Predicción del remonte extremo en playas : aplicación a los sectores litorales de la costa española

El remonte extremo o remonte del 2% es un parámetro clave en la ingeniería costera dado que permite acometer actuaciones en las playas bajo criterios de sostenibilidad económico y socioambiental. Estas actuaciones van desde el diseño de estructuras en el trasdós de la playa a planes de actuación urbanística en la costa tal que se determine adecuadamente los límites de dominio público. El adecuado diseño de estas actuaciones adquiere más relevancia hoy en día debido a las nuevas amenazas que se ponen de relieve debido al cambio climático, y que en el caso concreto de la costa se materializa en inundaciones que provocan pérdidas económicas. Estudios precedentes han realizado ensayos in situ o en modelo físico para la determinación del remonte extremo en playas. Al comparar estas formulaciones la dispersión es alta lo que implica que la precisión en la obtención del remonte no sea suficiente. Esta dispersión se justifica debido al amplio espectro de playas existentes y la alta variabilidad del clima marítimo. Este problema cobra más relevancia debido a las actuaciones preventivas o correctivas a acometer frente al cambio climático bajo un criterio de sostenibilidad. Con el fin de realizar actuaciones sostenibles bajo el contexto actual del probable aumento de inundaciones costeras por cambio climático no deben obtenerse ni magnitudes sobredimensionadas con el consecuente consumo de recursos y afección a las actividades económicas, ni magnitudes subestimadas que pongan en riesgo la estabilidad y/o la funcionalidad de las actuaciones para un periodo de diseño. El principal objetivo de esta tesis es proponer una formulación de aplicación en la obtención del remonte extremo tal que se cumplan los criterios de seguridad para el servicio y funcionalidad de la obra y los criterios de sostenibilidad económico y socio-ambiental que se requieren hoy en día. Es decir, una fórmula que no sobredimensione el cálculo de este valor pero que pueda cubrir la casuística que acontece en las distintas tipologías de playas. Complementariamente a este objetivo se ejemplifica la aplicación de estas formulaciones en casos reales tal que se reduzca la incertidumbre y ambigüedad en la obtención de las variables independientes de las formulaciones. Para la consecución de estos objetivos se realiza un estado del arte en el que se estudia tanto los estudios estadísticos en la obtención de este parámetro como los modelos numéricos propuestos para ello, tal que se deduzca la mejor línea de investigación en la consecución del fin de esta tesis. Tras este estudio del arte se concluye que la mejor línea de investigación sigue la vía estadística y se diseña un modelo físico con fondo de arena en contraste con modelos físicos con fondo impermeable fijo. Los resultados de dicho modelo se han comparado con las formulaciones precedentes y se proponen las fórmulas de aplicación más convenientes para la obtención del remonte extremo. Complementariamente a la propuesta de formulaciones se desarrolla una metodología de aplicación de dichas formulaciones a casos de la costa española que ejemplifican convenientemente su uso para una adecuada predicción de este valor en las playas. The extreme runup is a key parameter in coastal management. This parameter allows to develop sustainability actions at the coast that meet economical and environmental criteria. At the coast the actions can be either design of structures at the shore or actions plans delimiting reclamation areas. The climate change has given more relevance to accomplish an appropriate design for the coastal management actions. At the coast the threaten are mainly focused on more frequent floods that cause economic losses. Previous studies have carried out field or physical model experiments to accomplish an equation for the extreme runup prediction. Although dispersion remains high when comparing the different proposals so the accuracy in the prediction might be risky. This scattering comes from the wide sort of beaches and the high variability of the maritime climate. The new actions that are needed to develop to counteract the effects of the climate change need a more efficient criteria. Hence formulations should not overestimate or underestimate the values of the extreme runup. The overestimation implies to consume resources that are not needed and the underestimation means in a structure risk to support safely the loads. The main goal of this thesis is to propose a formulation for the extreme runup prediction so the safety of the structure can be accomplished but at the same time the sustainability of the action is ensured under economical and environmental criteria that are demanded nowadays. So the formulation does not overestimate the extreme value but cover with enough confidence the different sort of beaches. The application of the formulation is also explained in order to reduce uncertainty when the input values are obtained. In order to accomplish the goal of this research firstly a literature review is done. Statistical and numerical models are studied. The statistical model is selected as the most convenient research guideline. In order to obtain runup results a physical model with sand bed is carried out. The bed differs from those that used impermeable slope in previous experiments. Once the results are obtained they are compared with the previous equations and a final formulation is proposed. Finally a methodology to apply the deduced formulation to the Spanish beaches is addressed.

