Mineralogical compositions of sediment samples from the San Francisco Bay coastal system

The mineralogical compositions of 119 samples collected from throughout the San Francisco Bay coastal system, including bayfloor and seafloor, area beaches, cliff outcrops, and major drainages, were determined using X-ray diffraction (XRD). Comparison of the mineral concentrations and application of statistical cluster analysis of XRD spectra allowed for the determination of provenances and transport pathways. The use of XRD mineral identifications provides semi-quantitative compositions needed for comparisons of beach and offshore sands with potential cliff and river sources, but the innovative cluster analysis of XRD diffraction spectra provides a unique visualization of how groups of samples within the San Francisco Bay coastal system are related so that sand-sized sediment transport pathways can be inferred. The main vector for sediment transport as defined by the XRD analysis is from San Francisco Bay to the outer coast, where the sand then accumulates on the ebb tidal delta and also moves alongshore. This mineralogical link defines a critical pathway because large volumes of sediment have been removed from the Bay over the last century via channel dredging, aggregate mining, and borrow pit mining, with comparable volumes of erosion from the ebb tidal delta over the same period, in addition to high rates of shoreline retreat along the adjacent, open-coast beaches. Therefore, while previously only a temporal relationship was established, the transport pathway defined by mineralogical and geochemical tracers support the link between anthropogenic activities in the Bay and widespread erosion outside the Bay. The XRD results also establish the regional and local importance of sediment derived from cliff erosion, as well as both proximal and distal fluvial sources. This research is an important contribution to a broader provenance study aimed at identifying the driving forces for widespread geomorphic change in a heavily urbanized coastal-estuarine system.

The interstitial subsoil fauna on the beach of Sarso Island, Red Sea

The scope of this research was to find out, how important is the presence of brackish water for the formation of the characteristical littoral subsoil fauna in the interstitial spaces of beaches. There is little precipitation in the Red Sea area and therefore little influence of freshwater on the beach. Moreover, the sandy beach of Sarso Island (Farasan Archipelago) is bordered landwards and underneath by solid limestone, preventing subsoil fresh water, if there is any, from penetrating into the beach region. The salinity of the interstitial water from Sarso beach lies a little above the salinity of the adjacent sea. The microfauna of Sarso beach is composed to a rather big proportion of such species that are known to be characteristical littoral subsoil water species, partially of world wide distribution. The ecological analysis of this fauna, i.e. the freeliving Nematodes, reveals the presence of two distinct associations: 1. the association of the low level subsoil region, close to the sea, with clear interstitial water, subject to regular exchange with the water of the adjcent sea. 2. the association of the high level subsoil region, 4-10 meter distant from the sea, with brownish water. Contrary to earlier results there is no distinction in salinity between the two associations, so it is not longer justified to apply the term brackish water fauna on the animals living in the association of the high level subsoil region.

Sand resources on the Inner Continental Shelf of the Cape Fear region, North Carolina /

"November 1977."

Beach changes at Long Beach Island, New Jersey, 1962-73 /

Beach profile line data collected from 32 profile sites along Long Beach Island, New Jersey. A total of 2,158 profile line surveys were examined, using empirical eigenfunction analysis and other measures of beach variability. Most profile lines have shown an accretionary trend since 1962 with rates between 2.3 and 0.24 meter per year in spite of erosion estimates due to sea level rise on the order of 0.68 meter per year. A great deal of variability in profile line change takes place along the beach, increasing from north to south, due to the location of profile lines relative to structures and offshore linear shoals. Detailed closely spaced profile lines taken over a year in a groin field near the north end of the island indicate littoral transport directions shift from north to south. Evidence of a littoral transport node near the north end of the groin field has been found. Net transport of the node is toward the south, but the rate could not be established due to lack of adequate wave data. Profile line variability within groin cells shows that single profile lines are not sufficient to determine the net change within a cell. The design of future beach monitoring studies should consider coastal structures, offshore bathymetry, the method of analysis, and the scales of processes under study. A coastal storm in November 1968 moved the MSL back as much as 22 meters; however, the beach recovered without artificial measures. The offshore bathymetry shows a series of shoreface-connected linear shoals at several locations along the island. Limited data show that these have remained stable and that most beach variability takes place in water shallower than 3 meters.

Sand resources of southern Lake Erie, Conneaut to Toledo, Ohio : a seismic reflection and vibracore study /

"November 1980."

Analysis of coastal sediment transport processes from Wrightsville Beach to Fort Fisher, North Carolina /

A comprehensive engineering analysis of the coastal sediment transport processes along a 42-kilometer segment of the North Carolina shoreline from Wrightsville Beach to Fort Fisher is presented. Included in the analysis is an interpretation of the littoral processes, longshore transport, and the behavior and success of beach nourishment projects at Wrightsville Beach and Carolina Beach, North Carolina. The historical position of the MLW, MSL, and MHW contours, relative to a fixed base line, is plotted for the period between 1964 and 1975. An equivalent volumetric erosion or accretion between successive surveys is determined by multiplying the average excursion distance of the contours by a constant of proportionality. The plots of excursion distance versus time for the MLW, MSL, and MHW contours also show the time response of the beach fills. This response is described by a mathematical function. The alongshore components of wave-induced energy flux are also determined within the study area through wave refraction analysis. This information, together with the information on volumetric change, is used in a sediment budget analysis to determine the coefficient of alongshore sediment transport and the inlet trapping characteristics. (Author).

