Wage structures and family economies in the Catalan textile industry in an age of nascent capitalism

This paper deals with changes in managerial practices in Catalonia in anage of nascent capitalism (1830-1925) and adaptive family strategies inorder to face the absence of state welfare. During the 19 t h Century andin the absence of recorded labor contracts, human resources of the firmwere organized by means of implicit contracts and informal labor markets.With the advent of scientific organization of labor, wage per hour workedbegan to be recorded. This is why in the 1920s the perfect competitionmodel applies to our case. On the other hand, in the same period, and inthe absence of state welfare, ideas stemming from cooperative game theoryapply to the pattern of household income formation. Kin related networkswere used to improve the living standards of the household. In thisparticular direction we also show that there was a demonstration effectby means of which migrant s living standards were higher than those ofnatives.

Labour market in the Catalan cotton textile sector: Employment and fertility (1850-1913)

This paper deals whit the dynamics of the Catalan textile labour market (theSpanish region that concentrated most of the industrial and factory activity duringthe 19 Century) and offers hypotheses and results on the impact it had on livingstandards and fertility levels. We observe the formation of an uneven labourmarket in which male supply for labour (excluding women and children) grewmuch faster than the demand. We stress the fact that labour supply is verydependant on institutional factors liked to the transmition of household propertybetween generations. Instead the slow path of growth of adult males demand forlabour is witnessing the limits of this industry to expand and to compete ininternational markets. The strategy of working class families to adapt to scarceopportunities of employment we document here is the diminution of legitimatefertility levels. Fertility control is the direct instrument we think workers have tocontrol their number in a situation that was likely to create labour surpluses in theshort and mid run.

Analysis of dyes in illicit pills (amphetamine and derivatives)

The determination of dyes present in illicit pills is shown to be useful and easy-to-get information in strategic and tactical drug intelligence. An analytical strategy including solid-phase extraction (SPE) thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and capillary zone electrophoresis equipped with a diode array detector (CZE-DAD) was developed to identify and quantify 14 hydrosoluble, acidic, synthetic food dyes allowed in the European Community. Indeed, these may be the most susceptible dyes to be found in illicit pills through their availability and easiness of use. The results show (1) that this analytical method is well adapted to small samples such as illicit pills, (2) that most dyes actually found belong to hydrosoluble, acidic, synthetic food dyes allowed in the European Community, and (3) that this evidence turns out to be important in drug intelligence and may be assessed into a Bayesian framework.

Cotton manufacturers as bankers: the textile trade and credit in spain, 1840-1913

[cat] La historiografia ha assenyalat que en el segle XIX el crèdit que els fabricants cotoners catalans oferien als seus clients era de caràcter informal i, per tant, impossible de ser transferit al sistema bancari. Això hauria tingut un efecte negatiu en la rendibilitat de les empreses cotoneres. A partir de l’anàlisi de diversos arxius empresarials, així com de fonts judicials i notarials, aquest treball confirma aquesta descripció dels fets però proposa una interpretació més optimista. Els fabricants feien de banquers dels seus clients perquè eren els millor situats per a exercir aquesta funció. Havien construït una bona estructura d’informació, gestionaven eficientment el risc creditici i obtenien beneficis d’aquesta activitat.

Cotton manufacturers as bankers: the textile trade and credit in spain, 1840-1913

[cat] La historiografia ha assenyalat que en el segle XIX el crèdit que els fabricants cotoners catalans oferien als seus clients era de caràcter informal i, per tant, impossible de ser transferit al sistema bancari. Això hauria tingut un efecte negatiu en la rendibilitat de les empreses cotoneres. A partir de l’anàlisi de diversos arxius empresarials, així com de fonts judicials i notarials, aquest treball confirma aquesta descripció dels fets però proposa una interpretació més optimista. Els fabricants feien de banquers dels seus clients perquè eren els millor situats per a exercir aquesta funció. Havien construït una bona estructura d’informació, gestionaven eficientment el risc creditici i obtenien beneficis d’aquesta activitat.

