345 resultados para Cosmetics


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C-ficocianina (C-FC) é uma ficobiliproteína, de cor natural azul, com diversas aplicações na indústria alimentícia, farmacêutica e biomédica, dependendo do seu grau específico de pureza, que pode variar de 0,7 a 4,0, com respectivo aumento de seu valor comercial. Essa pureza é alcançada através de diversas técnicas de purificação, que podem ser aplicadas em diferentes sequências. Um destes processos de purificação de proteínas baseia-se na cromatografia de troca iônica, que utiliza trocadores que adsorvem as proteínas como resultado de interações iônicas entre a superfície da proteína e o trocador. Resinas e colunas de leito expandido podem ser utilizadas para aumentar a produtividade dessa técnica. É fundamental conhecer o perfil do processo de adsorção, para melhor aplicá-lo como ferramenta para o design e otimização de parâmetros operacionais. Outra tecnologia para o tratamento de biomoléculas é a ultrafiltração. Esta técnica é aplicável em larga escala, apresenta baixa complexidade de aplicação e pode ser realizada em condições brandas, minimizando o dano para o produto. Para aumentar a estabilidade da C-FC, e facilitar a sua aplicação, podem ser avaliadas técnicas recentes, não exploradas para este fim, como as nanofibras obtidas através do processo de electrospinning. Estas fibras possuem uma área superficial específica extremamente elevada devido a seu pequeno diâmetro. O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar parâmetros de adsorção e diferentes técnicas para purificação de C-ficocianina de Spirulina platensis e obter nanofibras poliméricas incorporadas de C-ficocianina. O trabalho foi dividido em quatro artigos. No primeiro artigo, foram avaliados os parâmetros e as isotermas de adsorção de C-ficocianina em resina de troca iônica para leito expandido Streamline® DEAE. Verificou-se que o maior coeficiente de partição foi obtido em pH 7,5, nas temperaturas de 15 e 25 °C. As isotermas de adsorção da Cficocianina foram bem representadas pelos modelos de Langmuir, de Freundlich e de Langmuir-Freundlich, sendo os valores estimados para Qm e Kd obtidos pela isoterma de Langmuir foram, respectivamente, 33,92 mg.mL-1 e 0,123 mg.mL-1, respectivamente. No segundo artigo foi avaliada a purificação de C-FC até grau alimentar, utilizando ultrafiltração (UF). Com a membrana de 50 kDa, identificou-se que somente a temperatura e a aplicação de diferentes ciclos de diafiltração (DF) causaram influência significativa sobre a purificação e recuperação da C-ficocianina. Foram então aplicados o aumento gradativo da quantidade de ciclos, e a diafiltração previamente à ultrafiltração (DF/UF), onde obteve-se um extrato de Cficocianina com pureza de 0,95. No terceiro artigo foram propostos processos de purificação, envolvendo a utilização das diferentes técnicas para obtenção de C-FC com diferentes purezas. Determinou-se que a partir de cromatografia de troca iônica em leito fixo seguido de DF/UF, obtém-se C-FC para uso em cosméticos e a partir de precipitação com sulfato de amônio, e DF/UF obtém-se C-FC para uso em biomarcadores. Com uma sequência de precipitação com sulfato de amônio, DF/UF e cromatografia de troca iônica em leito fixo chega-se a C-FC de grau analítico. No último artigo, C-FC foi incorporada a nanofibras de óxido de polietileno (PEO) através de processo de electrospinning. Foram determinadas a condutividade da solução de C-FC/PEO, a estrutura e comportamento termogravimétrico das nanofibras formadas. Soluções de polímeros com concentração de 6 e 8% proporcionaram a formação de nanofibras com diâmetro médio inferior a 800 nm, homogêneas, sem a presença de gotas. A análise termogravimétrica identificou aumento na resistência térmica da C-FC incorporada nas fibras.

