The life-cycle of the fashion garment and the role of Australian mass market designers

This paper uses the lens of life-cycle thinking to discuss recent developments in the Australian mass market fashion industry, and to explore the opportunities and barriers to implementing lifecycle thinking within mass market design processes. Life-cycle analysis is a quantitative tool used to assess the environmental impact of a material or product. However the underlying thinking of life-cycle analysis can also be employed more generally, enabling a designer to assess their processes and design decisions for sustainability. A fashion designer employing life cycle thinking would consider every stage in the life of a garment from fibre and textiles through to consumer use, to eventual disposal and beyond disposal to reuse and later disassembly for fibre recycling. Although life-cycle thinking is rarely considered in the design processes of the fast-paced, price-driven mass market, this paper explores its potential and suggests ways in which it could be implemented.

Frantic fashion and Australia’s invisible designers : conversations on sustainability in the mass market

The majority of Australians will work, sleep and die in the garments of the mass market. Yet, as Ian Griffiths has termed it, the designers of these garments are ‘invisible’ (2000). To the general public, the values, opinions and individual design processes of these designers are as unknown as their names. However, the designer’s role is crucial in making decisions which will have impacts throughout the life of the garment. The high product volume within the mass market ensures that even a small decision in the design process to source a particular fabric, or to use a certain trim or textile finish, can have a profound environmental or social effect. While big companies in Australia have implemented some visible strategies for sustainability, it is uncertain how these may have flowed through to design practices. To explore this question, this presentation will discuss preliminary findings from in-depth semi-structured interviews with Australian mass market fashion designers and product developers. The aim of the interviews was to hear the voice of the insider – to listen to mass market designers describe their design process, discuss the Australian fashion industry and its future challenges and opportunities, and to comment on what a ‘sustainability’ for their industry could look like. These interviews will be discussed within the framework of design philosopher Tony Fry’s writing on design redirection for sustainability.

The knock-on from the knock-off : recent shifts within Australian mass market fashion design practice

Australia’s mass market fashion labels have traditionally benefitted from their peripheral location to the world’s fashion centres. Operating a season behind, Australian mass market designers and buyers were well-placed to watch trends play out overseas before testing them in the Australian marketplace. For this reason, often a designer’s role was to source and oversee the manufacture of ‘knock-offs’, or close copies of Northern hemisphere mass market garments. Both Weller (2007) and Walsh (2009) have commented on this practice. The knock-on effect from this continues to be a cautious, derivative fashion sensibility within Australian mass market fashion design, where any new trend or product is first tested and proved overseas months earlier. However, there is evidence that this is changing. The rapid online dissemination of global fashion trends, coupled with the Australian consumer’s willingness to shop online, has meant that the ‘knock-off’ is less viable. For this reason, a number of mass market companies are moving away from the practice of direct sourcing and are developing product in-house under a Northern hemisphere model. This shift is also witnessed in the trend for mass market companies to develop collections in partnership with independent Australian designers. This paper explores the current and potential effects of these shifts within Australian mass market design practice, and discusses how they may impact on designers, consumers and on the wider culture of Australian fashion.

The lifecycle of the fashion garment : voices of mass market designers

For the Australian fashion industry to move towards a more socially and environmentally ethical industry, change to existing processes would need to occur in all market levels. Change is particularly needed in the mass market, where larger volumes inevitably lead to greater environmental impact. Recent trends in eco fashion have waxed and waned, with only minor impact on the methodology of the mass market design process, with greenwashing and confusion of concepts being common problems. In the mass market, the product lifecycle begins in the design room and ends on the retail floor. A design process for sustainability necessarily expands this lifecycle, assessing the impact of every stage in the life of a fashion garment from the fibre and textiles through to consumer use, to eventual disposal and beyond disposal to fibre recycling and reuse or resale. However, how easy is it for designers to consider a wider view of the product lifecycle in their design process? How much autonomy do they have over their design process, and where do they believe their responsibility begins and ends for the garments they design? This paper will present some preliminary findings from interviews with designers in the Australian women’s wear mass market, revealing their concerns and views on the challenges of a sustainability for their industry.

The growth and international expansion of an emerging market retailer in Latin America

This study contributes to the literature on international retailing by addressing a gap in the literature as to how retailers from emerging markets expand internationally. This historical case study analyzes the growth and internationalization process of Chilean retailer Falabella, one of the largest in Latin America and has been able to compete with multinationals from developed countries. The research is based upon primary and secondary data sources including 33 oral interviews with company managers and family executives, as well as industry data, corporate reports, and trade journals. Drawing on institutional theory, the findings show that by belonging to a family conglomerate, engaging in networks and partnerships, organizational learning, and having an experienced management team helped Falabella gain legitimacy in all international markets.

