Influence on present-day coastal dynamics and evolution of a relict subaqueous delta lobe: Sol de Riu lobe, Ebro Delta. Continental Shelf Research, 74: 94-104. doi:10.1016/j.csr.2013.11.021

We used high-resolution swath-bathymetry data to characterise the morphology of the abandoned subaqueous Sol de Riu delta lobe in the Ebro Delta, Western Mediterranean Sea. This study aims to assess the influence of an abandoned delta lobe on present-day coastal dynamics in a micro-tidal environment. Detailed mapping of the relict Sol de Riu lobe also showed a set of bedforms interpreted as footprints of human activities: seasonal V-shaped depressions on the middle shoreface due to boat anchoring and old trawling marks between 16 and 18 m water depth. Estimations of the mobility of bottom sediment showed that the shallowest shoreface (i.e. less than 7 m depth) is the most dynamic part of the relict lobe, while the middle shoreface experienced significant morphological changes since the lobe was abandoned. The deepest shoreface (i.e. water depth in excess of 15 m), which corresponds to the front of the lobe, is defined by a very small potential for morphological change. Simulations showed that while the relict lobe does not significantly affect the typical short period waves (Tp ≈4 s) in the study area, it does interfere with the most energetic wave conditions (Tp ≥ 7 s) acting as a shoal leading to the concentration of wave energy along the shoreline northwest of the lobe. The consequence of such modification of the high-energy wave propagation pattern by the relict lobe is an alteration of the wave-induced littoral sediment dynamics with respect to a situation without the lobe.

Autonomous Measurements of Bridge Pier and Abutment Scour using Motion-Sensing Radio Transmitters, TR-595, 2010

Two portable Radio Frequency IDentification (RFID) systems (made by Texas Instruments and HiTAG) were developed and tested for bridge scour monitoring by the Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering at the University of Iowa (UI). Both systems consist of three similar components: 1) a passive cylindrical transponder of 2.2 cm in length (derived from transmitter/responder); 2) a low frequency reader (~134.2 kHz frequency); and 3) an antenna (of rectangular or hexagonal loop). The Texas Instruments system can only read one smart particle per time, while the HiTAG system was successfully modified here at UI by adding the anti-collision feature. The HiTAG system was equipped with four antennas and could simultaneously detect 1,000s of smart particles located in a close proximity. A computer code was written in C++ at the UI for the HiTAG system to allow simultaneous, multiple readouts of smart particles under different flow conditions. The code is written for the Windows XP operational system which has a user-friendly windows interface that provides detailed information regarding the smart particle that includes: identification number, location (orientation in x,y,z), and the instance the particle was detected.. These systems were examined within the context of this innovative research in order to identify the best suited RFID system for performing autonomous bridge scour monitoring. A comprehensive laboratory study that included 142 experimental runs and limited field testing was performed to test the code and determine the performance of each system in terms of transponder orientation, transponder housing material, maximum antenna-transponder detection distance, minimum inter-particle distance and antenna sweep angle. The two RFID systems capabilities to predict scour depth were also examined using pier models. The findings can be summarized as follows: 1) The first system (Texas Instruments) read one smart particle per time, and its effective read range was about 3ft (~1m). The second system (HiTAG) had similar detection ranges but permitted the addition of an anti-collision system to facilitate the simultaneous identification of multiple smart particles (transponders placed into marbles). Therefore, it was sought that the HiTAG system, with the anti-collision feature (or a system with similar features), would be preferable when compared to a single-read-out system for bridge scour monitoring, as the former could provide repetitive readings at multiple locations, which could help in predicting the scour-hole bathymetry along with maximum scour depth. 2) The HiTAG system provided reliable measures of the scour depth (z-direction) and the locations of the smart particles on the x-y plane within a distance of about 3ft (~1m) from the 4 antennas. A Multiplexer HTM4-I allowed the simultaneous use of four antennas for the HiTAG system. The four Hexagonal Loop antennas permitted the complete identification of the smart particles in an x, y, z orthogonal system as function of time. The HiTAG system can be also used to measure the rate of sediment movement (in kg/s or tones/hr). 3) The maximum detection distance of the antenna did not change significantly for the buried particles compared to the particles tested in the air. Thus, the low frequency RFID systems (~134.2 kHz) are appropriate for monitoring bridge scour because their waves can penetrate water and sand bodies without significant loss of their signal strength. 4) The pier model experiments in a flume with first RFID system showed that the system was able to successfully predict the maximum scour depth when the system was used with a single particle in the vicinity of pier model where scour-hole was expected. The pier model experiments with the second RFID system, performed in a sandbox, showed that system was able to successfully predict the maximum scour depth when two scour balls were used in the vicinity of the pier model where scour-hole was developed. 5) The preliminary field experiments with the second RFID system, at the Raccoon River, IA near the Railroad Bridge (located upstream of 360th street Bridge, near Booneville), showed that the RFID technology is transferable to the field. A practical method would be developed for facilitating the placement of the smart particles within the river bed. This method needs to be straightforward for the Department of Transportation (DOT) and county road working crews so it can be easily implemented at different locations. 6) Since the inception of this project, further research showed that there is significant progress in RFID technology. This includes the availability of waterproof RFID systems with passive or active transponders of detection ranges up to 60 ft (~20 m) within the water–sediment column. These systems do have anti-collision and can facilitate up to 8 powerful antennas which can significantly increase the detection range. Such systems need to be further considered and modified for performing automatic bridge scour monitoring. The knowledge gained from the two systems, including the software, needs to be adapted to the new systems.

