Re-framing fashion : from original and copy to adaptation

Partington notes that clothing produced by individual consumers through adaptation of patterns is contextualised as a watered down version of original couture. In its most reductive form, this notion characterises fashion as commercial and exploitative. Descriptors such as appropriation, imitation, copy and so forth have restricted the opportunity to understand fashion as a major global cultural form and institution. Therefore exploring and understanding the concept of adaptation will shift the attention from a superficial assessment of original versus imitation or copy to adaptation as a practice that provides a better framework for the understanding of designers’ and couturiers’ innovative practices and creativity, describing also the active engagement of consumers with fashion at the micro level. Adaptation can also provide a way to understand different historical shifts in the fashion system, from individual creative agency with home dressmaking and re-making to the explosion of the mass market and the consequent abandonment of such practices. Home dressmaking has been replaced by fashion remix of mass produced garments, a practice that thrives in our environment of globalised fast fashion. Thus this chapter suggests the need for a contextual requalification of concepts such as original, copy, imitation and copyright, and argues that these categories have been played against each other, but they are in fact interdependent. Today, big labels and conglomerates try to control knowledge and innovation through copyright, but, fashion escapes copyright because, in fashion, creativity is contextual. The institutionalisation of couture from 1868 served as a way to control knowledge about production processes in fashion; on the other hand, adaptation practices, often subversive, have been fundamental to the democratisation of fashion.

Critical Factors for Sustainable Post Natural Disaster Reconstruction : Chinese Data

While scientists continue to explore the level of climate change impact to new weather patterns and our environment in general, there have been some devastating natural disasters worldwide in the last two decades. Indeed natural disasters are becoming a major concern in our society. Yet in many previous examples, our reconstruction efforts only focused on providing short-term necessities. How to develop resilience in the long run is now a highlight for research and industry practice. This paper introduces a research project aimed at exploring the relationship between resilience building and sustainability in order to identify key factors during reconstruction efforts. From extensive literature study, the authors considered the inherent linkage between the two issues as evidenced from past research. They found that sustainability considerations can improve the level of resilience but are not currently given due attention. Reconstruction efforts need to focus on resilience factors but as part of urban development, they must also respond to the sustainability challenge. Sustainability issues in reconstruction projects need to be amplified, identified, processed, and managed properly. On-going research through empirical study aims to establish critical factors (CFs) for stakeholders in disaster prone areas to plan for and develop new building infrastructure through holistic considerations and balanced approaches to sustainability. A questionnaire survey examined a range of potential factors and the subsequent data analysis revealed six critical factors for sustainable Post Natural Disaster Reconstruction that include: considerable building materials and construction methods, good governance, multilateral coordination, appropriate land-use planning and policies, consideration of different social needs, and balanced combination of long-term and short-term needs. Findings from this study should have an influence on policy development towards Post Natural Disaster Reconstruction and help with the achievement of sustainable objectives.

Linking Karumba : Creating Sustainable Connections

Linking Karumba: Creating Sustainable Connections This exhibition showcases the work of 3rd -4th year undergraduate landscape architecture, architecture, Industrial Design, Environmental Engineering, Civil Engineering students in response to issues of sustainability in the Gulf of Carpentaria town of Karumba. It presented the work to the Karumba and Carpentaria Shire community. 16 students and four staff set off on a 2488km journey to undertake the first half of the Carpentaria Project: a fortnight-long strategic planning project entitled Linking Karumba to encourage social, economic, environmental and cultural linkages across the town. Karumba, along with the nearby town of Normanton, is one of Queensland’s most remote settlements. Its economy is based on fishing, tourism, and mining. It has two centres, 2.5km apart by river, or 9km by road. This physical disconnect was identified by Carpentaria Shire Council (CSC) and the Karumba Progress Association (KPA) as a source of socio-cultural disconnection, which formed the basis of our project brief. Student designs were highly responsive to the character of Karumba’s culture and environment, indicating remarkable levels of immersion, and attracting $830 000 in Qld. state government funding for implementation. The Exhibition Four groups of four students produced four strategic planning and design options toward this future: Make the Switch: Alice Anonuevo, Michael Marriott, Carla Priestley & Grant Harvey Realigning the Systems: Claudia Bergs, Rebecca Stephens, Anna Coulson & Lois Kerrigan Diversification of Experience: Rebecca North, Kyle Bush, Debra Sullivan & Jenna Green The River is the Main Street: Ashley Nicholson, Monica Kuiken, Dean Bowen & Bill Schild