Internationalisation of emerging market firms : an exploratory study of Chilean companies

Purpose This paper explores how firms from a Latin American market internationalise using the resource-based view (RBV) of the firm as a theoretical foundation. Specifically, it examines the internationalisation process of three Chilean companies that have become relevant international players. Design/methodology/approach Drawing on interviews with company managers, as well as industry data and corporate reports, this paper provides insights into the successful internationalisation process of emerging market firms. Findings The findings of this study suggest that specific capabilities and resources, such as belonging to a family conglomerate, domestic and foreign partnerships and networks, innovation and market orientation, and an experienced management team, are required for emerging market firms to internationalise and improve their performance in foreign markets. Originality/value This study is one of the few to address the internationalisation process of Chilean companies.

Using the web to look for work: Implications for online job seeking and recruiting

Purpose - The web is now a significant component of the recruitment and job search process. However, very little is known about how companies and job seekers use the web, and the ultimate effectiveness of this process. The specific research questions guiding this study are: how do people search for job-related information on the web? How effective are these searches? And how likely are job seekers to find an appropriate job posting or application? Design/methodology/approach - The data used to examine these questions come from job seekers submitting job-related queries to a major web search engine at three points in time over a five-year period. Findings - Results indicate that individuals seeking job information generally submit only one query with several terms and over 45 percent of job-seeking queries contain a specific location reference. Of the documents retrieved, findings suggest that only 52 percent are relevant and only 40 percent of job-specific searches retrieve job postings. Research limitations/implications - This study provides an important contribution to web research and online recruiting literature. The data come from actual web searches, providing a realistic glimpse into how job seekers are actually using the web. Practical implications - The results of this research can assist organizations in seeking to use the web as part of their recruiting efforts, in designing corporate recruiting web sites, and in developing web systems to support job seeking and recruiting. Originality/value - This research is one of the first studies to investigate job searching on the web using longitudinal real world data. © Emerald Group Publishing Limited.

Market Trend Analysis of Purpose Built Office (PBO) in Malaysia

The purpose of this paper is to explore the trend of Purpose Built Office (PBO) supply and occupancy in Malaysia. In achieving this, the number of PBO supply by the private sector in the market is compared with the government sector to gain an understanding of the current emerging market for the PBO. There have been limited studies in Malaysia comparing the trend supply and occupancy of PBOs by both sectors. This paper outcome will illustrate the needs for public sector asset management in Malaysia, particularly for PBOs. An analytical framework is developed using time series to measure the level of supply and occupancy of PBO by both sectors, indicating the percentage of government’s PBO compared to the total numbers of PBOs in the market from 2004 to 2010

An analysis of NSW rural property market : 1990-2010

Rural property in Australia has seen significant market resurgence over the past 3 years, with improved seasonal conditions in a number of states, improved commodity prices and a greater interest and purchase of rural land by major international corporations and investment institutions. Much of this change in perspective in relation to rural property as an asset class can be linked to the food shortage of 2007 and the subsequent interest by many countries in respect to food security. This paper will address the total and capital return performance of a major agricultural area and compare these returns on the basis of both location of land and land use. The comparison will be used to determine if location or actual land use has a greater influence on rural property capital and income returns. This performance analysis is based on over 40,000 rural sales transactions. These transactions cover all market based rural property transactions in New South Wales, Australia for the period January 1990 to December 2010. Correlation analysis and investment performance analysis has also been carried out to determine the possible relationships between location and land use and subsequent changes in rural land capital values.

Identification of key competences of design-builders in the construction market of the People’s Republic of China (PRC)

Design-builders play a vital role in the success of DB projects. In the construction market of the People’s Republic of China, most of the design-builders, however, lack adequate competences to conduct the DB projects successfully. The objective of this study is, therefore, to identify the key competences that design-builders should possess to not only ensure the success of DB projects but also acquire the competitive advantages in the DB market. Five semi-structured face-to-face interviews and two rounds of Delphi questionnaire survey were conducted to identify the key competences of design-builders. Rankings have been assigned to these key competences on the basis of their relative importance. Six ranked key competences of design-builders have been identified, which are, namely, (1) experience with similar DB projects; (2) capability of corporate management; (3) combination of building techniques and design expertise; (4) financial capability for DB projects; (5) enterprise qualification and scale; and (6) credit records and reputation in the industry. The design-builders can make use of the research findings as guidelines to improve their DB competence. These research findings will also be useful to clients during the selection of design-builders.

Review of the design-build market in the People’s Republic of China

Design-build (DB) system has been demonstrated as an effective delivery method and been widely used overseas. However it does not receive the same popularity in the People’s Republic of China (PRC). This paper first conducts a literature review on advantages and disadvantages of DB in general; then it gives an overview of the PRC construction industry. There are ample evidences that the DB system will theoretically bring benefits to the PRC construction industry. After a thorough investigation of the current DB market, it can be concluded that the development of the DB system is still at its infancy stage. The barriers to entry have been finally identified, which relate to the legal restraints, negative owner attitude, and high requirement of DB projects. These barriers constitute obstacles to the development of DB system in the PRC. However, with rapid growth of construction industry, new requirements in modern construction projects, and strong promotion from governments, it is believed that the domestic DB market will have great potential in the near future.