Perfil de playas sustentadas : estudio hidrodinámico y experimental : directrices de diseño

Las playas sustentadas por medio de un pie sumergido son una atractiva alternativa de diseño de regeneración de playas especialmente cuando las condiciones física del emplazamiento o las características de la arena nativa y de préstamo producen perfiles de alimentación que no se intersectan. La observación y propuesta de este tipo de solución data de los años 1960’s, así como la experiencia internacional en la construcción de este tipo de playas. Sin embargo, a pesar de su utilización y los estudios en campo y laboratorio, no se dispone de criterios ingenieriles que apoyen el diseño de las mismas. Esta tesis consiste en un análisis experimental del perfil de playas sustentadas en un pie sumergido (o colgadas) que se concreta en una propuesta de directrices de diseño general que permiten estimar la ubicación y características geométricas del pie sumergido frente a un oleaje y material que constituye la playa determinados. En la tesis se describe el experimento bidimensional realizado en el modelo físico de fondo móvil, donde se combinan cinco tipos de oleaje con tres configuraciones del pie sumergido (“Sin estructura”, configuración baja o “Estructura 1” y configuración alta o “Estructura 2”), se presentan los resultados obtenidos y se realiza una discusión detallada de las implicaciones de los resultados desde el punto de vista hidrodinámico utilizando monomios adimensionales. Se ha realizado un análisis detallado del estado del arte sobre playas colgadas, presentando el concepto y las experiencias de realizaciones en distintos países. Se ha realizado una cuidadosa revisión de la literatura publicada sobre estudios experimentales de playas colgadas, modelos teóricos y otras cuestiones auxiliares, necesarias para la formulación de la metodología de la tesis. El estudio realizado se ha estructurado en dos fases. En la primera fase se ha realizado una experimentación en un modelo físico de fondo móvil construido en las instalaciones del Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEPYC) del Centro de Estudios y Experimentación de Obras Públicas (CEDEX), consistente en un canal de 36 m de longitud, 3 m de anchura y 1.5 m de altura, provisto de un generador de oleaje de tipo pistón. Se ha diseñado una campaña de 15 ensayos, que se obtienen sometiendo a cinco tipos de oleaje tres configuraciones distintas de playa colgada. En los ensayos se ha medido el perfil de playa en distintos instantes hasta llegar al equilibrio, determinando a partir de esos datos el retroceso de la línea de costa y el volumen de sedimentos perdido. El tiempo total efectivo de ensayo asciende a casi 650 horas, y el número de perfiles de evolución de playa obtenidos totaliza 229. En la segunda fase se ha abordado el análisis de los resultados obtenidos con la finalidad de comprender el fenómeno, identificar las variables de las que depende y proponer unas directrices ingenieriles de diseño. Se ha estudiado el efecto de la altura de ola, del periodo del oleaje, del francobordo adimensional y del parámetro de Dean, constatándose la dificultad de comprensión del funcionamiento de estas obras ya que pueden ser beneficiosas, perjudiciales o inocuas según los casos. También se ha estudiado la respuesta del perfil de playa en función de otros monomios adimensionales, tales como el número de Reynolds o el de Froude. En el análisis se ha elegido el monomio “plunger” como el más significativo, encontrando relaciones de éste con el peralte de oleaje, la anchura de coronación adimensional, la altura del pie de playa adimensional y el parámetro de Dean. Finalmente, se propone un método de diseño de cuatro pasos que permite realizar un primer encaje del diseño funcional de la playa sustentada frente a un oleaje de características determinadas. Las contribuciones más significativas desde el punto de vista científico son: - La obtención del juego de resultados experimentales. - La caracterización del comportamiento de las playas sustentadas. - Las relaciones propuestas entre el monomio plunger y las distintas variables explicativas seleccionadas, que permiten predecir el comportamiento de la obra. - El método de diseño propuesto, en cuatro pasos, para este tipo de esquemas de defensa de costas. Perched beaches are an attractive beach nourishment design alternative especially when either the site conditions or the characteristics of both the