Planetary-wave-induced transport in the stratosphere

In the stratosphere, chemical tracers are drawn systematically from the equator to the pole. This observed Brewer–Dobson circulation is driven by wave drag, which in the stratosphere arises mainly from the breaking and dissipation of planetary-scale Rossby waves. While the overall sense of the circulation follows from fundamental physical principles, a quantitative theoretical understanding of the connection between wave drag and Lagrangian transport is limited to linear, small-amplitude waves. However, planetary waves in the stratosphere generally grow to a large amplitude and break in a strongly nonlinear fashion. This paper addresses the connection between stratospheric wave drag and Lagrangian transport in the presence of strong nonlinearity, using a mechanistic three-dimensional primitive equations model together with offline particle advection. Attention is deliberately focused on a weak forcing regime, such that sudden warmings do not occur and a quasi-steady state is reached, in order to examine this question in the cleanest possible context. Wave drag is directly linked to the transformed Eulerian mean (TEM) circulation, which is often used as a surrogate for mean Lagrangian motion. The results show that the correspondence between the TEM and mean Lagrangian velocities is quantitatively excellent in regions of linear, nonbreaking waves (i.e., outside the surf zone), where streamlines are not closed. Within the surf zone, where streamlines are closed and meridional particle displacements are large, the agreement between the vertical components of the two velocity fields is still remarkably good, especially wherever particle paths are coherent so that diabatic dispersion is minimized. However, in this region the meridional mean Lagrangian velocity bears little relation to the meridional TEM velocity, and reflects more the kinematics of mixing within and across the edges of the surf zone. The results from the mechanistic model are compared with those from the Canadian Middle Atmosphere Model to test the robustness of the conclusions.

A closer look at chaotic advection in the stratosphere: part I: geometric structure

The relevance of chaotic advection to stratospheric mixing and transport is addressed in the context of (i) a numerical model of forced shallow-water flow on the sphere, and (ii) a middle-atmosphere general circulation model. It is argued that chaotic advection applies to both these models if there is suitable large-scale spatial structure in the velocity field and if the velocity field is temporally quasi-regular. This spatial structure is manifested in the form of “cat’s eyes” in the surf zone, such as are commonly seen in numerical simulations of Rossby wave critical layers; by analogy with the heteroclinic structure of a temporally aperiodic chaotic system the cat’s eyes may be thought of as an “organizing structure” for mixing and transport in the surf zone. When this organizing structure exists, Eulerian and Lagrangian autocorrelations of the velocity derivatives indicate that velocity derivatives decorrelate more rapidly along particle trajectories than at fixed spatial locations (i.e., the velocity field is temporally quasi-regular). This phenomenon is referred to as Lagrangian random strain.

Changes in phytoplankton composition in response to tides, wind-induced mixing conditions, and freshwater outflows in an urbanised estuarine complex

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Variação temporal do fitoplâncton e dos parâmetros hidrológicos da zona de arrebentação da Ilha Canela (Bragança, Pará, Brasil)

As variações sazonal e nictemeral do fitoplâncton e dos parâmetros hidrológicos foram estudadas em uma estação fixa (00º46'37.2"S-046º43'24.5"W) localizada na Ilha Canela (Bragança-Pará) em setembro e dezembro de 2004 e março e junho de 2005. Amostras subsuperficiais de água foram coletadas para os estudos qualitativos, quantitativos e para a determinação das concentrações de clorofila a. Simultaneamente, foram medidos os parâmetros físico-químicos da água: salinidade, temperatura, pH, oxigênio dissolvido e percentual de saturação. Foram identificados 64 táxons entre Cyanophyta (um táxon), Bacillariophyta (54 táxons) e Dinophyta (nove táxons). A concentração de clorofila a variou de 4,67 mg m^-3 (período seco) a 5,44 mg m^-3 (período chuvoso) e acompanhou a densidade fitoplanctônica, que foi mais elevada durante o período chuvoso (média=1.870 x 10³ cél L^-1). Os fitoflagelados dominaram quantitativamente o fitoplâncton local, seguidos pelas diatomáceas. Dimeregramma minor e Skeletonema sp. constituíram espécies muito freqüentes e muito abundantes. A ressuspensão de sedimentos provocadas pelos intensos ventos e a arrebentação das ondas favoreceram a dominância de D. minor durante o período seco. No período chuvoso, a elevada pluviometria, os moderados ventos, bem como a influência das águas estuarinas do Taperaçu e Caeté, propiciaram a redução da salinidade e o desenvolvimento de outras espécies fitoplanctônicas.

