Atoll lagoon flushing forced by waves

Water level and current measurements from two virtually enclosed South Pacific atolls, Manihiki and Rakahanga, support a new lagoon flushing mechanism which is driven by waves and modulated by the ocean tide for virtually enclosed atolls. This is evident because the lagoon water level remains above the ocean at all tidal phases (i.e., ruling out tidal flushing) and because the average lagoon water level rises significantly during periods with large waves. Hence, we develop a model by which the lagoons are flushed by waves pumping of ocean water into the lagoon and gravity draining water from the lagoon over the reef rim. That is, the waves on the exposed side push water into the lagoon during most of the tidal cycle while water leaves the lagoon on the protected side for most of the tidal cycle. This wave-driven through flow flushing is shown to be more efficient than alternating tidal flushing with respect to water renewal. Improved water quality should therefore be sought through enhancement of the natural wave pumping rather than by blasting deep channels which would change the system to an alternating tide-driven one.

(Table S1) Stable carbon and oxygen isotope ratios of benthic foraminifera of the western Atlantic Ocean

Oxygen and carbon isotopic data were produced on the benthic foraminiferal taxa Cibicidoides and Planulina from 25 new piston cores, gravity cores, and multicores from the Brazil margin. The cores span water depths from about 400 to 3000 m and intersect the major water masses in this region. These new data fill a critical gap in the South Atlantic Ocean and provide the motivation for updating the classic glacial western Atlantic d13C transect of Duplessy et al. (1988). The distribution of 13C of SumCO2 requires the presence of three distinct water masses in the glacial Atlantic Ocean: a shallow (~1000 m), southern source water mass with an end-member d13C value of about 0.3-0.5 per mil VPDB, a middepth (~1500 m), northern source water mass with an end-member value of about 1.5 per mil, and a deep (>2000 m), southern source water with an end-member value of less than -0.2 per mil, and perhaps as low as the -0.9 per mil values observed in the South Atlantic sector of the Southern Ocean (Ninnemann and Charles, 2002, doi:10.1016/S0012-821X(02)00708-2). The origins of the water masses are supported by the meridional gradients in benthic foraminiferal d18O. A revised glacial section of deep water d13C documents the positions and gradients among these end-member intermediate and deep water masses. The large property gradients in the presence of strong vertical mixing can only be maintained by a vigorous overturning circulation.

Productivity- and ocean circulation changes in the sub-Antarctic Atlantic during the last deglaciation and Marine Isotope Stage 3

Millennial-scale climate changes during the last glacial period and deglaciation were accompanied by rapid changes in atmospheric CO2 that remain unexplained. While the role of the Southern Ocean as a 'control valve' on ocean-atmosphere CO2 exchange has been emphasized, the exact nature of this role, in particular the relative contributions of physical (for example, ocean dynamics and air-sea gas exchange) versus biological processes (for example, export productivity), remains poorly constrained. Here we combine reconstructions of bottom-water [O2], export production and 14C ventilation ages in the sub-Antarctic Atlantic, and show that atmospheric CO2 pulses during the last glacial- and deglacial periods were consistently accompanied by decreases in the biological export of carbon and increases in deep-ocean ventilation via southern-sourced water masses. These findings demonstrate how the Southern Ocean's 'organic carbon pump' has exerted a tight control on atmospheric CO2, and thus global climate, specifically via a synergy of both physical and biological processes.

Data compilation on the biological response to ocean acidification: environmental and experimental context of data sets and related literature

The exponential growth of studies on the biological response to ocean acidification over the last few decades has generated a large amount of data. To facilitate data comparison, a data compilation hosted at the data publisher PANGAEA was initiated in 2008 and is updated on a regular basis (doi:10.1594/PANGAEA.149999). By January 2015, a total of 581 data sets (over 4 000 000 data points) from 539 papers had been archived. Here we present the developments of this data compilation five years since its first description by Nisumaa et al. (2010). Most of study sites from which data archived are still in the Northern Hemisphere and the number of archived data from studies from the Southern Hemisphere and polar oceans are still relatively low. Data from 60 studies that investigated the response of a mix of organisms or natural communities were all added after 2010, indicating a welcomed shift from the study of individual organisms to communities and ecosystems. The initial imbalance of considerably more data archived on calcification and primary production than on other processes has improved. There is also a clear tendency towards more data archived from multifactorial studies after 2010. For easier and more effective access to ocean acidification data, the ocean acidification community is strongly encouraged to contribute to the data archiving effort, and help develop standard vocabularies describing the variables and define best practices for archiving ocean acidification data.