The investigation of design-build variants in the construction market of the People’s Republic of China

Design-Build (DB) system has been widely adopted overseas but it has not received the same popularity yet in the People’s Republic of China. The selection of design-build variant is regarded as one of the critical obstacles to the application of this alternative. This paper investigates categories of design-build variants in the construction market of China. The develop-and-construction, enhanced design-build, traditional-design-build and engineering procurement-construction (EPC) are the four current designbuild variants adopted by clients. Each of them is developed to meet a varying set of circumstances and has its own advantages and disadvantages. The develop-and-construction is mostly used in large, complex projects in housing industry and it will guarantee client’s great control over the project while still leave some design room for the contractor. The traditional-design-build and enhanced-design-build systems are mostly applied in projects that are comparatively simple, small-scale, and the DB contractors will have greater control of the projects. The EPC is the extension of pure design-build method and is widely adopted in the petrochemical, metallurgical and electronic fields because of the high-technique requirements and the necessity for one entity to control the design, construction, procurement and commissioning etc. Four corresponding design-build projects are also presented in this paper in order to better illustrate the operational process and provide the insight for understanding the design-build variants in Mainland China.

Identification of key competences of DB clients in the construction market of China

The design-build system has been demonstrated as an effective delivery method and gained popularity worldwide. Although there are an increasing number of clients adopting DB method in China, most of them remain inexperienced with method. The objective of this study is therefore to identify the key competences that a client or its consultant should possess to ensure the success of DB projects. Face-to-face interviews and a two-round Delphi questionnaire survey were conducted to find the following six key competences of clients, which include the (1) ability to clearly articulate project scope and objectives; (2) financial capacity for DB projects; (3) capability in contract management; (4) adequate staff or consulting team; (5) effective coordination with contractors and (6) experience with similar DB projects. This study will hopefully provide clients with measures to evaluate their DB competence and further promote their understanding of DB system in the PRC.

Scheduling Trains with Priorities : a no-wait blocking parallel-machine job-shop scheduling model

The paper investigates train scheduling problems when prioritised trains and non-prioritised trains are simultaneously traversed in a single-line rail network. In this case, no-wait conditions arise because the prioritised trains such as express passenger trains should traverse continuously without any interruption. In comparison, non-prioritised trains such as freight trains are allowed to enter the next section immediately if possible or to remain in a section until the next section on the routing becomes available, which is thought of as a relaxation of no-wait conditions. With thorough analysis of the structural properties of the No-Wait Blocking Parallel-Machine Job-Shop-Scheduling (NWBPMJSS) problem that is originated in this research, an innovative generic constructive algorithm (called NWBPMJSS_Liu-Kozan) is proposed to construct the feasible train timetable in terms of a given order of trains. In particular, the proposed NWBPMJSS_Liu-Kozan constructive algorithm comprises several recursively-used sub-algorithms (i.e. Best-Starting-Time-Determination Procedure, Blocking-Time-Determination Procedure, Conflict-Checking Procedure, Conflict-Eliminating Procedure, Tune-up Procedure and Fine-tune Procedure) to guarantee feasibility by satisfying the blocking, no-wait, deadlock-free and conflict-free constraints. A two-stage hybrid heuristic algorithm (NWBPMJSS_Liu-Kozan-BIH) is developed by combining the NWBPMJSS_Liu-Kozan constructive algorithm and the Best-Insertion-Heuristic (BIH) algorithm to find the preferable train schedule in an efficient and economical way. Extensive computational experiments show that the proposed methodology is promising because it can be applied as a standard and fundamental toolbox for identifying, analysing, modelling and solving real-world scheduling problems.

A hybrid shifting bottleneck procedure algorithm for the parallel-machine job-shop scheduling problem

In practice, parallel-machine job-shop scheduling (PMJSS) is very useful in the development of standard modelling approaches and generic solution techniques for many real-world scheduling problems. In this paper, based on the analysis of structural properties in an extended disjunctive graph model, a hybrid shifting bottleneck procedure (HSBP) algorithm combined with Tabu Search metaheuristic algorithm is developed to deal with the PMJSS problem. The original-version SBP algorithm for the job-shop scheduling (JSS) has been significantly improved to solve the PMJSS problem with four novelties: i) a topological-sequence algorithm is proposed to decompose the PMJSS problem into a set of single-machine scheduling (SMS) and/or parallel-machine scheduling (PMS) subproblems; ii) a modified Carlier algorithm based on the proposed lemmas and the proofs is developed to solve the SMS subproblem; iii) the Jackson rule is extended to solve the PMS subproblem; iv) a Tabu Search metaheuristic algorithm is embedded under the framework of SBP to optimise the JSS and PMJSS cases. The computational experiments show that the proposed HSBP is very efficient in solving the JSS and PMJSS problems.