Arte e moda

Análise da moda no vestuário enquanto Arte, passível de análise estética respectivos critérios e ligação às artes plásticas. É ainda analisado, no âmbito desta problemática, a evolução do estatuto social do criador de Moda e a Moda na actualidade. ABSTRACT: The aim is the study of fashion in clothing as Art, the aesthetic criteria of its analysis and its connection with other arts. It is further analyzed, in the context of this problem, the evolution of status of fashions creators and Fashion today.

O poder e a moda vestimentar

Nas mutações da moda, sendo também Influenciadas por acontecimentos políticos e espirituais, é a acção condicionante de certos indivíduos que é determinante. Limitando-se ao campo do vestuário, investigação das interferências, proporcionais à força dos regimes, do poder sobre a moda, tanto pela lei como pelo exemplo; desde a corte do Duque de Borgonha às legislações sumptuárias e ao caso paradigmático de Luís XIV, até à China de Mao, referindo casos da sociedade portuguesa. ABSTRACT - Mutations in fashion are influenced by the action of certain people. The research is limited to the field of clothing, the connections between power and fashion, both by law and by example, from the court of the Duke of Burgundy to the laws that restraint luxury, and the paradigmatic study cases of Louis XIV and the China under the rule of Mao Tse Tung. Some cases of the Portuguese society are also referred.

José Régio e a moda

Qual foi a relação de José Régio com a moda? Dos indícios documentais biográficos, releva uma relação com a indumentária pessoal muito sóbria, muito menos preocupada que a de outros escritores, mas igualmente longe do desleixo. Na sua obra, as descrições de vestuário e as referências à moda são parcas e multo limitadas e nem mesmo a excepção de ter escrito um conto sobre um vestido questiona uma atitude geral de alheamento e desinteresse. ABSTRACT - What was the relationship between José Régio and Fashion? His biography reveals a very sober personal relationship with clothing, much less worried than other writers, but also away from the carelessness. In his work, descriptions of clothing and references to fashion are scarce and limited and not even have written a short story about one dress changes a general attitude of aloofness and detachment.

A Importância dos catálogos para o sector do vestuário português qualidade estética e gráfica dos catálogos

O catálogo é um produto de comunicação com presença forte no mundo da moda, reflexo por excelência de cada coleção e imagem de marca. Verifica-se que os critérios objectivos de avaliação dos catálogos não foram ainda alvo de uma análise estruturada e aprofundada, apesar da importância que possuem para as empresas do sector do Vestuário. Assim, decidiuse estudar os elementos que definem o nível de qualidade estética e gráfica dos catálogos de vestuário. Analisaram-se catálogos de marcas portuguesas e internacionais da indústria da moda cuja qualidade é reconhecida pelos profissionais de design. Como resultado desse estudo foi criada a Matriz AQC - Matriz de Avaliação da Qualidade dos Catálogos Produto e a Matriz AQC – Matriz de avaliação da Qualidade dos Catálogos Imagem.

Design of a new test chamber for evaluation of the toxicity of rubber infill

A test chamber was projected and built (according to ISO 16000-9 Standard) to simulate atmospheric conditions experienced by rubber infill (when applied in synthetic turf pitches) and measure accurately the airborne emissions of pollutants such as dusts and volatile organic compounds (VOC), as well as pollutants present in leachates. It should be pointed out that standard ISO 16000-9 is only concerned with the determination of the emission of VOC from building products and furnishing (not specific of synthetic turf materials), whereas other standards are concerned with the emission of leachates only. This procedure is to be considered as a technical option to the lysimeter "global turf system evaluation" when the rubber infill alone is to be evaluated. The advantage of the proposed option considering this "test chamber" is its simplicity and economy. This test chamber is actually installed and being used for tests in LAIST.

Natural Gas location design and operation

A major determinant of the level of effective natural gas supply is the ease to feed customers, minimizing system total costs. The aim of this work is the study of the right number of Gas Supply Units – GSUs - and their optimal location in a gas network. This paper suggests a GSU location heuristic, based on Lagrangean relaxation techniques. The heuristic is tested on the Iberian natural gas network, a system modelized with 65 demand nodes, linked by physical and virtual pipelines. Lagrangean heuristic results along with the allocation of loads to gas sources are presented, using a 2015 forecast gas demand scenario.

TINSEL – a web-based intelligent tutoring system on electrical installation design

This paper presents a project consisting on the development of an Intelligent Tutoring System, for training and support concerning the development of electrical installation projects to be used by electrical engineers, technicians and students. One of the major goals of this project is to devise a teaching model based on Intelligent Tutoring techniques, considering not only academic knowledge but also other types of more empirical knowledge, able to achieve successfully the training of electrical installation design.