Coastal geomorphology, processes and erosion at the tourist destination of Ferryland, Newfoundland and Labrador

The community of Ferryland is located on the southeastern coast of the Avalon Peninsula. The town traditionally relied on a fishing-based economy until the collapse of the fishery in the early 1990s. The present economy emphasizes sustainable development in the tourism sector with focus on archaeology, geotourism and other recreational uses. This paper discusses coastal erosion and impacts on sites and infrastructure using methods including: local knowledge, Real Time Kinematic (RTK) surveying and other survey techniques, seawater level measurement, meteorological data from a locally-installed station, custom-made drifter tube buoys, photography, HD video, and investigation using various modes of transport including inflatable boat. The major findings of the study include that the residents and stakeholders are genuinely interested in and knowledgeable of coastal erosion. The causes of coastal erosion include: large waves, surge, longshore currents, harbour oscillations, mass wasting, and location of infrastructure causing alterations of these processes. Freeze-thaw Cycles (FTC), rainfall, and gravity loosen and transport rock, till, and fill materials downslope. Large waves and currents transport the materials alongshore or into the nearshore. Harbour oscillations causing high velocity currents (> 2 m/s) are responsible for shoreline erosion and damage to property in The Pool. Historical resources such as gun batteries and ordnance pieces which date to the 1700s are being lost or threatened through coastal erosion of till and rock cliffs. Improper drainage and maintenance is responsible for erosion of roads and supporting shoulders, necessitating mitigation measures. Sediment transport and deposition during and after large wave and surge events lead to undercutting of infrastructure and increased risk of washover of existing infrastructure. Erosion is ongoing at Bois Island and Ferryland Head Isthmus through slope processes and undercutting; The Pool and the lower Colony of Avalon site through harbour oscillations and related undermining; the tombolo and the main breakwater through wave attack; and Meade’s Cove including the East Coast Trail through wave attack and undercutting. The floor of the latrine in the lower Colony of Avalon site indicates that sea level was approximately 1.25m below present in the 1620s, a relative sea level rise rate of 3.2 mm/y. The recommendations include suggested mitigation to reduce impacts specific to each site.

(Table 1, Page 1046-1047) Chemical composition of iron-manganese concretions from the Indian Ocean recovered by the R/V Vityaz and the R/V Ob

The data given in this and previous communications is insufficient to assess the quantitative role of these supplementary sources in the Indian Ocean, but they do not rule out their local significance. Elucidation of this problem requires further data on the characteristics of the composition and structure of nodules in various different metallogenic regions of the ocean floor. A study of the distribution of ore elements in nodules both depthwise and over the area of the floor together with compilation of the first schematic maps based on the results of analyses of samples from 54 stations) enables us to give a more precise empirical relation between the Mn, Fe, Ni, Cu, and Co contents in Indian Ocean nodules, the manganese ratio and the values of the oxidation potential, which vary regularly with depth. This in turn also enables us to confirm that formation of nodules completes the prolonged process of deposition of ore components from ocean waters, and the complex physico-chemical transformations of sediments in the bottom layer. Microprobe investigation of ore rinds revealed the nonuniform distribution of a num¬ber of elements within them, owing to the capacity of particles of hydrated oxides of manganese and iron to adsorb various elements. High concentration of individual elements is correlated with local sectors of the ore rinds, in which the presence of todorokite, in particular, has been noted. The appearance of this mineral apparently requires elevated Ca, Mg, Na, and K concentrations, because the stable crystalline phase of this specific mineral form of the psilomelane group may be formed when these cations are incorporated into a lattice of the delta-MnO2 type.