native and the borrow sand lead to a non-intersecting profile The observation and suggestion of the use of this type of coastal defence scheme dates back to the 1960’s, as well as the international experience in the construction of this type of beaches. However, in spite of its use and the field and laboratory studies performed to-date, no design engineering guidance is available to support its design. This dissertation is based on the experimental work performed on a movable bed physical model and the use of dimensionless parameters in analyzing the results to provide general functional design guidance that allow the designer, at a particular stretch of coast - to estimate the location and geometric characteristics of the submerged sill as well as to estimate the suitable sand size to be used in the nourishment. This dissertation consists on an experimental analysis of perched beaches by means of a submerged sill, leading to the proposal of general design guidance that allows to estimate the location and geometric characteristics of the submerged sill when facing a wave condition and for a given beach material. The experimental work performed on a bi-dimensional movable bed physical model, where five types of wave conditions are combined with three configurations of the submerged sill (“No structure”, low structure or “Structure 1”, and high structure or “Structure 2”) is described, results are presented, and a detailed discussion of the results - from the hydrodynamic point of view – of the implications of the results by using dimensionless parameters is carried out. A detailed state of the art analysis about perched beaches has been performed, presenting the “perched beach concept” and the case studies of different countries. Besides, a careful revision of the literature about experimental studies on perched beaches, theoretical models, and other topics deemed necessary to formulate the methodology of this work has been completed. The study has been divided into two phases. Within the first phase, experiments on a movable-bed physical model have been developed. The physical model has been built in the Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEPYC) facilities, Centro de Estudios y Experimentación de Obras Públicas (CEDEX). The wave flume is 36 m long, 3 m wide and 1.5 m high, and has a piston-type regular wave generator available. The test plan consisted of 15 tests resulting from five wave conditions attacking three different configurations of the perched beach. During the development of the tests, the beach profile has been surveyed at different intervals until equilibrium has been reached according to these measurements. Retreat of the shoreline and relative loss of sediment in volume have been obtained from the measurements. The total effective test time reaches nearly 650 hours, whereas the total number of beach evolution profiles measured amounts to 229. On the second phase, attention is focused on the analysis of results with the aim of understanding the phenomenon, identifying the governing variables and proposing engineering design guidelines. The effect of the wave height, the wave period, the dimensionless freeboard and of the Dean parameter have been analyzed. It has been pointed out the difficulty in understanding the way perched beaches work since they turned out to be beneficial, neutral or harmful according to wave conditions and structure configuration. Besides, the beach profile response as a function of other dimensionless parameters, such as Reynolds number or Froude number, has been studied. In this analysis, the “plunger” parameter has been selected as the most representative, and relationships between the plunger parameter and the wave steepness, the dimensionless crest width, the dimensionless crest height, and the Dean parameter have been identified. Finally, an engineering 4-step design method has been proposed, that allows for the preliminary functional design of the perched beach for a given wave condition. The most relevant contributions from the scientific point of view have been: - The acquisition of a consistent set of experimental results. - The characterization of the behavior of perched beaches. - The proposed relationships between the plunger parameter and the different explanatory variables selected, that allow for the prediction of the beach behavior. - The proposed design method, four-step method, for this type of coastal defense schemes.

