Fashion communication: a way to change comsumption behaviour towards ethical fashion

In view of the major social and environmental problems, with which we are faced nowadays, we noticed a certain absence of values in society, where man draws many more resources than nature can replace in the short or medium term. Within the framework of fashion emerges the ethical fashion as a movement in this direction, intending to change this current paradigm. Ethical fashion encompasses different concepts such as fair trade, sustainability, working conditions, raw materials, social responsibility and the protection of animals. This study aims to determine which type of communication are fashion brands using in this context, and if this communication aims at educating the consumer for a more ethical consumer behavior. For this study were selected 44 fashion brands associated with the Ethical Trade Initiative. The method used for the research development was content analysis for which first was made a data collection of the information provided on the websites and social networks of the selected fashion brands. The data was analyzed taking into account the quality and type of information published related to ethical fashion, for which an ordinal scale was created as a way of measuring and comparing results.

Narrative change in Gloria Films: Comparing various processes of therapeutic innovation

Aims: The present study focuses on the analysis of novelty emergence in classic Gloria Films with Rogers, Perls, and Ellis to understand how the same client formulated her own problem and if and how change occurred in those three sessions. Method: The Innovative Moments Coding System was applied to track innovative moments (IMs) and their themes. Results: The session with Rogers showed more diversity in disclosed problems and themes of IMs, as well as a higher proportion of reflection IMs. The session with Perls demonstrated a high proportion of protest IMs. The session with Ellis showed less innovation than other sessions. The changes found were based mostly on reflection and protest IMs in three sessions. Conclusion: Narrative innovations occurred in the three single sessions. The type of dominant innovation is consistent with the therapeutic model and the IMs model. The exploration of the IMs’ themes allowed a more precise identification of Gloria's new narrative positions and their development throughout those sessions.

Optimal behavior of responsive residential demand considering hybrid phase change materials

Due to communication and technology developments, residential consumers are enabled to participate in Demand Response Programs (DRPs), control their consumption and decrease their cost by using Household Energy Management (HEM) systems. On the other hand, capability of energy storage systems to improve the energy efficiency causes that employing Phase Change Materials (PCM) as thermal storage systems to be widely addressed in the building applications. In this paper, an operational model of HEM system considering the incorporation of more than one type of PCM in plastering mortars (hybrid PCM) is proposed not only to minimize the customerâ s cost in different DRPs but also to guaranty the habitantsâ  satisfaction. Moreover, the proposed model ensures the technical and economic limits of batteries and electrical appliances. Different case studies indicate that implementation of hybrid PCM in the buildings can meaningfully affect the operational pattern of HEM systems in different DRPs. The results reveal that the customerâ s electricity cost can be reduced up to 48% by utilizing the proposed model.

Corte térmico: orçamentação de produtos e racionalização do processo

Dissertação de mestrado integrado em Engenharia Mecânica

Deteção remota na avaliação das alterações da cobertura do solo no Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês

Dissertação de mestrado integrado em Engenharia Civil

The Portuguese programme one laptop per child: political, educational and social impact