The Hurst exponent as an indicator of the behaviour of a model monopile in an ocean wave testing basin

With the importance of renewable energy well-established worldwide, and targets of such energy quantified in many cases, there exists a considerable interest in the assessment of wind and wave devices. While the individual components of these devices are often relatively well understood and the aspects of energy generation well researched, there seems to be a gap in the understanding of these devices as a whole and especially in the field of their dynamic responses under operational conditions. The mathematical modelling and estimation of their dynamic responses are more evolved but research directed towards testing of these devices still requires significant attention. Model-free indicators of the dynamic responses of these devices are important since it reflects the as-deployed behaviour of the devices when the exposure conditions are scaled reasonably correctly, along with the structural dimensions. This paper demonstrates how the Hurst exponent of the dynamic responses of a monopile exposed to different exposure conditions in an ocean wave basin can be used as a model-free indicator of various responses. The scaled model is exposed to Froude scaled waves and tested under different exposure conditions. The analysis and interpretation is carried out in a model-free and output-only environment, with only some preliminary ideas regarding the input of the system. The analysis indicates how the Hurst exponent can be an interesting descriptor to compare and contrast various scenarios of dynamic response conditions.

Food selectivity and processing by the cold-water coral Lophelia pertusa

Cold-water corals form prominent reef ecosystems along ocean margins that depend on suspended resources produced in surface waters. In this study, we investigated food processing of 13C and 15N labelled bacteria and algae by the cold-water coral Lophelia pertusa. Coral respiration, tissue incorporation of C and N and metabolic-derived C incorporation into the skeleton were traced following the additions of different food concentrations (100, 300, 1300 µg C/l) and two ratios of suspended bacterial and algal biomass (1:1, 3:1). Respiration and tissue incorporation by L. pertusa increased markedly following exposure to higher food concentrations. The net growth efficiency of L. pertusa was low (0.08±0.03), which is consistent with their slow growth rates. The contribution of algae and bacteria to total coral assimilation was proportional to the food mixture in the two lowest food concentrations, but algae were preferred over bacteria as food source at the highest food concentration. Similarly, the stoichiometric uptake of C and N was coupled in the low and medium food treatment, but was uncoupled in the high food treatment and indicated a comparatively higher uptake or retention of bacterial carbon as compared to algal nitrogen. We argue that behavioural responses for these small-sized food particles, such as tentacle behaviour, mucus trapping and physiological processing, are more likely to explain the observed food selectivity as compared to physical-mechanical considerations. A comparison of the experimental food conditions to natural organic carbon concentrations above CWC reefs suggests that L. pertusa is well adapted to exploit temporal pulses of high organic matter concentrations in the bottom water caused by internal waves and down-welling events.

Late Cenozoic stable isotope record of benthic and planktonic foraminifera from the Pacific Ocean

Stable isotopic analyses of Middle Miocene to Quaternary foraminiferal calcite from east equatorial and central north Pacific DSDP cores have provided much new informatlon on the paleoceanography of the Pacific Neogene The history of delta18O change in planktonic foraminifera reflects the changing Isotopic composition and temperature of seawater at the time of test formation. Changes in the isotopic composition of benthonic foraminifera largely reflect changes m the volume of continental ice. Isotopic data from these cores indicates the following sequence of events related to continental glaciation (1) A permanent Antarctic ice sheet developed late in the Middle Miocene (about 13 to 11.5 m.y. ago) (2) The Late Miocene (about 11.5 to 5 m.y. ago) is marked by significant variation in delta18O of about 0.5? throughout, indicating instability of Antarctic ice cap size or bottom-water temperatures (3) The early Pliocene (5 to about 3 m.y. ago) was a time of relative stability in ice volume and bottom-water temperature (4) Growth of permanent Northern Hemisphere ice sheets is referred to have begun about 3 m.y. ago (5) The late Pliocene (3 to about 1.8 m.y. ago) is marked by one major glaciation or bottom-water cooling dated between about 2.1 to 2.3 m.y. (6) There is some evidence that the frequency of glacial-interglacial cycles increased at about 0.9 m.y. There is significant variation in delta13C at these sites but no geochemical interpretation is offered in this paper. The most outstanding feature of delta13C results is a permanent shift of about -0.8? found at about 6.5 m.y. in east equatorial and central north Pacific benthonic foraminifera. This benthonic carbon shift may form a useful marker in deep-sea cores recovering Late Miocene carbonates.

