Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

Soil amendment and slow release fertilizer preparation from castor meal.

2008

Green nanocomposites as carriers for slow-release of tebuconazole.

2016

Disorders of arousal: a physiopathological window to explore the mechanisms regulating sleep arousal

Disorders of Arousal (DoA) belong to NREM parasomnias and are characterized by motor and emotional episodes arising from incomplete awakenings from NREM sleep. DoA episodes embody at the same time the double nature of the arousal process, that is preserving sleep as well as respond to sleep perturbations, thus being an ideal model to study sleep arousal. In the first part of this work, we performed a spectral whole scalp EEG analysis exploring the neurophysiologic correlates of the pre-motor onset of the episodes in a large sample of patients with DoA, disclosing the co-existence of both slow and fast EEG frequencies over overlapping areas before DoA episodes, suggesting an alteration of local sleep mechanisms. Episodes of different complexity were preceded by a similar EEG activation, implying that they possibly share a similar pathophysiology. In the second part of this work, we performed a spectral whole scalp EEG analysis comparing the pre-motor onset of the episodes and normal arousals from healthy sleepers, disclosing the persistence of slow frequencies as well as sigma band (expression of sleep spindles) in DoA episodes. Overall, these results might subtend a higher tendence to preserve sleep and a more defective mechanism toward developing a complete arousal in patients with DoA. In the last part of our work, we evaluated 15 patients with DoA with 15 controls in a functional MRI study during wakefulness in addition to a proton magnetic resonance spectroscopy (1H-MRS) focused on cingulate cortex. We disclosed subtle alterations on posterior cingulate cortex as well as an increased connectivity in sensory-motor network, possibly representing a trait-functional feature responsible for the dysfunctional arousal process in DoA patients

The Applicability Of Ordered Mesoporous Sba-15 And Its Hydrophobic Glutaraldehyde-bridge Derivative To Improve Ibuprofen-loading In Releasing System.

The mesoporous SBA-15 silica with uniform hexagonal pore, narrow pore size distribution and tuneable pore diameter was organofunctionalized with glutaraldehyde-bridged silylating agent. The precursor and its derivative silicas were ibuprofen-loaded for controlled delivery in simulated biological fluids. The synthesized silicas were characterized by elemental analysis, infrared spectroscopy, (13)C and (29)Si solid state NMR spectroscopy, nitrogen adsorption, X-ray diffractometry, thermogravimetry and scanning electron microscopy. Surface functionalization with amine containing bridged hydrophobic structure resulted in significantly decreased surface area from 802.4 to 63.0 m(2) g(-1) and pore diameter 8.0-6.0 nm, which ultimately increased the drug-loading capacity from 18.0% up to 28.3% and a very slow release rate of ibuprofen over the period of 72.5h. The in vitro drug release demonstrated that SBA-15 presented the fastest release from 25% to 27% and SBA-15GA gave near 10% of drug release in all fluids during 72.5 h. The Korsmeyer-Peppas model better fits the release data with the Fickian diffusion mechanism and zero order kinetics for synthesized mesoporous silicas. Both pore sizes and hydrophobicity influenced the rate of the release process, indicating that the chemically modified silica can be suggested to design formulation of slow and constant release over a defined period, to avoid repeated administration.

Vascular Pattern In Enchondroma And Chondrosarcoma: Clinical And Immunohistologic Study.

Although cartilaginous tumors have low microvascular density, vessels are important for the provision of nutrition so that the tumor can grow and generate metastasis. The aim of this study was to assess the value of the vascular pattern classification as a prognostic tool in chondrosarcomas (CSs) and its relation with vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) expression. This was a retrospective study of 21 enchondromas and 57 conventional CSs. Clinical data and outcome were retrieved from medical files. CSs histologic grades (on a scale of 1 to 3) were determined according to the World Health Organization classification. The vascular pattern (on a scale of A to C) was assessed through CD34, according to Kalinski. CD105 and VEGF were also evaluated. Poor outcome was significantly associated with vascular pattern groups B and C. Higher vascular pattern were 6.5 times more frequent in moderate-grade and high-grade CSs than in grade 1 CS. On multivariate analysis, a clear correlation was found between VEGF overexpression and B/C vascular patterns. Only 18 (benign and malignant) tumors stained for CD105. The results point to the use of the vascular pattern classification as a prognostic tool in CSs and to differentiate low-grade from moderate-grade/high-grade CSs. Vascular pattern might be also used to complement histologic grade, VEGF immunostaining, and microvascular density, for indicating a patient's prognosis. Low-grade CSs develop under low neoangiogenesis, which conforms to the slow growth rate of these tumors.