Microfitoplâncton de águas costeiras amazônicas: Ilha Canela (Bragança, PA, Brasil)

Variações sazonal e nictemeral do microfitoplâncton foram estudadas em uma estação fixa (00º46'37,2''S-046º43'24,5''W), localizada em uma área costeira próxima à ilha Canela (Norte do Brasil), durante os meses de setembro e dezembro/2004 (período seco) e março e junho/2005 (período chuvoso). As amostras destinadas à análise qualitativa do fitoplâncton foram obtidas a partir da filtragem de 400 L de água, através de uma rede planctônica (65 μm de abertura de malha), durante marés de sizígia, em intervalos regulares de três horas, por um período de 24 horas. O material coletado foi fixado com formol neutro a 4%. Paralelamente a essas coletas foi medida a salinidade da superfície da água. A salinidade apresentou variação significativa ao longo do período de estudo, variando entre 26,1 (junho/2005) e 39,0 (dezembro/2004), caracterizando o ambiente como eualino-polialino. Foram identificados 130 táxons incluídos nas divisões Cyanophyta (dois táxons), Bacillariophyta (115 táxons) e Dinophyta (13 táxons). As diatomáceas dominaram o microfitoplâncton da área, sendo Asterionellopsis glacialis, Dimeregramma minor, Skeletonema sp. e Thalassiosira subtilis os táxons mais freqüentes e abundantes. Os altos valores de salinidade condicionaram a maior representatividade das espécies marinhas neríticas, polialóbias. Os processos de ressuspensão provocados pelos ventos e arrebentação das ondas promoveram intercâmbios entre as populações planctônicas e ticoplanctônicas, dentre as quais as espécies Dimeregramma minor, Triceratium biquadratum e T. pentacrinus representaram novas ocorrências para as águas costeiras do litoral amazônico.

Caracterização quali-quantitativa do fitoplâncton da zona de arrebentação de uma praia amazônica

A estrutura da comunidade fitoplanctônica da praia da Princesa (Ilha de Maiandeua) foi estudada durante um ciclo nictemeral nos meses de novembro/08, março/09, junho/09 e setembro/09, de modo a verificar os efeitos de algumas variáveis ambientais sobre esta comunidade. O microfitoplâncton da praia da Princesa esteve representado por 98 táxons, com predomínio das diatomáceas, seguidas dos dinoflagelados e cianofíceas. Nas amostras qualitativas, Coscinodiscus perforatus Ehrenberg se destacou como abundante nos meses de março (45,6%) e junho (45,1%), enquanto que a análise quantitativa revelou Dimeregramma minor (Gregory) Ralfs como dominante, principalmente, em novembro (82,0%) e setembro (83,0%). A biomassa fitoplanctônica (clorofila-a) foi significativamente mais elevada em março (U= 0,0; p<0,05). Os valores médios de densidade fitoplanctônica total foram significativamente mais elevados no período chuvoso (F= 6,2; p<0,05), principalmente em junho (1223 ± 110 x 103 céls L-1). As curvas de K-dominância revelaram um declínio gradual na diversidade ao longo do período seco. A análise de ordenação (MDS) evidenciou a formação de três grupos, enquanto que a análise de componentes principais (PCA) mostrou a salinidade e a turbidez como as principais variáveis que definiram os componentes. A praia da Princesa é um ambiente dinâmico, onde os processos de ressuspensão promovem o intercâmbio entre populações fitoplanctônicas e fitobênticas. A elevada precipitação e o maior aporte fluvial, carreando elevadas concentrações de nutrientes, favoreceram o maior desenvolvimento do fitoplâncton, principalmente, durante o período chuvoso.

Changes in phytoplankton composition in response to tides, wind-induced mixing conditions, and freshwater outflows in an urbanised estuarine complex

Recent reports have shown an increase in potentially harmful phytoplankton in Santos bay (Southeastern Brazilian Coast), located in a highly urbanised estuarine complex. Prediction of blooms is, thus, essential but the phytoplankton community structure in very dynamic regions is difficult to determine. In the present work, we discriminate bloom forming microphytoplankton dominance and their relationship to physical and meteorological variables to look for patterns observed in different tides and seasons. Comparing 8 distinct situations, we found five scenarios of dominance that could be related to winds, tides and rainfall: i) Surfers, diatoms occurring during high surf zone energies; ii) Sinkers, represented by larger celled diatoms during spring tide, after periods of high precipitation rates; iii) Opportunistic mixers, composed of chain forming diatoms with small or elongate cells occurring during neap tides; iv) Local mixers, microplanktonic diatoms and dinoflagellates which occurred throughout the 298 sampling stations; and v) Mixotrophic dinoflagellates, after intense estuarine discharges. Results suggest alterations in the temporal patterns for some bloom-forming species, while others appeared in abundances above safe limits for public health. This approach can also illustrate possible impacts of changes in freshwater discharge in highly urbanised estuaries.

