595 resultados para Wool


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The origins of enterprise are often associated with the Industrial Revolution, but this article presents evidence of entrepreneurial activities from a much earlier date – the medieval period. Between 1250 and 1500 the church, merchants and members of the royal court all engaged in activities that demonstrated the entrepreneurial characteristics of innovation, risk-taking and judgement. The activities of the prior of Tynemouth and the career of the wool merchant William de la Pole illustrate these developments. By focusing on individuals rather than firms, it is possible to push back the study of entrepreneurship beyond the Industrial Revolution and early-modern trade to a period that witnessed the origins of the modern state.

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From the early Roman period, there is archaeological evidence for the exploitation of the Flemish coastal plain (Belgium) for a range of activities, such as sheep herding on the then developing salt-marshes and salt-meadows for the production of wool. During the early Middle Ages, this culminated in the establishment of dedicated ‘sheep estates’. This phase of exploitation was followed by extensive drainage and land reclamation measures in the high Medieval period, transforming areas into grassland, suited for cattle breeding. As part of a larger project investigating the onset, intensification and final decline of sheep management in coastal Flanders in the historical period, this pilot study presents the results of sequential sampling and oxygen isotope analysis of a number of sheep teeth (M2, n = 8) from four late Roman and Medieval sites (dating from 4th to 15th century AD), in order to assess potential variations in season of birth between the different sites and through time. In comparison with published data from herds of known birth season, incremental enamel data from the Flemish sites are consistent with late winter/spring births, with the possibility of some instances of slightly earlier parturition. These findings suggest that manipulation of season of birth was not a feature of the sheep husbandry-based economies of early historic Flanders, further evidencing that wool production was the main purpose of contemporary sheep rearing in the region. Manipulation of season of birth is not likely to have afforded economic advantage in wool-centred economies, unlike in some milk- or meat-based regimes.

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A cathodically pretreated boron-doped diamond electrode was used for the simultaneous anodic determination of ascorbic acid (AA) and caffeine (CAF) by differential pulse voltammetry Linear calibration curves (r = 0 999) were obtained from 1 9 x 10(-5) to 2 I x 10(-4) mol L(-1) for AA and from 9 7 x 10(-6) to 1 1 x 10-4 mol L(-1) for CAF. with detection limits of 19 wool L(-1) and 7 0 mu nol L(-1). respectively This method was successfully applied for the determination of AA and CAF in pharmaceutical formulations. with results equal to those obtained using a HPLC reference method

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In this project, Stora Enso’s newly developed building system has been further developed to allow building to the Swedish passive house standard for the Swedish climate. The building system is based on a building framework of CLT (Cross laminated timber) boards. The concept has been tested on a small test building. The experience gained from this test building has also been used for planning a larger building (two storeys with the option of a third storey) with passive house standard with this building system. The main conclusions from the project are:  It is possible to build airtight buildings with this technique without using traditional vapour barriers. Initial measurements show that this can be done without reaching critical humidity levels in the walls and roof, at least where wood fibre insulation is used, as this has a greater capacity for storing and evening out the moisture than mineral wool. However, the test building has so far not been exposed to internal generation of moisture (added moisture from showers, food preparation etc.). This needs to be investigated and this will be done during the winter 2013-14.  A new fixing method for doors and windows has been tested without traditional fibre filling between them and the CLT panel. The door or window is pressed directly on to the CLT panel instead, with an expandable sealing strip between them. This has been proved to be successful.  The air tightness between the CLT panels is achieved with expandable sealing strips between the panels. The position of the sealing strips is important, both for the air tightness itself and to allow rational assembly.  Recurrent air tightness measurements show that the air tightness decreased somewhat during the first six months, but not to such an extent that the passive house criteria were not fulfilled. The reason for the decreased air tightness is not clear, but can be due to small movements in the CLT construction and also to the sealing strips being affected by changing outdoor temperatures.  Long term measurements (at least two years) have to be carried out before more reliable conclusions can be drawn regarding the long term effect of the construction on air tightness and humidity in the walls.  An economic analysis comparing using a concrete frame or the studied CLT frame for a three storey building shows that it is probably more expensive to build with CLT. For buildings higher than three floors, the CLT frame has economic advantages, mainly because of the shorter building time compared to using concrete for the frame. In this analysis, no considerations have been taken to differences in the influence on the environment or the global climate between the two construction methods.

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This paper further develops the conventional Weibull/weakest-link model by incorporating the within-fiber diameter variation. This is necessary for fibers with considerable geometrical irregularities, such as the wool and other animal fibers. The strength of wool fibers has been verified to follow this modified Weibull/weakest-link distribution. In addition, the modified Weibull model can predict the gauge length effect more accurately than the conventional model.

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Most fibers are irregular, and they are often subjected to combined loading conditions during processing and end-use. In this paper, polyester and wool fibers under the combined tensile and torsional loads have been studied for the first time, using the finite element method (FEM). The dimensional irregularities of these fibers are simulated with sine waves of different magnitude and frequency. The breaking load and breaking extension of the fibers at different twist or torsion levels are then calculated from the finite element model. The results indicate that twist and level of fiber irregularity have a major impact on the mechanical properties of the fiber and the effect of the frequency of irregularity is relatively small.

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Softness is an important property of textile fibers, and animal fibers in particular. At present, there is no reliable method for objectively evaluating fiber softness. This paper examines a simple technique of such evaluations by pulling a bundle of parallel fibers through a series of pins. Softer fibers with lower bending rigidities and smoother surfaces should have lower pulling forces. Alpaca and wool fibers are used in this study to validate this technique, and the results suggest that pulling force measurements can reflect differences in fiber softness.