Community engagement : creating sustainable futures by design

QUT Alumni and Development Office, Engagement and Partnerships Seminar 'Managing Partnerships' As part of a week of engagement/partnership activities, this seminar outlined the engagement practices of 'Sustainable Futures by Design' and the BAC partnership. Presenters of two QUT Engagement Innovation projects discussed how emphasis on how the project benefited their work and the university generally, especially through the partnership, including through enhanced teaching and research. They outlined the principles and practices of good partnership management. Presenters: Shannon Satherley & Les Dawes: Community Engagement: Creating Sustainable Futures by Design Ashantha Goonetilleke & Bernard Murchison: QUT - BAC Partnership Satherley & Dawes: 'Developing and Maintaining the Partnerships: giving and receiving; expecting the unexpected; administration; enjoying the rewards.'C

A sustainable tourism development in Alacati, Turkey : (Re)invention of public space with clean energy

Although there is an increasing recognition of the impacts of climate change on communities, residents often resist changing their lifestyle to reduce the effects of the problem. By using a landscape architectural design medium, this paper argues that public space, when designed as an ecological system, has the capacity to create social and environmental change and to increase the quality of the human environment. At the same time, this ecological system can engage residents, enrich the local economy, and increase the social network. Through methods of design, research and case study analysis, an alternative master plan is proposed for a sustainable tourism development in Alacati, Turkey. Our master plan uses local geographical, economic and social information within a sustainable landscape architectural design scheme that addresses the key issues of ecology, employment, public space and community cohesion. A preliminary community empowerment model (CEM) is proposed to manage the designs. The designs address: the coexistence of local agricultural and sustainable energy generation; state of the art water management; and the functional and sustainable social and economic interrelationship of inhabitants, NGOs, and local government.

Sustainable infrastructure procurement in Australia : standard vs. project practices

The Australian Government and most Australian road authorities have set ambitious greenhouse gas emission (GHGe) reduction targets for the near future, many of which have translated into action plans. However, previous research has shown that the various Australian state road authorities are at different stages of implementing ‘green’ initiatives in construction planning and development, with considerable gaps in their monitoring, tendering, and contracting. This study illustrates the differences between procurement standards and project specific practices that aim to reduce GHGe from road construction projects in three of the largest Australian road construction clients, with a focus on the tools used, contract type and incentives for better performance.

Towards a right to sustainable energy

Energy represents the cornerstone of modern life. However, current patterns of energy production are unsustainable. This is true for both the developed and developing worlds. In this context, this paper considers how, from a conceptual perspective, the law can contribute to more sustainable patterns of energy production can be addressed. The approach that this paper adopts is to consider two of the most important concepts that are relevant to the governance of modern environmental and societal challenges: human dignity and sustainable development. It is within this context that this paper contends that the convergence of these concepts provides the platform for a novel approach to encourage the sustainable production of energy by way of a ‘right to sustainable energy’. With this in mind, this paper considers the forum in which a right to sustainable energy may be developed and outlines the content of the proposed right.

Linkages of development and environment : in search of an integrated approach through sustainable development

Least developed countries (LDCs) are the primary victims of environmental changes, including present and future impacts of climate change. Environmental degradation poses a serious threat to the conservation and sustainable use of natural resources, thus hindering development in LDCs. Simultaneously, poverty is itself both a major cause and effect of global environmental problems. Against this backdrop, this essay argues that without recognition and protection of a collective right to development, genuine environmental protection will remain unachievable. Further, this essay submits that, particularly in the context of LDCs, the right to environment and the right to development are inseparable. Finally, this essay argues that the relationship between the right to environment and the right to development must fall within the paradigm of sustainable development if the promotion and protection of those rights are to be justified.

Integrated coastal zone management and sustainable development of coastal area : a short overview of international legal framework

This chapter contains sections titled: Introduction ICZM and sustainable development of coastal zone International legal framework for ICZM Implementation of international legal obligations in domestic arena Concluding remarks References

Paris 1947 : The woman of fashion

Paris 1947 is the site of one of twentieth century fashion’s fictive highpoints. The New Look combined drama and poetics through an abiding rhetoric of elegance. In doing so it employed traditional modes of femininity, casting the woman of fashion in the guise of an ambiguous ‘new’ figure: half fairytale princess, half evil witch. This fashionable ideal was widely disseminated through key photographic representations, Willy Maywald’s 1947 image of the Bar Suit being a case in point. It was precisely such mythic formulations of ‘woman’ which Simone de Beauvoir was to take to task just two years later with the publication of The Second Sex. Driven by frustration with the status quo of real women, de Beauvoir recognised the role of fictive representations, both textual and visual in defining women. This paper reads key sections of The Second Sex through a comparative analysis of two iconic images of French women from 1947; Cartier-Bresson’s classic portrait of de Beauvoir and Willy Mayhold’s spectacular evocation of Christian Dior’s New Look. Cued by a compelling range of similarities between these images this paper explores links between fashion, feminism and fiction in mid-century French culture.

