Fashionline: CSR case of a U.K. fashion retailer

This paper presents findings from a corporate social responsibility (CSR) case-study of a UK fashion retailer informed through 22 multi-level internal and 5 external semi-structured interviews. Our research explores the relationship between various stakeholders and their perceptions of CSR issues. Sixteen themes emerge. We find disparity in CSR perceptions at different levels of organization and in views of consumers. Our recommendations are that the UK fashion retailer needs to – better understand normative purpose of CSR and in doing so balance social and environmental factors more equally; engage more widely at an early stage with broader stakeholders (global supply chain; consumers, employees, local populations, regulators, industry players); and better communicate (at different levels internally) along with integrate (external policy makers and with industry) design and implementation of CSR strategies. The authors conclude a gap remains for better CSR frameworks for the UK fashion retailer.

The role of entrepreneurial networking on internationalization of a micro-sized Born Global Swedish fashion company : A narrative ethnographic research

Background: In recent studies a lot of attention is drawn to the connection between networking and entrepreneurship. Many scholars consider successful business and networking inseparable. Taking into consideration the topicality of the two notions discussed above the authors of this thesis decided to conduct the research dedicated to these phenomena in the field that interests them most – in the field of Swedish fashion. Purpose: The purpose of the thesis is to gain a deeper insight into entrepreneur’s experiences to point out the role of entrepreneurial networking in the process of internationalization of a micro-sized Swedish fashion company and to contribute to the research in this field by telling its unique story. Method: To achieve the purpose of the research a narrative ethnographic research was conducted. This research strategy was chosen because it suits the purpose best by giving an opportunity to get fresh insights into the field of entrepreneurial networking from the point of view of the entrepreneur. The data collected has a narrative nature therefore narrative analysis is used to present it. The methods of gathering the data are face-to-face interview and documents. Conclusion: we can define the most important role of entrepreneurial networking on the internationalization process of Odeur as an effective accelerator and a tool to fulfil the knowledge and expertise gaps in certain areas through other actors in the network.

Medical treatment and the good death: an ethical analysis of euthanasia, physician assisted suicide, and the right to die

Frequent advances in medical technologies have brought fonh many innovative treatments that allow medical teams to treal many patients with grave illness and serious trauma who would have died only a few years earlier. These changes have given some patients a second chance at life, but for others. these new treatments have merely prolonged their dying. Instead of dying relatively painlessly, these unfortunate patients often suffer from painful tenninal illnesses or exist in a comatose state that robs them of their dignity, since they cannot survive without advanced and often dehumanizing forms of treatment. Due to many of these concerns, euthanasia has become a central issue in medical ethics. Additionally, the debate is impacted by those who believe that patients have the right make choices about the method and timing of their deaths. Euthanasia is defined as a deliberate act by a physician to hasten the death of a patient, whether through active methods such as an injection of morphine, or through the withdrawal of advanced forms of medical care, for reasons of mercy because of a medical condition that they have. This study explores the question of whether euthanasia is an ethical practice and, as determined by ethical theories and professional codes of ethics, whether the physician is allowed to provide the means to give the patient a path to a "good death," rather than one filled with physical and mental suffering. The paper also asks if there is a relevant moral difference between the active and passive forms of euthanasia and seeks to define requirements to ensure fully voluntary decision making through an evaluation of the factors necessary to produce fully informed consent. Additionally, the proper treatments for patients who suffer from painful terminal illnesses, those who exist in persistent vegetative states and infants born with many diverse medical problems are examined. The ultimate conclusions that are reached in the paper are that euthanasia is an ethical practice in certain specific circumstances for patients who have a very low quality of life due to pain, illness or serious mental deficits as a result of irreversible coma, persistent vegetative state or end-stage clinical dementia. This is defended by the fact that the rights of the patient to determine his or her own fate and to autonomously decide the way that he or she dies are paramount to all other factors in decisions of life and death. There are also circumstances where decisions can be made by health care teams in conjunction with the family to hasten the deaths of incompetent patients when continued existence is clearly not in their best interest, as is the case of infants who are born with serious physical anomalies, who are either 'born dying' or have no prospect for a life that is of a reasonable quality. I have rejected the distinction between active and passive methods of euthanasia and have instead chosen to focus on the intentions of the treating physician and the voluntary nature of the patient's request. When applied in equivalent circumstances, active and passive methods of euthanasia produce the same effects, and if the choice to hasten the death of the patient is ethical, then the use of either method can be accepted. The use of active methods of euthanasia and active forms of withdrawal of life support, such as the removal of a respirator are both conscious decisions to end the life of the patient and both bring death within a short period of time. It is false to maintain a distinction that believes that one is active killing. whereas the other form only allows nature to take it's course. Both are conscious choices to hasten the patient's death and should be evaluated as such. Additionally, through an examination of the Hippocratic Oath, and statements made by the American Medical Association and the American College of physicians, it can be shown that the ideals that the medical profession maintains and the respect for the interests of the patient that it holds allows the physician to give aid to patients who wish to choose death as an alternative to continued suffering. The physician is also allowed to and in some circumstances, is morally required, to help dying patients whether through active or passive forms of euthanasia or through assisted suicide. Euthanasia is a difficult topic to think about, but in the end, we should support the choice that respects the patient's autonomous choice or clear best interest and the respect that we have for their dignity and personal worth.