In 2008, the XVII Portuguese Constitutional Government launched the ‘e.escolinha’ programme, within the Technological Plan for Education, which set out the distribution of a computer, called ‘Magalhães’, designed for chil-dren attending the 1st cycle of basic education. Suspended in 2011 by the XIX Government, this programme has allowed, however, almost 500 000 children to have access to a personal computer. It was expected that this political measure would “revolutionise” the national education system by bringing changes to the pedagogical practices of teachers and the learning processes of children and by achieving educational success, in general. Based on documental analysis and on a set of interviews with key decision-makers in conceiving, implementing and monitoring this governmental initiative, the fi rst part of this chapter presents and analyses the ‘e.escolinha’ initiative and the policies be-hind that governmental programme, seeking to disassemble those objectives and provide some insights into the relationship between discourses, rhetoric, and reality. After that, the chapter focuses on children’s uses and practices with the ‘Magalhães’ laptop, at school and at home. Based on the results of questionnaires fi lled in by approximately 1500 children from 32 First Cycle public schools of the municipality of Braga (north of Portugal) and also from questionnaires applied to their parents and teachers, this chapter intends to analyse the real impact of this initiative for children, family and school. It also seeks to discuss the contribution of this educational policy to children’s digital literacy and also to their own and their families’ social and digital inclusion. To understand if it represented an added value to teachers’ pedagogical practice is another of its aims. The fi ndings point out a major focus on technology and access rather than on uses and competences or even on social, educational and cultural change. In fact, a major conclusion is the existence of a strong gap between the policy and the practices, typical of a top-down policy design. This study is an integrant part of a research project titled “Navigating with ‘Magalhães’: Study on the Impact of Digital Media in Schoolchildren” conducted at the University of Minho, Portugal, financed by the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology [PTDC/CCI-COM/101381/2008] and co-funded by the European Regional Development Fund [COMPETE: FCOMP-01-0124-FEDER-009056].

Couple's willingness to donate embryos for research: a longitudinal study

Introduction. Decision-making on embryo disposition is a source of distress and is subject to change over time. This paper analyses the willingness of couples undergoing in vitro fertilization to donate cryopreserved embryos for research from 15 days after embryo transfer to 12 months later, taking into account the influence of psychosocial, demographic, and reproductive factors. Materials and methods. Prospective longitudinal study, with 74 heterosexual couples undergoing in vitro fertilization in a public fertility centre in Portugal, recruited between 2011 and 2012. Participants were evaluated twice: 15 days after embryo transfer and 12 months later. Results. A significant decrease in patients’ willingness to donate embryos for research over time was observed [86.5% to 73.6%; relative risk (RR) = 0.85; 95% CI 0.76–0.95]. A higher education level (>12 years) [adjusted RR (RRadj) = 0.79; 95% CI 0.64–0.96], considering research on human embryos to be important (vs. very important) (RRadj = 0.59; 95% CI 0.39–0.85) and practicing a religion less than once a month (vs. at least once a month) (RRadj = 0.73; 95% CI 0.53–1.00) seemed associated with unwillingness to donate embryos for research over time. Change towards non-donation happened mainly among couples who first considered that it was better to donate than wasting the embryos. Change towards donation occurred mostly among those stating that their priority at time 1 was to have a baby and who became pregnant in the meantime. Conclusions. Quality of care guided by patients’ characteristics, values, preferences, and needs calls for considering the factors and reasons underlying couples’ willingness to donate embryos for research over time as a topic in psychosocial guidelines for infertility and medically assisted reproductive care.

24-h urinary free cortisol from mid-pregnancy to 3-months postpartum: gender and parity differences and effects

Background: Pregnancy and postpartum have been associated to several physiological changes;however, empirical evidence was almost exclusively obtained in primiparous women and few studies focus on hormonal changes in men and second-time parents. The main aim of this study is to examine 24-h urinary free cortisol from mid-pregnancy to 3-months postpartum, comparing women/men and first/second-time parents.Methods: Twenty-six women and 22 men (N = 48) were recruited from an antenatal obstetric unit in Porto, Portugal. 24-h urinary free cortisol was measured at the 2nd and 3rd trimester and at 3-months postpartum. Repeated measures analyses of variance were conducted, in order to analyze 24-h urinary free cortisol patterns of change over this period. Gender and parity were included in the analyses as potential modifiers, in order to compare women and men, and first-and second-time parents.Results: An increase from the 2nd to the 3rd trimester (p = .006) and a decrease from the 3rd trimester to 3-months postpartum (p = .005) were reported in all parents’ 24-h urinary free cortisol. The interaction effects for Time * Gender (p = .03) and Time * Parity (p = .02) were found. Women and first-time parents revealed higher levels, while men and second-time parents showed lower 24-h urinary free cortisol levels at the 2nd trimester than at 3-months postpartum.Conclusions: Findings appear to clarify the direction, as well as, the timing, gender and parity extension of 24-h urinary free cortisol changes from mid-pregnancy to 3-months postpartum.The same pattern of change in all parents’ 24-h urinary free cortisol from mid-pregnancy to 3-months postpartum is consistent with the proposed role of hormones in preparation to parenting.