Effects of coastal submarine canyons on tsunami propagation and impact

We analyse the variations produced on tsunami propagation and impact over a straight coastline because of the presence of a submarine canyon incised in the continental margin. For ease of calculation we assume that the shoreline and the shelf edge are parallel and that the incident wave approaches them normally. A total of 512 synthetic scenarios have been computed by combining the bathymetry of a continental margin incised by a parameterised single canyon and the incident tsunami waves. The margin bathymetry, the canyon and the tsunami waves have been generated using mathematical functions (e.g. Gaussian). Canyon parameters analysed are: (i) incision length into the continental shelf, which for a constant shelf width relates directly to the distance from the canyon head to the coast, (ii) canyon width, and (iii) canyon orientation with respect to the shoreline. Tsunami wave parameters considered are period and sign. The COMCOT tsunami model from Cornell University was applied to propagate the waves across the synthetic bathymetric surfaces. Five simulations of tsunami propagation over a non-canyoned margin were also performed for reference. The analysis of the results reveals a strong variation of tsunami arrival times and amplitudes reaching the coastline when a tsunami wave travels over a submarine canyon, with changing maximum height location and alongshore extension. In general, the presence of a submarine canyon lowers the arrival time to the shoreline but prevents wave build-up just over the canyon axis. This leads to a decrease in tsunami amplitude at the coastal stretch located just shoreward of the canyon head, which results in a lower run-up in comparison with a non-canyoned margin. Contrarily, an increased wave build-up occurs on both sides of the canyon head, generating two coastal stretches with an enhanced run-up. These aggravated or reduced tsunami effects are modified with (i) proximity of the canyon tip to the coast, amplifying the wave height, (ii) canyon width, enlarging the areas with lower and higher maximum height wave along the coastline, and (iii) canyon obliquity with respect to the shoreline and shelf edge, increasing wave height shoreward of the leeward flank of the canyon. Moreover, the presence of a submarine canyon near the coast produces a variation of wave energy along the shore, eventually resulting in edge waves shoreward of the canyon head. Edge waves subsequently spread out alongshore reaching significant amplitudes especially when coupling with tsunami secondary waves occurs. Model results have been groundtruthed using the actual bathymetry of Blanes Canyon area in the North Catalan margin. This paper underlines the effects of the presence, morphology and orientation of submarine canyons as a determining factor on tsunami propagation and impact, which could prevail over other effects deriving from coastal configuration.

The El Masnou Infralittoral sedimentary environment (Barcelona province, NW Mediterranean Sea): morphology and Holocene seismic stratigraphy

A detailed analysis of the morphology and the Holocene seismic and sequence stratigraphy and architecture of the infralittoral sedimentary environment of the El Masnou coast (Catalonia, NW Mediterranean Sea) was carried out using multibeam bathymetry and GeoPulse seismic data. This environment extends down to 26-30 m water depth, and is defined morphologically by two depositional wedges whose seafloor is affected by erosive furrows, slides, fields of large- and small-scale wavy bedforms, and dredging trenches and pits. Erosive terraces are also identified in the transition domain toward the inner continental shelf. The Holocene stratigraphy of the infralittoral environment is defined by two major seismic sequences (lower and upper), each one formed by internal seismic units. The sequences and units are characterised by downlapping surfaces made up of deposits formed by progradation of coastal lithosomes. The stratigraphy and stratal architecture, displaying a retrogradational arrangement with progradational patterns of minor order, were controlled by different sea-level positions. The stratigraphic division represents the coastal response to the last fourth-order transgressive and highstand conditions, modulated by small-scale sea-level oscillations (≈1-2 m) of fith to sixth order. This study also highlights the advantage of an integrated analysis using acoustic/seismic methods for practical assessment of the anthropogenic effects on infralittoral domains based on the association of marine geological observations.