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Alginate microgels are widely used as delivery systems in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries for encapsulation and sustained release of hydrophilic compounds and cells. However, the encapsulation of lipophilic molecules inside these microgels remains a great challenge because of the complex oil-core matrix required. The present study describes an original two-step approach allowing the easy encapsulation of several oil microdroplets within alginate microgels. In the first step, stable oil microdroplets were formed by preparing an oil-in-water (O/W) Pickering emulsion. To stabilize this emulsion, we used two solid particles, namely the cotton cellulose nanocrystals (CNC) and calcium carbonate (CaCO3). It was observed that the surface of the oil microdroplets formed was totally covered by a CNC layer, whereas CaCO3 particles were adsorbed onto the cellulose layer. This solid CNC shell efficiently stabilized the oil microdroplets, preventing them from undesired coalescence. In the second step, oil microdroplets resulting from the Pickering emulsion were encapsulated within alginate microgels using microfluidics. Precisely, the outermost layer of oil microdroplets composed of CaCO3 particles was used to initiate alginate gelation inside the microfluidic device, following the internal gelation mode. The released Ca2+ ions induced the gel formation through physical cross-linking with alginate molecules. This innovative and easy to carry out two-step approach was successfully developed to fabricate monodisperse alginate microgels of 85 pm in diameter containing around 12 oil microdroplets of 15 mu m in diameter. These new oil-core alginate microgels represent an attractive system for encapsulation of lipophilic compounds such as vitamins, aroma compounds or anticancer drugs that could be applied in various domains including food, cosmetics, and medical applications.

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Galactans are polysaccharides sulfated present in the cell wall of red algae. Carrageenans are galactans well known in the food industry as gelling polysaccharides and for induce inflammatory process in rodents as animal model. The extraction of polysaccharides from A. multifida has been carried out by proteolysis and precipitation in different volumes of acetone, which produced three fractions (F1, F2, and FT). Chemical and physical analyses revealed that these fractions are sulfated galactan predominantly. Results of the antioxidant activity assays showed that all of these fractions have antioxidant activity and that was associated with sulfate content of the analysis of reducing power and total antioxidant capacity. However, these fractions were not effective against lipid peroxidation. The fraction FT presented higher activity on the APTT test at 200 μg (> 240 s). The assessment of the hemolytic activity showed that the FT fraction has the best activity, increasing lyses by the complement system to 42.3% (50 μg) (p< 0,001). The fraction FT showed the best yield, anticoagulant and hemolytic activity between the three fractions and therefore it was choose for the in vivo studies. The Inflammation assessment using the FT fraction (50 mg / kg MB) showed that the cellular migration and the IL-6 production increased 670.1% (p< 0,001) and 531.8% (p< 0,001), respectively. These results confirmed its use as an inflammation inducer in animal model. Cytotoxicity assay results showed that all fractions have toxic effects on 3T3 and HeLa cells after exposition of 48 hours, except when 100 μg for both F1 and FT were used. These results arise the discussion whether these polysaccharides it should be used as additive in foods, cosmetics and medicines.

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Betacyanins are betalain pigments that display a red-violet colour which have been reported to be three times stronger than the red-violet dye produced by anthocyanins [1]. The applications of betacyanins cover a wide range of matrices, mainly as additives or ingredients in the food industry, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and livestock feed. Although, being less commonly used than anthocyanins and carotenoids, betacyanins are stable between pH 3 to 7 and suitable for colouring in low acid matrices. In addition, betacyanins have been reported to display interesting medicinal character as powerful antioxidant and chemopreventive compounds either in vitro or in vivo models [2]. Betacyanins are obtained mainly from the red beet of Beta vulgaris plant (between I 0 to 20 mg per I 00 g pulp) but alternative primary sources are needed [3]. In addition, independently of the source used, the effect of the variables that affect the extraction of betacyanins have not been properly described and quantified. Therefore, the aim of this study was to identifY and optimize the conditions that maximize betacyanins extraction using the tepals of Gomphrena globosa L. flowers as an alternative source. Assisted by the statistical technique of response surface methodology, an experimental design was developed for testing the significant explanatory variables of the extraction (time, temperature, solid-liquid ratio and ethanolwater ratio). The identification was performed using high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with a photodiode array detector and mass spectrometry with electron spray ionization (HPLC-PDAMS/ ESI) and the response was measured by the quantification of these compounds using HPLC-PDA. Afterwards, a response surface analysis was performed to evaluate the results. The major betacyanin compounds identified were gomphrenin 11 and Ill and isogomphrenin IJ and Ill. The highest total betacyanins content was obtained by using the following conditions: 45 min of extraction. time, 35•c, 35 g/L of solid-liquid ratio and 25% of ethanol. These values would not be found without optimizing the conditions of the betacyanins extraction, which moreover showed contrary trends to what it has been described in the scientific bibliography. More specifically, concerning the time and temperature variables, an increase of both values (from the common ones used in the bibliography) showed a considerable improvement on the betacyanins extraction yield without displaying any type of degradation patterns.

