Nourishing or polluting : redefining the role of waste in the fashion system

Waste is intrinsic to the fashion system. Fashion is predicated on built-in obsolescence, and as such outmoded garments are rapidly discarded to charity shops or landfill. However, the story of fashion is also one of abundance and extravagance in design ideas. Every season there are new design details – prints, embroidery, embellishments, shapes and textures. This excess of ideas is in itself another form of waste, albeit one that is culturally nourishing. The grave of a fashion garment may also be the grave of a season’s research and creativity. This paper compares the tangible waste of the industry with its intangible waste, namely fashion’s creativity and cultural excess. Fashion’s excess and abundance of trends and ideas makes any move to curb the environmental impact difficult. For all practitioners of fashion – whether designers or consumers – the waste and excess inherent in the fashion system is a difficult ethical terrain to negotiate. However, inverting the wasteful phases of the production cycle can help reframe waste from pollution to a source of nourishment for future practice. While creative excesses of designers may be ‘wasted’ after a season, fashion styles and tropes are recycled and reinvented, with the once passé styles and design ideas from previous years revalorized and returned into the fashion system. Similarly, material garments acquire new value through entering or re-entering the second hand or vintage markets. Design processes can utilise pre or post-consumer textile waste, or eliminate waste through design. In these processes, waste becomes the primary source of nourishment for future fashion cycles.

Improvement of the statutory framework for construction and demolition waste management exemplified in Germany and Australia

Construction and demolition (C&D) waste occupies the largest share of overall waste generation in many countries. However, waste management practices and outcomes may differ between countries. For instance, in Australia, C&D waste recovery is continuously improving during the last years but the amount of C&D waste increases every year, as there has been little improvement in waste avoidance and minimization. In contrast, in Germany, waste generation remains constant over many years despite the continuous economic growth. The waste recycling rate in Germany is one of the highest in the world. However, most waste recycled is from demolition work rather than from waste generated during new construction. In addition, specific laws need to be developed to further reduce landfill of non-recycled waste. Despite of the differences, C&D waste generation and recovery in both countries depend on the effectiveness of the statutory framework, which regulates their waste management practices. This is an issue in other parts of the world as well. Therefore countries can learn from each other to improve their current statutory framework for C&D waste management. By taking Germany and Australia as an example, possible measures to improve current practices of C&D waste management through better statutory tools are identified in this paper. After providing an overview of the statutory framework of both countries and their status in waste generation and recovery, a SWOT analysis is conducted to identify strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats of the statutory tools. Recommendations to improve the current statutory frameworks, in order to achieve less waste generation and more waste recovery in the construction industry are provided for the German and Australian government and they can also be transferred to other countries.

Oblique-Shock-Wave/Boundary-Layer Interaction Using Near-Wall Reynolds-Stress Models

A synthesis is presented of the predictive capability of a family of near-wall wall-normal free Reynolds stress models (which are completely independent of wall topology, i.e., of the distance fromthe wall and the normal-to-thewall orientation) for oblique-shock-wave/turbulent-boundary-layer interactions. For the purpose of comparison, results are also presented using a standard low turbulence Reynolds number k–ε closure and a Reynolds stress model that uses geometric wall normals and wall distances. Studied shock-wave Mach numbers are in the range MSW = 2.85–2.9 and incoming boundary-layer-thickness Reynolds numbers are in the range Reδ0 = 1–2×106. Computations were carefully checked for grid convergence. Comparison with measurements shows satisfactory agreement, improving on results obtained using a k–ε model, and highlights the relative importance of redistribution and diffusion closures, indicating directions for future modeling work.

Influence of inflow turbulence in shock-wave/turbulent-boundary-layer interaction computations

The influence of inflow turbulence on the results of Favre–Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes computations of supersonic oblique-shock-wave/turbulent-boundary-layer interactions (shock-wave Mach-number MSW ∼2.9), using seven-equation Reynolds-stress model turbulence closures, is studied. The generation of inflow conditions (and the initialization of the flowfield) for mean flow, Reynolds stresses, and turbulence length scale, based on semi-analytic grid-independent boundary-layer profiles, is described in detail. Particular emphasis is given to freestream turbulence intensity and length scale. The influence of external-flow turbulence intensity is studied in detail both for flat-plate boundary-layer flow and for a compression-ramp interaction with large separation. It is concluded that the Reynolds-stress model correctly reproduces the effects of external flow turbulence.

