The knock-on from the knock-off : recent shifts within Australian mass market fashion design practice

Australia's mass market fashion labels have traditionally benefitted from their peripheral location to the world's fashion centres. Operating a season behind, Australian mass market designers and buyers were well-placed to watch trends play out overseas before testing them in the Australian marketplace. For this reason, often a designer's role was to source and oversee the manufacture of 'knock-offs', or close copies of northern hemisphere mass market garments. Both Weller and Walsh have commented on this practice.12 The knock-on effect from this continues to be a cautious, derivative fashion sensibility within Australian mass market fashion design, where any new trend or product is first tested and proved overseas months earlier. However, there is evidence that this is changing. The rapid online dissemination of global fashion trends, coupled with the Australian consumer’s willingness to shop online, has meant that the ‘knock-off’ is less viable. For this reason, a number of mass market companies are moving away from the practice of direct sourcing and are developing product in-house under a northern hemisphere model. This shift is also witnessed in the trend for mass market companies to develop collections in partnership with independent Australian designers. This paper explores the current and potential effects of these shifts within Australian mass market design practice, and discusses how they may impact on both consumers and on the wider culture of Australian fashion.

Design, sustainability and Australian mass-market fashion : three case studies

The production of fashion garments has negative environmental and social impacts that can potentially be reduced through decisions made in the design process. This research explores to what extent Australian mass-market fashion designers consider environmental sustainability within product design. The study presents three case studies from different market levels, assembled through interviews with designers, along with an analysis of the Australian mass-market fashion industry. The project provides insights into the workings of the fashion design process within mid and high volume companies, and identifies opportunities and barriers for consideration of sustainability.

Mass spectrometry-based metabolomics towards understanding of gene functions with a diversity of biological contexts

Currently, mass spectrometry-based metabolomics studies extend beyond conventional chemical categorization and metabolic phenotype analysis to understanding gene function in various biological contexts (e.g., mammalian, plant, and microbial). These novel utilities have led to many innovative discoveries in the following areas: disease pathogenesis, therapeutic pathway or target identification, the biochemistry of animal and plant physiological and pathological activities in response to diverse stimuli, and molecular signatures of host-pathogen interactions during microbial infection. In this review, we critically evaluate the representative applications of mass spectrometry-based metabolomics to better understand gene function in diverse biological contexts, with special emphasis on working principles, study protocols, and possible future development of this technique. Collectively, this review raises awareness within the biomedical community of the scientific value and applicability of mass spectrometry-based metabolomics strategies to better understand gene function, thus advancing this application's utility in a broad range of biological fields

Metabolic urinary profiling of alcohol hepatotoxicity and intervention effects of Yin Chen Hao Tang in rats using ultra-performance liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization quadruple time-of-flight mass spectrometry

This paper was designed to study metabonomic characters of the hepatotoxicity induced by alcohol and the intervention effects of Yin Chen Hao Tang (YCHT), a classic traditional Chinese medicine formula for treatment of jaundice and liver disorders in China. Urinary samples from control, alcohol- and YCHT-treated rats were analyzed by ultra-performance liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization quadruple time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UPLC/ESI-QTOF-MS) in positive ionization mode. The total ion chromatograms obtained from the control, alcohol- and YCHT-treated rats were easily distinguishable using a multivariate statistical analysis method such as the principal components analysis (PCA). The greatest difference in metabolic profiling was observed from alcohol-treated rats compared with the control and YCHT-treated rats. The positive ions m/z 664.3126 (9.00 min) was elevated in urine of alcohol-treated rats, whereas, ions m/z 155.3547 (10.96 min) and 708.2932 (9.01 min) were at a lower concentration compared with that in urine of control rats, however, these ions did not indicate a statistical difference between control rats and YCHT-treated rats. The ion m/z 664.3126 was found to correspond to ceramide (d18:1/25:0), providing further support for an involvement of the sphingomyelin signaling pathway in alcohol hepatotoxicity and the intervention effects of YCHT.

