Depth inversion in coastal water based on SAR image of waves

Wave-number spectrum technique is proposed to retrieve coastal water depths by means of Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) image of waves. Based on the general dispersion relation of ocean waves, the wavelength changes of a surface wave over varying water depths can be derived from SAR. Approaching the analysis of SAR images of waves and using the general dispersion relation of ocean waves, this indirect technique of remote sensing bathymetry has been applied to a coastal region of Xiapu in Fujian Province, China. Results show that this technique is suitable for the coastal waters especially for the near-shore regions with variable water depths.

南海张裂大陆边缘数值模拟研究

The South China Sea (SCS) is one of the largest marginal seas in the western Pacific, which is located at the junction of Eurasian plate, Pacific plate and Indian-Australian plate. It was formed by continent breakup and sea-floor spreading in Cenozoic. The complicated interaction among the three major plates made tectonic movement complex and geological phenomena very rich in this area. The SCS is an ideal place to study the formation and evolution of rifted continental margin and sea-floor spreading since it is old enough to have experienced the major stages of the basin evolution but still young enough to have preserved its original nature. As the demand for energy grows day by day in our country, the deep water region of the northern continental margin in the SCS has become a focus of oil and gas exploration because of its huge hydrocarbon potential. Therefore, to study the rifted continental margin of the SCS not only can improve our understanding of the formation and evolution processes of rifted continental margin, but also can provide theoretical support for hydrocarbon exploration in rifted continental margin. This dissertation mainly includes five topics as follows: (1) Various classic lithosphere stretching models are reviewed, and the continuous non-uniform stretching model is modified to make it suitable for the case where the extension of lithopheric mantle exceeds that of the crust. Then simple/pure shear flexural cantilever model is applied to model the basement geometries of SO49-18 profile in the northern continental margin of the SCS. By fitting the basements obtained by using 2DMove software with modeling results, it is found that the reasonable effective elastic thickness is less than 5km in this region. According to this result, it is assumed that there is weak lower crust in the northern continental margin in the SCS. (2) We research on the methods for stretching factor estimation based on various lithosphere stretching models, and apply the method based on multiple finite rifting model to estimate the stretching factors of several wells and profiles in the northern continental margin of the SCS. (3) We improve one-dimension strain rate inversion method with conjugate gradient method, and apply it to invert the strain rate of several wells in the northern continental margin of the SCS. Two-dimension strain rate forward modeling is carried out, and the modeling results show that effective elastic thickness is a key parameter to control basin’s geometry. (4) We simulate divergent upwelling mantle flow model using finite difference method, and apply this newly developed model to examine the formation mechanism of the northwest and central sub-basin in the SCS. (5) We inverse plate thickness and basal temperature of oceanic lithosphere using sea-floor ages and bathymetries of the North Pacific and the North Atlantic based on varied-parameters plate model, in which the heat conductivity, heat capacity and coefficient of thermal expansion depend on temperature or depth. A new empirical formula is put forward based the inversed parameters, which depicts the relation among sea-floor age, bathymetry and heat flow. Then various similar empirical formulae, including the newly developed one, are applied to examine the sea-floor spread issue in the SCS based on the heat flow and bathymetry data of the abyssal sub-basin.

Macroecology of Calanus finmarchicus and C. helgolandicus in the North Atlantic Ocean and adjacent seas

