A water footprint assessment of a pair of jeans: the influence of agricultural policies on the sustainability of consumer products.

This study reports the results of a water footprint (WF) assessment of five types of textiles commonly used for the production of jeans, including two different fibres (cotton and Lyocell fibre) and five corresponding production methods for spinning, dyeing and weaving. The results show that the fibre production is the stage with the highest water consumption, being cotton production particularly relevant. Therefore, the study pays particular attention to the water footprint of cotton production and analyses the effects of external factors influencing the water footprint of a product, in this case, the incentives provided by the EU Common Agricultural Policy (CAP), and the relevance of agricultural practices to the water footprint of a product is emphasised. An extensification of the crop production led to higher WF per unit, but a lower overall pressure on the basins water resources. This study performs a sustainability assessment of the estimated cotton WFs with the water scarcity index, as proposed by Hoekstra et al. (2011), and shows their variations in different years as a result of different water consumption by crops in the rest of the river basin. In our case, we applied the assessment to the Guadalquivir, Guadalete and Barbate river basins, three semi-arid rivers in South Spain. Because they are found to be relevant, the available water stored in dams and the outflow are also incorporated as reference points for the sustainability assessment. The study concludes that, in the case of Spanish cotton production, the situation of the basin and the policy impact are more relevant for the status of the basin s water resources than the actual WF of cotton production. Therefore, strategies aimed at reducing the impact of the water footprint of a product need to analyse both the WF along the value chain and within the local context.

Manual Control de calidad en productos textiles y afines

El campo de los materiales textiles y afines no suele estar incluido dentro de la disciplina de Conocimiento de materiales o en ocasiones suele estar mínimamente contemplado dentro del área de materiales plásticos y polímeros; por lo cual en general suele ser muy desconocido en la formación de ingenieros y técnicos. Históricamente en las escuelas de ingenieros industriales se encontraba la especialización en industrias textiles, aunque con posterioridad pasó a formar una carrera propia como tal Ingeniero Textil. Es de resaltar también, la importancia del sector textil como de otros muchos que encajan perfectamente dentro de la denominada Ciencia Industrial y de las Escuelas de Artes y Oficios que tanto pueden contribuir al desarrollo industrial y económico de los países. En la actualidad, queda patente la importancia del sector textil tradicional así como de los nuevos materiales textiles con aplicaciones especiales o funcionales que están siendo de amplio desarrollo e investigación. Quisiera resaltar también la importancia en la ingeniería de los textiles técnicos así como de aquellas fibras con aplicaciones estructurales y sometidas a solicitaciones mecánicas, térmicas, de aplicación militar, material deportivo, etc. También es de resaltar las aplicaciones en cordelería industrial, cabos, maromas, etc., de multitud de aplicaciones en sujeción, elementos mecánicos y estructurales. Lo que se pretende con esta compilación de cuestiones relacionados con textiles obtenidas de diversas fuentes, que nació como un resumen sobre materiales textiles y fibras para cursos de postgrado de la Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, es recoger de una forma fácilmente accesible, más completa y extensa, de fácil consulta, aquellos aspectos relacionados principalmente con la naturaleza de las fibras que normalmente se encuentran muy dispersos. Fundamentalmente se tratan aspectos como caracterización de fibras y tejidos, mezclas de fibras, tintes y tinción, funcionalidad y confort, análisis y control de calidad de producto acabado desde el punto de vista de aptitud al uso, caracterización morfológica de las fibras por microscopía, análisis químico cuantitativo según Normas y Directivas de la UE más actuales, características de los textiles en el campo de la restauración de patrimonio artístico, análisis forense de las fibras, etc. A partir de mi formación en ingeniería industrial, conocimiento de materiales dentro del campo de los polímeros y mi experiencia en análisis y control de calidad dentro de un laboratorio textil, así como cursos impartidos sobre análisis y control de calidad en tejidos; creo tener el bagaje suficiente para poder afrontar esta tarea y proporcionar una obra de consulta y ayuda a las personas interesadas en este campo del conocimiento.