Surface wave and storm surge prediction during Hurricane Sandy

Hurricane Sandy was the largest storm on historical record in the Atlantic Ocean basin with extensive coastal damage caused by large waves and high storm surge. The primary objectives of this thesis are to compare and evaluate three different spatially-varying surface wind fields of Hurricane Sandy to investigate the impact of the differences between the complex wind fields on predictions of the sea surface evolution, and to evaluate the impact of the storm on the hydrodynamics in Great South Bay (GSB) and the discharge of ocean water into the back-barrier bay from overwash over Fire Island. Three different spatially-varying surface wind fields were evaluated and compared to wind observations, including the parametric Holland (1980) model (H80), the parametric Generalized Asymmetric Holland Model (GAHM), and results from the WeatherFlow Regional Atmospheric Modelling System (WRAMS). The winds were used to drive the coupled Delft3D-SWAN hydrodynamic and ocean wave models on a regional grid. The results indicate that the WRAMS wind field produces wave model predictions in the best agreement with significant wave height observations, followed by the GAHM and H80 wind fields and that a regional atmospheric wind model is best for hindcasting hurricane waves and water levels when detailed observations are available, while a parametric vortex model is best for forecasting hurricane sea surface conditions. Using a series of four connected Delft3D-SWAN grids to achieve finer resolution over Fire Island and GSB, a higher resolution WRAMS was used to predict waves and storm surge. The results indicate that strong local winds have the largest influence on water level fluctuations in GSB. Three numerical solutions were conducted with varying extents of barrier island overwash. The simulations allowing for minor and major overwash indicated good agreement with observations in the east end of GSB and suggest that island overwash provided a significant contribution of ocean water to GSB during the storm. Limiting the overwash in the numerical model directly impacts the total discharge into GSB from the ocean through existing inlets. The results of this study indicate that barrier island overwash had a significant impact on the water levels in eastern GSB.

Airborne remote sensing of ocean wave directional wavenumber spectra in the marginal ice zone

Interactions between surface waves and sea ice are thought to be an important, but poorly understood, physical process in the atmosphere-ice-ocean system. In this work, airborne scanning lidar was used to observe ocean waves propagating into the marginal ice zone (MIZ). These represent the first direct spatial measurements of the surface wave field in the polar MIZ. Data were compared against two attenuation models, one based on viscous dissipation and one based on scattering. Both models were capable of reproducing the measured wave energy. The observed wavenumber dependence of attenuation was found to be consistent with viscous processes, while the spectral spreading of higher wavenumbers suggested a scattering mechanism. Both models reproduced a change in peak direction due to preferential directional filtering. Floe sizes were recorded using co-located visible imagery, and their distribution was found to be consistent with ice breakup by the wave field.

Gravitational Waves: completeness and connectedness by geodesics

Only few months ago some physicists gave the official announcement that gravitational waves exist, but, from a geometrical point of view, they have always been ``real objects'' and their properties have been widely investigated. The aim of this talk is introducing generalized plane waves and discussing some of their properties such as geodesic connectedness and geodesic completeness.