Global climate change is expected to modify the spatial distribution of marine organisms. However, projections of future changes should be based on robust information on the ecological niche of species. This paper presents a macroecological study of the environmental tolerance and ecological niche (sensu Hutchinson 1957, i.e. the field of tolerance of a species to the principal factors of its environment) of Calanus finmarchicus and C. helgolandicus in the North Atlantic Ocean and adjacent seas. Biological data were collected by the Continuous Plankton Recorder (CPR) Survey, which samples plankton in the North Atlantic and adjacent seas at a standard depth of 7 m. Eleven parameters were chosen including bathymetry, temperature, salinity, nutrients, mixed-layer depth and an index of turbulence compiled from wind data and chlorophyll a concentrations (used herein as an index of available food). The environmental window and the optimum level were determined for both species and for each abiotic factor and chlorophyll concentration. The most important parameters that influenced abundance and spatial distribution were temperature and its correlates such as oxygen and nutrients. Bathymetry and other water-column-related parameters also played an important role. The ecological niche of C. finmarchicus was larger than that of C. helgolandicus and both niches were significantly separated. Our results have important implications in the context of global climate change. As temperature (and to some extent stratification) is predicted to continue to rise in the North Atlantic sector, changes in the spatial distribution of these 2 Calanus species can be expected. Application of this approach to the 1980s North Sea regime shift provides evidence that changes in sea temperature alone could have triggered the substantial and rapid changes identified in the dynamic regimes of these ecosystems. C. finmarchicus appears to be a good indicator of the Atlantic Polar Biome (mainly the Atlantic Subarctic and Arctic provinces) while C. helgolandicus is an indicator of more temperate waters (Atlantic Westerly Winds Biome) in regions characterised by more pronounced spatial changes in bathymetry.

Spatial and temporal variability in Scotian Shelf zooplankton communities

Zooplankton are indicators of the response of marine ecosystems to environmental variability. The relationships between zooplankton communities on the Scotian Shelf and hydrographic and geographic regions of the Scotian Shelf in the 1990s and 2000s were described using complementary data sets, each resolving different space and time scales. The Atlantic Zone Monitoring Program (AZMP) sampled Scotian Shelf zooplankton from the whole water column twice per year at stations along three cross-shelf transects and semi-monthly at a fixed station on the inshore central shelf, while Continuous Plankton Recorder (CPR) samples were collected from near-surface waters approximately monthly on an along-shelf transect. Variability patterns were compared among these three data sets to identify robust spatial and interannual trends. Stations were clustered based on taxonomic composition, and spatial clusters were compared to hydrographic boundaries and bathymetry to determine whether temporal changes in community composition were driven by changes in water mass distributions on the shelf. This project identifies zooplankton community and abundance shifts that may affect fish recruitment in the northwest Atlantic and contributes to development of ecosystem-based fisheries management on the Scotian Shelf.

Chlorophyll enhancement in the central region of the Bay of Biscay as a result of internal tidal wave interaction

A multi-sensor satellite approach based on ocean colour, sunglint and Synthetic Aperture Radar imagery is used to study the impact of interacting internal tidal (IT) waves on near-surface chlorophyll-a distribution, in the central Bay of Biscay. Satellite imagery was initially used to characterize the internal solitary wave (ISW) field in the study area, where the “local generation mechanism” was found to be associated with two distinct regions of enhanced barotropic tidal forcing. IT beams formed at the French shelf-break, and generated from critical bathymetry in the vicinities of one of these regions, were found to be consistent with “locally generated” ISWs. Representative case studies illustrate the existence of two different axes of IT propagation originating from the French shelf-break, which intersect close to 46°N, − 7°E, where strong IT interaction has been previously identified. Evidence of constructive interference between large IT waves is then presented and shown to be consistent with enhanced levels of chlorophyll-a concentration detected by means of ocean colour satellite sensors. Finally, the results obtained from satellite climatological mean chlorophyll-a concentration from late summer (i.e. September, when ITs and ISWs can meet ideal propagation conditions) suggest that elevated IT activity plays a significant role in phytoplankton vertical distribution, and therefore influences the late summer ecology in the central Bay of Biscay.

Complex coastal oceanographic fields can be described by universal multifractals

Characterization of chlorophyll and sea surface temperature (SST) structural heterogeneity using their scaling properties can provide a useful tool to estimate the relative importance of key physical and biological drivers. Seasonal, annual, and also instantaneous spatial distributions of chlorophyll and SST, determined from satellite measurements, in seven different coastal and shelf-sea regions around the UK have been studied. It is shown that multifractals provide a very good approximation to the scaling properties of the data: in fact, the multifractal scaling function is well approximated by universal multifractal theory. The consequence is that all of the statistical information about data structure can be reduced to being described by two parameters. It is further shown that also bathymetry scales in the studied regions as multifractal. The SST and chlorophyll multifractal structures are then explained as an effect of bathymetry and turbulence.

