Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

When theories become practice—a metaphorical analysis of adult-education school-leaders’ talk

Marketization has changed the education system. If we say that education is a market, this transforms the understanding of education and influences how people act. In this paper, adult-education school-leaders’ talk is analysed and seven metaphors for education are found: education as administration, market, matching, democracy, policy work, integration and learning. Exploring empirical metaphors provides a rich illustration of coinciding meanings. In line with studies on policy texts, economic metaphors are found to dominate. This should be understood not only as representing liberal ideology, as is often discussed in analyses of policy papers, but also as representing economic theory. In other words, contemporary adult education can be understood as driven by economic theories. The difference and relation between ideology and theory should be further examined since they have an impact on our society and on our everyday lives.

International Branding Strategies : In Swedish and Russian Fashion Companies

There are a lot of different business strategies for any company. However, in the fashion industry, the best way to become successful is to develop the brand using special branding strategies. Hence, a brand is the main weapon for fashion companies, which helps to launch international market and to create loyal customers around the world. Nowadays, due to the difficult current political situations and the collapse of oil and the dollar a lot of companies in different industries have to change their business strategies. It is especially true for fashion companies, because they depend on consumers ' income and their purchasing power. In the case of the fashion industry, branding strategy development can be more effective, than just business strategy. Hence, this thesis discusses the following problem: What branding strategy should Russian and Swedish fashion companies choose in order to build a strong brand and enter the international market.  The purpose of this thesis is to analyze various branding strategies of Russian and Swedish fashion companies during the process of entering foreign markets. At the end of this thesis, practical contribution in their process of international branding strategy creation will be discussed. In order to answer research questions more broadly and accurately, the mixed research method, using quantitive and qualitative study through interviews and survey was chosen. Semi-structured interviews were made with the CEO and brand managers of Russian and Swedish fashion companies. Moreover, the survey was made with two different questionnaires: for Russian and for Swedish customers. In the case of qualitative research, the author found that fashion companies from Russia and Sweden have got not just some features and differences, but also common aspects. The primary data from interviews allowed the author to understand the specifics of brand management in the fashion industry. It was found, that there are some useful aspects in Swedish strategies, which can be used by Russian companies to develop their brands on the international market. In the case of quantitative research, preferences of consumers from Russia and Sweden were analyzed and also some features were identified. Survey results provided the author with a common understanding about purchase habits, attitudes and perceptions to fashion brands. According to these, some hypothesizes, which are formulated in the first part of the thesis, have been proven or disproven. It was found, that preferences of Russian and Swedish people are pretty the same, however Russian customers do not like to risk with new brands and prefer well-known and trusted brands while Swedish customers are open for any brand, which can satisfy their tastes.

The Citadel blueprint : the strategic plan for educating principled leaders

The Citadel conducted a campus-wide planning process that engaged the campus community in a discussion of the institution’s strategic goals and future vision, culminating in The Citadel’s 2009-2012 Strategic Plan. This planning document communicates The Citadel’s priorities and lays the foundation for a successful capital campaign that will take the institution to new heights of academic and leadership excellence. Building upon previous strategic planning processes, our mission, and core values, eight strategic initiatives will continue to form the foundation of the institution’s planning efforts and help define the college’s planning priorities.

Data, Software, and Advanced Computational Usage of University of Washington Research Leaders

Scientific research is increasingly data-intensive, relying more and more upon advanced computational resources to be able to answer the questions most pressing to our society at large. This report presents findings from a brief descriptive survey sent to a sample of 342 leading researchers at the University of Washington (UW), Seattle, Washington in 2010 and 2011 as the first stage of the larger National Science Foundation project “Interacting with Cyberinfrastructure in the Face of Changing Science.” This survey assesses these researcher’s use of advanced computational resources, data, and software in their research. We present high-level findings that describe UW researchers’: demographics, interdisciplinarity, research groups, data use, software and computational use—including software development and use, data storage and transfer activities, and collaboration tools, and computing resources. These findings offer insights into the state of computational resources in use during this time period as well as offering a look at the data intensiveness of UW researchers.