Artificial Surfing Reefs per la difesa e riqualificazione della costa: ipotesi progettuale a Cattolica (RN)

Un artificial surfing reef (di seguito ASR) è un’importante opera che ha come obiettivo principe la riproduzione di onde e correnti ideali per eseguire il surf. Com’è noto, questo spettacolare sport si basa sul processo di frangimento delle onde che si propagano a riva. Ciò nonostante gli ASR possono servire come opere di difesa dall’erosione della spiaggia essendo in grado di smorzare sulla loro cresta l’energia ondosa. In questo lavoro di tesi si andrà ad analizzare quali parametri sono necessari per rendere uno paraggio fruibile dai surfers assieme ad una disamina degli effetti che un ASR può ingenerare sull’idrodinamica della costa, oltre a definire compiutamente i criteri di progettazione di un reef artificiale, basandoci su studi pregressi di progettisti e su evidenze sperimentali condotte su modelli fisici. Applicheremo tali criteri progettuali ad un caso pratico sulle coste emiliano - romagnole, nella provincia di Rimini laddove il fiume Conca sfocia in Adriatico. Ci baseremo su una progettazione di massima dell’ASR ed infine, anche sulla base di una sommaria analisi dei costi, valuteremo quale alternativa meglio si addica allo stato della costa e del litorale della regione.

An environmental magnetic study, sedimentological and numerical methods around Tauranga Harbour, New Zealand

Magnetic iron minerals are widespread and indicative sediment constituents in estuarine, coastal and shelf systems. We combine environmental magnetic, sedimentological and numerical methods to identify magnetite-enriched placer-like zones in a complex coastal system and delineate their formation mechanisms. Magnetic susceptibility and remanence measurements on 245 surficial sediment samples collected in and around Tauranga Harbour, the largest barrier-enclosed tidal estuary of New Zealand, reveal several discrete enrichment zones controlled by local hydrodynamic conditions. Active magnetite enrichment takes place in tidal channels, which feed into two coast-parallel nearshore magnetite-enriched belts centered at water depths of 6-10 m and 10-20 m. A close correlation between magnetite content and magnetic grain size was found, where higher susceptibility values are associated within coarser magnetic crystal sizes. Two key mechanisms for magnetite enrichment are identified. First, tide-induced residual currents primarily enable magnetite enrichment within the estuarine channel network. A coast-parallel, fine sand magnetite enrichment belt in water depths of less than 10 m along the barrier island has a strong decrease in magnetite content away from the southern tidal inlet and is apparently related to active coast-parallel transport combined with mobilizing surf zone processes. A second, less pronounced, but more uniform magnetite enrichment belt at 10-20 m water depth is composed of non-mobile, medium-coarse-grained relict sands, which have been reworked during post-glacial sea level transgression. We demonstrate the potential of magnetic methods to reveal and differentiate coastal magnetite enrichment patterns and investigate their formative mechanisms.

Direct estimation wave setup as a medium level in swash

The extreme runup is a key parameter for a shore risk analysis in which the accurate and quantitative estimation of the upper limit reached by waves is essential. Runup can be better approximated by splitting the setup and swash semi-amplitude contributions. In an experimental study recording setup becomes difficult due to infragravity motions within the surf zone, hence, it would be desirable to measure the setup with available methodologies and devices. In this research, an analysis is made of evaluated the convenience of direct estimation setup as the medium level in the swash zone for experimental runup analysis through a physical model. A physical mobile bed model was setup in a wave flume at the Laboratory for Maritime Experimentation of CEDEX. The wave flume is 36 metres long, 6.5 metres wide and 1.3 metres high. The physical model was designed to cover a reasonable range of parameters, three different slopes (1/50, 1/30 and 1/20), two sand grain sizes (D50 = 0.12 mm and 0.70 mm) and a range for the Iribarren number in deep water (ξ0) from 0.1 to 0.6. Best formulations were chosen for estimating a theoretical setup in the physical model application. Once theoretical setup had been obtained, a comparison was made with an estimation of the setup directly as a medium level of the oscillation in swash usually considered in extreme runup analyses. A good correlation was noted between both theoretical and time-averaging setup and a relation is proposed. Extreme runup is analysed through the sum of setup and semi-amplitude of swash. An equation is proposed that could be applied in strong foreshore slope-dependent reflective beaches.