Efficacy of the fluorescent dyes Fast Blue, Fluoro-Gold, and Diamidino Yellow for retrograde tracing to dorsal root ganglia after subcutaneous injection

The present study was designed to investigate the efficacy of the fluorescent dyes Fast Blue (FB), Fluoro-Gold (FG), and Diamidino Yellow (DY) for retrograde tracing of lumbar dorsal root ganglia after their subcutaneous injection into different hindlimb digits. Injection of equal volumes (0.5 mu l) of 5% FB or 2% FG resulted in similar mean numbers of sensory neurones labelled by each tracer. Injection of equal volumes (0.5 mu l) of FB or FG in a single digit followed 10 days later by a second injection of the same volume of 5% DY into the same digit resulted in similar mean numbers of labelled sensory neurones for each of the three tracers. Furthermore, on average, 75% of all the FB-labelled cells and 74% of all FC-labelled cells also contained DY. Repeating the same experiment with an increased volume of DY (1.5 mu l) resulted in an increase in the mean number of double-labelled profiles to 82 and 84% for FB and FG, respectively. The results show that FB, FG and DY label similar numbers of cutaneous afferents and that a high level of double labelling may be obtained after sequential injections in digits. These properties make them suitable candidates in investigations where a combination of tracers with similar labelling efficacies is needed.

Decolorization and toxicity of municipal waste by horseradish (Cochlearia armoracia)

The Municipal Station of Americana, SP, Brazil, treats a volume of 400 l s-1 of effluent, of domestic and textile origin, and produces about 20 t of sludge per day. The plant horseradish, which contains high amount of peroxidases, was able to decolorize this effluent in 2 h and the solid waste in 2 days, at concentrations of 10 and 50%, respectively. However, there was an increase in the toxicity for the bioassays with Hydra attenuatta, Selenastrum capricornutum and lettuce seeds, indicating formation of more toxic substances. Since horseradish showed the ability to decolorize these residues, it can be used as pre-treatment resulting in a sludge of less complex composition.

2-fenilbenzotriazóis (PBTA): uma nova classe de contaminantes ambientais

This work is a literature review of PBTAs, the phenylbenzotriazoles generated from the reduction and chlorination of azo dyes. The PBTAs and the non- chlorinated PBTAs were isolated for the first time from river blue rayon organic extracts that showed high mutagenic activity in the Salmonella/microsome genotoxicity assay. To date, 8 PBTAs have been identified and beside their mutagenic activity in bacteria they cause genotoxic effects in fish and mammalian cell cultures. Due to the large number of textile dyeing facilities in Brazil, studies to determine them in the aquatic environment seem to be relevant.

Elimination of dyes from aqueous solutions using iron oxides and chitosan as adsorbents: a comparative study

This work investigates the adsorption of Alizarin, Eriochrome Blue Black R and Fluorescein using chitosan, goethite and magnetite as adsorbents. For Alizarin, the best adsorbent is chitosan with a Langmuir parameter of 15.8 mmol dye/g adsorbent. For Eriochrome Blue Black R only 1.94 mmol dye/g chitosan is adsorbed. Langmuir parameters for the Alizarin adsorption on both iron oxides display one or two orders of magnitude lower than for chitosan and two orders of magnitude lower in the case of Eriochrome Blue Black R. Fluorescein does not adsorb in appreciable amounts on chitosan and it presents the lower affinity on the iron oxides.

Carotenoids production: microorganisms as source of natural dyes

Carotenoids are natural dyes synthesized by plants, algae and microorganisms. Application in many sectors can be found, as food dyeing and supplementation, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and animal feed. Recent investigations have shown their ability to reduce the risks for many degenerative diseases like cancer, heart diseases, cataract and macular degeneration. An advantage of microbial carotenoids is the fact that the cultivation in controlled conditions is not dependent of climate, season or soil composition. In this review the advances in bio-production of carotenoids are presented, discussing the main factors that influence the microbial production of these dyes in different systems.

