Okupar, resistir, insistir : uma etnografia das práticas de ocupação urbana Fortaleza / Ceará

The objective of this dissertation is understand the relationships built between subjects who occupy buildings in a state of abandonment to revitalize them - called okupas, noting which individuals construct such meanings on the practice of occupation and how to organize the construction and maintenance of a collective life project. Having the Okupa Squat Torém, located in the neighborhood of Fatima in the southern city of Fortaleza-CE, as locus and observed through the ethnographic method, followed the social practices of urban segment. I invested in a data collection revealed that the custom of okupas and their domestic habits, inside and outside of okupa, emphasizing the interaction situations, like most appropriate occasions to observe the constant negotiation and refinement of his cunning to intervene in the city . Among the objectives of this research, the main thing is to observe which senses are assigned to the practice of the occupation by okupas. For this, reflecting from the specifics of this urban phenomenon and talking mostly with the tradition of research in the field of anthropology, I tried to address some issues regarding the practice of okupação and organization of the group, which the principles and movements that make these contacts with city etc. The appropriation made by the subjects on the urban space here means understanding them as a cultural expression of a number of collective values, resulting from experience and perception of okupas like themselves. The intention is to show how this practice intervention and collective action has appeared in contemporary times and how my ethnography can contribute to a dialogue on the practices of mobilization and update of the city, considering the Theory of Recognition Axel Honneth (2003) as an analytical category useful to describe the forms of reciprocity experienced by okupas

The Ballets Russes connection with fashion.

This paper examines the influence that the costume designers of the Ballets Russes, many of whom were important artists from significant art movements of the day, had on contemporaneous fashion. It looks at why in particular the 'Ballets Russes' artists Leon Bakst and Natalia Goncharova went on to involve themselves in actual fashion production and the similarities between their work and the fashion designers producing work at the same time, principally Paul Poiret, Mariano Fortuny and Coco Chanel. Overall, this paper investigates the significance of the cultural times and of the distinct characteristics of the separate art forms, that may have encouraged avant-garde art and fashion to crossover and collaborate so unreservedly.

A visual and contextual comparative study of the work of Picasso and Chanel towards an understanding of the overlaps between Modern Art and Fashion.

From the beginning of the twentieth century, ``Modernism`` impacted and transformed art and clothing. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle ``Coco`` Chanel were two of the most central characters in Modernism working simultaneously in their disciplines. Picasso`s innovations, particularly in abstract art and Chanel`s fashion designs, that dramatically departed from the previous corseted and highly deco-rative styles, were so significant that they have left an influence on contemporary art and fashion. This study will compare their visual works and documented evidence of their motivations, within the context of their cultural backgrounds, to reveal meaning in the occurrences of overlaps. This approach has ex-amined the historical, cultural background of the artist and designer`s environment from different per-spectives, adding to previous research in this area. Through this research, outcomes of the analysis have shown similarities and divergences in the wider genres of art and fashion and the practice of the artist and fashion designer. The reference list to this text, used in the survey, gives a comprehensive overview of pertinent publications disseminating Picasso and Chanel`s visual works, oral perspectives and cultural impact.

Okupar, resistir, insistir : uma etnografia das práticas de ocupação urbana Fortaleza / Ceará

The objective of this dissertation is understand the relationships built between subjects who occupy buildings in a state of abandonment to revitalize them - called okupas, noting which individuals construct such meanings on the practice of occupation and how to organize the construction and maintenance of a collective life project. Having the Okupa Squat Torém, located in the neighborhood of Fatima in the southern city of Fortaleza-CE, as locus and observed through the ethnographic method, followed the social practices of urban segment. I invested in a data collection revealed that the custom of okupas and their domestic habits, inside and outside of okupa, emphasizing the interaction situations, like most appropriate occasions to observe the constant negotiation and refinement of his cunning to intervene in the city . Among the objectives of this research, the main thing is to observe which senses are assigned to the practice of the occupation by okupas. For this, reflecting from the specifics of this urban phenomenon and talking mostly with the tradition of research in the field of anthropology, I tried to address some issues regarding the practice of okupação and organization of the group, which the principles and movements that make these contacts with city etc. The appropriation made by the subjects on the urban space here means understanding them as a cultural expression of a number of collective values, resulting from experience and perception of okupas like themselves. The intention is to show how this practice intervention and collective action has appeared in contemporary times and how my ethnography can contribute to a dialogue on the practices of mobilization and update of the city, considering the Theory of Recognition Axel Honneth (2003) as an analytical category useful to describe the forms of reciprocity experienced by okupas

Ilustração de moda segundo a obra de Mucha, Klimt e Schiele

Dissertação para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Design de Moda, apresentada na Universidade de Lisboa - Faculdade de Arquitectura.

Non-invasive methodology for the identification of plastic pieces in museum environment – a novel approach

The preservation of modern and contemporary art and costume collections in museums requires a complete understanding of their constituent materials which are often synthetic or semi-synthetic polymers. An extraordinary amount of quality information can be gained from instrumental techniques, but some of them have the disadvantage of being destructive. This paper presents a new totally integrated non-invasive methodology, for the identification of polymers and their additives, on plastic artefacts in museums. NMR (nuclear magnetic resonance) and in-situ FTIR-ATR (attenuated total reflection infrared spectroscopy) combination allowed the full characterization of the structure of thesematerials and correct identification of each one. The NMR technique applied to leached surface exudates identified unequivocally a great number of additives, exceeding the Py–GC–MS analysis of micro-fragments in number and efficiency. Additionally, in-situ FTIR-ATR provided exactly the same information of the destructive μ-FTIR about the polymer structure and confirmed the presence of some additives. Eight costume pieces (cosmetic boxes and purses), dating to the beginning of the 20th century and belonging to the Portuguese National Museum of Costume and Fashion, were correctly identified with this new integrated methodology, as beingmade of plastics derived fromcellulose acetate or cellulose nitrate polymers, contradicting the initial information that these pieces were made of Bakelite. The identification of a surprisingly large number of different additives forms an added value of this methodology and opens a perspective of a quick and better characterization of plastic artefacts in museum environments.

AS MEMÓRIAS INDÍGENAS REPRESENTADAS PELO PERSONAGEM KAKÁ EM ORÉ AWÉ ROIRU’A MA

A obra Oré awé roiru’a ma: todas as vezes que dissemos adeus (2002), de Kaká Jecupé narra a história de um jovem índio que viu a cidade de São Paulo crescer desenfreadamente. O autor abordou em sua narrativa os fatores que interferiram nos costume e na qualidade de vida da comunidade indígena. Apresenta a necessidade de uma negociação entre os povos indígenas e a sociedade nacional para evitar “o extermínio do mundo indígena e do ecossistema”. É um escritor indígena e mediador cultural, cuja trajetória é marcada pelo hibridismo cultural, pois se relacionou com diversas outras etnias.  Além do fascínio de escrever, encontrou uma forma aliada na luta pela afirmação identitária indígena. O Brasil é um país que apresenta uma pluralidade muito grande quando se refere ao seu povo e, consequentemente, a sua cultura. As diferenças etnicas que aqui existem devem ser respeitados e valorizadas, pois temos um povo mesclado, miscigenado. Dessa forma, a mestiçagem tornou-se um assunto comum da nação, constituindo o fator identitário do povo habitante deste país. Jecupé tem a preocupação de defender  heranças culturais de seu povo através da literatura, através da escrita. Assim, os grupos minoritários podem assumir e defender suas diferenças culturais.