Incorporation of hybrid phase change materials in plastering mortars for increased energy efficiency in buildings

Tese de Doutoramento em Engenharia Civil.

Dispersión agrícola y cambio social en las Sierras de Córdoba (ca. 1000 a C.- 1600 d C.) Agricultural spread and social change in Córdoba Hills (ca. 1000 b C- 1600 a D.)

El proceso cultural en las Sierras de Córdoba fue habitualmente concebido como marginal con respecto al Noroeste Argentino. Tras el establecimiento del esquema básico de la secuencia prehispánica, a mediados del siglo pasado, se definió una etapa agroalfarera de cronología tardía, que continuaba a una extensa etapa precerámica cuyos límites se aproximaban a la transición Pleistoceno-Holoceno. Se hacía referencia, de este modo, al advenimiento de un modo de vida agrícola y aldeano, que reemplazaba a otro basado en la caza y recolección. Dicha transformación, alternativamente atribuida a la población cazadora local o a una migración de grupos agricultores desde regiones vecinas, se habría consumado hacia 1500 AP, fijando uno de los límites de la dispersión de la agricultura andina. Es necesario destacar la extremada escasez y el carácter indirecto de las evidencias arqueológicas utilizadas para sustentar la ocurrencia de tal proceso. Asimismo, la vigencia de supuestos que han comenzado a mostrar inconsistencias con los resultados de las recientes investigaciones. Entre ellos, principalmente, el que asume que la introducción de la agricultura dio paso a una transformación radical de las sociedades prehispánicas, constituyendo un hito fundamental en su devenir histórico, el comienzo de una nueva etapa. Nuestros últimos estudios en el sector central de las Sierras de Córdoba apuntaron, entre otros objetivos, a reconocer indicadores arqueológicos directos de producción agrícola, así como de la manipulación y consumo de plantas cultivadas. Los primeros resultados nos permiten vislumbrar un escenario complejo que desafía los modelos vigentes. El consumo de maíz, por ejemplo, parece haber antecedido por muchos siglos a la adopción de prácticas agrícolas. El acceso a este cultígeno, sumado a otros elementos, indicaría cambios entre los cazadores-recolectores serranos, promovidos por su integración en redes macrorregionales que los vincularon con sociedades agricultoras de la vertiente oriental andina y quizás del Chaco Santiagueño, por lo menos desde 2500 AP. En definitiva, la agricultura no parece haber sido adoptada rápidamente ni provocado transformaciones profundas e inmediatas en la organización de los grupos prehispánicos. Se ha observado, por el contrario, la incorporación gradual de distintas innovaciones que incluso permiten relacionar la manipulación y más tarde el cultivo de plantas domesticadas, con procesos de intensificación productiva de mayor escala temporal. Uno de nuestros objetivos en este proyecto consiste, básicamente, en profundizar las investigaciones en curso a fin de ampliar el cuerpo de datos con el cual analizar y discutir el problema de la dispersión agrícola en la región. Ello implica el tratamiento de diferentes líneas de evidencia, en particular: 1) la distribución regional de sitios arqueológicos y las modalidades de ocupación de las tierras cultivables; 2) la búsqueda de superficies de cultivo en sitios estratificados; y 3) estudios arqueobotánicos, polínicos y de isótopos estables. Se entiende que no le corresponde a la arqueología asumir apriorísticamente el significado histórico de la introducción de la agricultura, sino establecerlo en cada caso puntual a través de la investigación concreta. Nuestro segundo objetivo consiste, por lo tanto, en delinear los cambios (económicos, tecnológicos, políticos, sociales) que acompañaron al proceso de dispersión agrícola. Ello implica el tratamiento de diferentes problemas, entre otros: 1) las prácticas de apropiación de los recursos silvestres; 2) la continuidad y cambio tecnológico; 3) la movilidad y la articulación microambiental; y 4) los aspectos políticos y sociales ligados a prácticas como la molienda grupal y la producción del arte rupestre. The radical chage of societies from hunter-gatherers to farmers in 1500 BP was considered a milestone whitin the cultural process of pre-hispanic societies in Cordoba Hill. But there is a shortage of archaeological remains to support this change and there are weak hypotheses of absolute transformations. During the last years, our studies carried out on the central area of Cordoba Hill have tried to recognize direct archaeological signs of agriculture production as well as the handling and consumption of crops. The first results show a complex set that challenges the current theoretical models. For example, the corn was probably eatten prior to its adoption for farm practices. Our first main consists in increasing a corpus of data about the spread of agriculture in Cordoba region that we have been researching for the last years. These researches involve different lines of evidence: 1-regional location of archaeological sites and kinds of occupation on cultivable lands; 2-the search for plots at archaeological sites; 3-archaeobotanical, pollen and stable isotopes studies. Our second main consists in outlining changes within the spread of agriculture. It implies to considering different problems: 1-the practices to gatherer wild resources; 2-the continuity and changes of technologies; 3-the mobility and the articulation on the micro-environment; 4-political and social aspects in connection with activities such as groupal grinding and rock art productions.