Philopatry of male marine turtles inferred from mitochondrial DNA markers

Recent studies of mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) variation among marine turtle populations are consistent with the hypothesis that females return to beaches in their natal region to nest as adults. In contrast, less is known about breeding migrations of male marine turtles and whether they too are philopatric to natal regions. Studies of geographic structuring of restriction fragment and microsatellite polymorphisms at anonymous nuclear loci in green turtle (Chelonia mydas) populations indicate that nuclear gene flow is higher than estimates from mtDNA analyses. Regional populations from the northern and southern Great Barrier Reef were distinct for mtDNA but indistinguishable at nuclear loci, whereas the Gulf of Carpentaria (northern Australia) population was distinct for both types of marker. To assess whether this result was due to reduced philopatry of males across the Great Barrier Reef, we determined the mtDNA haplotypes of breeding males at courtship areas for comparison with breeding females from the same three locations. We used a PCR-restriction fragment length polymorphism approach to determine control region haplotypes and designed mismatch primers for the identification of specific haplotypes. The mtDNA haplotype frequencies were not significantly different between males and females at any of the three areas and estimates of Fst among the regions were similar for males and females (Fst = 0.78 and 0.73, respectively). We conclude that breeding males, like females, are philopatric to courtship areas within their natal region. Nuclear gene flow between populations is most likely occurring through matings during migrations of both males and females through nonnatal courtship areas.

Nesting In The Clouds: Evaluating And Predicting Sea Turtle Nesting Beach Parameters From Lidar Data

Humans' desire for knowledge regarding animal species and their interactions with the natural world have spurred centuries of studies. The relatively new development of remote sensing systems using satellite or aircraft-borne sensors has opened up a wide field of research, which unfortunately largely remains dependent on coarse-scale image spatial resolution, particularly for habitat modeling. For habitat-specialized species, such data may not be sufficient to successfully capture the nuances of their preferred areas. Of particular concern are those species for which topographic feature attributes are a main limiting factor for habitat use. Coarse spatial resolution data can smooth over details that may be essential for habitat characterization. Three studies focusing on sea turtle nesting beaches were completed to serve as an example of how topography can be a main deciding factor for certain species. Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR) data were used to illustrate that fine spatial scale data can provide information not readily captured by either field work or coarser spatial scale sources. The variables extracted from the LiDAR data could successfully model nesting density for loggerhead (Caretta caretta), green (Chelonia mydas), and leatherback (Dermochelys coriacea) sea turtle species using morphological beach characteristics, highlight beach changes over time and their correlations with nesting success, and provide comparisons for nesting density models across large geographic areas. Comparisons between the LiDAR dataset and other digital elevation models (DEMs) confirmed that fine spatial scale data sources provide more similar habitat information than those with coarser spatial scales. Although these studies focused solely on sea turtles, the underlying principles are applicable for many other wildlife species whose range and behavior may be influenced by topographic features.

Playas y paseos marítimos. El nuevo paisaje urbano de Benidorm (1956-1986)

Esta comunicación recorre la evolución del paisaje urbano de Benidorm, como ciudad vertical (acotado entre dos fechas clave: 1956 y 1986), con la aprobación de su PGOU, inspirado en un urbanismo funcionalista (CIAM), enfocado a un turismo de masas en aumento año tras año. Acontecimientos, turismo y planeamiento justificaban las diferentes ampliaciones urbanas de Benidorm, sometidas a constantes modificaciones y que se reflejaba en una libertad a través del análisis y relación entre el nuevo skyline vertical (de bloques y rascacielos de uso privado) y el tándem paseo marítimo-playa (de espacios urbanos de uso público). Para este seguimiento se hace necesario conocer cómo se construye la propia ciudad y, en particular, sus nuevos frentes marítimos que constituyen la postal más importante de cualquier ciudad turística litoral –su imagen–, la que se publicita como reclamo: la fachada que se extiende tras sus playas y cuyo éxito depende de la capacidad de articulación los espacios públicos que entrelazan la trama urbana con su frontera marítima.