Macroalgae across environmental gradients : tools for managing rocky coastal areas of the northern Baltic Sea

Macroalgae are the main primary producers of the temperate rocky shores providing a three-dimensional habitat, food and nursery grounds for many other species. During the past decades, the state of the coastal waters has deteriorated due to increasing human pressures, resulting in dramatic changes in coastal ecosystems, including macroalgal communities. To reverse the deterioration of the European seas, the EU has adopted the Water Framework Directive (WFD) and the Marine Strategy Framework Directive (MSFD), aiming at improved status of the coastal waters and the marine environment. Further, the Habitats Directive (HD) calls for the protection of important habitats and species (many of which are marine) and the Maritime Spatial Planning Directive for sustainability in the use of resources and human activities at sea and by the coasts. To efficiently protect important marine habitats and communities, we need knowledge on their spatial distribution. Ecological knowledge is also needed to assess the status of the marine areas by involving biological indicators, as required by the WFD and the MSFD; knowledge on how biota changes with human-induced pressures is essential, but to reliably assess change, we need also to know how biotic communities vary over natural environmental gradients. This is especially important in sea areas such as the Baltic Sea, where the natural environmental gradients create substantial differences in biota between areas. In this thesis, I studied the variation occurring in macroalgal communities across the environmental gradients of the northern Baltic Sea, including eutrophication induced changes. The aim was to produce knowledge to support the reliable use of macroalgae as indicators of ecological status of the marine areas and to test practical metrics that could potentially be used in status assessments. Further, the aim was to develop a methodology for mapping the HD Annex I habitat reefs, using the best available data on geology and bathymetry. The results showed that the large-scale variation in the macroalgal community composition of the northern Baltic Sea is largely driven by salinity and exposure. Exposure is important also on smaller spatial scales, affecting species occurrence, community structure and depth penetration of algae. Consequently, the natural variability complicates the use of macroalgae as indicators of human-induced changes. Of the studied indicators, the number of perennial algal species, the perennial cover, the fraction of annual algae, and the lower limit of occurrence of red and brown perennial algae showed potential as usable indicators of ecological status. However, the cumulated cover of algae, commonly used as an indicator in the fully marine environments, showed low responses to eutrophication in the area. Although the mere occurrence of perennial algae did not show clear indicator potential, a distinct discrepancy in the occurrence of bladderwrack, Fucus vesiculosus, was found between two areas with differing eutrophication history, the Bothnian Sea and the Archipelago Sea. The absence of Fucus from many potential sites in the outer Archipelago Sea is likely due to its inability to recover from its disappearance from the area 30-40 years ago, highlighting the importance of past events in macroalgal occurrence. The methodology presented for mapping the potential distribution and the ecological value of reefs showed, that relatively high accuracy in mapping can be achieved by combining existing available data, and the maps produced serve as valuable background information for more detailed surveys. Taken together, the results of the theses contribute significantly to the knowledge on macroalgal communities of the northern Baltic Sea that can be directly applied in various management contexts.