Investigating the long term planning framework for the Galway Bay community from climate change.

This research looked at the scientific evidence available on climate change and in particular, projections on sea level rise which ranged from 0.5m to 2m by the end of the century. These projections were then considered in an Irish context. A review of current policy in Ireland revealed that there was no dedicated Government policy on climate change or coastal zone management. In terms of spatial planning policy, it became apparent that there was little or no guidance on climate change either at a national, regional or local level. Therefore, to determine the likely impacts of sea level rise in Ireland based on current spatial planning practice and policy, a scenario-building exercise was carried out for two case study areas in Galway Bay. The two case study areas were: Oranmore, a densely populated town located to the east of Inner Galway Bay; and Tawin Island, a rural dispersed community, located to the south east of Inner Galway Bay. A ‘best’ and ‘worse’ case scenario was envisaged for both areas in terms of sea level rise. In the absence of specific climate change policies it was projected that in the ‘best’ case scenario of 0.5m sea level rise, Tawin Island would suffer serious and adverse impacts while Oranmore was likely to experience slight to moderate impacts. However, in the ‘worse’ case scenario of a 2m sea level rise, it was likely that Tawin Island would be abandoned while many houses, businesses and infrastructure built within the floodplain of Oranmore Bay would be inundated and permanently flooded. In this regard, it was the author’s opinion that a strategic and integrated climate change policy and adaptation plan is vital for the island of Ireland that recognises the importance of integrated land use and spatial planning in terms of mitigation and adaptation to climate change.

Flood analysis of the clare river catchment considering traditional factors and climate change

The main objective of this thesis on flooding was to produce a detailed report on flooding with specific reference to the Clare River catchment. Past flooding in the Clare River catchment was assessed with specific reference to the November 2009 flood event. A Geographic Information System was used to produce a graphical representation of the spatial distribution of the November 2009 flood. Flood risk is prominent within the Clare River catchment especially in the region of Claregalway. The recent flooding events of November 2009 produced significant fluvial flooding from the Clare River. This resulted in considerable flood damage to property. There were also hidden costs such as the economic impact of the closing of the N17 until floodwater subsided. Land use and channel conditions are traditional factors that have long been recognised for their effect on flooding processes. These factors were examined in the context of the Clare River catchment to determine if they had any significant effect on flood flows. Climate change has become recognised as a factor that may produce more significant and frequent flood events in the future. Many experts feel that climate change will result in an increase in the intensity and duration of rainfall in western Ireland. This would have significant implications for the Clare River catchment, which is already vulnerable to flooding. Flood estimation techniques are a key aspect in understanding and preparing for flood events. This study uses methods based on the statistical analysis of recorded data and methods based on a design rainstorm and rainfall-runoff model to estimate flood flows. These provide a mathematical basis to evaluate the impacts of various factors on flooding and also to generate practical design floods, which can be used in the design of flood relief measures. The final element of the thesis includes the author’s recommendations on how flood risk management techniques can reduce existing flood risk in the Clare River catchment. Future implications to flood risk due to factors such as climate change and poor planning practices are also considered.