The Composition of Holocene Aeolianites; Western Eyre Peninsula, Great Australian Bight, South Australia

The Australian southern continental margin is the world’s largest site of cool-water carbonate deposition, and the Great Australian Bight is its largest sector. The Eyre Peninsula is fringed by coastal beaches with aeolianites and marks the eastern edge of the Great Australian Bight. Five shoreline transects of varying lengths spanned a 150km longitudinal distance and at each the intertidal, beach, dune and secondary dune environments were sampled, for a total of 18 samples. Sediments are a mixture of modern, relict, and Cenozoic carbonates, and quartz grains. Carbonate aeolianites on the western Eyre Peninsula are mostly composed of modern carbonate grains: predominantly molluscs (23-33%) and benthic foraminifera (10-26%), locally abundant coralline algae (3-28%), echinoids (2-22%), and bryozoans (2-14%). Cenozoic grain abundance ranges from 1-6% whereas relict grain abundance ranges from 0-17%. A southward increase in bryozoan particles correlates with a nutrient element abundance and decrease in temperature due to a large seasonal coastal upwelling system that drives 2-3 major upwelling events per year, bringing cold, nutrient rich, Sub-Antarctic Surface Water (<12°C) onto the shelf. In southern, mostly wind protected locations, the beach and dune sediment compositions are similar, indicating that wind energy has successfully carried all sediment components of the beach into the adjacent dunes. In northern, exposed locations, the composition is not the same everywhere, and trends indicate that relative wind energy has the ability to impact grain composition through preferential wind transport. Aeolianite composition is therefore a function of both upwelling and the degree of coastal exposure.

Caracterização geológica da bacia hidrográfica da albufeira de São domingos e avaliação da compatibilidade textural entre áreas-fonte e depósitos sedimentares

Tese de mestrado, Geologia do Ambiente, Riscos Geológicos e Ordenamento do TerritórioUniversidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Ciências, 2016

Radiocarbon ages from Novaya Zemlya, Russia

Recent observations on postglacial emergence and past glacier extent for one of the least accessible areas in the Arctic, northern Novaya Zemlya are here united. The postglacial marine limit formed 5 to 6 ka is registered on the east and west coasts of the north island at 10 ± 1 and 18 ± 2 m aht, respectively. This modest and late isostatic response along with deglacial ages of >9.2 ka on adjacent marine cores from the northern Barents Sea indicate either early (>13 ka) deglaciation or modest ice sheet loading (<1500 m thick ice sheet) of Novaya Zemlya. Older and higher (up to 50 m aht) raised beaches were identified beneath a discontinuous glacial drift. Shells from the drift and underlying sublittoral sediments yield minimum limiting 14C ages of 26 to 30 ka on an earlier deglacial event(s). The only moraines identified are within 4 km of present glacier margins and reflect at least three neoglacial advances in the past 2.4 ka.

Mineralogical compositions of sediment samples from the San Francisco Bay coastal system

The mineralogical compositions of 119 samples collected from throughout the San Francisco Bay coastal system, including bayfloor and seafloor, area beaches, cliff outcrops, and major drainages, were determined using X-ray diffraction (XRD). Comparison of the mineral concentrations and application of statistical cluster analysis of XRD spectra allowed for the determination of provenances and transport pathways. The use of XRD mineral identifications provides semi-quantitative compositions needed for comparisons of beach and offshore sands with potential cliff and river sources, but the innovative cluster analysis of XRD diffraction spectra provides a unique visualization of how groups of samples within the San Francisco Bay coastal system are related so that sand-sized sediment transport pathways can be inferred. The main vector for sediment transport as defined by the XRD analysis is from San Francisco Bay to the outer coast, where the sand then accumulates on the ebb tidal delta and also moves alongshore. This mineralogical link defines a critical pathway because large volumes of sediment have been removed from the Bay over the last century via channel dredging, aggregate mining, and borrow pit mining, with comparable volumes of erosion from the ebb tidal delta over the same period, in addition to high rates of shoreline retreat along the adjacent, open-coast beaches. Therefore, while previously only a temporal relationship was established, the transport pathway defined by mineralogical and geochemical tracers support the link between anthropogenic activities in the Bay and widespread erosion outside the Bay. The XRD results also establish the regional and local importance of sediment derived from cliff erosion, as well as both proximal and distal fluvial sources. This research is an important contribution to a broader provenance study aimed at identifying the driving forces for widespread geomorphic change in a heavily urbanized coastal-estuarine system.