Development of a rapid and validated method for investigating the metabolism of scoparone in rat using ultra-performance liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization quadruple time-of-flight mass spectrometry

Scoparone (6,7-dimethoxycoumarin) is known to have a wide range of pharmacological properties. In this study, a rapid and validated ultra-performance liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization quadruple time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UPLC/ESI-QTof-MS) method was developed to investigate the metabolism of scoparone in rat for the first time. The new method reduced the sample handling and analytical time by three- to six-fold, and the detection limit by five- to 1000-fold, compared to published methods. Far more metabolites were detected and identified compared to published data, which were preliminarily identified as scopoletin, isoscopoletin, isofraxidin, and fraxidin, respectively, when subjected to tandem mass spectrometry analyses. It is found that the metabolic trajectory of scoparone in rat focused on phase I metabolism which is obviously different from published results, and revealed a wide range of pharmacological properties of scoparone partly attributed to the bioactivities of its metabolites.

Timing, origin and emplacement dynamics of mass flows offshore of SE Montserrat in the last 110 ka : implications for landslide and tsunami hazards, eruption history, and volcanic island evolution

Mass flows on volcanic islands generated by volcanic lava dome collapse and by larger-volume flank collapse can be highly dangerous locally and may generate tsunamis that threaten a wider area. It is therefore important to understand their frequency, emplacement dynamics, and relationship to volcanic eruption cycles. The best record of mass flow on volcanic islands may be found offshore, where most material is deposited and where intervening hemipelagic sediment aids dating. Here we analyze what is arguably the most comprehensive sediment core data set collected offshore from a volcanic island. The cores are located southeast of Montserrat, on which the Soufriere Hills volcano has been erupting since 1995. The cores provide a record of mass flow events during the last 110 thousand years. Older mass flow deposits differ significantly from those generated by the repeated lava dome collapses observed since 1995. The oldest mass flow deposit originated through collapse of the basaltic South Soufriere Hills at 103-110 ka, some 20-30 ka after eruptions formed this volcanic center. A ∼1.8 km3 blocky debris avalanche deposit that extends from a chute in the island shelf records a particularly deep-seated failure. It likely formed from a collapse of almost equal amounts of volcanic edifice and coeval carbonate shelf, emplacing a mixed bioclastic-andesitic turbidite in a complex series of stages. This study illustrates how volcanic island growth and collapse involved extensive, large-volume submarine mass flows with highly variable composition. Runout turbidites indicate that mass flows are emplaced either in multiple stages or as single events.

Improved ultra-performance liquid chromatography with electrospray ionization quadrupole-time-of-flight high-definition mass spectrometry method for the rapid analysis of the chemical constituents of a typical medical formula: Liuwei Dihuang Wan

Liuwei Dihuang Wan (LWD), a classic Chinese medicinal formulae, has been used to improve or restore declined functions related to aging and geriatric diseases, such as impaired mobility, vision, hearing, cognition and memory. It has attracted increasingly much attention as one of the most popular and valuable herbal medicines. However, the systematic analysis of the chemical constituents of LDW is difficult and thus has not been well established. In this paper, a rapid, sensitive and reliable ultra-performance liquid chromatography with electrospray ionization quadrupole time-of-flight high-definition mass spectrometry (UPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) method with automated MetaboLynx analysis in positive and negative ion mode was established to characterize the chemical constituents of LDW. The analysis was performed on a Waters UPLCTM HSS T3 using a gradient elution system. MS/MS fragmentation behavior was proposed for aiding the structural identification of the components. Under the optimized conditions, a total of 50 peaks were tentatively characterized by comparing the retention time and MS data. It is concluded that a rapid and robust platform based on UPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS has been successfully developed for globally identifying multiple-constituents of traditional Chinese medicine prescriptions. This is the first report on systematic analysis of the chemical constituents of LDW. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Analysis of organic aerosols collected on filters by Aerosol Mass Spectrometry for source identification