São Paulo Fashion Week e a transformação da indústria criativa da moda no Brasil

Transformações relacionadas às Indústrias Criativas (ICs) dos países emergentes têm sido objeto de interesse de estudos acadêmicos. Entretanto, pesquisadores dos Estudos Organizacionais ainda não realizaram investigações relacionadas a transformações na Indústria Criativa da Moda (ICM). A ICM vem, de fato, sendo negligenciada por esse campo de estudos. Este trabalho visa, portanto, preencher essa lacuna. Para tanto, realizou-se um estudo de caso descritivo sobre a SPFW (São Paulo Fashion Week). O objetivo do estudo foi examinar como agentes relacionados a essa semana de moda internacional contribuíram, por meio de atividades discursivas, para transformar a prática da ICM no Brasil – de copiar moda de luxo estrangeira a desenvolver moda “nacional”. Como perspectiva teórica foi adotada a lente teórica “Discurso e Instituições”. Foram analisados textos produzidos por agentes relacionados à SPFW entre 1994 a 2011, tais como press releases, documentários e reportagens sobre os eventos. Foram realizadas, ainda, entrevistas com 13 profissionais do setor. O estudo levou a concluir que agentes relacionados à SPFW transformaram a prática da ICM pela produção e disseminação de textos que formaram o discurso “A ICM do Brasil produz moda própria, contemporânea e sofisticada” – de acordo com seus interesses. A aceitação dessa “nova realidade” pelos indivíduos, constituída por esse discurso, possibilitou um novo entendimento sobre a prática de produção da ICM: ser recomendável desenvolver moda própria, ao invés de ser aceitável copiar moda estrangeira. Tal formação discursiva, todavia, não ocorreu sem conflitos e disputas entre agentes. Também não ocorreu num vácuo social, mas foi favorecida por acontecimentos no contexto da globalização: crise da indústria têxtil, aumento na disponibilidade de informações, aversão à chegada de bens de luxo importados ao país, boom das modelos brasileiras.

A comparative study of internationalization potential for Italian SMEs in the fashion industry in Brazil and Russia

Este estudo tem como objetivo desenvolver uma análise comparativa do potencial de internacionalização na Rússia e no Brasil para as PME italianas que operam na indústria da moda. Depois de apresentar ao leitor as principais áreas cobertas, tais como, o contexto, a metodologia e revisão da literatura, é fornecido um panorama macroeconômico das áreas geográficas composto, englobando um estudo específico sobre o estado atual da economia e da demanda para os bens italianos. O estudo, introduzindo o leitor na indústria de moda italiana, suas principais características e o desempenho atual, já evidencia a busca pela internacionalização. As conclusões decorrentes das análises macroeconômicas funcionam como introdução à visão geral da indústria de moda italiana, uma indústria que representa, fortemente, o "Made in Italy" no exterior. A breve análise da história desta indústria, principais características e situação atual irão, então, sugerir que a internacionalização é o caminho mais viável às PME, para se recuperarem dos anos turbulentos da crise. Entre o vasto conjunto de opções geográficas que as PME têm para abraçar internacionalização, este estudo tem como objetivo fornecer duas análises sobre a indústria da moda: o mercado russo e o brasileiro. A análise, com base no quadro de capacidade de ‘resposta internacional’ proposto por Bartlet e Ghoshal (1989), apresenta os resultados de um conjunto de pesquisas e entrevistas realizadas no Brasil, na Itália e na Rússia, sob a forma de uma análise comparativa dos dois mercados-alvo. A análise evidenciará os drivers de mercado, custo, competitividade e legislação que justificam o processo de internacionalização em ambos os mercados. Os resultados levam à conclusão e às recomendações que os dois mercados representam duas oportunidades muito diferentes para as PME da indústria da moda italiana.

São Paulo fashion district: modelos de parcerias para viabilizar um polo criativo de moda em São Paulo

Este artigo apresenta modelos de parcerias que podem ser celebrados pela prefeitura de São Paulo com a finalidade de estruturar um cluster de moda na região da luz, centro do município. A escolha do setor têxtil para a proposta se baseou na importância que esta indústria tem na cidade de São Paulo e no seu potencial de crescimento, tendo em vista a baixa qualificação e inovação apontada pelos dados do setor. A delimitação da região da luz considerou a vocação da região já ocupada pelo comércio de moda e por ser uma região estratégica para o município. Com esse artigo objetiva-se projetar a cidade de São Paulo como grande produtor de moda no mundo e recuperar a região da luz por meio de parcerias com parceiros privados, ou seja, com ações com baixo impacto no orçamento municipal.