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Fabric pilling is affected by many interacting factors. This study uses artificial neural networks to model the multi-linear relationships between fiber, yarn and fabric properties and their effect on the pilling propensity of pure wool knitted fabrics. This tool shall enable the user to gauge the expected pilling performance of a fabric from a number of given inputs. It will also provide a means of improving current products by offering alternative material specification and/or selection. In addition to having the capability to predict pilling performance, the model will allow for clarification of major fiber, yarn and fabric attributes affecting fabric pilling.

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Air drag on yarn and package surfaces affects yarn tension, which in turn affects energy consumption and ends-down in ring spinning. This study investigated the effects of yarn hairiness on air drag in ring spinning. Theoretical models of skin friction coefficient on the surface of rotating yarn packages were developed. The predicted results were verified with experimental data obtained from cotton and wool yarns. The results show that hairiness increases the air drag by about one-quarter and one-third for the rotating cotton and wool yarn packages, respectively. In addition, yarn hairiness increases the air drag by about one-tenth on a ballooning cotton yarn.

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Ring spinning is the most important system of making high quality yarns in the textile industry. Yarn tension affects yarn breakage, which in turn affects yarn productivity in ring spinning. Accurate information about how various spinning parameters affect yarn tension is essential for the optimisation of the ring spinning process. In this paper, a program to simulate the ring spinning process was developed using MATLAB, which can predict yarn tension under given spinning conditions. The simulation results were verified with experimental results obtained from ring spinning cotton and wool yarns.


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High energy consumption remains a key challenge for the widely used ring spinning system. Tackling this challenge requires a full understanding of the various factors that contribute to yarn tension and energy consumption during ring spinning. In this paper, we report our recent experimental and theoretical research on air drag, yarn tension and energy consumption in ring spinning. A specially constructed rig was used to simulate the ring spinning process; and yarn tension at the guide-eye was measured for different yarns under different conditions. The effect of yarn hairiness on the air drag acting on a rotating yarn package and on a ballooning yarn was examined. Models of the power requirements for overcoming the air drag, increasing the kinetic energy of the yarn package (bobbin and wound yarn) and overcoming the yarn wind-on tension were developed. The ratio of energy-consumption to yarn-production over a full yarn package was discussed. A program to simulate yarn winding in ring spinning was implemented, which can generate the balloon shape and predict yarn tension under a given spinning condition. The simulation results were verified with experimental results obtained from spinning cotton and wool yarns.

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Fabric pilling is a serious problem for the apparel industry, causing an unsightly appearance and premature wear. Woolen products are particularly prone to pilling. Recently, a process for production of woolen nonwoven apparel fabrics has been commercialized in Australia, and may lead to new markets for Australian wool. However, the success of such nonwoven fabrics will partly rely on their propensity to pill. A key element in the control of fabric pilling is the evaluation of resistance to pilling by testing. Resistance to pilling is normally tested in the laboratory by processes that simulate accelerated wear, followed by a manual assessment of the degree of pilling by an expert based on a visual comparison of the sample to a set of test images. To bring more objectivity into the pilling rating process, a number of automated systems based on image analysis have been developed. The authors previously proposed a new method of image analysis based on the two-dimensional discrete wavelet transform to objectively measure the pilling intensity for woven fabrics. This paper presents preliminary work in extending this method to nonwoven fabrics.

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Identical single jersey wool knit fabrics produced inconsistent results when tested on the same type of ICI pill box in 4 independence testing laboratories.  The hypothesis formulated to investigate this event was that continued pilling testing in the ICI pill box changes the frictional properties of the cork liners, resulting in the difference pilling ratings.  The aim of this study was to decrease the inconsistencies in the pilling results by replacing the conventional cork lined pill box with a PerspexTM pill box.  The smae or similar pilling results found for several of the knit facots tested in the two difference pill boxes, while for others there were some significant differences found.  In addition, while using the PerspexTM pill box observations of the movement of the pilling tubes during testing provided evidence of greater fabric-to-fabric abrasion, rather the expected high degree of fabric-to-cork abrasion (or fabric-to-PerspexTM) during pilling testing.

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In this paper, sereval varieties of animal fibres including cashmere and Australian fine Merino wool have been analysed by Fourier transform infrared microscope and differential scanning calorimeter. The results showed that both Chinese and Australian cashmere fibres started absorbing heat at a relatively higher temperature but were thermally degraded quicker than other animal fibres tested. However, the mass changes (within the temperature range of 200oC to 350oC) and associated onset temperatures varied among fibre varieties. From the attenuated total reflectance spectra, the Chinese cashmere was clearly different from Australian cashmere and wool in a peak near 1040 cm-1 wavelength for S-O stretching of cysteic acid residues. The Chinese cashmere presented a stronger absorption at 1019 cm-1 wavelength, while Australian cashmere and wool peaked at 1079 cm-1 wavelength and had a weaker absorption. Combined with thermal analysis, the normalised R-SO3 - content of cysteic acid residues to the amide II peak of the protein backbone may have potential use in identifying Australian fine Merino wool from Chinese cashmere.

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In this paper, we analyse the case for agricultural land retirement in Australia. For the case study considered, using defined criteria, we demonstrate that land retirement is an effective policy option. This finding depends crucially on the magnitude and sign of the price effect resulting from a fall in wool production because of agricultural land retirement. Uniquely in the literature, we argue that the price effect will positively contribute to a benefit–cost analysis of agricultural land retirement. We detail the necessary conditions that need to prevail for this to occur. We also explain why the expected benefits of land-use change are fewer than might be expected in the case study.