Aerosol mass spectrometers (AMS) are powerful tools in the analysis of the chemical composition of airborne particles, particularly organic aerosols which are gaining increasing attention. However, the advantages of AMS in providing on-line data can be outweighed by the difficulties involved in its use in field measurements at multiple sites. In contrast to the on-line measurement by AMS, a method which involves sample collection on filters followed by subsequent analysis by AMS could significantly broaden the scope of AMS application. We report the application of such an approach to field studies at multiple sites. An AMS was deployed at 5 urban schools to determine the sources of the organic aerosols at the schools directly. PM1 aerosols were also collected on filters at these and 20 other urban schools. The filters were extracted with water and the extract run through a nebulizer to generate the aerosols, which were analysed by an AMS. The mass spectra from the samples collected on filters at the 5 schools were found to have excellent correlations with those obtained directly by AMS, with r2 ranging from 0.89 to 0.98. Filter recoveries varied between the schools from 40 -115%, possibly indicating that this method provides qualitative rather than quantitative information. The stability of the organic aerosols on Teflon filters was demonstrated by analysing samples stored for up to two years. Application of the procedure to the remaining 20 schools showed that secondary organic aerosols were the main source of aerosols at the majority of the schools. Overall, this procedure provides accurate representation of the mass spectra of ambient organic aerosols and could facilitate rapid data acquisition at multiple sites where AMS could not be deployed for logistical reasons.

Malnutrition in Parkinson's disease and an individualised approach to its management