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The production and use of synthetic nanoparticles is growing rapidly, and therefore the presence of these materials in the environment seems inevitable. Titanium dioxide (TiO2) presents various possible uses in industry, cosmetics, and even in the treatment of contaminated environments. Studies about the potential ecotoxicological risks of TiO2 nanoparticles (nano-TiO2) have been published but their results are still inconclusive. It should be noted that the properties of the diverse nano-TiO2 must be considered in order to establish experimental models to study their toxicity to environmentally relevant species. Moreover, the lack of descriptions and characterization of nanoparticles, as well as differences in the experimental conditions employed, have been a compromising factor in the comparison of results obtained in various studies. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to make a simple review of the principal properties of TiO2, especially in nanoparticulate form, which should be considered in aquatic toxicology studies, and a compilation of the works that have been published on the subject.

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The search for novel compounds of marine origin has increased in the last decades for their application in various areas such as pharmaceutical, human or animal nutrition, cosmetics or bioenergy. In this context of blue technology development, microalgae are of particular interest due to their immense biodiversity and their relatively simple growth needs. In this review, we discuss about the promising use of microalgae and microalgal compounds as sources of natural antibiotics against human pathogens but also about their potential to limit microbial infections in aquaculture. An alternative to conventional antibiotics is needed as the microbial resistance to these drugs is increasing in humans and animals. Furthermore, using natural antibiotics for livestock could meet the consumer demand to avoid chemicals in food, would support a sustainable aquaculture and present the advantage of being environmentally friendly. Using natural and renewable microalgal compounds is still in its early days, but considering the important research development and rapid improvement in culture, extraction and purification processes, the valorization of microalgae will surely extend in the future.

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Tese de Doutoramento, Ciências Agrárias, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Universidade do Algarve, 2015

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Purpose: To investigate the protective effect of green tea (-)-epigallocatechin gallate (EGCg) on ultraviolet B (UV-B)-induced skin damages in hairless mice in order to develop a natural sunscreen compound for use in skin care products and cosmetics. Methods: EGCg was dissolved in acetone at concentrations of 1.0, 10.0 and 50.0 mg/mL, and topically applied to the skin of hairless mice at doses of 0.2 mL/cm2, with acetone as control. The mice were then irradiatd m2 UV-B for 30 min daily. EGCg treatment and UV-B irradiation were carried out daily for 28 consecutive days. The mice were then sacrificed and their dorsal skin examined by transmission electron microscopy (TEM) on the 28th day. Results: UV-B irradiation induced severe macroscopic skin damage including chapping, cracking and abnormal desquamation in the treated hairless mice. EGCg showed dose-dependent protective effects against UV-B induced damage on the skin. Treatments with 10.0 and 50.0 mg/mL EGCg alleviated UVB-induced skin damage by suppressing both keratinocyte apoptosis and mitochondrial dysfunction, along with inhibiting the production of melanin pigment. Conclusion: Topical application of green tea EGCg shows dose-dependent protective effect against UV-B-induced damage on hairless mouse skin. Thus, the plant compound can potentially be used as an alternative agent for photoprotection against UV-B exposure.

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El siguiente trabajo analiza el caso Natura, empresa seleccionada por el instituto Great Place to Work®, como el mejor lugar para trabajar en Colombia (dentro de la categoría de empresas de menos de 500 empleados en el 2014) -- Inicialmente, se realiza una síntesis de las teorías existentes con relación al clima laboral y las características fundamentales que hacen de las empresas lugares de trabajo sobresalientes -- Luego, se realiza un trabajo de campo, que se compone de entrevistas a los empleados y observación del entorno, con éste, se pretende identificar los factores de éxito y buenas prácticas que contribuyeron a que la empresa obtuviera este reconocimiento -- Se obtuvieron resultados concluyentes que permitieron la elaboración de un caso de estudio sobre el cual se buscará su publicación, y será utilizado con fines académicos en asignaturas relacionadas con la administración