The knock-on from the knock-off : recent shifts within Australian mass market fashion design practice

Australia's mass market fashion labels have traditionally benefitted from their peripheral location to the world's fashion centres. Operating a season behind, Australian mass market designers and buyers were well-placed to watch trends play out overseas before testing them in the Australian marketplace. For this reason, often a designer's role was to source and oversee the manufacture of 'knock-offs', or close copies of northern hemisphere mass market garments. Both Weller and Walsh have commented on this practice.12 The knock-on effect from this continues to be a cautious, derivative fashion sensibility within Australian mass market fashion design, where any new trend or product is first tested and proved overseas months earlier. However, there is evidence that this is changing. The rapid online dissemination of global fashion trends, coupled with the Australian consumer’s willingness to shop online, has meant that the ‘knock-off’ is less viable. For this reason, a number of mass market companies are moving away from the practice of direct sourcing and are developing product in-house under a northern hemisphere model. This shift is also witnessed in the trend for mass market companies to develop collections in partnership with independent Australian designers. This paper explores the current and potential effects of these shifts within Australian mass market design practice, and discusses how they may impact on both consumers and on the wider culture of Australian fashion.

Design innovation and the 21st century fashion blur

This paper presents the fashion course at QUT, Creative Industries

Sustainable knowledge community precincts : lessons from global best practices

In the era of global knowledge economy, urban regions—seeking to increase their competitive edge, become destinations for talent and investment, and provide prosperity and quality of life to their inhabitants—have little chance achieving their development goals without forming effective knowledge-based urban development (KBUD) strategies. KBUD paradigm suggests that the economic future of cities increasingly depends on the capacity to attract, generate, retain and foster creativity, knowledge and innovation—and make space and place for knowledge generation and knowledge communities. Thus, the paper aims to shed light on the planning and development processes of the KBUD phenomenon with respect to the construction of sustainable knowledge community precincts (KCPs) aimed at making space for knowledge generation and place for knowledge communities—and provide useful lessons for the developing country cities seeking such sustainable and KBUD.

The use of artificial neural networks for identifying sustainable biodiesel feedstocks

Over the past few decades, biodiesel produced from oilseed crops and animal fat is receiving much attention as a renewable and sustainable alternative for automobile engine fuels, and particularly petroleum diesel. However, current biodiesel production is heavily dependent on edible oil feedstocks which are unlikely to be sustainable in the longer term due to the rising food prices and the concerns about automobile engine durability. Therefore, there is an urgent need for researchers to identify and develop sustainable biodiesel feedstocks which overcome the disadvantages of current ones. On the other hand, artificial neural network (ANN) modeling has been successfully used in recent years to gain new knowledge in various disciplines. The main goal of this article is to review recent literatures and assess the state of the art on the use of ANN as a modeling tool for future generation biodiesel feedstocks. Biodiesel feedstocks, production processes, chemical compositions, standards, physio-chemical properties and in-use performance are discussed. Limitations of current biodiesel feedstocks over future generation biodiesel feedstock have been identified. The application of ANN in modeling key biodiesel quality parameters and combustion performance in automobile engines is also discussed. This review has determined that ANN modeling has a high potential to contribute to the development of renewable energy systems by accelerating biodiesel research.

Sustainable and affordable housing : a myth or reality

The Australian government has released a draft National Building Framework that will likely tighten the building standard for new houses to meet higher sustainability requirements. There are uncertainties about the impact this could have on the cost of housing and the supply of affordable housing. This paper aims to provide evidence-based conclusions on the possibility of delivering sustainable and affordable housing for low income people. The case studies are gathered from Brisbane and Gold Coast. Case studies are analysed by unpacking the features that were included to meet sustainability and affordability goals for housing. This paper outlines the key factors for their success and also challenges for replication of the projects. The study shows that the key success drivers for delivering sustainable and affordable housing are providing planning incentives, subsidies for increased energy efficiency, supportive regulatory frameworks and appropriate allocation of infrastructure charges. It shows that government can prioritise their resources to support affordable and sustainable housing for low income people.