It has been reported that poor nutritional status, in the form of weight loss and resulting body mass index (BMI) changes, is an issue in people with Parkinson's disease (PWP). The symptoms resulting from Parkinson's disease (PD) and the side effects of PD medication have been implicated in the aetiology of nutritional decline. However, the evidence on which these claims are based is, on one hand, contradictory, and on the other, restricted primarily to otherwise healthy PWP. Despite the claims that PWP suffer from poor nutritional status, evidence is lacking to inform nutrition-related care for the management of malnutrition in PWP. The aims of this thesis were to better quantify the extent of poor nutritional status in PWP, determine the important factors differentiating the well-nourished from the malnourished and evaluate the effectiveness of an individualised nutrition intervention on nutritional status. Phase DBS: Nutritional status in people with Parkinson's disease scheduled for deep-brain stimulation surgery The pre-operative rate of malnutrition in a convenience sample of people with Parkinson's disease (PWP) scheduled for deep-brain stimulation (DBS) surgery was determined. Poorly controlled PD symptoms may result in a higher risk of malnutrition in this sub-group of PWP. Fifteen patients (11 male, median age 68.0 (42.0 – 78.0) years, median PD duration 6.75 (0.5 – 24.0) years) participated and data were collected during hospital admission for the DBS surgery. The scored PG-SGA was used to assess nutritional status, anthropometric measures (weight, height, mid-arm circumference, waist circumference, body mass index (BMI)) were taken, and body composition was measured using bioelectrical impedance spectroscopy (BIS). Six (40%) of the participants were malnourished (SGA-B) while 53% reported significant weight loss following diagnosis. BMI was significantly different between SGA-A and SGA-B (25.6 vs 23.0kg/m 2, p<.05). There were no differences in any other variables, including PG-SGA score and the presence of non-motor symptoms. The conclusion was that malnutrition in this group is higher than that in other studies reporting malnutrition in PWP, and it is under-recognised. As poorer surgical outcomes are associated with poorer pre-operative nutritional status in other surgeries, it might be beneficial to identify patients at nutritional risk prior to surgery so that appropriate nutrition interventions can be implemented. Phase I: Nutritional status in community-dwelling adults with Parkinson's disease The rate of malnutrition in community-dwelling adults (>18 years) with Parkinson's disease was determined. One hundred twenty-five PWP (74 male, median age 70.0 (35.0 – 92.0) years, median PD duration 6.0 (0.0 – 31.0) years) participated. The scored PG-SGA was used to assess nutritional status, anthropometric measures (weight, height, mid-arm circumference (MAC), calf circumference, waist circumference, body mass index (BMI)) were taken. Nineteen (15%) of the participants were malnourished (SGA-B). All anthropometric indices were significantly different between SGA-A and SGA-B (BMI 25.9 vs 20.0kg/m2; MAC 29.1 – 25.5cm; waist circumference 95.5 vs 82.5cm; calf circumference 36.5 vs 32.5cm; all p<.05). The PG-SGA score was also significantly lower in the malnourished (2 vs 8, p<.05). The nutrition impact symptoms which differentiated between well-nourished and malnourished were no appetite, constipation, diarrhoea, problems swallowing and feel full quickly. This study concluded that malnutrition in community-dwelling PWP is higher than that documented in community-dwelling elderly (2 – 11%), yet is likely to be under-recognised. Nutrition impact symptoms play a role in reduced intake. Appropriate screening and referral processes should be established for early detection of those at risk. Phase I: Nutrition assessment tools in people with Parkinson's disease There are a number of validated and reliable nutrition screening and assessment tools available for use. None of these tools have been evaluated in PWP. In the sample described above, the use of the World Health Organisation (WHO) cut-off (≤18.5kg/m2), age-specific BMI cut-offs (≤18.5kg/m2 for under 65 years, ≤23.5kg/m2 for 65 years and older) and the revised Mini-Nutritional Assessment short form (MNA-SF) were evaluated as nutrition screening tools. The PG-SGA (including the SGA classification) and the MNA full form were evaluated as nutrition assessment tools using the SGA classification as the gold standard. For screening, the MNA-SF performed the best with sensitivity (Sn) of 94.7% and specificity (Sp) of 78.3%. For assessment, the PG-SGA with a cut-off score of 4 (Sn 100%, Sp 69.8%) performed better than the MNA (Sn 84.2%, Sp 87.7%). As the MNA has been recommended more for use as a nutrition screening tool, the MNA-SF might be more appropriate and take less time to complete. The PG-SGA might be useful to inform and monitor nutrition interventions. Phase I: Predictors of poor nutritional status in people with Parkinson's disease A number of assessments were conducted as part of the Phase I research, including those for the severity of PD motor symptoms, cognitive function, depression, anxiety, non-motor symptoms, constipation, freezing of gait and the ability to carry out activities of daily living. A higher score in all of these assessments indicates greater impairment. In addition, information about medical conditions, medications, age, age at PD diagnosis and living situation was collected. These were compared between those classified as SGA-A and as SGA-B. Regression analysis was used to identify which factors were predictive of malnutrition (SGA-B). Differences between the groups included disease severity (4% more severe SGA-A vs 21% SGA-B, p<.05), activities of daily living score (13 SGA-A vs 18 SGA-B, p<.05), depressive symptom score (8 SGA-A vs 14 SGA-B, p<.05) and gastrointestinal symptoms (4 SGA-A vs 6 SGA-B, p<.05). Significant predictors of malnutrition according to SGA were age at diagnosis (OR 1.09, 95% CI 1.01 – 1.18), amount of dopaminergic medication per kg body weight (mg/kg) (OR 1.17, 95% CI 1.04 – 1.31), more severe motor symptoms (OR 1.10, 95% CI 1.02 – 1.19), less anxiety (OR 0.90, 95% CI 0.82 – 0.98) and more depressive symptoms (OR 1.23, 95% CI 1.07 – 1.41). Significant predictors of a higher PG-SGA score included living alone (β=0.14, 95% CI 0.01 – 0.26), more depressive symptoms (β=0.02, 95% CI 0.01 – 0.02) and more severe motor symptoms (OR 0.01, 95% CI 0.01 – 0.02). More severe disease is associated with malnutrition, and this may be compounded by lack of social support. Phase II: Nutrition intervention Nineteen of the people identified in Phase I as requiring nutrition support were included in Phase II, in which a nutrition intervention was conducted. Nine participants were in the standard care group (SC), which received an information sheet only, and the other 10 participants were in the intervention group (INT), which received individualised nutrition information and weekly follow-up. INT gained 2.2% of starting body weight over the 12 week intervention period resulting in significant increases in weight, BMI, mid-arm circumference and waist circumference. The SC group gained 1% of starting weight over the 12 weeks which did not result in any significant changes in anthropometric indices. Energy and protein intake (18.3kJ/kg vs 3.8kJ/kg and 0.3g/kg vs 0.15g/kg) increased in both groups. The increase in protein intake was only significant in the SC group. The changes in intake, when compared between the groups, were no different. There were no significant changes in any motor or non-motor symptoms or in "off" times or dyskinesias in either group. Aspects of quality of life improved over the 12 weeks as well, especially emotional well-being. This thesis makes a significant contribution to the evidence base for the presence of malnutrition in Parkinson's disease as well as for the identification of those who would potentially benefit from nutrition screening and assessment. The nutrition intervention demonstrated that a traditional high protein, high energy approach to the management of malnutrition resulted in improved nutritional status and anthropometric indices with no effect on the presence of Parkinson's disease symptoms and a positive effect on quality of life.