Addressing the facilities layout design problem through constraint logic programming

One of the most difficult problems that face researchers experimenting with complex systems in real world applications is the Facility Layout Design Problem. It relies with the design and location of production lines, machinery and equipment, inventory storage and shipping facilities. In this work it is intended to address this problem through the use of Constraint Logic Programming (CLP) technology. The use of Genetic Algorithms (GA) as optimisation technique in CLP environment is also an issue addressed. The approach aims the implementation of genetic algorithm operators following the CLP paradigm.

A moda e o traje militar

RESUMO - A introdução do Uniforme nas forças armadas em Portugal deu-se no século XVII e este é claramente influenciado e por vezes mesmo condicionado pelo vestuário civil e pelas modas em voga.

An intelligent tutoring approach to support students and technicians in electrical installation design

Designing electric installation projects, demands not only academic knowledge, but also other types of knowledge not easily acquired through traditional instructional methodologies. A lot of additional empirical knowledge is missing and so the academic instruction must be completed with different kinds of knowledge, such as real-life practical examples and simulations. On the other hand, the practical knowledge detained by the most experienced designers is not formalized in such a way that is easily transmitted. In order to overcome these difficulties present in the engineers formation, we are developing an Intelligent Tutoring System (ITS), for training and support concerning the development of electrical installation projects to be used by electrical engineers, technicians and students.

Eça de Queiroz e a moda

RESUMO: Eça de Queiroz foi uma personalidade impar da literatura portuguesa, sendo as suas obras reflexo do tempo que viveu e da sociedade em que se integrou, verificando-se que estas, estão recheadas de referências à indumentária e às modas que se iam sucedendo e que muitas vezes descreveu. Dos indícios documentais biográficos, releva uma relação com a indumentária pessoal muito atenta e cuidada quase podendo ser considerado um dandy.

Contexts-management strategy in considering the security in urban computing based on urban design

Urban Computing (UrC) provides users with the situation-proper information by considering context of users, devices, and social and physical environment in urban life. With social network services, UrC makes it possible for people with common interests to organize a virtual-society through exchange of context information among them. In these cases, people and personal devices are vulnerable to fake and misleading context information which is transferred from unauthorized and unauthenticated servers by attackers. So called smart devices which run automatically on some context events are more vulnerable if they are not prepared for attacks. In this paper, we illustrate some UrC service scenarios, and show important context information, possible threats, protection method, and secure context management for people.

BASS 4: a software system for ergonomic design and evaluation of working hours

OBJECTIVE: To extend an existing computer programme for the evaluation and design of shift schedules (BASS 3) by integrating workload as well as economic aspects. METHODS: The redesigned prototype BASS 4 includes a new module with a suitable and easily applicable screening method (EBA) for the assessment of the intensity of physical, emotional and cognitive workload components and their temporal patterns. Specified criterion functions based on these ratings allow for an adjustment of shift and rest duration according to the intensity of physical and mental workload. Furthermore, with regard to interactive effects both workload and temporal conditions, e.g. time of day, are taken into account. In a second new module, important economic aspects and criteria have been implemented. Different ergonomic solutions for scheduling problems can now also be evaluated with regard to their economic costs. RESULTS: The new version of the computer programme (BASS 4) can now simultaneously take into account numerous ergonomic, legal, agreed and economic criteria for the design and evaluation of working hours. CONCLUSIONS: BASS 4 can now be used as an instrument for the design and the evaluation of working hours with regard to legal, ergonomic and economic aspects at the shop floor as well as in administrative (e.g. health and safety inspection) and research problems.

Optical Filter Design Using Background Wavelength Processing Techniques

Amorphous SiC tandem heterostructures are used to filter a specific band, in the visible range. Experimental and simulated results are compared to validate the use of SiC multilayered structures in applications where gain compensation is needed or to attenuate unwanted wavelengths. Spectral response data acquired under different frequencies, optical wavelength control and side irradiations are analyzed. Transfer function characteristics are discussed. Color pulsed communication channels are transmitted together and the output signal analyzed under different background conditions. Results show that under controlled wavelength backgrounds, the device sensitivity is enhanced in a precise wavelength range and quenched in the others, tuning or suppressing a specific band. Depending on the background wavelength and irradiation side, the device acts either as a long-, a short-, or a band-rejection pass filter. An optoelectronic model supports the experimental results and gives insight on the physics of the device.

Optimal design for active damping in sandwich structures using the Direct MultiSearch method

This paper addresses the problem of optimal positioning of surface bonded piezoelectric patches in sandwich plates with viscoelastic core and laminated face layers. The objective is to maximize a set of modal loss factors for a given frequency range using multiobjective topology optimization. Active damping is introduced through co-located negative velocity feedback control. The multiobjective topology optimization problem is solved using the Direct MultiSearch Method. An application to a simply supported sandwich plate is presented with results for the maximization of the first six modal loss factors. The influence of the finite element mesh is analyzed and the results are, to some extent, compared with those obtained using alternative single objective optimization. (C) 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.