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Les produits cosmétiques sont des substances utilisées pour entretenir ou modifier l'aspect des parties superficielles du corps humain (telles que la peau, les ongles ou les cheveux). Dans de nombreux pays d’Afrique et d’Asie et dans certaines communautés africaines immigrantes, plusieurs femmes et parfois des hommes utilisent des produits contenant des agents actifs tels que le mercure, l’hydroquinone et le propionate de clobétasol pour éclaircir leur peau. Ces principaux agents sont toxiques et leur présence dans les cosmétiques est règlementée, voire interdite, dans plusieurs pays. Dans notre étude, nous avons déterminé les concentrations de ces ingrédients dans plusieurs produits utilisés en Afrique de l’Ouest et au Canada. Nous avons également exploré l’effet de ces produits sur le microbiome cutané. Nos résultats révèlent que 68 à 84% des crèmes et 7.5 à 65% des savons dépassent les normes lorsqu’on considère l’interdiction de mercure, d’hydroquinone et de propionate de clobétasol et les concentrations déclarées sur les étiquettes ne sont pas souvent fiables. Selon la diversité de Shannon, il semble y avoir plus d’équitabilité, et donc moins de dominance dans le groupe des femmes utilisant les crèmes éclaircissantes que dans le groupe des femmes qui ne les utilisent pas. Par ailleurs, nous n’avons pas trouvé de différences significatives au niveau du microbiome cutané du groupe avec crèmes et sans crèmes au niveau du phylum et du genre. Cependant, d’autres méthodes plus approfondies avec plus d’échantillonnage pourraient révéler à des échelles plus fines (espèces, souches, etc.) l’effet de ces produits sur le microbiome cutané.

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Les produits cosmétiques sont des substances utilisées pour entretenir ou modifier l'aspect des parties superficielles du corps humain (telles que la peau, les ongles ou les cheveux). Dans de nombreux pays d’Afrique et d’Asie et dans certaines communautés africaines immigrantes, plusieurs femmes et parfois des hommes utilisent des produits contenant des agents actifs tels que le mercure, l’hydroquinone et le propionate de clobétasol pour éclaircir leur peau. Ces principaux agents sont toxiques et leur présence dans les cosmétiques est règlementée, voire interdite, dans plusieurs pays. Dans notre étude, nous avons déterminé les concentrations de ces ingrédients dans plusieurs produits utilisés en Afrique de l’Ouest et au Canada. Nous avons également exploré l’effet de ces produits sur le microbiome cutané. Nos résultats révèlent que 68 à 84% des crèmes et 7.5 à 65% des savons dépassent les normes lorsqu’on considère l’interdiction de mercure, d’hydroquinone et de propionate de clobétasol et les concentrations déclarées sur les étiquettes ne sont pas souvent fiables. Selon la diversité de Shannon, il semble y avoir plus d’équitabilité, et donc moins de dominance dans le groupe des femmes utilisant les crèmes éclaircissantes que dans le groupe des femmes qui ne les utilisent pas. Par ailleurs, nous n’avons pas trouvé de différences significatives au niveau du microbiome cutané du groupe avec crèmes et sans crèmes au niveau du phylum et du genre. Cependant, d’autres méthodes plus approfondies avec plus d’échantillonnage pourraient révéler à des échelles plus fines (espèces, souches, etc.) l’effet de ces produits sur le microbiome cutané.

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If we look back in time at the history of humanity, we can state that our generation is living an era of outstanding efficiency and progress because of globalization and global competition, even if this is resulting in the rapid depletion of energy sources and raw materials. The environmental impact of non-biodegradable plastic wastes is of increasing global concern: nowadays, imagining a world without synthetic plastics seems impossible, though their large-scale production and their extensive use have only spread since the end of the World War II. In recent years, the demand for sustainable materials has increased significantly and, with a view to circular economy, research has also focused on the enhancement and subsequent reuse of waste materials produced by industrial processing, intensive farming and the agricultural sector. Plastic polymers have been the most practical and economical solution for decades due to their low cost, prompt availability and excellent optical, mechanical and barrier properties. Biodegradable polymers could replace them in many applications, thus reducing the problems of traditional plastics disposability and the dependence on petroleum. Natural biopolymers are in fact characterized by a high biocompatibility and biodegradability and have already prompted research in the field of regenerative medicine. During my PhD, my goal was to use natural polymers from sustainable sources as raw materials to produce biomaterials, which are materials designed to interface with biological systems to evaluate, support or replace any tissue, organ, or function of the body. I focused on the use of the most abundant biopolymers in nature to produce biomaterials in the form of films, scaffolds and cements. After a complete characterization, the materials were proposed for suitable applications in different fields, from tissue engineering to cosmetics and food packaging. Some of the obtained results were published on international scientific and peer-reviewed journals.