Heat and mass transfer modeling of the osmo-convective drying of yacon roots (Smallanthus sonchifolius)

Osmotic treatments are often applied prior to convective drying of foods to impart sensory appeal aspects. During this process a multicomponent mass flow, composed mainly of water and osmotic agent, takes place. In this work, a heat and mass transfer model for the osmo-convective drying of yacon was developed and solved by the Finite Element Method using COMSOL Multiphysics®, considering a 2-D axisymmetric geometry and moisture dependent thermophysical properties. Yacon slices were osmotically dehydrated for 2 hours in a solution of sucralose and then dried in a tray dryer for 3 hours. The model was validated by experimental data of temperature, moisture content and sucralose uptake (R²> 0.90).

Development and validation of anthropometric prediction equations for estimation of lean body mass and appendicular lean soft tissue in Indian men and women

Lean body mass (LBM) and muscle mass remains difficult to quantify in large epidemiological studies due to non-availability of inexpensive methods. We therefore developed anthropometric prediction equations to estimate the LBM and appendicular lean soft tissue (ALST) using dual energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA) as a reference method. Healthy volunteers (n= 2220; 36% females; age 18-79 y) representing a wide range of body mass index (14-44 kg/m2) participated in this study. Their LBM including ALST was assessed by DXA along with anthropometric measurements. The sample was divided into prediction (60%) and validation (40%) sets. In the prediction set, a number of prediction models were constructed using DXA measured LBM and ALST estimates as dependent variables and a combination of anthropometric indices as independent variables. These equations were cross-validated in the validation set. Simple equations using age, height and weight explained > 90% variation in the LBM and ALST in both men and women. Additional variables (hip and limb circumferences and sum of SFTs) increased the explained variation by 5-8% in the fully adjusted models predicting LBM and ALST. More complex equations using all the above anthropometric variables could predict the DXA measured LBM and ALST accurately as indicated by low standard error of the estimate (LBM: 1.47 kg and 1.63 kg for men and women, respectively) as well as good agreement by Bland Altman analyses. These equations could be a valuable tool in large epidemiological studies assessing these body compartments in Indians and other population groups with similar body composition.

Associations of body mass index and waist circumference with: energy intake and percentage energy from macronutrients, in a cohort of Australian children

Background It is evident from previous research that the role of dietary composition in relation to the development of childhood obesity remains inconclusive. Several studies investigating the relationship between body mass index (BMI), waist circumference (WC) and/or skin fold measurements with energy intake have suggested that the macronutrient composition of the diet (protein, carbohydrate, fat) may play an important contributing role to obesity in childhood as it does in adults. This study investigated the possible relationship between BMI and WC with energy intake and percentage energy intake from macronutrients in Australian children and adolescents. Methods Height, weight and WC measurements, along with 24 h food and drink records (FDR) intake data were collected from 2460 boys and girls aged 5-17 years living in the state of Queensland, Australia. Results Statistically significant, yet weak correlations between BMI z-score and WC with total energy intake were observed in grades 1, 5 and 10, with only 55% of subjects having a physiologically plausible 24 hr FDR. Using Pearson correlations to examine the relationship between BMI and WC with energy intake and percentage macronutrient intake, no significant correlations were observed between BMI z-score or WC and percentage energy intake from protein, carbohydrate or fat. One way ANOVAs showed that although those with a higher BMI z-score or WC consumed significantly more energy than their lean counterparts. Conclusion No evidence of an association between percentage macronutrient intake and BMI or WC was found. Evidently, more robust longitudinal studies are needed to elucidate the relationship linking obesity and dietary intake.