Nat2, Xrcc1 And Hogg1 Polymorphisms, Cigarette Smoking, Alcohol Consumption And Risk Of Upper Aerodigestive Tract Cancer.

To evaluate associations between polymorphisms of the N-acetyltransferase 2 (NAT2), human 8-oxoguanine glycosylase 1 (hOGG1) and X-ray repair cross-complementing protein 1 (XRCC1) genes and risk of upper aerodigestive tract (UADT) cancer. A case-control study involving 117 cases and 224 controls was undertaken. The NAT2 gene polymorphisms were genotyped by automated sequencing and XRCC1 Arg399Gln and hOGG1 Ser326Cys polymorphisms were determined by Polymerase Chain Reaction followed by Restriction Fragment Length Polymorphism (PCR-RFLP) methods. Slow metabolization phenotype was significantly associated as a risk factor for the development of UADT cancer (p=0.038). Furthermore, haplotype of slow metabolization was also associated with UADT cancer (p=0.014). The hOGG1 Ser326Cys polymorphism (CG or GG vs. CC genotypes) was shown as a protective factor against UADT cancer in moderate smokers (p=0.031). The XRCC1 Arg399Gln polymorphism (GA or AA vs. GG genotypes), in turn, was a protective factor against UADT cancer only among never-drinkers (p=0.048). Interactions involving NAT2, XRCC1 Arg399Gln and hOGG1 Ser326Cys polymorphisms may modulate the risk of UADT cancer in this population.

[gait Speed, Grip Strength And Self-rated Health Among The Elderly: Data From The Fibra Campinas Network, São Paulo, Brazil].

The article seeks to investigate patterns of performance and relationships between grip strength, gait speed and self-rated health, and investigate the relationships between them, considering the variables of gender, age and family income. This was conducted in a probabilistic sample of community-dwelling elderly aged 65 and over, members of a population study on frailty. A total of 689 elderly people without cognitive deficit suggestive of dementia underwent tests of gait speed and grip strength. Comparisons between groups were based on low, medium and high speed and strength. Self-related health was assessed using a 5-point scale. The males and the younger elderly individuals scored significantly higher on grip strength and gait speed than the female and oldest did; the richest scored higher than the poorest on grip strength and gait speed; females and men aged over 80 had weaker grip strength and lower gait speed; slow gait speed and low income arose as risk factors for a worse health evaluation. Lower muscular strength affects the self-rated assessment of health because it results in a reduction in functional capacity, especially in the presence of poverty and a lack of compensatory factors.

Development And Characterization Of A Cationic Lipid Nanocarrier As Non-viral Vector For Gene Therapy.

The aim of the present work was to produce a cationic solid lipid nanoparticle (SLN) as non-viral vector for protein delivery. Cationic SLN were produced by double emulsion method, composed of softisan(®) 100, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTAB), Tween(®) 80, Span(®) 80, glycerol and lipoid(®) S75 loading insulin as model protein. The formulation was characterized in terms of mean hydrodynamic diameter (z-ave), polydispersity index (PI), zeta potential (ZP), stability during storage time, stability after lyophilization, effect of toxicity and transfection ability in HeLa cells, in vitro release profile and morphology. SLN were stable for 30days and showed minimal changes in their physicochemical properties after lyophilization. The particles exhibited a relatively slow release, spherical morphology and were able to transfect HeLa cells, but toxicity remained an obstacle. Results suggest that SLN are nevertheless promising for delivery of proteins or nucleic acids for gene therapy.

Vascular Response Of Ruthenium Tetraamines In Aortic Ring From Normotensive Rats.

