Measuring the influence of fibre-to-fabric properties on the pilling of wool fabrics

This study ranks the contribution of various fibre, yarn and fabric attributes to the pilling of wool knitwear. On the basis of an artificial neural network modelling, a combination of sensitivity analysis, forwards/backwards search and genetic algorithms was used to identify the importance of various fibre/yarn/fabric input parameters. The three different techniques show broad similarities in their assessment of which input parameters are important or are not important in affecting fabric pilling. The ranking shows that fabric cover factor has the most effect on pilling, followed by yarn count and thin places, fibre length, yarn twist, etc. It is further illustrated that the directional trend of the predicted pilling outputs for a selection of inputs was in line with the expected behaviour. To verify the findings of input feature selection, input factors deemed to have a small effect on the predicted pilling output, such as fibre length and diameter variations and curvature, were removed and the subsequent performance statistically compared to the original multi-layer perceptron. Differences between the outputs predicted by the original and pruned models are found not to be statistically significant at the 5% significance level. Results from this study may help manufacturers and knitwear designers in choosing the most appropriate materials and structures to reduce the pilling propensity of wool knitwear.

Predicting the pilling tendency of wool knits

This work investigates the application of artificial neural network modeling (ANN) to model the relationships between fiber, yarn, and fabric properties and the pilling propensity of single jersey and rib pure wool knitted fabrics based on the ICI Pilling Box method. Validation of the model on an independent validation data set suggests that the accurate prediction of pilling propensity is possible with the best performing model achieving a correlation with the subjectively rated pilling grades of approximately 85%. Importantly, it is also illustrated that a larger training set can lead to a marked improvement in the accuracy of predictions.

The hairiness of worsted wool and cashmere yarns and the impact of fiber curvature on hairiness

In this study, a range of carefully selected wool and cashmere yarns as well as their blends were used to examine the effects of fiber curvature and blend ratio on yarn hairiness. The results indicate that yarns spun from wool fibers with a higher curvature have lower yarn hairiness than yarns spun from similar wool of a lower curvature. For blend yarns made from wool and cashmere of similar diameter, yarn hairiness increases with the increase in the cashmere content in the yarn. This is probably due to the presence of increased proportion of the shorter cashmere fibers in the surface regions of the yarn, leading to increased yarn hairiness. A modified hairiness composition model is used to explain these results and the likely origin of leading and trailing hairs. This model highlights the importance of yarn surface composition on yarn hairiness.

Synthesis, polymerization and wool coating studies of 3-iso-butylpyrrole and 3-iso-pentylpyrrole

In a four-step method starting from pyrrole, the synthesis of 3-iso-butylpyrrole and 3-iso-pentylpyrrole, was achieved in 45 and 44% yields, respectively. Polymerization studies of these branched alkyl pyrroles are described and the results compared with those obtained for the unbranched structural isomers n-butyl and n-pentylpyrrole. A series of conductive textiles were produced by the chemical polymerization of the iso-alkylpyrroles using both solution and vapour polymerization techniques. Fabrics coated with poly-iso-alkylpyrrole formed using the solution polymerization method had a lower surface resistance than those formed using the vapour polymerization method. These conductivity results were in direct contrast to those previously obtained for 3-n-alkylpyrroles on fabrics. A remarkable crystal-like growth on the surface of the textile fabric was observed when solution polymerization of 3-iso-pentylpyrrole was employed—reinforcing the notion that subtle changes in monomer structure can drastically affect bulk polymer properties.

Determination of cashmere and wool fibre scale frequency by analysing diameter profiles with fast fourier transform

This paper describes a potentially faster and cheaper method of determining fibre scale frequencies. The method uses the single fibre analyser (SIFAN) to  determine the along the fibre diameter profile. This information is then analysed by the Fast Fourier Transform technique using computer software. The paper shows the close association between the mean scale frequencies determined by this method and the traditional approach using SEM.

Cashmere and wool cortical cells

This paper proposes that instead of the expensive and difficult task of examining the morphology of fibre cuticle scales that an alternative approach of examining the internal morphology of cortical cells may be faster and cheaper. Preliminary data were presented and further work is required.

Farm-level efficiency and productivity measurement using panel data: wool production in south-west Victoria

In this article we explore some issues surrounding the use of farm-level efficiency and productivity estimates for benchmarking studies. Using an eight-year balanced panel of Victorian wool producers we analyse annual variation between estimates of farm-level technical efficiency derived using Data Envelopment Analysis and Malmquist estimates of Total Factor Productivity. We find that farms change their relative rank in terms of efficiency across years. Also, unlike aggregate studies of Total Factor Productivity, we find at best erratic and modest growth, a worrying result for this industry. However, caution is needed when interpreting these results, and for that matter, benchmarking analysis as currently practised when using frontier estimation techniques like Data Envelopment Analysis.

Behind WorkChoices : how one company changed Australia's industrial relations

Never has a form of legislation created such contentious and wide-reaching emotional debate in Australia. It has divided the community and has resulted in extensive media activity. To the forefront are Australian academics who have often been the resource of expert comment and their reports have been prolific. In this book, academics have taken to opportunity to write their own perception of the impact of Work Choices in the workplace.