Differentiation of isomeric N-glycan structures by normal-phase liquid chromatography-MALDI-TOF/TOF tandem mass spectrometry

The detailed characterization of protein N-glycosylation is very demanding given the many different glycoforms and structural isomers that can exist on glycoproteins. Here we report a fast and sensitive method for the extensive structure elucidation of reducing-end labeled N-glycan mixtures using a combination of capillary normal-phase HPLC coupled off-line to matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization time-of-flight mass spectrometry (MALDI-TOF-MS) and TOF/TOF-MS/MS. Using this method, isobaric N-glycans released from honey bee phospholipase A2 and Arabidopsis thaliana glycoproteins were separated by normal-phase chromatography and subsequently identified by key fragment ions in the MALDI-TOF/TOF tandem mass spectra. In addition, linkage and branching information were provided by abundant cross-ring and "elimination" fragment ions in the MALDI-CID spectra that gave extensive structural information. Furthermore, the fragmentation characteristics of N-glycans reductively aminated with 2-aminobenzoic acid and 2-aminobenzamide were compared. The identification of N-glycans containing 3-linked core fucose was facilitated by distinctive ions present only in the MALDI-CID spectra of 2-aminobenzoic acid-labeled oligosaccharides. To our knowledge, this is the first MS/MS-based technique that allows confident identification of N-glycans containing 3-linked core fucose, which is a major allergenic determinant on insect and plant glycoproteins.

Genome segment 5 of rice ragged stunt virus encodes a virion protein

The complete nucleotide sequence of the genome segment 5 (S5) of a Thai isolate of rice ragged stunt virus (RRSV) was determined. The 2682 nucleotide sequence contains a single long open reading frame capable of encoding a polypeptide with a molecular mass of ~91 kDa. Polypeptides encoded by various truncated cDNAs of S5 were expressed using the pGEX fusion protein vector and the highest level of fusion protein was obtained from a construct encoding a hydrophilic region of S5 protein. Antibodies raised against this fusion protein recognized a minor polypeptide, with a molecular mass of ~ 91 kDa, that was present in purified preparations of RRSV particles, infected insect vectors and infected rice plants. This indicates that RRSV S5 encodes a minor structural protein. Comparing the RRSV S5 sequence with sequences of other reo-viruses did not reveal any significant sequence similarities.

Predator Crown-of-Thorns Starfish (Acanthaster planci) Outbreak, Mass Mortality of Corals, and Cascading Effects on Reef Fish and Benthic Communities

Outbreaks of the coral-killing seastar Acanthaster planci are intense disturbances that can decimate coral reefs. These events consist of the emergence of large swarms of the predatory seastar that feed on reef-building corals, often leading to widespread devastation of coral populations. While cyclic occurrences of such outbreaks are reported from many tropical reefs throughout the Indo-Pacific, their causes are hotly debated, and the spatio-temporal dynamics of the outbreaks and impacts to reef communities remain unclear. Based on observations of a recent event around the island of Moorea, French Polynesia, we show that Acanthaster outbreaks are methodic, slow-paced, and diffusive biological disturbances. Acanthaster outbreaks on insular reef systems like Moorea's appear to originate from restricted areas confined to the ocean-exposed base of reefs. Elevated Acanthaster densities then progressively spread to adjacent and shallower locations by migrations of seastars in aggregative waves that eventually affect the entire reef system. The directional migration across reefs appears to be a search for prey as reef portions affected by dense seastar aggregations are rapidly depleted of living corals and subsequently left behind. Coral decline on impacted reefs occurs by the sequential consumption of species in the order of Acanthaster feeding preferences. Acanthaster outbreaks thus result in predictable alteration of the coral community structure. The outbreak we report here is among the most intense and devastating ever reported. Using a hierarchical, multi-scale approach, we also show how sessile benthic communities and resident coral-feeding fish assemblages were subsequently affected by the decline of corals. By elucidating the processes involved in an Acanthaster outbreak, our study contributes to comprehending this widespread disturbance and should thus benefit targeted management actions for coral reef ecosystems.