End-to-end Deep Metric Learning con Vision-Language Model per il Fashion Image Captioning

L'image captioning è un task di machine learning che consiste nella generazione di una didascalia, o caption, che descriva le caratteristiche di un'immagine data in input. Questo può essere applicato, ad esempio, per descrivere in dettaglio i prodotti in vendita su un sito di e-commerce, migliorando l'accessibilità del sito web e permettendo un acquisto più consapevole ai clienti con difficoltà visive. La generazione di descrizioni accurate per gli articoli di moda online è importante non solo per migliorare le esperienze di acquisto dei clienti, ma anche per aumentare le vendite online. Oltre alla necessità di presentare correttamente gli attributi degli articoli, infatti, descrivere i propri prodotti con il giusto linguaggio può contribuire a catturare l'attenzione dei clienti. In questa tesi, ci poniamo l'obiettivo di sviluppare un sistema in grado di generare una caption che descriva in modo dettagliato l'immagine di un prodotto dell'industria della moda dato in input, sia esso un capo di vestiario o un qualche tipo di accessorio. A questo proposito, negli ultimi anni molti studi hanno proposto soluzioni basate su reti convoluzionali e LSTM. In questo progetto proponiamo invece un'architettura encoder-decoder, che utilizza il modello Vision Transformer per la codifica delle immagini e GPT-2 per la generazione dei testi. Studiamo inoltre come tecniche di deep metric learning applicate in end-to-end durante l'addestramento influenzino le metriche e la qualità delle caption generate dal nostro modello.

Sustainable futuring. Learning and unlearning the past A critical discourse study of ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in Vogue Italia (1965-2021)

Recent scholarly works on the relationship between ‘fashion’ and ‘sustainability’ have identified a need for a systemic transition towards fashion media ‘for sustaianbility’. Nevertheless, the academic research on the topic is still limited and rather circumscribed to the analysis of marketing practices, while only recently some more systemic and critical analyses of the symbolic production of sustainability through fashion media have been undertaken. Responding to this need for an in-depth investigation of ‘sustainability’-related media production, my research focuses on the ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in the context of one of the most influential fashion magazines today – Vogue Italia. In order to investigate the ways in which the ‘sustainability’ discourse was formed and has evolved, the study considered the entire Vogue Italia archive from 1965 to 2021. The data collection was carried out in two phases, and the individualised relevant discursive units were then in-depth and critically analysed to allow for a grounded assessment of the media giant’s position. The Discourse-Historical Approach provided a methodological base for the analysis, which took into consideration the various levels of context: the immediate textual and intertextual, but also the broader socio-cultural context of the predominant, over-production oriented and capital-led fashion system. The findings led to a delineation of the evolution of the ‘fashion sustainability’ discourse, unveiling how despite Vogue Italia’s auto-determination as attentive to ‘sustainability’-related topics, the magazine is systemically employing discursive strategies which significantly mitigate the meaning of the ‘sustainable commitment’ and thus the meaning of ‘fashion sustainability’.

Economia Circolare e Industria 4.0: big data come strumento di sostenibilità nell’industria del fashion

L’argomento di questa tesi nasce dall’idea di unire due temi che stanno assumendo sempre più importanza nei nostri giorni, ovvero l’economia circolare e i big data, e ha come obiettivo quello di fornire dei punti di collegamento tra questi due. In un mondo tecnologico come quello di oggi, che sta trasformando tutto quello che abbiamo tra le nostre mani in digitale, si stanno svolgendo sempre più studi per capire come la sostenibilità possa essere supportata dalle tecnologie emergenti. L’economia circolare costituisce un nuovo paradigma economico in grado di sostituirsi a modelli di crescita incentrati su una visione lineare, puntando ad una riduzione degli sprechi e ad un radicale ripensamento nella concezione dei prodotti e nel loro uso nel tempo. In questa transizione verso un’economia circolare può essere utile considerare di assumere le nuove tecnologie emergenti per semplificare i processi di produzione e attuare politiche più sostenibili, che stanno diventando sempre più apprezzate anche dai consumatori. Il tutto verrà sostenuto dall’utilizzo sempre più significativo dei big data, ovvero di grandi dati ricchi di informazioni che permettono, tramite un’attenta analisi, di sviluppare piani di produzione che seguono il paradigma circolare: questo viene attuato grazie ai nuovi sistemi digitali sempre più innovativi e alle figure specializzate che acquisiscono sempre più conoscenze in questo campo.