The interstitial subsoil fauna on the beach of Sarso Island, Red Sea

The scope of this research was to find out, how important is the presence of brackish water for the formation of the characteristical littoral subsoil fauna in the interstitial spaces of beaches. There is little precipitation in the Red Sea area and therefore little influence of freshwater on the beach. Moreover, the sandy beach of Sarso Island (Farasan Archipelago) is bordered landwards and underneath by solid limestone, preventing subsoil fresh water, if there is any, from penetrating into the beach region. The salinity of the interstitial water from Sarso beach lies a little above the salinity of the adjacent sea. The microfauna of Sarso beach is composed to a rather big proportion of such species that are known to be characteristical littoral subsoil water species, partially of world wide distribution. The ecological analysis of this fauna, i.e. the freeliving Nematodes, reveals the presence of two distinct associations: 1. the association of the low level subsoil region, close to the sea, with clear interstitial water, subject to regular exchange with the water of the adjcent sea. 2. the association of the high level subsoil region, 4-10 meter distant from the sea, with brownish water. Contrary to earlier results there is no distinction in salinity between the two associations, so it is not longer justified to apply the term brackish water fauna on the animals living in the association of the high level subsoil region.

Sand resources on the Inner Continental Shelf of the Cape Fear region, North Carolina /

"November 1977."

Beach changes at Long Beach Island, New Jersey, 1962-73 /

Beach profile line data collected from 32 profile sites along Long Beach Island, New Jersey. A total of 2,158 profile line surveys were examined, using empirical eigenfunction analysis and other measures of beach variability. Most profile lines have shown an accretionary trend since 1962 with rates between 2.3 and 0.24 meter per year in spite of erosion estimates due to sea level rise on the order of 0.68 meter per year. A great deal of variability in profile line change takes place along the beach, increasing from north to south, due to the location of profile lines relative to structures and offshore linear shoals. Detailed closely spaced profile lines taken over a year in a groin field near the north end of the island indicate littoral transport directions shift from north to south. Evidence of a littoral transport node near the north end of the groin field has been found. Net transport of the node is toward the south, but the rate could not be established due to lack of adequate wave data. Profile line variability within groin cells shows that single profile lines are not sufficient to determine the net change within a cell. The design of future beach monitoring studies should consider coastal structures, offshore bathymetry, the method of analysis, and the scales of processes under study. A coastal storm in November 1968 moved the MSL back as much as 22 meters; however, the beach recovered without artificial measures. The offshore bathymetry shows a series of shoreface-connected linear shoals at several locations along the island. Limited data show that these have remained stable and that most beach variability takes place in water shallower than 3 meters.

Sand resources of southern Lake Erie, Conneaut to Toledo, Ohio : a seismic reflection and vibracore study /

"November 1980."

Analysis of coastal sediment transport processes from Wrightsville Beach to Fort Fisher, North Carolina /

A comprehensive engineering analysis of the coastal sediment transport processes along a 42-kilometer segment of the North Carolina shoreline from Wrightsville Beach to Fort Fisher is presented. Included in the analysis is an interpretation of the littoral processes, longshore transport, and the behavior and success of beach nourishment projects at Wrightsville Beach and Carolina Beach, North Carolina. The historical position of the MLW, MSL, and MHW contours, relative to a fixed base line, is plotted for the period between 1964 and 1975. An equivalent volumetric erosion or accretion between successive surveys is determined by multiplying the average excursion distance of the contours by a constant of proportionality. The plots of excursion distance versus time for the MLW, MSL, and MHW contours also show the time response of the beach fills. This response is described by a mathematical function. The alongshore components of wave-induced energy flux are also determined within the study area through wave refraction analysis. This information, together with the information on volumetric change, is used in a sediment budget analysis to determine the coefficient of alongshore sediment transport and the inlet trapping characteristics. (Author).