Remote sensing for three-dimensional modelling of hydromorphology

Successful management of rivers requires an understanding of the fluvial processes that govern them. This, in turn cannot be achieved without a means of quantifying their geomorphology and hydrology and the spatio-temporal interactions between them, that is, their hydromorphology. For a long time, it has been laborious and time-consuming to measure river topography, especially in the submerged part of the channel. The measurement of the flow field has been challenging as well, and hence, such measurements have long been sparse in natural environments. Technological advancements in the field of remote sensing in the recent years have opened up new possibilities for capturing synoptic information on river environments. This thesis presents new developments in fluvial remote sensing of both topography and water flow. A set of close-range remote sensing methods is employed to eventually construct a high-resolution unified empirical hydromorphological model, that is, river channel and floodplain topography and three-dimensional areal flow field. Empirical as well as hydraulic theory-based optical remote sensing methods are tested and evaluated using normal colour aerial photographs and sonar calibration and reference measurements on a rocky-bed sub-Arctic river. The empirical optical bathymetry model is developed further by the introduction of a deep-water radiance parameter estimation algorithm that extends the field of application of the model to shallow streams. The effect of this parameter on the model is also assessed in a study of a sandy-bed sub-Arctic river using close-range high-resolution aerial photography, presenting one of the first examples of fluvial bathymetry modelling from unmanned aerial vehicles (UAV). Further close-range remote sensing methods are added to complete the topography integrating the river bed with the floodplain to create a seamless high-resolution topography. Boat- cart- and backpack-based mobile laser scanning (MLS) are used to measure the topography of the dry part of the channel at a high resolution and accuracy. Multitemporal MLS is evaluated along with UAV-based photogrammetry against terrestrial laser scanning reference data and merged with UAV-based bathymetry to create a two-year series of seamless digital terrain models. These allow the evaluation of the methodology for conducting high-resolution change analysis of the entire channel. The remote sensing based model of hydromorphology is completed by a new methodology for mapping the flow field in 3D. An acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) is deployed on a remote-controlled boat with a survey-grade global navigation satellite system (GNSS) receiver, allowing the positioning of the areally sampled 3D flow vectors in 3D space as a point cloud and its interpolation into a 3D matrix allows a quantitative volumetric flow analysis. Multitemporal areal 3D flow field data show the evolution of the flow field during a snow-melt flood event. The combination of the underwater and dry topography with the flow field yields a compete model of river hydromorphology at the reach scale.

Utilisation de l’habitat et pressions anthropiques sur une population de rorquals à bosse (Megaptera novaeangliae) de Guadeloupe par suivi terrestre

Le sanctuaire Agoa est une aire marine protégée dans la zone économique exclusive (ZEE) des Antilles françaises qui fut créée en 2010 pour la conservation des mammifères marins et de leurs habitats. Il est connu que le rorqual à bosse fréquente les eaux des Antilles de décembre à mai pour la reproduction et la mise bas. Par contre, peu d’information existe sur l’abondance, le comportement, la distribution et les pressions anthropiques sur cette espèce aux Antilles et encore moins dans le sanctuaire. Cette maîtrise s’intéresse principalement à connaître cette espèce dans un secteur précis de cette aire marine et les liens qu’elle entretient avec certains utilisateurs humains de son habitat. Le tout vise à informer les intervenants en place, autant institutionnels qu’utilisateurs, vers une mise en place de mesures de conservation adaptées. Un suivi terrestre hivernal de plus de 300 heures, en 2012 et 2013, a permis de déterminer l’utilisation de l’habitat et les pressions anthropiques sur une population de rorquals à bosse fréquentant le sud de la péninsule de la Pointe-des-Châteaux en Guadeloupe. Il s’agit du premier suivi terrestre de cette espèce aux Antilles françaises et un des premiers dans l'arc caribéen. La zone d’étude couvre environ 264 km2 et serait une des zones les plus fréquentées de l’archipel guadeloupéen par l’espèce. À l’aide d’un théodolite, la trajectoire de 107 groupes différents (137,8 heures, 699 remontées) a été décrite. Les résultats montrent que la zone d’étude est principalement fréquentée en mars et avril, avec une abondance maximale au début du mois d’avril. La forte présence de baleineaux, particulièrement au mois de mars, pousse à croire que cette zone est utilisée comme pouponnière. Le comportement n’est pas aléatoire dans la zone d’étude et les trajectoires convergent vers certaines zones ayant possiblement un lien avec la bathymétrie. De plus, la zone marine à proximité de la Pointe-des-Châteaux pourrait potentiellement être un lieu de convergence des groupes. Ceux-ci se déplacent à vitesse réduite en direction ENE en général, à l’exception des femelles accompagnées de baleineaux qui prennent une orientation tout autre, c’est-à-dire vers le ONO, et ce à plus grande vitesse. Bien que la pression d’observation soit considérée comme modérée, une forte proportion des remontées se trouve dans les corridors de navigation présents dans la zone d’étude. De plus, le corridor de navigation des navettes entre Saint-François et La Désirade comporte le plus grand risque relatif de collision mortelle. Une réduction de vitesse des embarcations fréquentant le corridor des navettes diminuerait significativement le risque de collision mortelle. Ces pistes de réflexion mèneront sans doute à d’autres études plus poussées afin de continuer à en apprendre sur l’écologie de cette espèce fascinante.

