental band positions and those resulting from Hartree-Fock calculation of an isolated [As2O5]4- ion. Spectral comparison was also made with lead arsenites such as synthetic PbAs2O4 and Pb2(AsO2)3Cl and natural finnemanite in order to determine the contribution of the terminal and bridging O in paulmooreite. Bands at 760 – 733 cm-1 were assigned to terminal As-O vibrations, whereas stretches of the bridging O occur at 562 and 503 cm-1. The single crystal spectra showed good mode separation, allowing bands to be assigned a symmetry species of Ag or Bg.

Vibrational spectroscopy of synthetic archerite (K,NH4)H2PO4 : and in comparison with the natural cave mineral

In order to mimic the formation of archerite in cave minerals, the mineral analogue has been synthesised. The cave mineral is formed by the reaction of the chemicals in bat guano with calcite substrates. X-ray diffraction proves that the synthesised archerite analogue was pure. The vibrational spectra of the synthesised mineral are compared with that of the natural cave mineral. Raman and infrared bands are assigned to H2PO4-, OH and NH stretching and bending vibrations. The Raman band at 917 cm-1 is assigned to the HOP stretching vibration of the H2PO4- units. Bands in the 1200 to 1800 cm-1 region are associated with NH4+ bending modes. Vibrational spectroscopy enables the molecular structure of archerite to be analysed.

Raman spectroscopy of synthetic CaHPO4•2H2O– and in comparison with the cave mineral brushite

The mineral brushite has been synthesised by mixing calcium ions and hydrogen phosphate anions to mimic the reactions in a Cave. The vibrational spectra of the synthesised brushite were compared with that of the natural Cave mineral. Bands attributable to the PO43- and HPO42- anions are observed. Brushite, both synthetic and natural, is characterised by an intense sharp band at 985 cm-1 with a shoulder at 1000 cm-1. Characteristic bending modes are observed in the 300 to 600 cm-1 region. The spectra of the synthesised brushite matches very well the spectrum of brushite from the Moorba Cave, Western Australia.

Perceptions of over-accommodation used by nurses in communication with the elderly

The aim of the study was to determine how aspects of communication between nurses and the elderly were perceived by elderly people, future nurses, and uninvolved observers. Respondents (elderly women and nursing and psychology students) rated videotapes of interactions between a nurse and an elderly woman on three dimensions: patronizing, status, and solidarity. Three communication strategies and their combinations were represented in the vignettes. Because the strategies presented were perceived as patronizing by all three groups, no group effect was found for the patronizing dimension. The results show clear group differences particularly between the nursing students and the elderly, with the elderly rating many of the strategies more positively than did the nursing students. The results are discussed in relation to previous evaluations of overaccommodation, and implications of the different perceptions are considered.

Infrared and Raman spectroscopic characterisation of the sulphate mineral creedite – Ca3Al2SO4(F,OH)·2H2O – and in comparison with the alums

The mineral creedite is a fluorinated hydroxy hydrated sulphate of aluminium and calcium of formula Ca3Al2SO4(F,OH)·2H2O. The mineral has been studied by a combination of electron probe analysis to determine the molecular formula of the mineral and the structure assessed by vibrational spectroscopy. The spectroscopy of creedite may be compared with that of the alums. The Raman spectrum of creedite is characterised by an intense sharp band at 986 cm−1 assigned to the View the MathML source ν1 (Ag) symmetric stretching mode. Multiple bands of creedite in the antisymmetric stretching region support the concept of a reduction in symmetry of the sulphate anion. Multiple bands are also observed in the bending region with the three bands at 601, 629 and 663 cm−1 assigned to the View the MathML source ν4 (Ag) bending modes. The observation of multiple bands at 440, 457 and 483 cm−1 attributed to the View the MathML source ν2 (Bg) bending modes supports the concept that the symmetry of the sulphate is reduced by coordination to the water bonded to the Al3+ in the creedite structure. The splitting of the ν2, ν3 and ν4 modes is attributed to the reduction of symmetry of the SO4 and it is proposed that the sulphate coordinates to water in the hydrated aluminium in bidentate chelation.

Raman and infrared spectroscopic characterization of the arsenate-bearing mineral tangdanite– and in comparison with the discredited mineral clinotyrolite

The minerals clinotyrolite and fuxiaotuite are discredited in terms of the mineral tangdanite. The mixed anion mineral tangdanite Ca2Cu9(AsO4)4(SO4)0.5(OH)9 9H2O has been studied using a combination of Raman and infrared spectroscopy. Characteristic bands associated with arsenate, sulphate and hydroxyl units are identified. Broad bands in the OH stretching region are observed and are resolved into component bands. These bands are assigned to water and hydroxyl stretching vibrations. Two intense Raman bands at 837 and approximately 734 cm−1 are assigned to the ν1 (AsO4)3− symmetric stretching and ν3 (AsO4)3− antisymmetric stretching modes. Infrared bands at 1023 cm−1 are assigned to the (SO4)2− ν1 symmetric stretching mode, and infrared bands at 1052, 1110 and 1132 cm−1 assigned to (SO4)2− ν3 antisymmetric stretching modes, confirming the presence of the sulphate anion in the tangdanite structure. Raman bands at 593 and 628 cm−1 are attributed to the (SO4)2− ν4 bending modes. Low-intensity Raman bands found at 457 and 472 cm−1 are assigned to the (AsO4)3− ν2 bending modes. A comparison is made with the previously obtained spectral data on the discredited mineral clinotyrolite.