Modernisierung der Wärmeversorgung von zwei Liegenschaften der SWG Tangerhütte GmbH in Grieben und Tangerhütte

In this work, energy concepts for two completely different properties are sought. The first property is a deconstruction of an apartment building with 26 residential units on two separate buildings with 6 residential units. The energy concepts should enable an energy efficient house and allow options for renewable fuels. The second property includes four buildings which are supplied with fuel oil. A change to use natural gas is planned and wherever possible CHP technology for highly efficient use of energy.

Recent brazilian experience on farmer reaction and crop response to fertilizer use

(1) In the period 1965/77 fertilizer consumption in Brazil increased nearly fifteen foild from circa 200,000 tons of N + P2O5 + K2O to 3 million tons. During the fifteen years extending from 1950 to 1964 usage of the primary macronutrients was raised by a factor of 2 only. (2) Several explanations are given for the remarkable increase, namely: an experimental background which supplied data for recommendations of rates, time and type of application; a convenient governmental policy for minimum prices and rural credit; capacity of the industry to meet the demand of the fertilizer market; an adequate mechanism for the diffusion of the practice of fertilizer use to the farmer. (3) The extension work, which has caused a permanent change in the aptitude towards fertilization, was carried out in the traditional way by salesmen supported by a technical staff, as well as by agronomists of the official services. (4) Two new programs were started and conducted in a rather short time, both putting emphasis on the relatively new technology of fertilizer use. (5) The first program, conducted in the Southern part of the country, extended lab and green house work supplemented by a few field trials to small land owners - the so called "operação tatú" (operation armadillo). (6) The seconde program, covering a larger problem area in the Northeast and in Central Brazil, began directly in field as thousands of demonstrations and simple experiments with the participation of local people whose involvement was essential for the success of the initiative; in this case the official extension services, both foreign and national sources of funds, and universities did participate under the leadership of the Brazilian Association for the Diffusion of Fertilizers (ANDA). (7) It is felt that the Brazilian experience gained thereof could be useful to other countries under similar conditions.

Assessing the structural change of strategic mobility: determinants under hypercompetitive environments

The primary purpose of this exploratory empirical study is to examine the structural stability of a limited number of alternative explanatory factors of strategic change. On the basis of theoretical arguments and prior empirical evidence from two traditional perspectives, we propose an original empirical framework to analyse whether these potential explanatory factors have remained stable over time in a highly turbulent environment. This original question is explored in a particular setting: the population of Spanish private banks. The firms of this industry have experienced a high level of strategic mobility as a consequence of fundamental changes undergone in their environmental conditions over the last two decades (mainly changes related to the new banking and financial regulation process). Our results consistently support that the effect of most explanatory factors of strategic mobility considered did not remain stable over the whole period of analysis. From this point of view, the study sheds new light on major debates and dilemmas in the field of strategy regarding why firms change their competitive patterns over time and, hence, to what extent the "contextdependency" of alternative views of strategic change as their relative validation can vary over time for a given population. Methodologically, this research makes two major contributions to the study of potential determinants of strategic change. First, the definition and measurement of strategic change employing a new grouping method, the Model-based Cluster Method or MCLUST. Second, in order to asses the possible effect of determinants of strategic mobility we have controlled the non-observable heterogeneity using logistic regression models for panel data.