Foraminiferal and Pteropod Records in the Late Quaternary Sequence off Northern Kerala and Their Oceanographic and Climatic Significance

In the present investigation, an attempt is made to study late Quaternary foraminiferal and pteropod records of the shelf of northern Kerala and to evaluate their potentiality in paleocenographic and paleoclimatic reconstruction. The study gives details of sediment cores, general characteristics of foraminifera and pteropod species recorded from the examined samples and their systematic classification, spatial distribution of Recent foraminifera and pteropods and their response to varying bathymetry, nature of substrate, organic matter content in sediment and hydrography across the shelf. An attempt is also made to establish an integrated chronostratigraphy for the examined core sections. An effort is also made to identify microfaunal criteria useful in biostratigraphic division in shallow marine core sections. An attempt is made to infer various factors responsible for the change in microfaunal assemblage. Reconstruction of sea level changes during the last 36,000 years was attempted based on the pteropod record. The study reveals a bathymetric control on benthic/planktic (BF/PF) foraminiferal and pteropods/planktic foraminiferal (Pt/PF) abundance ratio. Bathymetric distribution pattern of BF/PF ratio is opposite to the (Pt/PF) ratio with decreasing trend of former from the shore across the shelf. Quantitative benthic foraminiferal record in the surficial sediments reveals a positive correlation between the diversity and bathymetry. R-mode cluster analysis performed on 30n significant Recent benthic foraminiferal, determines three major assemblage.

Multisensor Modeling Underwater with Uncertain Information

This thesis develops an approach to the construction of multidimensional stochastic models for intelligent systems exploring an underwater environment. It describes methods for building models by a three- dimensional spatial decomposition of stochastic, multisensor feature vectors. New sensor information is incrementally incorporated into the model by stochastic backprojection. Error and ambiguity are explicitly accounted for by blurring a spatial projection of remote sensor data before incorporation. The stochastic models can be used to derive surface maps or other representations of the environment. The methods are demonstrated on data sets from multibeam bathymetric surveying, towed sidescan bathymetry, towed sidescan acoustic imagery, and high-resolution scanning sonar aboard a remotely operated vehicle.

Use of fused airborne scanning laser altimetry and digital map data for urban flood modelling

Flood modelling of urban areas is still at an early stage, partly because until recently topographic data of sufficiently high resolution and accuracy have been lacking in urban areas. However, Digital Surface Models (DSMs) generated from airborne scanning laser altimetry (LiDAR) having sub-metre spatial resolution have now become available, and these are able to represent the complexities of urban topography. The paper describes the development of a LiDAR post-processor for urban flood modelling based on the fusion of LiDAR and digital map data. The map data are used in conjunction with LiDAR data to identify different object types in urban areas, though pattern recognition techniques are also employed. Post-processing produces a Digital Terrain Model (DTM) for use as model bathymetry, and also a friction parameter map for use in estimating spatially-distributed friction coefficients. In vegetated areas, friction is estimated from LiDAR-derived vegetation height, and (unlike most vegetation removal software) the method copes with short vegetation less than ~1m high, which may occupy a substantial fraction of even an urban floodplain. The DTM and friction parameter map may also be used to help to generate an unstructured mesh of a vegetated urban floodplain for use by a 2D finite element model. The mesh is decomposed to reflect floodplain features having different frictional properties to their surroundings, including urban features such as buildings and roads as well as taller vegetation features such as trees and hedges. This allows a more accurate estimation of local friction. The method produces a substantial node density due to the small dimensions of many urban features.

Data assimilation for a coastal area morphodynamic model: Morecambe Bay

This paper investigates the use of data assimilation in coastal area morphodynamic modelling using Morecambe Bay as a study site. A simple model of the bay has been enhanced with a data assimilation scheme to better predict large-scale changes in bathymetry observed in the bay over a 3-year period. The 2DH decoupled morphodynamic model developed for the work is described, as is the optimal interpolation scheme used to assimilate waterline observations into the model run. Each waterline was acquired from a SAR satellite image and is essentially a contour of the bathymetry at some level within the inter-tidal zone of the bay. For model parameters calibrated against validation observations, model performance is good, even without data assimilation. However the use of data assimilation successfully compensates for a particular failing of the model, and helps to keep the model bathymetry on track. It also improves the ability of the model to predict future bathymetry. Although the benefits of data assimilation are demonstrated using waterline observations, any observations of morphology could potentially be used. These results suggest that data assimilation should be considered for use in future coastal area morphodynamic models.