Benthic fauna of an offshore borrow area in Broward County, Florida /

Benthic fauna from two stations within a 5-year-old borrow area and two control stations off Hillsboro Beach (Broward County), Florida, were sampled quarterly from June 1977 to March 1978 to evaluate the long-term impact of offshore dredging. Generally enhanced productivities occurred within the borrow area, although there was much seasonal variation among stations. Species diversities were usually higher at the borrow stations than at the control stations. The single exception was due to a high concentration of the bivalve E. nitens at one of the control stations in June. Although faunal similarity analysis revealed a qualitative change in the fauna of the borrow area, this change is not considered detrimental. Conspicuous patterns of heterogeneous faunal distributions were evident in this study, particularly for the bivalve E. nitens. No lasting detrimental effects, in terms of numbers of species, faunal densities, or species diversity, resulted from the dredging operation. (Author).

Long-term effects of beach nourishment on the benthic fauna of Panama City Beach, Florida /

The long-term effects of beach nourishment on the benthic infauna and surface sediments of Panama City beaches were investigated. Forty-seven stations located on nine transects between West Pass and Philips Inlet, and two nourishment borrow sites were sampled in November-December 1979 and May 1980. The data collected were compared to prenourishment base-line information collected by Saloman (1976). Abiotic parameters, water temperature, dissolved oxygen and salinity were measured. Sediments were analyzed for particle-size distribution, percent organic carbon and percent carbonate. Benthic macroinvertebrates were represented by 162 taxa of 14 major animal phyla. Species composition and faunal densities varied seasonally. Polychaetes and amphipods were the most abundant animal groups; a small number of species were dominant at nearly all stations. Species diversity was lowest in the swash zone and sandbar stations and highest offshore. Sediment composition was similar to that of Saloman's (1976) study within limits of sampling and processing errors. Faunal composition was found to be different from 1976 but was attributed to normal seasonal and spatial variations. Based on benthic community analyses and sediment parameters, no significant differences were found between nourishment borrow sites and surrounding areas and in the nearshore areas where beach nourishment was conducted. No long-term adverse effects of beach nourishment were detected. (Author).

Long-term changes in beach fauna at Duck, North Carolina /

Long-term changes in the beach fauna at Duck, North Carolina, were investigated. Twenty-one stations located on three transects on the oceanside and twenty-four stations located on three transects on the sound side were sampled seasonally from November 1980 to July 1981. The data collected in this study were compared to a previous study conducted in 1976 (Matta, 1977) to investigate the potential effects of the construction of the CERC Field Research Facility pier on the adjacent beaches. No effects on the benthic fauna were found. Changes observed in the benthic macrofauna on the ocean beaches were well within the range attributable to the natural variation of an open coast system. The ocean beach macrofauna was observed to form a single community migrating on an off the beach with the seasons. On the sound beaches, changes were detected in the benthic macrofauna; however, these were attributed to a salinity increase during the 1981 sampling year. (Author).

Effects of beach nourishment on the nearshore environment in Lake Huron at Lexington Harbor (Michigan) /

In October 1980 the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers conducted a beach nourishment project at the Lexington (Michigan) Harbor on the southwest shore of Lake Huron, a project designed to mitigate beach erosion attributable to the installation of the harbor. In response to a request from the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC), the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service's Great Lakes Fishery Laboratory conducted a Corps-funded study from June 1980 to October 1981 along a 8.4-kilometer segment of shoreline adjacent to the harbor to determine the effect of the Corps' beach nourishment project on the nearshore aquatic environment. The study performed by the service included aerial photographic surveys of the study area; measurement of dissolved oxygen, turbidity, and suspended particulate matter levels; and collection of lake bottom sediments, macrozoobenthos and fish. Analysis of the aerial photographs showed that the beach face profile changed markedly during the study as a result of beach nourishment. Dredging of about 19,000 cubic meters of beach sediment from an accretion area adjacent to the harbor's north breakwater caused the beach face to recede, while deposition of this sediment on a feeder beach south of the harbor caused the beach face there to extend lakeward.

Effects of beach nourishment and borrowing on marine organisms /

"December 1982."

Beach fauna study of the CERC Field Research Facility, Duck, North Carolina /

Issued April 1977.

Ecological evaluation of a beach nourishment project at Hallandale (Broward County), Florida /

Contract no.: DACW72-77-M-0639 (v.2).

Sand resources on the inner continental shelf of the Cape May region, New Jersey /

"July 1980."