Potential impacts of climate change on the primary production of regional seas: A comparative analysis of five European seas

Regional seas are potentially highly vulnerable to climate change, yet are the most directly societally important regions of the marine environment. The combination of widely varying conditions of mixing, forcing, geography (coastline and bathymetry) and exposure to the open-ocean makes these seas subject to a wide range of physical processes that mediates how large scale climate change impacts on these seas’ ecosystems. In this paper we explore the response of five regional sea areas to potential future climate change, acting via atmospheric, oceanic and terrestrial vectors. These include the Barents Sea, Black Sea, Baltic Sea, North Sea, Celtic Seas, and are contrasted with a region of the Northeast Atlantic. Our aim is to elucidate the controlling dynamical processes and how these vary between and within these seas. We focus on primary production and consider the potential climatic impacts on: long term changes in elemental budgets, seasonal and mesoscale processes that control phytoplankton’s exposure to light and nutrients, and briefly direct temperature response. We draw examples from the MEECE FP7 project and five regional model systems each using a common global Earth System Model as forcing. We consider a common analysis approach, and additional sensitivity experiments. Comparing projections for the end of the 21st century with mean present day conditions, these simulations generally show an increase in seasonal and permanent stratification (where present). However, the first order (low- and mid-latitude) effect in the open ocean projections of increased permanent stratification leading to reduced nutrient levels, and so to reduced primary production, is largely absent, except in the NE Atlantic. Even in the two highly stratified, deep water seas we consider (Black and Baltic Seas) the increase in stratification is not seen as a first order control on primary production. Instead, results show a highly heterogeneous picture of positive and negative change arising from complex combinations of multiple physical drivers, including changes in mixing, circulation and temperature, which act both locally and non-locally through advection.

Late Pleistocene history of turbidite sedimentation in a submarine canyon off the northern Great Barrier Reef, Australia

Cores from slopes east of the Great Barrier Reef (GBR) challenge traditional models for sedimentation on tropical mixed siliciclastic-carbonate margins. However, satisfactory explanations of sediment accumulation on this archetypal margin that include both hemipelagic and turbidite sedimentation remain elusive, as submarine canyons and their role in delivering coarse-grained turbidite deposits, are poorly understood. Towards addressing this problem we investigated the shelf and canyon system bordering the northern Ribbon Reefs and reconstructed the history of turbidite deposition since the Late Pleistocene. High-resolution bathymetric and seismic data show a large paleo-channel system that crosses the shelf before connecting with the canyons via the inter-reef passages between the Ribbon Reefs. High-resolution bathymetry of the canyon axis reveals a complex and active system of channels, sand waves, and local submarine landslides. Multi-proxy examination of three cores from down the axis of the canyon system reveals 18 turbidites and debrites, interlayered with hemipelagic muds, that are derived from a mix of shallow and deep sources. Twenty radiocarbon ages indicate that siliciclastic-dominated and mixed turbidites only occur prior to 31 ka during Marine Isotope Stage (MIS) 3, while carbonate-dominated turbidites are well established by 11 ka in MIS1 until as recently as 1.2 ka. The apparent lack of siliciclastic-dominated turbidites and presence of only a few carbonate-dominated turbidites during the MIS2 lowstand are not consistent with generic models of margin sedimentation but might also reflect a gap in the turbidite record. These data suggest that turbidite sedimentation in the Ribbon Reef canyons, probably reflects the complex relationship between the prolonged period (> 25 ka) of MIS3 millennial sea level changes and local factors such as the shelf, inter-reef passage depth, canyon morphology and different sediment sources. On this basis we predict that the spatial and temporal patterns of turbidite sedimentation could vary considerably along the length of the GBR margin.