Data assimilation for morphodynamic prediction and predictability

This paper gives an overview of the project Changing Coastlines: data assimilation for morphodynamic prediction and predictability. This project is investigating whether data assimilation could be used to improve coastal morphodynamic modeling. The concept of data assimilation is described, and the benefits that data assimilation could bring to coastal morphodynamic modeling are discussed. Application of data assimilation in a simple 1D morphodynamic model is presented. This shows that data assimilation can be used to improve the current state of the model bathymetry, and to tune the model parameter. We now intend to implement these ideas in a 2D morphodynamic model, for two study sites. The logistics of this are considered, including model design and implementation, and data requirement issues. We envisage that this work could provide a means for maintaining up-to-date information on coastal bathymetry, without the need for costly survey campaigns. This would be useful for a range of coastal management issues, including coastal flood forecasting.

Improving flood inundation models using remotely sensed data

The paper discusses the wide variety of ways in which remotely sensed data are being utilized in river flood inundation modeling. Model parameterization is being aided using airborne LiDAR data to provide topography of the floodplain for use as model bathymetry, and vegetation heights in the floodplain for use in estimating floodplain friction factors. Model calibration and validation are being aided by comparing the flood extent observed in SAR images with the extent predicted by the model. The recent extension of this to the observation of urban flooding using high resolution TerraSAR-X data is described. Possible future research directions are considered.

Variational data assimilation for parameter estimation: application to a simple morphodynamic model

Data assimilation is a sophisticated mathematical technique for combining observational data with model predictions to produce state and parameter estimates that most accurately approximate the current and future states of the true system. The technique is commonly used in atmospheric and oceanic modelling, combining empirical observations with model predictions to produce more accurate and well-calibrated forecasts. Here, we consider a novel application within a coastal environment and describe how the method can also be used to deliver improved estimates of uncertain morphodynamic model parameters. This is achieved using a technique known as state augmentation. Earlier applications of state augmentation have typically employed the 4D-Var, Kalman filter or ensemble Kalman filter assimilation schemes. Our new method is based on a computationally inexpensive 3D-Var scheme, where the specification of the error covariance matrices is crucial for success. A simple 1D model of bed-form propagation is used to demonstrate the method. The scheme is capable of recovering near-perfect parameter values and, therefore, improves the capability of our model to predict future bathymetry. Such positive results suggest the potential for application to more complex morphodynamic models.

Remote sensing of intertidal morphological change in Morecambe Bay, U.K., between 1991 and 2007

Tidal Flats are important examples of extensive areas of natural environment that remain relatively unaffected by man. Monitoring of tidal flats is required for a variety of purposes. Remote sensing has become an established technique for the measurement of topography over tidal flats. A further requirement is to measure topographic changes in order to measure sediment budgets. To date there have been few attempts to make quantitative estimates of morphological change over tidal flat areas. This paper illustrates the use of remote sensing to measure quantitative and qualitative changes in the tidal flats of Morecambe Bay during the relatively long period 1991–2007. An understanding of the patterns of sediment transport within the Bay is of considerable interest for coastal management and defence purposes. Tidal asymmetry is considered to be the dominant cause of morphological change in the Bay, with the higher currents associated with the flood tide being the main agency moulding the channel system. Quantitative changes were measured by comparing a Digital Elevation Model (DEM) of the intertidal zone formed using the waterline technique applied to satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) images from 1991–1994, to a second DEM constructed from airborne laser altimetry data acquired in 2005. Qualitative changes were studied using additional SAR images acquired since 2003. A significant movement of sediment from below Mean Sea Level (MSL) to above MSL was detected by comparing the two Digital Elevation Models, though the proportion of this change that could be ascribed to seasonal effects was not clear. Between 1991 and 2004 there was a migration of the Ulverston channel of the river Leven north-east by about 5 km, followed by the development of a straighter channel to the west, leaving the previous channel decoupled from the river. This is thought to be due to independent tidal and fluvial forcing mechanisms acting on the channel. The results demonstrate the effectiveness of remote sensing for measurement of long-term morphological change in tidal flat areas. An alternative use of waterlines as partial bathymetry for assimilation into a morphodynamic model of the coastal zone is also discussed.