Improvement of adhesion of conductive polypyrrole coating on wool and polyester fabrics using atmospheric plasma treatment

In this paper wool and polyester fabrics were pretreated with atmospheric plasma glow discharge (APGD) to improve the ability of the substrate to bond with anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid doped conducting polypyrrole coating. A range of APGD gas mixtures and treatment times were investigated. APGD treated fabrics were tested for surface contact angle, wettability and surface energy change. Effect of the plasma treatment on the binding strength was analyzed by studying abrasion resistance, surface resistivity and reflectance. Investigations showed that treated fabrics exhibited better hydrophilicity and increased surface energy. Surface treatment by an APGD gas mixture of 95% helium/5% nitrogen yielded the best results with respect to coating uniformity, abrasion resistance and conductivity.

Conductive wool yarns by continuous vapour phase polymerization of pyrrole

Conducting polypyrrole (PPy) coated wool yarns were prepared by a continuous vapour polymerization technique, using a speed of 1 m/min with different iron(III) chloride (FeCl₃) as the oxidant at different concentrations. The resistivities, tensile properties, longitudinal and cross-sectional views of PPy-coated wool yarns were investigated. Optimum specific electrical resistances of 2.96 Ω g/cm² at 80 g/L FeCl₃ and 1.69 Ω g/cm² at 70 g/L FeCl₃ were obtained for 500 and 400 twist per meter (TPM) yarns, respectively. PPy-coated wool yarns exhibited higher elongation than uncoated yarns. Longitudinal and cross-sectional views of the yarns indicate that PPy coating penetrated deep into the yarn cross-section and a uniform coating was obtained on the surface of the yarn surface.

Differences in underpricing returns between REIT IPOs and industrial company IPOs

This paper follows Chan, Stohs, andWang (2001), which argues that the underlying value of the real estate is not by itself the reason for the very substantial differences in underpricing returns between real estate investment trust (REIT) IPOs and industrial company IPOs.We use variables identified in previous studies that have helped explain the underpricing of industrial company IPOs to help explain the underpricing of property trust IPOs. We find that the prospectus forecast dividend yield is a critical variable in the valuation and hence underpricing of REIT IPOs compared to industrial company IPOs. The sentiment towards the market and whether or not the issue is underwritten also impact the underpricing of REITs but the impact is much less than on industrial company IPOs.

Characterization of superfine wool powder/poly(propylene) blend film

Superfine wool powder was blended and extruded with poly(propylene) (PP) to produce blend pellets, and the extruded pellets were hot-pressed into a blend film. SEM photographs show that the powder could be uniformly incorporated with PP after extrusion. FT-IR spectra shows that no substantial changes occurred in the chemical structure of both PP and wool powder in the blend film. X-Ray diffraction analysis indicates that crystallinity of the blend film was much higher than that of the wool powder and little lower than that of PP. TG-tested results indicate that the thermal stability of the blend film declined with an increase in the powder content. Endothermic peaks of the wool powder in the blend film become more obvious as the powder content increases. Mechanical properties decline greatly with an increase in the wool powder content in the blend film.

Influence of pH on hygral expansion, relaxation shrinkage and extensibility of wool fabric

The standard tests for relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion of wool fabric take no account of pH. It is shown in this work that the pH of the solution in which wool fabric is relaxed as part of the procedure for measuring dimensional properties has a significant influence on the results. At around pH 4.8, which is close to the isoelectric point of wool, the hygral expansion reaches its greatest value and drops at both lower and higher pHs. A similar relationship between pH and extensibility of wool fabric was observed. Values of relaxation shrinkage were found to be dependant on pH. The reasons for the pH dependence of dimensional properties are discussed and these include changes in wool fiber swelling, yarn crimp and polymer relaxation phenomena with changes in pH.

Objective pilling evaluation of wool fabrics

An objective pilling evaluation method based on the multi-scale two-dimensional dual-tree complex wavelet transform and linear discriminant function of Bayes' Rule was developed. The surface fuzz and pills are identified from the high-frequency noise, fabric textures, fabric surface unevenness, and illuminative variation of a pilled fabric image by the two-dimensional dual-tree complex wavelet decomposition and reconstruction. The energies of the reconstructed subimages in six spatial orientations (±15º, ±45º, ±75º) are calculated as the elements of the pilling feature vector, whose dimension is reduced by principal component analysis. A linear discriminant function of Bayes' Rule was used as a classifier to establish classification rules among the five pilling grades. A new pilled sample with the same physical construction can then be automatically assigned to one of the five pilling grades by the classification rules. A general evaluation of the proposed method was conducted using the SM50 woven, non-woven, and SM54 knitted standard pilling test image sets. The results suggest that the new method can successfully establish classification rules among the five pilling grade groups for each of the three standard pilling test image sets and should be applicable to practical objective pilling evaluation.