Polyploid formation created unique avenues for response to selection in Gossypium (cotton)

A detailed restriction fragment length polymorphism map was used to determine the chromosomal locations and subgenomic distributions of quantitative trait loci (QTLs) segregating in a cross between cultivars of allotetraploid (AADD) Gossypium hirsutum (“Upland” cotton) and Gossypium barbadense (“Sea Island,” “Pima,” or “Egyptian” cotton) that differ markedly in the quality and quantity of seed epidermal fibers. Most QTLs influencing fiber quality and yield are located on the “D” subgenome, derived from an ancestor that does not produce spinnable fibers. D subgenome QTLs may partly account for the fact that domestication and breeding of tetraploid cottons has resulted in fiber yield and quality levels superior to those achieved by parallel improvement of “A” genome diploid cottons. The merger of two genomes with different evolutionary histories in a common nucleus appears to offer unique avenues for phenotypic response to selection. This may partly compensate for reduction in quantitative variation associated with polyploid formation and be one basis for the prominence of polyploids among extant angiosperms. These findings impel molecular dissection of the roles of divergent subgenomes in quantitative inheritance in many other polyploids and further exploration of both “synthetic” polyploids and exotic diploid genotypes for agriculturally useful variation.

Metabolic pathway engineering in cotton: Biosynthesis of polyhydroxybutyrate in fiber cells

Alcaligenes eutrophus genes encoding the enzymes, β-ketothiolase (phaA), acetoacetyl-CoA reductase (phaB), and polyhydroxyalkanoate synthase (phaC) catalyze the production of aliphatic polyester poly-d-(−)-3-hydroxybutyrate (PHB) from acetyl-CoA. PHB is a thermoplastic polymer that may modify fiber properties when synthesized in cotton. Endogenous β-ketothiolase activity is present in cotton fibers. Hence cotton was transformed with engineered phaB and phaC genes by particle bombardment, and transgenic plants were selected based on marker gene, β-glucuronidase (GUS), expression. Fibers of 10 transgenic plants expressed phaB gene, while eight plants expressed both phaB and phaC genes. Electron microscopy examination of fibers expressing both genes indicated the presence of electron-lucent granules in the cytoplasm. High pressure liquid chromatography, gas chromatography, and mass spectrometry evidence suggested that the new polymer produced in transgenic fibers is PHB. Sixty-six percent of the PHB in fibers is in the molecular mass range of 0.6 × 106 to 1.8 × 106 Da. The presence of PHB granules in transgenic fibers resulted in measurable changes of thermal properties. The fibers exhibited better insulating characteristics. The rate of heat uptake and cooling was slower in transgenic fibers, resulting in higher heat capacity. These data show that metabolic pathway engineering in cotton may enhance fiber properties by incorporating new traits from other genetic sources. This is an important step toward producing new generation fibers for the textile industry.

HIV type-1 infection of the cotton rat (Sigmodon fulviventer and S. hispidus)

Cotton rats (Sigmodon hispidus and S. fulviventer) are susceptible to many viruses that infect humans (e.g., poliovirus, respiratory syncytial virus, influenza virus, adenovirus, and parainfluenza virus) and have been influential in developing therapeutic clinical intervention strategies for many viral infections of man. This study set out to determine whether cotton rats are susceptible to infection with HIV type 1 (HIV-1). Results indicate that HIV-1 does infect the cotton rat and S. fulviventer is more susceptible than S. hispidus. The virus was passaged from animal to animal for a total of three serial passages; but HIV replicated poorly in vivo, was only detectable as proviral DNA, and never exceeded one provirus per 1.8 × 105 cotton rat peripheral blood mononuclear cells. Infection induced a distinct and characteristic anti-HIV antibody response that, in some animals, included neutralizing antibodies, recognized all of the major HIV-1 antigens and the antibodies lasted out to 52 wk post-infection. Neonate S. fulviventer were not more susceptible to infection than adults. In vitro culture studies produced indirect evidence of viral replication by detection of viral gag gene RNA in reverse transcriptase–PCR assays on viral culture supernatants. Collectively, these results indicate that HIV-1 can replicate in a nontransgenic rodent and that this system may have potential as an animal model for HIV-1 infection if viral replication rates can be improved in vivo.