Contribution to single-point closure Reynolds-stress modelling of inhomogeneous flow

This paper is concerned with recent advances in the development of near wall-normal-free Reynolds-stress models, whose single point closure formulation, based on the inhomogeneity direction concept, is completely independent of the distance from the wall, and of the normal to the wall direction. In the present approach the direction of the inhomogeneity unit vector is decoupled from the coefficient functions of the inhomogeneous terms. A study of the relative influence of the particular closures used for the rapid redistribution terms and for the turbulent diffusion is undertaken, through comparison with measurements, and with a baseline Reynolds-stress model (RSM) using geometric wall normals. It is shown that wall-normal-free rsms can be reformulated as a projection on a tensorial basis that includes the inhomogeneity direction unit vector, suggesting that the theory of the redistribution tensor closure should be revised by taking into account inhomogeneity effects in the tensorial integrity basis used for its representation.

CAT-GRAPH+ : towards odometry-driven place consolidation in changing environments

Changing environments present a number of challenges to mobile robots, one of the most significant being mapping and localisation. This problem is particularly significant in vision-based systems where illumination and weather changes can cause feature-based techniques to fail. In many applications only sections of an environment undergo extreme perceptual change. Some range-based sensor mapping approaches exploit this property by combining occasional place recognition with the assumption that odometry is accurate over short periods of time. In this paper, we develop this idea in the visual domain, by using occasional vision-driven loop closures to infer loop closures in nearby locations where visual recognition is difficult due to extreme change. We demonstrate successful map creation in an environment in which change is significant but constrained to one area, where both the vanilla CAT-Graph and a Sum of Absolute Differences matcher fails, use the described techniques to link dissimilar images from matching locations, and test the robustness of the system against false inferences.

Observation of bus ridership in the aftermath of the 2011 Floods in Southeast Queensland, Australia

The 2011 floods in Southeast Queensland had a devastating impact on many sectors including transport. Road and rail systems across all flooded areas of Queensland were severely affected and significant economic losses occurred as a result of roadway and railway closures. Travellers were compelled to take alternative routes because of road closures or deteriorated traffic conditions on their regular route. Extreme changes in traffic volume can occur under such scenarios which disrupts the network re-equilibrium and re-stabilisation in the recovery phase as travellers continuously adjust their travel options. This study explores how travellers respond to such a major network disruption. A comprehensive study was undertaken focusing on how bus riders reacted to the floods in Southeast Queensland by comparing the ridership patterns before, during and after the floods. The study outcomes revealed the evolving reactions of transit users to direct and indirect impacts of a natural disaster. A good understanding of this process is crucial for developing appropriate strategies to encourage modal shift of automobile users to public transit and also for modelling of travel behaviours during and after a major network disruption caused by natural disasters.

New labour and the environment : too little too late.

New Labour and the environment: too little too late – symbolic success but real failure Achievements: Introduction of the Climate Change Act 2008, Low Carbon Transition Plan, the creation of the Department of Energy and Climate Change, establishment of several ‘green’ quangos and Green Investment Bank, Warm Front Scheme, international leadership on Kyoto and the European Directive for Landfill and Renewable Energy. Disappointments: Increased green house gas emissions that failto meet domestic UK targets, let alone Kyoto; significant increasesin energy and transport emissions; EU air pollution violations; failure to regulate the importation of illegally logged timber and wildlife; increase in chemical agriculture; unwillingness to tackle corporate environmental crime; road expansions and runway projects at the expense of low emission alternative public transport. Biggest broken promises: Global warming, low carbon transport; protection of biodiversity.