Filling the gap: A 60 ky record of mixed carbonate-siliciclastic turbidite deposition from the Great Barrier Reef

Late Pleistocene to Holocene margin sedimentation on the Great Barrier Reef, a mixed carbonatesiliciclastic margin, has been explained by a transgressive shedding model. This model has challenged widely accepted sequence stratigraphic models in terms of the timing and type of sediment (i.e. carbonate vs. siliciclastic) deposited during sea-level oscillations. However, this model documents only hemipelagic sedimentation and the contribution of coarse-grained turbidite deposition, and the role of submarine canyons in this process, remain elusive on this archetypal margin. Here we present a new model of turbidite deposition for the last 60 ky in the north-eastern Australia margin. Using highresolution bathymetry, 58 new and existing radiometric ages, and the composition of 81 turbidites from 15 piston cores, we found that the spatial and temporal variation of turbidites is controlled by the relationship between sea-level change and the variable physiography along the margin. Siliciclastic and mixed carbonate-siliciclastic turbidites were linked to canyons indenting the shelf-break and the welldeveloped shelf-edge reef barriers that stored sediment behind them. Turbidite deposition was sustained while the sea-level position allowed the connection and sediment bypassing through the interreef passages and canyons. Carbonate turbidites dominated in regions with more open conditions at the outer-shelf and where slope-confined canyons dominated or where canyons are generally less abundant. The turn-on and maintenance of carbonate production during sea-level fluctuations also influenced the timing of carbonate turbidite deposition. We show that a fundamental understanding of the variable physiography inherent to mixed carbonate-siliciclastic margins is essential to accurately interpret deep-water, coarse-grained deposition within a sequence stratigraphic context. 

A sedimentologic and 14C dating study of five eastern Australian upper continental slope submarine landslides

Sedimentologic and AMS 14C age data are reported for calcareous hemipelagic mud samples taken from gravity cores collected at sites within, or adjacent to five submarine landslides identified with multibeam bathymetry data on the Nerrang Plateau segment and surrounding canyons of eastern Australia's continental slope (Bribie Bowl, Coolangatta-2, Coolangatta-1, Cudgen and Byron). Sediments are comprised of mixtures of calcareous and terrigenous clay (10-20%), silt (50-65%) and sand (15-40%) and are generally uniform in appearance. Their carbonate contents vary between and 17% and 22% by weight while organic carbon contents are less than 10% by weight. Dating of conformably deposited material identified in ten of the twelve cores indicates a range of sediment accumulation rates between 0.017mka-1 and 0.2 mka-1 which are consistent with previous estimates reported for this area. One slide-adjacent core, and four within-landslide cores present depositional hiatus surfaces located at depths of 0.8 to 2.2 meters below the present-day seafloor and identified by a sharp, colour-change boundary; discernable but small increases in sediment stiffness; and a slight increase in sediment bulk density of 0.1 gcm-3. Distinct gaps in AMS 14C age of at least 20ka are recorded across these boundary surfaces. Examination of sub-bottom profiler records of transects through three of the within-slide core-sites and their nearby landslide scarps available for the Coolangatta-1 and Cudgen slides indicate that: 1) the youngest identifiable sediment layer reflectors upslope of these slides, terminate on and are truncated by slide rupture surfaces; and 2) there is no obvious evidence in the sub-bottom profiles for a post-slide sediment layer draped over or otherwise burying slide ruptures or exposed slide detachment surfaces. This suggests that both these submarine landslides are geologically recent and suggests that the hiatus surfaces identified in Coolangatta-1's and Cudgen's within-slide cores are either: a) erosional features that developed after the occurrence of the landslide in which case the hiatus surface age provides a minimum age for landslide occurrence or b) detachment surfaces from which slabs of near-surface sediment were removed during landsliding in which case the post-hiatus sediment dates indicates approximately when landsliding occurred. In either case, it is reasonable to suggest that these two spatially adjacent slides occurred penecontemporaneously approximately 20,000 years ago.