Age and growth of the bigeye thresher shark, Alopias superciliosus, from the pelagic longline fisheries in the tropical northeastern Atlantic Ocean, determined by vertebral band counts

The bigeye thresher, Alopias supercilious, is commonly caught as bycatch in pelagic longline fisheries targeting swordfish. Little information is yet available on the biology of this species, however. As part of an ongoing study, observers sent aboard fishing vessels have been collecting set of information that includes samples of vertebrae, with the aim of investigating age and growth of A. supercilious. A total of 117 specimens were sampled between September 2008 and October 2009 in the tropical northeastern Atlantic, with specimens ranging from 101 to 242 cm fork length (FL) (176 to 407 cm total length). The A. supercilious vertebrae were generally difficult to read, mainly because they were poorly calcified, which is typical of Lamniformes sharks. Preliminary trials were carried out to determine the most efficient band enhancement technique for this species, in which crystal violet section staining was found to be the best methodology. Estimated ages in this sample ranged from 2 to 22 years for females and 1 to 17 years for males. A version of the von Bertalanffy growth model (VBGF) re-parameterised to estimate L(0), and a modified VBGF using a fixed L(0) were fitted to the data. The Akaike information criterion (AIC) was used to compare these models. The VBGF produced the best results, with the following parameters: L(inf) = 293 cm FL, k = 0.06 y(-1) and L(0) = 111 cm FL for females; L(inf) = 206 cm FL, k = 0.18 y(-1) and L(0) = 93 cm FL for males. The estimated growth coefficients confirm that A. supercilious is a slow-growing species, highlighting its vulnerability to fishing pressure. It is therefore urgent to carry out more biological research to inform fishery managers more adequately and address conservation issues.

Age and growth of the smooth hammerhead shark, Sphyrna zygaena, in the Eastern Equatorial Atlantic Ocean, using vertebral sections

The smooth hammerhead shark Sphyrna zygaena (Sphyrnidae) is regularly caught as bycatch in pelagic longline fisheries, but is one of the least studied of all pelagic sharks. Recently, ICCAT (International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas) issued recommendations underlining the need for more studies on the life history parameters of this and other pelagic shark species. To this end, the age and growth of S. zygaena were studied in the Eastern Equatorial Atlantic Ocean, in an area where growth parameters were not yet available for this species. Data from 139 specimens, caught between June and September 2009, ranging in size from 136 to 233 cm fork length (FL), were analysed. Preliminary trials were carried out to assess the most efficient growth band enhancement technique. These indicated that sectioning the vertebrae into 500 μm sections followed by staining with crystal violet produced the best results. Growth models were fitted using the traditional von Bertalanffy growth equation and a modification of this equation using a known size at birth. Growth models were compared using the Akaike information criterion (AIC). The von Bertalanffy growth equation seemed to be the most adequate model to describe growth in this species, with resulting growth parameters of L inf = 272 cm FL, k = 0.06 year for males and L inf = 285 cm FL, k = 0.07 year for females. In the first four years of life, S. zygaena grows 25 cm per year on average, but its growth slows down in later life. Future stock assessment models should incorporate these age and growth parameters for species management and conservation.

Composition and characteristics of the ferromanganese crusts from the western Arctic Ocean

Layered ferromanganese crusts collected by dredge from a water depth range of 2770 to 2200 m on Mendeleev Ridge, Arctic Ocean,were analyzed formineralogical and chemical compositions and dated using the excess 230Th technique. Comparison with crusts from other oceans reveals that Fe-Mn deposits of Mendeleev Ridge have the highest Fe/Mn ratios, are depleted inMn, Co, and Ni, and enriched in Si and Al aswell as some minor elements, Li, Th, Sc, As and V. However, the upper layer of the crusts shows Mn, Co, and Ni contents comparable to crusts from the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Growth rates vary from3.03 to 3.97mm/Myr measured on the uppermost 2mm. Mn and Fe oxyhydroxides (vernadite, ferroxyhyte, birnessite, todorokite and goethite) and nonmetalliferous detrital minerals characterize the Arctic crusts. Temporal changes in crust composition reflect changes in the depositional environment. Crust formation was dominated by three main processes: precipitation of Fe-Mn oxyhydroxides from ambient ocean water, sorption of metals by those Fe and Mn phases, and fluctuating but large inputs of terrigenous debris.