Background: Ruthenium (Ru) tetraamines are being increasingly used as nitric oxide (NO) carriers. In this context, pharmacological studies have become highly relevant to better understand the mechanism of action involved. Objective: To evaluate the vascular response of the tetraamines trans-[RuII(NH3)4(Py)(NO)]3+, trans-[RuII(Cl)(NO) (cyclan)](PF6)2, and trans-[RuII(NH3)4(4-acPy)(NO)]3+. Methods: Aortic rings were contracted with noradrenaline (10-6 M). After voltage stabilization, a single concentration (10-6 M) of the compounds was added to the assay medium. The responses were recorded during 120 min. Vascular integrity was assessed functionally using acetylcholine at 10-6 M and sodium nitroprusside at 10-6 M as well as by histological examination. Results: Histological analysis confirmed the presence or absence of endothelial cells in those tissues. All tetraamine complexes altered the contractile response induced by norepinephrine, resulting in increased tone followed by relaxation. In rings with endothelium, the inhibition of endothelial NO caused a reduction of the contractile effect caused by pyridine NO. No significant responses were observed in rings with endothelium after treatment with cyclan NO. In contrast, in rings without endothelium, the inhibition of guanylate cyclase significantly reduced the contractile response caused by the pyridine NO and cyclan NO complexes, and both complexes caused a relaxing effect. Conclusion: The results indicate that the vascular effect of the evaluated complexes involved a decrease in the vascular tone induced by norepinephrine (10-6 M) at the end of the incubation period in aortic rings with and without endothelium, indicating the slow release of NO from these complexes and suggesting that the ligands promoted chemical stability to the molecule. Moreover, we demonstrated that the association of Ru with NO is more stable when the ligands pyridine and cyclan are used in the formulation of the compound.Fundamento: As tetra-aminas de rutênio cada vez mais se destacam como carreadoras da molécula de óxido nítrico. Desse modo, estudos farmacológicos tornam-se altamente relevantes, afim de melhor compreender o mecanismo de ação envolvido. Objetivo: Avaliar a resposta vascular das tetra-aminas trans-[RuII(NH3)4(Py)(NO)]3+, trans-[RuII(Cl)(NO)(Cyclan)](PF6)2 e trans-[RuII(NH3)4(4-acPy)(NO)]3+. Métodos: Anéis de aorta foram pré-contraídos com noradrenalina (10-6M). Após estabilização da tensão, concentração única (10-6M) dos compostos foi adicionada ao banho de incubação. As respostas foram registradas ao longo de 120 minutos. A integridade vascular foi avaliada funcionalmente (acetilcolina 10-6M; nitroprussiato de sódio 10-6M) e histologicamente Resultados: A análise histológica confirmou a presença ou não de células endoteliais nos tecidos analisados. Todos os complexos alteraram a resposta contrátil induzida pela noradrenalina, resultando em aumento de tônus seguido de efeito relaxante. Em anéis com endotélio, a inibição do óxido nítrico endotelial causou redução do efeito contrátil da piridina óxido nítrico. Não foram observadas respostas significativas em anéis com endotélio referente ao composto cyclan óxido nítrico. Por outro lado, em anéis sem endotélio, a inibição da guanilato ciclase reduziu significativamente a resposta contrátil dos complexos piridina óxido nítrico e cyclan óxido nítrico, levando ambos os compostos a um efeito relaxante. Conclusão: Os resultados obtidos demonstram que o efeito vascular dos complexos avaliados apresentaram diminuição no tônus vascular induzido pela noradrenalina (10-6M) ao final do tempo de incubação, em anéis com e sem endotélio, indicando liberação lenta da molécula de óxido nítrico do composto estudado e sugerindo que os ligantes causaram estabilidade química à molécula. Demonstramos que a ligação rutênio óxido nítrico é mais estável quando utilizamos os ligantes piridina e cyclan para a formulação do composto.

Audiogram Comparison Of Workers From Five Professional Categories.