Duplicated genes evolve independently after polyploid formation in cotton

Of the many processes that generate gene duplications, polyploidy is unique in that entire genomes are duplicated. This process has been important in the evolution of many eukaryotic groups, and it occurs with high frequency in plants. Recent evidence suggests that polyploidization may be accompanied by rapid genomic changes, but the evolutionary fate of discrete loci recently doubled by polyploidy (homoeologues) has not been studied. Here we use locus-specific isolation techniques with comparative mapping to characterize the evolution of homoeologous loci in allopolyploid cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) and in species representing its diploid progenitors. We isolated and sequenced 16 loci from both genomes of the allopolyploid, from both progenitor diploid genomes and appropriate outgroups. Phylogenetic analysis of the resulting 73.5 kb of sequence data demonstrated that for all 16 loci (14.7 kb/genome), the topology expected from organismal history was recovered. In contrast to observations involving repetitive DNAs in cotton, there was no evidence of interaction among duplicated genes in the allopolyploid. Polyploidy was not accompanied by an obvious increase in mutations indicative of pseudogene formation. Additionally, differences in rates of divergence among homoeologues in polyploids and orthologues in diploids were indistinguishable across loci, with significant rate deviation restricted to two putative pseudogenes. Our results indicate that most duplicated genes in allopolyploid cotton evolve independently of each other and at the same rate as those of their diploid progenitors. These indications of genic stasis accompanying polyploidization provide a sharp contrast to recent examples of rapid genomic evolution in allopolyploids.

The Involvement of Hydrogen Peroxide in the Differentiation of Secondary Walls in Cotton Fibers1

H2O2 is a widespread molecule in many biological systems. It is created enzymatically in living cells during various oxidation reactions and by leakage of electrons from the electron transport chains. Depending on the concentration H2O2 can induce cell protective responses, programmed cell death, or necrosis. Here we provide evidence that H2O2 may function as a developmental signal in the differentiation of secondary walls in cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) fibers. Three lines of evidence support this conclusion: (a) the period of H2O2 generation coincided with the onset of secondary wall deposition, (b) inhibition of H2O2 production or scavenging the available H2O2 from the system prevented the wall differentiation process, and (c) exogenous addition of H2O2 prematurely promoted secondary wall formation in young fibers. Furthermore, we provide support for the concept that H2O2 generation could be mediated by the expression of the small GTPase Rac, the accumulation of which was shown previously to be strongly induced during the onset of secondary wall differentiation. In support of Rac's role in the activation of NADPH oxidase and the generation of reactive oxygen species, we transformed soybean (Glycine max) and Arabidopsis cells with mutated Rac genes. Transformation with a dominantly activated cotton Rac13 gene resulted in constitutively higher levels of H2O2, whereas transformation with the antisense and especially with dominant-negative Rac constructs decreased the levels of H2O2.

GTPase Activity and Biochemical Characterization of a Recombinant Cotton Fiber Annexin1

A cDNA encoding annexin was isolated from a cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) fiber cDNA library. The cDNA was expressed in Escherichia coli, and the resultant recombinant protein was purified. We then investigated some biochemical properties of the recombinant annexin based on the current understanding of plant annexins. An “add-back experiment” was performed to study the effect of the recombinant annexin on β-glucan synthase activity, but no effect was found. However, it was found that the recombinant annexin could display ATPase/GTPase activities. The recombinant annexin showed much higher GTPase than ATPase activity. Mg2+ was essential for these activities, whereas a high concentration of Ca2+ was inhibitory. A photolabeling assay showed that this annexin could bind GTP more specifically than ATP. The GTP-binding site on the annexin was mapped into the carboxyl-terminal fourth repeat of annexin from the photolabeling experiment using domain-deletion mutants of this annexin. Northern-blot analysis showed that the annexin gene was highly expressed in the elongation stages of cotton fiber differentiation, suggesting a role of this annexin in cell elongation.