TUNGSTOPHOSPHORIC ACID HETEROGENIZED ONTO NH4ZSM5 AS AN EFFICIENT AND RECYCLABLE CATALYST FOR THE PHOTOCATALYTIC DEGRADATION OF DYES

Materials based on tungstophosphoric acid (TPA) immobilized on NH4ZSM5 zeolite were prepared by wet impregnation of the zeolite matrix with TPA aqueous solutions. Their concentration was varied in order to obtain TPA contents of 5%, 10%, 20%, and 30% w/w in the solid. The materials were characterized by N2 adsorption-desorption isotherms, XRD, FT-IR, 31P MAS-NMR, TGA-DSC, DRS-UV-Vis, and the acidic behavior was studied by potentiometric titration with n-butylamine. The BET surface area (SBET) decreased when the TPA content was raised as a result of zeolite pore blocking. The X-ray diffraction patterns of the solids modified with TPA only presented the characteristic peaks of NH4ZSM5 zeolites, and an additional set of peaks assigned to the presence of (NH4)3PW12O40. According to the Fourier transform infrared and 31P magic angle spinning-nuclear magnetic resonance spectra, the main species present in the samples was the [PW12O40]3- anion, which was partially transformed into the [P2W21O71]6- anion during the synthesis and drying steps. The thermal stability of the NH4ZSM5TPA materials was similar to that of their parent zeolites. Moreover, the samples with the highest TPA content exhibited band gap energy values similar to those reported for TiO2. The immobilization of TPA on NH4ZSM5 zeolite allowed the obtention of catalysts with high photocatalytic activity in the degradation of methyl orange dye (MO) in water, at 25 ºC. These can be reused at least three times without any significant decrease in degree of degradation.

Synthesis and characterization of Fe(III)-doped ceramic membranes of titanium dioxide and its application in photoelectrocatalysis of a textile dye

Pure and Fe(III)-doped TiO2 suspensions were prepared by the sol gel method with the use of titanium isopropoxide (Ti(OPri)4) as precursor material. The properties of doped materials were compared to TiO2 properties based on the characterization by thermal analysis (TG-DTA and DSC), X-ray powder diffractometry and spectroscopy measurements (FTIR). Both undoped and doped TiO2 suspensions were used to coat metallic substrate as a mean to make thin-film electrodes. Thermal treatment of the precursors at 400ºC for 2 h in air resulted in the formation of nanocrystalline anatase TiO2. The thin-film electrodes were tested with respect to their photocatalytic performance for degradation of a textile dye in aqueous solution. The plain TiO2 remains as the best catalyst at the conditions used in this report.

Finnish buyers’ perceptions of Indian textile and clothing suppliers: Country of origin in focus

Choosing the right supplier is crucial for long-term business prospects and profitability. Thus organizational buyers are naturally very interested in how they can select the right supplier for their needs. Likewise, suppliers are interested in knowing how their customers make purchasing decisions in order to effectively sell and market to them. From the point of view of the textile and clothing (T&C) industry, regulatory changes and increasing low-cost and globalization pressures have led to the rise of low-cost production locations India and China as the world’s largest T&C producers. This thesis will examine T&C trade between Finland and India specifically in the context of non-industrial T&C products. Its main research problem asks: what perceptions do Finnish T&C industry buyers hold of India and Indian suppliers? B2B buyers use various supplier selection models and criteria in making their purchase decisions. A significant amount of research has been done into supplier selection practices, and in the context of international trade, country of origin (COO) perceptions specifically have garnered much attention. This thesis uses a mixed methods approach (online questionnaire and in-depth interviews) to evaluate Finnish T&C buyers’ supplier selection criteria, COO perceptions of India and experiences of Indian suppliers. It was found that the most important supplier selection criteria used by Finnish T&C buyers are quality, reliability and cost. COO perceptions were not found to be influential in purchasing process. Indian T&C suppliers’ strengths were found to be low cost, flexibility and a history of traditional T&C expertise. Their weaknesses include product quality and unreliable delivery times. Overall, the main challenges that need to be overcome by Indian T&C companies are logistical difficulties and the cost vs. quality trade-off. Despite positive perceptions of India for cost, the overall value offered by Indian T&C products was perceived to be low due to poor quality. Unreliable delivery time experiences also affected buyer’s reliability perceptions of Indian suppliers. The main limiting factors of this thesis relate to the small sample size used in the research. This limits the generalizability of results and the ability to evaluate the reliability and validity of some of the research instruments.