Fashion communication strategy: il caso Jacquemus

Il presente elaborato intende studiare la comunicazione di moda, nello specifico la comunicazione aziendale della casa di moda di lusso francese Jacquemus. Per fare ciò, si inizia approfondendo l’argomento della storia della moda e riflettendo su come essa possa essere uno strumento di comunicazione non verbale. Successivamente, si prendono in esame i concetti aziendali di Brand Identity, Brand Positioning e analisi SWOT per analizzare come l’azienda di moda francese ha costruito la sua identità di marca, come si posiziona nella mente dei consumatori e per individuare i suoi punti di forza, di debolezza, le sue opportunità di crescita e le minacce che possono, potenzialmente, ostacolarla. Infine, si prendono in considerazione le strategie di marketing attuate da Jacquemus al fine di rendere efficace la sua comunicazione d’impresa, tenendo conto dei nuovi media digitali a disposizione e concentrandosi anche sul modo in cui l’azienda è riuscita a contrastare la crisi dovuta al lockdown in piena pandemia da Covid-19.

Graph-based Vision-Language Model for Multi-Modal Retrieval of Fashion Products

Artificial Intelligence is reshaping the field of fashion industry in different ways. E-commerce retailers exploit their data through AI to enhance their search engines, make outfit suggestions and forecast the success of a specific fashion product. However, it is a challenging endeavour as the data they possess is huge, complex and multi-modal. The most common way to search for fashion products online is by matching keywords with phrases in the product's description which are often cluttered, inadequate and differ across collections and sellers. A customer may also browse an online store's taxonomy, although this is time-consuming and doesn't guarantee relevant items. With the advent of Deep Learning architectures, particularly Vision-Language models, ad-hoc solutions have been proposed to model both the product image and description to solve this problems. However, the suggested solutions do not exploit effectively the semantic or syntactic information of these modalities, and the unique qualities and relations of clothing items. In this work of thesis, a novel approach is proposed to address this issues, which aims to model and process images and text descriptions as graphs in order to exploit the relations inside and between each modality and employs specific techniques to extract syntactic and semantic information. The results obtained show promising performances on different tasks when compared to the present state-of-the-art deep learning architectures.

Epilepsies Associated With Hippocampal Sclerosis.

Hippocampal sclerosis (HS) is considered the most frequent neuropathological finding in patients with mesial temporal lobe epilepsy (MTLE). Hippocampal specimens of pharmacoresistant MTLE patients that underwent epilepsy surgery for seizure control reveal the characteristic pattern of segmental neuronal cell loss and concomitant astrogliosis. However, classification issues of hippocampal lesion patterns have been a matter of intense debate. International consensus classification has only recently provided significant progress for comparisons of neurosurgical and clinic-pathological series between different centers. The respective four-tiered classification system of the International League Against Epilepsy subdivides HS into three types and includes a term of gliosis only, no-HS. Future studies will be necessary to investigate whether each of these subtypes of HS may be related to different etiological factors or with postoperative memory and seizure outcome. Molecular studies have provided potential deeper insights into the pathogenesis of HS and MTLE on the basis of epilepsy-surgical hippocampal specimens and corresponding animal models. These include channelopathies, activation of NMDA receptors, and other conditions related to Ca(2+) influx into neurons, the imbalance of Ca(2+)-binding proteins, acquired channelopathies that increase neuronal excitability, paraneoplastic and non-paraneoplastic inflammatory events, and epigenetic regulation promoting or facilitating hippocampal epileptogenesis. Genetic predisposition for HS is clearly suggested by the high incidence of family history in patients with HS, and by familial MTLE with HS. So far, it is clear that HS is multifactorial and there is no individual pathogenic factor either necessary or sufficient to generate this intriguing histopathological condition. The obvious variety of pathogenetic combinations underlying HS may explain the multitude of clinical presentations, different responses to clinical and surgical treatment. We believe that the stratification of neuropathological patterns can help to characterize specific clinic-pathological entities and predict the postsurgical seizure control in an improved fashion.

Rapidly Switching Multidirectional Defibrillation: Reversal Of Ventricular Fibrillation With Lower Energy Shocks.