Contribution to the study of the Ria de Aveiro inlet morphodynamics

Over the years it was observed at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet, near the head of the north breakwater, a depth increase that might threaten the stability of this structure. A trend of accretion in the navigation channel of this lagoon is observed, endangering the navigation in this region. In order to understand the origin of these and other trends observed, the knowledge of the sediment transport in the study area is imperative. The main aim of this work is understanding the dominant physical processes in the sediment transport of sediment at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet and adjacent area, improving knowledge of this region morphodynamics. The methodology followed in this study consisted in the analyzes of the topohydrographic surveys performed by the Administration of the Aveiro Harbor, and in the numerical simulations results performed with the morphodynamic modeling system MORSYS2D. The analysis of the surveys was performed by studying the temporal evolution of the bathymetry. The numerical analysis was based on the implementation of the model at the study area, sensitivity analysis of the formulations used to compute the sediment transport to the variation of input parameters (e.g. depth, sediment size, tidal currents) and analysis of the sediment uxes and bathymetric changes predicted. The simulations considered as sediment transport forcing the tidal currents only and the coupled forcing of tides and waves. Considering the wave e ect as sediment transport forcing, both monochromatic waves and a wave regime were simulated. The results revealed that the observed residual sediment transport patterns are generated due to the channel con guration. Inside the lagoon the uxes are mainly induced by the tidal currents action, restricting the action of waves to the inlet and adjacent coast. In the navigation channel the residual sediment uxes predicted are directed o - shore with values between 7 and 40 m3=day generating accretions of approximately 10 m3=day for the shallower region and 35 m3=day for the region between the tidal gauge and the tri^angulo das mar es. At the inlet, the residual uxes are approximately 30 m3=day inducing trends of erosion of approximately 20 m3=day. At the North side of the nearshore accretion is predicted, while at the South side is predicted erosion, at the rates of 250 and 1500 m3=day, respectively. It was also concluded that the waves with higher contribution to the residual sediment uxes are those with heights between 4 and 5 m. However, the storm waves with heights bigger than 5 m, despite their 10% of frequency of occurrence are responsible for 25% of the observed sediment transport.

Modelling the Minho river plume intrusion into the rias baixas

The Minho River, situated 30 km south of the Rias Baixas is the most important freshwater source flowing into the Western Galician Coast (NW of the Iberian Peninsula). This discharge is important to determine the hydrological patterns adjacent to its mouth, particularly close to the Galician coastal region. The buoyancy generated by the Minho plume can flood the Rias Baixas for long periods, reversing the normal estuarine density gradients. Thus, it becomes important to analyse its dynamics as well as the thermohaline patterns of the areas affected by the freshwater spreading. Thus, the main aim of this work was to study the propagation of the Minho estuarine plume to the Rias Baixas, establishing the conditions in which this plume affects the circulation and hydrographic features of these coastal systems, through the development and application of the numerical model MOHID. For this purpose, the hydrographic features of the Rias Baixas mouths were studied. It was observed that at the northern mouths, due to their shallowness, the heat fluxes between the atmosphere and ocean are the major forcing, influencing the water temperature, while at the southern mouths the influence of the upwelling events and the Minho River discharge were more frequent. The salinity increases from south to north, revealing that the observed low values may be caused by the Minho River freshwater discharge. An assessment of wind data along the Galician coast was carried out, in order to evaluate the applicability of the study to the dispersal of the Minho estuarine plume. Firstly, a comparative analysis between winds obtained from land meteorological stations and offshore QuikSCAT satellite were performed. This comparison revealed that satellite data constitute a good approach to study wind induced coastal phenomena. However, since the numerical model MOHID requires wind data with high spatial and temporal resolution close to the coast, results of the forecasted model WRF were added to the previous study. The analyses revealed that the WRF model data is a consistent tool to obtain representative wind data near the coast, showing good results when comparing with in situ wind observations from oceanographic buoys. To study the influence of the Minho buoyant discharge influence on the Rias Baixas, a set of three one-way nested models was developed and implemented, using the numerical model MOHID. The first model domain is a barotropic model and includes the whole Iberian Peninsula coast. The second and third domains are baroclinic models, where the second domain is a coarse representation of the Rias Baixas and adjacent coastal area, while the third includes the same area with a higher resolution. A bi-dimensional model was also implemented in the Minho estuary, in order to quantify the flow (and its properties) that the estuary injects into the ocean. The chosen period for the Minho estuarine plume propagation validation was the spring of 1998, since a high Minho River discharge was reported, as well as favourable wind patterns to advect the estuarine plume towards the Rias Baixas, and there was field data available to compare with the model predictions. The obtained results show that the adopted nesting methodology was successful implemented. Model predictions reproduce accurately the hydrodynamics and thermohaline patterns on the Minho estuary and Rias Baixas. The importance of the Minho river discharge and the wind forcing in the event of May 1998 was also studied. The model results showed that a continuous moderate Minho River discharge combined with southerly winds is enough to reverse the Rias Baixas circulation pattern, reducing the importance of the occurrence of specific events of high runoff values. The conditions in which the estuarine plume Minho affects circulation and hydrography of the Rias Baixas were evaluated. The numerical results revealed that the Minho estuarine plume responds rapidly to wind variations and is also influenced by the bathymetry and morphology of the coastline. Without wind forcing, the plume expands offshore, creating a bulge in front of the river mouth. When the wind blows southwards, the main feature is the offshore extension of the plume. Otherwise, northward wind spreads the river plume towards the Rias Baixas. The plume is confined close to the coast, reaching the Rias Baixas after 1.5 days. However, for Minho River discharges higher than 800 m3 s-1, the Minho estuarine plume reverses the circulation patterns in the Rias Baixas. It was also observed that the wind stress and Minho River discharge are the most important factors influencing the size and shape of the Minho estuarine plume. Under the same conditions, the water exchange between Rias Baixas was analysed following the trajectories particles released close to the Minho River mouth. Over 5 days, under Minho River discharges higher than 2100 m3 s-1 combined with southerly winds of 6 m s-1, an intense water exchange between Rias was observed. However, only 20% of the particles found in Ria de Pontevedra come directly from the Minho River. In summary, the model application developed in this study contributed to the characterization and understanding of the influence of the Minho River on the Rias Baixas circulation and hydrography, highlighting that this methodology can be replicated to other coastal systems.