A Fiberless Seed Mutation in Cotton Is Associated with Lack of Fiber Cell Initiation in Ovule Epidermis and Alterations in Sucrose Synthase Expression and Carbon Partitioning in Developing Seeds1

Fiber cell initiation in the epidermal cells of cotton (Gossypium hirsutum L.) ovules represents a unique example of trichome development in higher plants. Little is known about the molecular and metabolic mechanisms controlling this process. Here we report a comparative analysis of a fiberless seed (fls) mutant (lacking fibers) and a normal (FLS) mutant to better understand the initial cytological events in fiber development and to analyze the metabolic changes that are associated with the loss of a major sink for sucrose during cellulose biosynthesis in the mutant seeds. On the day of anthesis (0 DAA), the mutant ovular epidermal cells lacked the typical bud-like projections that are seen in FLS ovules and are required for commitment to the fiber development pathway. Cell-specific gene expression analyses at 0 DAA showed that sucrose synthase (SuSy) RNA and protein were undetectable in fls ovules but were in abundant, steady-state levels in initiating fiber cells of the FLS ovules. Tissue-level analyses of developing seeds 15 to 35 DAA revealed an altered temporal pattern of SuSy expression in the mutant relative to the normal genotype. Whether the altered programming of SuSy expression is the cause or the result of the mutation is unknown. The developing seeds of the fls mutant have also shown several correlated changes that represent altered carbon partitioning in seed coats and cotyledons as compared with the FLS genotype.

Genes Involved in Osmoregulation during Turgor-Driven Cell Expansion of Developing Cotton Fibers Are Differentially Regulated1

Cotton (Gossypium hirsutum L.) fibers are single-celled trichomes that synchronously undergo a phase of rapid cell expansion, then a phase including secondary cell wall deposition, and finally maturation. To determine if there is coordinated regulation of gene expression during fiber expansion, we analyzed the expression of components involved in turgor regulation and a cytoskeletal protein by measuring levels of mRNA and protein accumulation and enzyme activity. Fragments of the genes for the plasma membrane proton-translocating ATPase, vacuole-ATPase, proton-translocating pyrophosphatase (PPase), phosphoenolpyruvate carboxylase, major intrinsic protein, and α-tubulin were amplified by polymerase chain reaction and used as probes in ribonuclease protection assays of RNA from a fiber developmental series, revealing two discrete patterns of mRNA accumulation. Transcripts of all but the PPase accumulated to highest levels during the period of peak expansion (+12–15 d postanthesis [dpa]), then declined with the onset of secondary cell wall synthesis. The PPase was constitutively expressed through fiber development. Activity of the two proton-translocating-ATPases peaked at +15 dpa, whereas PPase activity peaked at +20 dpa, suggesting that all are involved in the process of cell expansion but with varying roles. Patterns of protein accumulation and enzyme activity for some of the proteins examined suggest posttranslational regulation through fiber development.

Foreign words in the English of textiles

All references and quotations to be made to the original, i.e. Balteiro Fernández, M. Isabel. 2009. “Foreign Words in the English of Textiles”. In Linde, A. and Crespo, R. Ed. Professional English in the European Context: The EHEA Challenge. Bern: Peter Lang. Pp. 127-150

Pacific Mills, Lawrence, Mass., Dover, N.H., Columbia, S.C... are the largest manufacturers in the world of cotton goods

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Payment order for Josiah Cotton, 1722 September 10

Handwritten order to Penn Townsend to pay scholarship funds to student Josiah Cotton (Harvard AB 1722), signed by Benjamin Wadsworth, Thomas Foxcroft, Samuel Marshall, and Jonathan Williams.

Payment order for Rowland Cotton, 1726 October 17

Handwritten order to Penn Townsend to pay scholarship funds to Rowland Cotton on behalf of his son Ward Cotton (Harvard AB 1729), signed by Thomas Foxcroft, John Marion, Samuel Marshall, and Jonathan Williams.