Ecommerce as internationalization strategy: an exploratory study based on premium fashion brazilian brands: case study of farfetch

As stated by Hoffmann and Coste-Manière (2012) “The web is a mass medium that contrast completely with the traditional codes of exclusivity associated with the luxury industry, and has long been simply rejected by the luxury industry for being an illegitimate distribution channel.” Meanwhile this market presents an incomparable pace of growth and is gradually changing the existing retailing business model and companies must be aware of this change and capable to adapt to it. The internet and cross-border sales already changed the competition throughout retailing and it will increase even more, so companies must be ready to face it. Internet has shown its great opportunity for all markets, although luxury/premium market is not yet taking the proper advantage of its potential, but the necessity to be an omnichannel business strategy is growing. This paper presents an exploratory research based on a case study of how premium fashion Brazilian brands are using Farfetch, e-commerce, as an entry market strategy and how this affects them. The research question of this study is: How is Farfetch helping on the internationalization of Brazilian premium fashion brands?, and in order to answer it was conducted an in-depth interview with the Brazilian head of business development of Farfetch, apart an extensive secondary data research. As expected the study found a list of trade-offs of using an e-commerce, luxury specialized, with a marketplace approach to the brands willing to internationalize. As stated by Altagamma and McKinsey (2015) study “[...] luxury brands have no choice but to embrace the digital era and become truly omnichannel. This will require them a radical rethinking of both their customer experience of their consumer engagement strategy.” Looking either from the Farfetch point of view, trying to understand why they offer this opportunity to the brands, or also from the brand side if this is a manageable approach. This study presents a contribution for both sides, trying to give tools to the brands on understanding the internationalization reasons and approach, as well as explaining Farfetch business model, and the advantages it can bring to them, at the same time of a general market trend analysis for Farfecth.

Illegitimate identity in the middle of an ideological crisis and tensions in the consumption network: a study on why plus-size fashion brands are illegitimate fashion elements

O presente trabalho explora as causas pelas quais o campo da moda plus size carece de legitimidade com as consumidoras plus size. Eu explorei o assunto em três artigos. No primeiro, eu estudo o processo de legitimação de um novo mercado emergente, o mercado da moda plus size brasileira e os desafios para sua a institucionalização. Eu conduzi dezessete entrevistas com consumidoras plus size, uma netnografia em quatro blogs de moda plus size brasileiros e analisei de maneira semiótica um site que vende roupas de moda plus size. Meus resultados indicam que, apesar de ter atores legítimos que promovem essas marcas de moda plus size, o campo da moda plus size ainda é percebido como uma versão vergonhosa do campo da moda. Defendo aqui que o fato de uma das lógicas de campo da moda plus size ser estigma, acaba afetando os projetos identitários das consumidoras de maneira depreciativa, de forma elas não se envolvem em práticas de capital cultural que ocorrem dentro do campo da moda plus size. No segundo artigo, eu conduzi uma introspecção genealógica em que eu pesquisei questões de identidade. Como uma mulher (que se assume ) plus size, eu imaginei que seria relevante para olhar para dentro de mim mesma, a fim de explorar a forma como a minha identidade liga-se com a rede semiótica-material que me rodeia em termos de moda, alimentos e outros elementos. Meus dados vieram tanto de técnicas de introspecção simultâneas, quanto retrospectivas. Em termos teóricos, eu usei a ideia de ―assemblages‖ e eu foquei minha análise tanto nos aspectos materiais da minha rede de consumo, quanto na estabilidade da rede. As consequências da minha assemblage estão ligadas a uma gestão de qualidade total da minha identidade, tanto online como off-line, refletidas em práticas de consumo que se conectam à ideia de uma lógica de consumo bulímica em que o consumo de alimentos e gestão corpo estão interligadas. Por fim, no meu terceiro artigo, eu explorei o conceito de identidade a partir do consumo da moda feminina plus size. Foram feitas catorze entrevistas fenomenológicas, cujos dados foram analisados a partir de uma perspectiva hermenêutica. Três categorias temáticas emergiram da análise de dados: a construção da identidade por meio da moda, elementos de identidade plus size e estratégias criativas para lidar com a falta de produtos para mulheres plus size no varejo. Entre os principais resultados, destacam-se a forma como o termo plus size atua como estigma, influenciando projetos de identidade das consumidoras, o papel do varejo no processo de estigmatização e a saga épica de compras, que envolve um "mercado negro", com a participação de vendedores. Eu concluo discutindo o papel da identidade na instabilidade do campo da moda plus size.

Male Homosexuality in Brazilian Indexing Languages: Some Ethical Questions

Studies on ethics in information organization have deeply contributed to the recognition of the social dimension of Information Science. The subject approach to information is linked to an ethical dimension because one of its major concerns is related to its reliability and usefulness in a specific discursive community or knowledge domain. In this direction, we propose, through an exploratory research design with qualitative and inductive characteristics, to identify the specific terminology that Brazilian indexing languages allow for terms relating to male homosexuality. We also analyzed the terms assigned to papers published in the Journal of Homosexuality, Sexualities and Journal of Gay & Lesbian Mental Health between the years 2005 to 2009. From this analysis of terms and the Brazilian indexing languages, we see (1) the Brazilian context, (2) imprecision in the terminology, (3) indications of prejudices disseminated by political correctness, (4) biased representation of the subject matter, (5) and the presence of figures of speech.