Writing fashion’s future: the gods and monsters of the Anthropocene

This paper identifies two narratives of the Anthropocene and explores how they play out in the realm of future-looking fashion production. Each narrative draws on mythic comparisons to gods and monsters to express humanity’s dilemmas, albeit from different perspectives. The first is a Malthusian narrative of collapse and scarcity, brought about by the monstrous, unstoppable nature of human technology set loose on the natural world. In this vein, philosopher Slavoj Zizek (2010) draws on Biblical analogies, likening ecological crisis to one of the four horsemen of the apocalypse. To find a myth to suit the present times, novelist A.S Byatt (2011) proposes Ragnarök, a Norse myth in which the gods destroy themselves. In contrast, the second narrative is one of technological cornucopia. Stewart Brand (2009, 27), self-described ‘eco-pragmatist’ writes, ‘we are as gods and we have to get good at it’. In his view, human technologies offer the only hope to mitigating the problems caused by human technology – Brand suggests harnessing nuclear power, bioengineering of crops and the geoengineering of the planet as the way forward. Similarly, the French philosopher Bruno Latour (2012, 274), exhorts us to “love our monsters”, likening our technologies to Doctor Frankenstein’s monster – set loose upon the world, and then reviled by his creator. For both Brand and Latour, human technology may be monstrous, but it must also be turned toward solutions. Within this schema, hopeful visions of the future of fashion are similarly divided. In the techno-enabled cornucopian future, the fashion industry embraces wearable technology, speed and efficiency. Technologies such as waterless dyeing, 3D printing and self-cleaning garments shift fashion into a new era of cleaner production. Meanwhile, in the narrative of scarcity, a more cautious approach sees fashion return to a new localism and valuing of the hand-made in a time of shrinking resources. Through discussion of future-looking fashion designers, brands, and activists, this paper explores how they may align along a spectrum to one of these two grand narratives of the future. The paper will discuss how these narratives may unconsciously shape the perspective of both producers and users around the fashion of today and the fashion of tomorrow. This paper poses the question: what stories can be written for fashion’s future in the Anthropocene, and are they fated, or can they be re-written?

Raw data for "Linkage disequilibrium estimation of effective population size with immigrants from divergent populations: a case study on Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus commerson)."

Abstract of Macbeth, G. M., Broderick, D., Buckworth, R. & Ovenden, J. R. (In press, Feb 2013). Linkage disequilibrium estimation of effective population size with immigrants from divergent populations: a case study on Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus commerson). G3: Genes, Genomes and Genetics. Estimates of genetic effective population size (Ne) using molecular markers are a potentially useful tool for the management of endangered through to commercial species. But, pitfalls are predicted when the effective size is large, as estimates require large numbers of samples from wild populations for statistical validity. Our simulations showed that linkage disequilibrium estimates of Ne up to 10,000 with finite confidence limits can be achieved with sample sizes around 5000. This was deduced from empirical allele frequencies of seven polymorphic microsatellite loci in a commercially harvested fisheries species, the narrow barred Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus commerson). As expected, the smallest standard deviation of Ne estimates occurred when low frequency alleles were excluded. Additional simulations indicated that the linkage disequilibrium method was sensitive to small numbers of genotypes from cryptic species or conspecific immigrants. A correspondence analysis algorithm was developed to detect and remove outlier genotypes that could possibly be inadvertently sampled from cryptic species or non-breeding immigrants from genetically separate populations. Simulations demonstrated the value of this approach in Spanish mackerel data. When putative immigrants were removed from the empirical data, 95% of the Ne estimates from jacknife resampling were above 24,000.

Albert Einstein writing; California Portraits; Men

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Albert Einstein writing at desk Portraits; Men

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Artist Rafaello Busoni seated and writing at a desk; Berlin.

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Contact lens citation metrics: The Spanish connection

To eye care practitioners, citation metrics may seem to be a somewhat esoteric and irrelevant concept, far removed from the realities or real world, day-to-day clinical practice. However, quantitative analysis of the published literature is becoming increasingly important, and a beautiful example of this is presented in this issue of the Journal of Optometry. My former PhD student, Genís Cardona, has teamed up with Joan Sanz to undertake a thorough and telling analysis of current worldwide publishing trends in the contact lens field. When held in the mirror, this work reflects the growing contributions from Spanish researchers to the field...

Staff member writing at desk; Juedische Winterhilfe der Juedische Gemeinde; Berlin Jewish Institutions

"Leitung und Mitarbeiter der Juedischen Winterhilfe gratulieren herzlich zum 70. Beburtstage"

Felicia Lachmann Mosse seated at writing desk; Mosse family residence; Berlin Portraits Women

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Morris Rosenfeld papers, 1898.

Contains correspondence from M.R. and his translator, Leo Wiener, to F.H. Day, publisher, concerning M.R.'s poems in English translation, entitled, Songs from the ghetto.

Letter from Simeon Leo to his father

Letter from Simeon Leo, Esq. to his father on paper torn from a notebook. Written in broken English.

Democratic Party invitation (form letter)

Form political letter. Printed on Executive Committee stationery with handwritten salutation in blue ink. Invitation to be a Vice President to ratify nominations of Greely and Brown, Democratic party.

Condolence letter

Letter in English script. Condolence letter on death of Dr. Leo's father.

Condolence letter

Letter in English on black bordered stationary with elaborate initials. Addressed to Aunt Hannah from Milly. MSL (Millicent S. Leo?) in black upper left.

Letter of condolence

Letter on death of Mrs. Leo in English script on white paper from Ed. P. Nathan

Letter on the election of Dr. Leo to the position of Honorary Secretary of Home for Aged and Infirm

Letter: Dr. Leo elected Honorary Secretary of Home for Aged and Infirm. Written in English script.