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Solid state engineered materials have proven to be useful and suitable tools in the quest of new materials. In this thesis different crystalline compounds were synthesized to provide more sustainable products for different applications, as in cosmetics or in agrochemistry, to propose pollutants removal strategy or to obtain materials for electrocatalysis. Therefore, the research projects presented here can be divided into three main topics: (i) sustainable preparation of solid materials of widely used active ingredients aimed at the reduction of their occurrence in the natural environment. The systems studied in this section are cyclodextrins host-guest compounds, obtained via mechanochemical and slurry synthesis. The first chemicals studied are sunscreens inclusion complexes, that proved to have enhanced photostability and desired photoprotection. The same synthetic methods were applied to obtain inclusion complexes of bentazon, a herbicide often found to leach in groundwaters. The resulting products showed to have desired water solubility properties. The same herbicide was also adsorbed on amorphous calcium phosphate nanoparticles, to obtain a biocompatible formulation of this agrochemical. This herbicide could benefit by the adsorption on nanoparticles for what concerns its kinetic release in different media as well as its photostability. (ii) Sustainable synthesis of co-crystals based on polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, for the proposal of a sequestering method with a resulting material with enhanced properties. The co-crystallization via mechanochemical means proved that these pollutants can be sequestered via simple solvent-free synthesis and the obtained materials present better photochemical properties when compared to the starting co-formers. (iii) Crystallization from mild solvents of nanosized materials useful for the application in electrocatalysis. The study of compounds based on nickel and cobalt metal ions resulted in the obtainment of 2D and 1D coordination polymers. Moreover, solid solutions were obtained. These crystals showed layered structures and, according to preliminary results, they can be exfoliated.

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Il primo capitolo introduce l’importante problema dei rifiuti plastici e l’impatto che hanno nell’ambiente, esaminando sia i rifiuti plastici di grandi dimensioni sia le microplastiche. A riguardo, un documento molto significativo è quello della New Plastics Economy: questo raccoglie rilevanti informazioni sull’andamento della produzione e dei rifiuti plastici negli anni e va a delineare dei suggerimenti, delle linee guida che dovrebbero essere adottate per migliorare questa attuale condizione di crisi ambientale dovuta proprio alle materie plastiche. Il secondo capitolo ha il compito di introdurre i trentasei nuovi biocompositi in fase di produzione e sperimentazione e con loro il primo progetto grafico di tesi del catalogo per l’azienda Arianna Fibers. Una prima parte affronta il tema della valorizzazione dello scarto. Ed è qui che i gusci di frutta secca hanno l’opportunità di trasformarsi da rifiuto in risorsa, da materia di scarto in materia prima. Karà bio-compositi sono dei nuovi materiali composti da una matrice di bioplastica biodegradabile e da scarti di gusci di frutta secca. Il mio obiettivo è stato quello di progettare un catalogo di questi materiali che raccoglie campioni materici, informazioni, foto, render e applicazioni. Il terzo capitolo riguarda la progettazione del packaging cosmetico come applicazione dei nuovi materiali biocompositi precedentemente descritti. Si parla dunque di Impronta Ambientale, LCA ed Ecodesign del packaging cosmetico e da queste ed altre valutazioni su casi studio presenti sul mercato nasce Karà bio-cosmetics: una linea di packaging cosmetici sostenibili realizzati con i materiali biocompositi biodegradabili. La tipologia di materiale scelto è quella dei biocompositi a matrice PHA, unica bioplastica biodegradabile in ambiente aperto. Si tratta di una linea di diversi pezzi associabili a vari tipi di cosmetici che l’utente potrà poi personalizzare.