Odometry-driven inference to link multiple exemplars of a location

A major challenge for robot localization and mapping systems is maintaining reliable operation in a changing environment. Vision-based systems in particular are susceptible to changes in illumination and weather, and the same location at another time of day may appear radically different to a system using a feature-based visual localization system. One approach for mapping changing environments is to create and maintain maps that contain multiple representations of each physical location in a topological framework or manifold. However, this requires the system to be able to correctly link two or more appearance representations to the same spatial location, even though the representations may appear quite dissimilar. This paper proposes a method of linking visual representations from the same location without requiring a visual match, thereby allowing vision-based localization systems to create multiple appearance representations of physical locations. The most likely position on the robot path is determined using particle filter methods based on dead reckoning data and recent visual loop closures. In order to avoid erroneous loop closures, the odometry-based inferences are only accepted when the inferred path's end point is confirmed as correct by the visual matching system. Algorithm performance is demonstrated using an indoor robot dataset and a large outdoor camera dataset.

Resection-intersection bundle adjustment revisited

Bundle adjustment is one of the essential components of the computer vision toolbox. This paper revisits the resection-intersection approach, which has previously been shown to have inferior convergence properties. Modifications are proposed that greatly improve the performance of this method, resulting in a fast and accurate approach. Firstly, a linear triangulation step is added to the intersection stage, yielding higher accuracy and improved convergence rate. Secondly, the effect of parameter updates is tracked in order to reduce wasteful computation; only variables coupled to significantly changing variables are updated. This leads to significant improvements in computation time, at the cost of a small, controllable increase in error. Loop closures are handled effectively without the need for additional network modelling. The proposed approach is shown experimentally to yield comparable accuracy to a full sparse bundle adjustment (20% error increase) while computation time scales much better with the number of variables. Experiments on a progressive reconstruction system show the proposed method to be more efficient by a factor of 65 to 177, and 4.5 times more accurate (increasing over time) than a localised sparse bundle adjustment approach.

Energy Transformed : Building Capacity in the Engineering Profession in Australia

Global pressures of burgeoning population growth and consumption are threatening efforts to reduce negative environmental pressures associated with development such as atmospheric, land and water pollution. For example, the world’s population is now growing at over 70 million per year or 1 billion per decade (Brown, 2007), increasing from 3.5 billion in 1970, to 5 billion in 1990, to 7 billion by 2010 (United Nations, 2002). In 1990 only 13 percent of the global population lived in cities, while in 2007 more than half did. More than 60 percent of the global population lives within 100 kilometers of the coastline (World Resources Institute, 2005) and nearly all of the population growth hereon is forecast to happen in developing countries (Postel, 1999). Future levels of stress on the global environment are therefore likely to increase if current trends are used for forecasting, which is particularly challenging as scientists are already observing significant signs of degradation and failure in environmental systems. For example, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change Fourth Assessment Report (IPCC, 2007) provided an nequivocal link between climate change and current human activities, in particular: the burning of fossil fuels; deforestation and land clearing; the use of synthetic greenhouse gases; and decomposition of wastes from landfill. The UK Stern Review concluded that within our lifetime there is between a 77 to 99 percent chance (depending on the climate model used) of the global average temperature rising by more than 2 degrees Celsius (Stern, 2006), with a likely greenhouse gas concentration in the atmosphere of 550 parts per million (ppm) or more by around 2100.

Impinging jet simulation of stationary downburst flow over topography

A non-translating, long duration thunderstorm downburst has been simulated experimentally and numerically by modelling a spatially stationary steady flow impinging air jet. Velocity profiles were shown to compare well with an upper-bound of velocity measurements reported for full-scale microbursts. Velocity speed-up over a range of topographic features in simulated downburst flow was also tested with comparisons made to previous work in a similar flow, and also boundary layer wind tunnel experiments. It was found that the amplification measured above the crest of topographic features in simulated downburst flow was up to 35% less than that observed in boundary layer flow for all shapes tested. From the computational standpoint we conclude that the Shear Stress Transport (SST) model performs the best from amongst a range of eddy-viscosity and second moment closures tested for modelling the impinging jet flow.

Pandemic planning as risk management : how fared the Australian Federation?

The role of law in managing public health challenges such as influenza pandemics poses special challenges. This article reviews Australian plans in the context of the H1N1 09 experience to assess whether risk management was facilitated or inhibited by the "number" of levels or phases of management, the degree of prescriptive detail for particular phases, the number of plans, the clarity of the relationship between them, and the role of the media. Despite differences in the content and form of the plans at the time of the H1N1 09 emerging pandemic, the article argues that in practice, the plans proved to be responsive and robust bases for managing pandemic risks. It is suggested that this was because the plans proved to be frameworks for coordination rather than prescriptive straitjackets, to be only one component of the regulatory response, and to offer the varied tool box of possible responses, as called for by the theory of responsive regulation. Consistent with the principle of subsidiarity, it is argued that the plans did not inhibit localised responses such as selective school closures or rapid responses to selected populations such as cruise ship passengers.