Quantifying Submerged Fluvial Topography Using Hyperspatial Resolution UAS Imagery and Structure From Motion Photogrammetry.

Quantifying the topography of rivers and their associated bedforms has been a fundamental concern of fluvial geomorphology for decades. Such data, acquired at high temporal and spatial resolutions, are increasingly in demand for process-oriented investigations of flow hydraulics, sediment dynamics and in-stream habitat. In these riverine environments, the most challenging region for topographic measurement is the wetted, submerged channel. Generally, dry bed topography and submerged bathymetry are measured using different methods and technology. This adds to the costs, logistical challenges and data processing requirements of comprehensive river surveys. However, some technologies are capable of measuring the submerged topography. Through-water photogrammetry and bathymetric LiDAR are capable of reasonably accurate measurements of channel beds in clear water. Whilst the cost of bathymetric LiDAR remains high and its resolution relatively coarse, the recent developments in photogrammetry using Structure from Motion (SfM) algorithms promise a fundamental shift in the accessibility of topographic data for a wide range of settings. Here we present results demonstrating the potential of so called SfM-photogrammetry for quantifying both exposed and submerged fluvial topography at the mesohabitat scale. We show that imagery acquired from a rotary-winged Unmanned Aerial System (UAS) can be processed in order to produce digital elevation models (DEMs) with hyperspatial resolutions (c. 0.02 m) for two different river systems over channel lengths of 50-100 m. Errors in submerged areas range from 0.016 m to 0.089 m, which can be reduced to between 0.008 m and 0.053 m with the application of a simple refraction correction. This work therefore demonstrates the potential of UAS platforms and SfM-photogrammetry as a single technique for surveying fluvial topography at the mesoscale (defined as lengths of channel from c.10 m to a few hundred metres). This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Circulation patterns and processes in Barkley Sound, Vancouver, BC

Senior thesis written for Oceanography 444

Survey of dinoflagellate cysts in Barkley Sound, Vancouver Island, Canada

Senior thesis written for Oceanography 445