Cardiac arrest after open surgery has an incidence of approximately 3%, of which more than 50% of the cases are due to ventricular fibrillation. Electrical defibrillation is the most effective therapy for terminating cardiac arrhythmias associated with unstable hemodynamics. The excitation threshold of myocardial microstructures is lower when external electrical fields are applied in the longitudinal direction with respect to the major axis of cells. However, in the heart, cell bundles are disposed in several directions. Improved myocardial excitation and defibrillation have been achieved by applying shocks in multiple directions via intracardiac leads, but the results are controversial when the electrodes are not located within the cardiac chambers. This study was designed to test whether rapidly switching shock delivery in 3 directions could increase the efficiency of direct defibrillation. A multidirectional defibrillator and paddles bearing 3 electrodes each were developed and used in vivo for the reversal of electrically induced ventricular fibrillation in an anesthetized open-chest swine model. Direct defibrillation was performed by unidirectional and multidirectional shocks applied in an alternating fashion. Survival analysis was used to estimate the relationship between the probability of defibrillation and the shock energy. Compared with shock delivery in a single direction in the same animal population, the shock energy required for multidirectional defibrillation was 20% to 30% lower (P < .05) within a wide range of success probabilities. Rapidly switching multidirectional shock delivery required lower shock energy for ventricular fibrillation termination and may be a safer alternative for restoring cardiac sinus rhythm.

Paired Evaluation Of Calvarial Reconstruction With Prototyped Titanium Implants With And Without Ceramic Coating.

To investigate the osseointegration properties of prototyped implants with tridimensionally interconnected pores made of the Ti6Al4V alloy and the influence of a thin calcium phosphate coating. Bilateral critical size calvarial defects were created in thirty Wistar rats and filled with coated and uncoated implants in a randomized fashion. The animals were kept for 15, 45 and 90 days. Implant mechanical integration was evaluated with a push-out test. Bone-implant interface was analyzed using scanning electron microscopy. The maximum force to produce initial displacement of the implants increased during the study period, reaching values around 100N for both types of implants. Intimate contact between bone and implant was present, with progressive bone growth into the pores. No significant differences were seen between coated and uncoated implants. Adequate osseointegration can be achieved in calvarial reconstructions using prototyped Ti6Al4V Implants with the described characteristics of surface and porosity.

Gonadal Hormones Modulate The Responsiveness To Local β-blocker-induced Antinociception In The Temporomandibular Joint Of Male And Female Rats.

We have previously demonstrated that blockade of β-adrenoreceptors (β-AR) located in the temporomandibular joint (TMJ) of rats suppresses formalin-induced TMJ nociceptive behaviour in both male and female rats, but female rats are more responsive. In this study, we investigated whether gonadal hormones modulate the responsiveness to local β-blocker-induced antinociception in the TMJ of rats. Co-administration of each of the selective β1 (atenolol), β2 (ICI 118.551) and β3 (SR59230A)-AR antagonists with equi-nociceptive concentrations of formalin in the TMJ of intact, gonadectomized and hormone-treated gonadectomized male and female rats. Atenolol, ICI 118.551 and SR59230A significantly reduced formalin-induced TMJ nociception in a dose response fashion in all groups tested. However, a lower dose of each β-AR antagonist was sufficient to significantly reduce nociceptive responses in gonadectomized but not in intact and testosterone-treated gonadectomized male rats. In the female groups, a lower dose of β1 -AR antagonist was sufficient to significantly reduce nociceptive responses in gonadectomized but not in intact or gonadectomized rats treated with progesterone or a high dose of oestradiol; a lower dose of β2 -AR antagonist was sufficient to significantly reduce nociceptive responses in gonadectomized but not in intact and gonadectomized rats treated with low or high dose of oestradiol. Gonadal hormones may reduce the responsiveness to local β-blocker-induced antinociception in the TMJ of male and female rats. However, their effect depends upon their plasma level, the subtype of β-AR and the dose of β-blockers used.

Fast And Direct Na And K Determination In Table, Marine, And Low-sodium Salts By X-ray Fluorescence And Chemometrics.

X-ray fluorescence (XRF) is a fast, low-cost, nondestructive, and truly multielement analytical technique. The objectives of this study are to quantify the amount of Na(+) and K(+) in samples of table salt (refined, marine, and light) and to compare three different methodologies of quantification using XRF. A fundamental parameter method revealed difficulties in quantifying accurately lighter elements (Z < 22). A univariate methodology based on peak area calibration is an attractive alternative, even though additional steps of data manipulation might consume some time. Quantifications were performed with good correlations for both Na (r = 0.974) and K (r = 0.992). A partial least-squares (PLS) regression method with five latent variables was very fast. Na(+) quantifications provided calibration errors lower than 16% and a correlation of 0.995. Of great concern was the observation of high Na(+) levels in low-sodium salts. The presented application may be performed in a fast and multielement fashion, in accordance with Green Chemistry specifications.