Simultaneous kinetic spectrometric determination of three flavonoid antioxidants in fruit with the aid of chemometrics

A simple, inexpensive and sensitive kinetic spectrophotometric method was developed for the simultaneous determination of three anti-carcinogenic flavonoids: catechin, quercetin and naringenin, in fruit samples. A yellow chelate product was produced in the presence neocuproine and Cu(I) – a reduction product of the reaction between the flavonoids with Cu(II), and this enabled the quantitative measurements with UV–vis spectrophotometry. The overlapping spectra obtained, were resolved with chemometrics calibration models, and the best performing method was the fast independent component analysis (fast-ICA/PCR (Principal component regression)); the limits of detection were 0.075, 0.057 and 0.063 mg L−1 for catechin, quercetin and naringenin, respectively. The novel method was found to outperform significantly the common HPLC procedure.

Channel Islands marine protected areas first 5 years of monitoring: 2003-2008 [Report produced by the California Department of Fish and Game in collaboration with the Partnership for Interdisciplinary Studies of Coastal Oceans (PISCO), Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary, and Channel Islands National Park]

The Channel Islands—sometimes called the Galapagos of North America—are known for their great beauty, rich biodiversity, cultural heritage, and recreational opportunities. In 1980, in recognition of the islands’ importance, the United States Congress established a national park encompassing 5 of California’s Channel Islands (Santa Barbara, Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel Islands) and waters within 1 nautical mile of the islands. In the same year, Congress declared a national marine sanctuary around each of these islands, including waters up to 6 nautical miles offshore. Approximately 60,000 people visit the Channel Islands each year for aquatic recreation such as fishing, sailing, kayaking, wildlife watching, surfing, and diving. Another 30,000 people visit the islands for hiking, camping, and sightseeing. Dozens of commercial fishing boats based in Santa Barbara, Ventura, Oxnard, and other ports go to the Channel Islands to catch squid, spiny lobster, sea urchin, rockfish, crab, sheephead, flatfish, and sea cucumber, among other species. In the past few decades, advances in fishing technology and the rising number of fishermen, in conjunction with changing ocean conditions and diseases, have contributed to declines in some marine fishes and invertebrates at the Channel Islands. In 1998, citizens from Santa Barbara and Ventura proposed establishment of no-take marine reserves at the Channel Islands, beginning a 4-year process of public meetings, discussions, and scientific analyses. In 2003, the California Fish and Game Commission designated a network of marine protected areas (MPAs) in state waters around the northern Channel Islands. In 2006 and 2007, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) extended the MPAs into the national marine sanctuary’s deeper, federal waters. To determine if the MPAs are protecting marine species and habitats, scientists are monitoring ecological changes. They are studying changes in habitats; abundance and size of species of interest; the ocean food web and ecosystem; and movement of fish and invertebrates from MPAs to surrounding waters. Additionally, scientists are monitoring human activities such as commercial and recreational fisheries, and compliance with MPA regulations. This booklet describes some results from the first 5 years of monitoring the Channel Islands MPAs. Although 5 years is not long enough to determine if the MPAs will accomplish all of their goals, this booklet offers a glimpse of the changes that are beginning to take place and illustrates the types of information that will eventually be used to assess the MPAs’ effectiveness. (PDF contains 24 pages.)

Measurements of resistance and reactance in fish with the use of bioelectrical impedance analysis: sources of error

New technologies can be riddled with unforeseen sources of error, jeopardizing the validity and application of their advancement. Bioelectrical impedance analysis (BIA) is a new technology in fisheries research that is capable of estimating proximate composition, condition, and energy content in fish quickly, cheaply, and (after calibration) without the need to sacrifice fish. Before BIA can be widely accepted in fisheries science, it is necessary to identify sources of error and determine a means to minimize potential errors with this analysis. We conducted controlled laboratory experiments to identify sources of errors within BIA measurements. We concluded that electrode needle location, procedure deviations, user experience, time after death, and temperature can affect resistance and reactance measurements. Sensitivity analyses showed that errors in predictive estimates of composition can be large (>50%) when these errors are experienced. Adherence to a strict protocol can help avoid these sources of error and provide BIA estimates that are both accurate and precise in a field or laboratory setting.

A method and tool for 'cradle to grave' embodied carbon and energy impacts of UK buildings in compliance with the new TC350 standards

As operational impacts from buildings are reduced, embodied impacts are increasing. However, the latter are seldom calculated in the UK; when they are, they tend to be calculated after the building has been constructed, or are underestimated by considering only the initial materials stage. In 2010, the UK Government recommended that a standard methodology for calculating embodied impacts of buildings be developed for early stage design decisions. This was followed in 2011-12 by the publication of the European TC350 standards defining the 'cradle to grave' impact of buildings and products through a process Life Cycle Analysis. This paper describes a new whole life embodied carbon and energy of buildings (ECEB) tool, designed as a usable empirical-based approach for early stage design decisions for UK buildings. The tool complies where possible with the TC350 standards. Initial results for a simple masonry construction dwelling are given in terms of the percentage contribution of each life cycle stage. The main difficulty in obtaining these results is found to be the lack of data, and the paper suggests that the construction and manufacturing industries now have a responsibility to develop new data in order to support this task. © 2013 The Authors. Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.