Introduction. Noise is a major cause of health disorders in workers and has unique importance in the auditory analysis of people exposed to it. The purpose of this study is to evaluate the arithmetic mean of the auditory thresholds at frequencies of 3, 4, and 6 kHz of workers from five professional categories exposed to occupational noise. Methods. We propose a retrospective cross-sectional cohort study to analyze 2.140 audiograms from seven companies having five sectors of activity: one footwear company, one beverage company, two ceramics companies, two metallurgical companies, and two transport companies. Results. When we compared two categories, we noticed a significant difference only for cargo carriers in comparison to the remaining categories. In all activity sectors, the left ear presented the worst values, except for the footwear professionals (P > 0.05). We observed an association between the noise exposure time and the reduction of audiometric values for both ears. Significant differences existed for cargo carriers in relation to other groups. This evidence may be attributed to different forms of exposure. A slow and progressive deterioration appeared as the exposure time increased.

Pigmented Ameloblastic Fibro-odontoma: Clinical, Histological, And Immunohistochemical Profile.

Ameloblastic fibro-odontoma (AFO) is a slow-growing, expansive, benign odontogenic tumor, composed of ameloblastic epithelium embedded in an ectomesenchymal stroma resembling dental papilla, containing hard dental tissue in variable degrees of maturation, including enamel, dentin, and sometimes cementum. AFO typically affects the posterior mandible, causing bony expansion. We report a case of pigmented AFO in a 5-year-old boy, comprising clinical and histological features illustrated by immunohistochemistry using a large panel of antibodies, polarized light microscopy and scanning electron microscopy.

Ankhd1 Represses P21 (waf1/cip1) Promoter And Promotes Multiple Myeloma Cell Growth.

ANKHD1 (Ankyrin repeat and KH domain-containing protein 1) is highly expressed and plays an important role in the proliferation and cell cycle progression of multiple myeloma (MM) cells. ANKHD1 downregulation modulates cell cycle gene expression and upregulates p21 irrespective of the TP53 mutational status of MM cell lines. The present study was aimed to investigate the role of ANKHD1 in MM in vitro clonogenicity and in vivo tumourigenicity, as well as the role of ANKHD1 in p21 transcriptional regulation. ANKHD1 silencing in MM cells resulted in significantly low no. of colonies formed and in slow migration as compared to control cells (p < 0.05). Furthermore, in xenograft MM mice models, tumour growth was visibly suppressed in mice injected with ANKHD1 silenced cells compared to the control group. There was a significant decrease in tumour volume (p = 0.006) as well as in weight (p = 0.02) in the group injected with silenced cells compared to those of the control group. Co-immunoprecipitation and chromatin immunoprecipitation (ChIP) assays confirmed the interaction between p21 and ANKHD1. Moreover, overexpression of ANKHD1 downregulated the activity of a p21 promoter in luciferase assays. Decrease in luciferase activity suggests a direct role of ANKHD1 in p21 transcriptional regulation. In addition confocal analysis after U266 cells were treated with Leptomycin B (LMB) for 24 h showed accumulation of ANKHD1 inside the nucleus as compared to untreated cells where ANKHD1 was found to be predominantly in cytoplasm. This suggests ANKHD1 might be shuttling between cytoplasm and nucleus. In conclusion, ANKHD1 promotes MM growth by repressing p21 a potent cell cycle regulator.

Fundações de construções submetidas a esforços de tração em solo de alta porosidade da região de Campinas - SP

This paper presents the behavior of three bored piles conducted in diabasic soil submitted to uplift forces. The piles were built at the site for Experimental Studies in Soil Mechanics and Foundations of UNICAMP, located in the city of Campinas, Brazil. Field tests have already been conducted at the site (SPT, CPT, DMT and PMT), as well as laboratory tests by using sample soils taken from a well up to 17 m deep. The water table is not checked until a depth of 17 m. In order to check the behavior of the piles when submitted to uplift forces, slow static load tests were carried out as the recommendations of NBR 12131. The carrying capacity of these piles was also provided by means of theoretical methods, appropriate for uplift forces, and through semi-empirical methods appropriate for compression forces, considering only the portion of lateral resistance. The values estimated by using the considered methods were compared to those obtained by means of load tests. One of the tested piles was extracted from the soil to be the subject of a study on its geometry.