Silk purse, sow’s ear : transforming second-Hand clothing into luxury fashion through craft practice

There is more apparel being created than ever before in history. The unsustainable production of materials and the clothing and textile waste that contributes annually to landfill, an estimated 500 000 tonnes of clothing per year in the UK (Gray, 2012) are significant issues inspiring the practice of Australian fashion designers, Carla van Lunn and Carla Binotto. While the contemporary fashion industry is built upon a production and consumption model that is younger than the industrial revolution, the traditions of costume, craft, and bodily adornment are ancient practices. Binotto and van Lunn believe that the potential for sustainable fashion practice lies outside the current industrial manufacturing model. This case study will discuss their fashion label, Maison Briz Vegas, and examine how recycling and traditional craft practices can be used to address the problem of clothing waste and offer an alternative idea of value in fashion and materials, addressing the indicative conference theme, Craft as Sustainability Activism in Practice. “Maison Briz Vegas”, a play on the notion of French luxury and the designers’ new world and sub-tropical home town, Brisbane, is an experimental and craft-based fashion label that uses second-hand cotton T-shirts and wool sweaters as primary materials to create designer fashion. The first collection, titled “The Wasteland”, was conceived and created in Paris in 2011, where designer Carla van Lunn had been living and working for several years. The collection was inspired by the precariousness of the global economy and concerns about climate change. The mountains of discarded clothing found at flea markets provided a textile resource from which van Lunn created a recycled hand-crafted fashion collection with an activist message and was shown to buyers and press during Paris Fashion Week. The label has since become a collaboration with fellow Australian designer Carla Binotto. The craft processes employed in Maison Briz Vegas’ up-cycled fashion collections include original hand block-printing, hand embroidery, quilting and patchwork. Taking an artisanal and slow approach, the designers work to create a hand touched imperfect style in a fashion market flooded with digital printing and fast mass-produced garments. The recycling extends to garment fastenings and embellishments, with discarded jar lids and bottle tops being used as buttons and within embroidery. This process transforms the material and aesthetic value of cheap and generic second-hand clothing and household waste. Maison Briz Vegas demonstrates the potential for craft and design to be an interface for environmental activism within the world of fashion. Presenting garments that are both high-design and thoughtfully recycled in a significant fashion context, such as Paris Fashion Week, Maison Briz Vegas has been able to engage a high-profile luxury fashion audience which has not traditionally considered sustainable or eco practices as relevant or desirable in themselves. The designers are studying how to apply their production model on a greater scale in order to fill commercial orders and reach a wider audience whilst maintaining the element of bespoke, limited edition, and slow hand-craft within their work.

Gender, sexuality, and rurality in the mining industry

Sexuality is a subject that has been, at best, marginal in the significant body of literature that has examined gender and mining in contemporary Western nations. This is despite the fact that academics have circled, if not almost bumped into the topic in closely related discussions of hegemonic masculinity and mining work, and of patriarchal familial relations and mining communities. This scholarship has documented what has been and remains women’s primary relationship to mining—that is, as a “mining wife.” How patriarchal relations are manifest in and emerge from this state of affairs has been critiqued with research on the gendered implications of housing arrangements in mining towns, the division of household labor, changing shift-work mining rosters, and the gendered consequences of strikes and mine closures (Williams 1981; Gibson 1992; Gibson-Graham 1996; Rhodes 2005; McDonald, Mayes, and Pini 2012). Despite the centrality of the heterosexual relationship—and indeed heteronormativity—to these discussions, scholars of gender and mining have had little to say on the subject of sexuality. In response to this lacuna, this chapter takes an exploratory lens to the subject of sexuality and the mining industry. We approach the task from the perspective that the mining industry is gendered as masculine. That is, definitions of mining mobilize around masculinized notions of physicality, technical competence with machinery, and strength, as well as emphasize the harshness and dirtiness of the work (Mayes and Pini 2010).