Appropiate locations for geotextile bag revetments: an analysis

Social pressure exerted by urban development, the increase in erosion on many coastal stretches, and the rise in sea level due to climate change over the last few decades have led governments to increase investment in coastal protection. In turn, a reduction in costs and increases in ease of construction and rate of implementation have led to sand-filled geotextile elements, such as bags, tubes, and containers, becoming an alternative or supplement to traditional coastal defence materials, such as rubble mounds, concrete, and so on. Not all coastal zones are appropriate for sand-filled geotextile structures as coastal defences. This article analyses suitable zones for locating geotextile bag revetments to protect coasts from storm erosion and concludes that the least suitable zones are the surf zone (on an open coast and on a slightly protected coast) and deep water (on an open coast), except if a suitable reinforcement is carried out when the demand makes it necessary this build this kind of defence.

Strong natural selection causes microscale allozyme variation in a marine snail.

Natural selection is one of the most fundamental processes in biology. However, there is still a controversy over the importance of selection in microevolution of molecular traits. Despite the general lack of data most authors hold the view that selection on molecular characters may be important, but at lower rates than selection on most phenotypic traits. Here we present evidence that natural selection may contribute substantially to molecular variation on a scale of meters only. In populations of the marine snail Littorina saxatilis living on exposed rocky shores, steep microclines in allele frequencies between splash and surf zone groups are present in the enzyme aspartate aminotransferase (allozyme locus Aat; EC. 2.6.1.1). We followed one population over 7 years, including a period of strong natural perturbation. The surf zone part of the population dominated by the allele Aat100 was suddenly eliminated by a bloom of a toxin-producing microflagellate. Downshore migration of splash zone snails with predominantly Aat120 alleles resulted in a drastic increase in surf zone frequency of Aat120, from 0.4 to 0.8 over 2 years. Over the next four to six generations, however, the frequency of Aat120 returned to the original value. We estimated the coefficient of selection of Aat120 in the surf zone to be about 0.4. Earlier studies show similar or even sharper Aat clines in other countries. Thus, we conclude that microclinal selection is an important evolutionary force in this system.

Large scale experiments on gravel and mixed beaches: Experimental procedure, data documentation and initial results

This paper provides information on the experimental set-up, data collection methods and results to date for the project Large scale modelling of coarse grained beaches, undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) of FZK in Hannover by an international group of researchers in Spring 2002. The main objective of the experiments was to provide full scale measurements of cross-shore processes on gravel and mixed beaches for the verification and further development of cross-shore numerical models of gravel and mixed sediment beaches. Identical random and regular wave tests were undertaken for a gravel beach and a mixed sand/gravel beach set up in the flume. Measurements included profile development, water surface elevation along the flume, internal pressures in the swash zone, piezometric head levels within the beach, run-up, flow velocities in the surf-zone and sediment size distributions. The purpose of the paper is to present to the scientific community the experimental procedure, a summary of the data collected, some initial results, as well as a brief outline of the on-going research being carried out with the data by different research groups. The experimental data is available to all the scientific community following submission of a statement of objectives, specification of data requirements and an agreement to abide with the GWK and EU protocols. (C) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach

This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, the change in depth across the group leads to asymmetry in the forcing which generates significant dynamic setup in front of the group during shoaling. Strong amplification of the incident dynamic setup occurs after short-wave breaking. The data show the radiation of a transient long wave dominated by a pulse of positive elevation, preceded and followed by weaker trailing waves with negative elevation. The instantaneous cross-shore structure of the long wave shows the mechanics of the reflection process and the formation of a transient node in the inner surf zone. The wave run-up and relative amplitude of the radiated and incident long waves suggests significant modification of the incident bound wave in the inner surf zone and, the dominance of long waves generated by the breaking process. It is proposed that these conditions occur when the primary short waves and bound wave are not shallow water waves at the breakpoint. A simple criterion is given to determine these conditions, which generally occur for the important case of storm waves.

Drifting blooms of the endemic filamentous brown alga Hincksia sordida at Noosa on the subtropical east Australian coast

Since 2002, the usually uncommon endemic filamentous brown alga Hincksia sordida (Harvey) Silva (Ectocarpales, Phaeophyta) has formed nuisance blooms annually during spring/early summer at Main Beach, Noosa on the subtropical east Australian coast. The Hincksia bloom coincides with the normally intensive recreational use of the popular bathing beach by the local population and tourists. The alga forms dense accumulations in the surf zone at Main Beach, giving the seawater a distinct brown coloration and deterring swimmers from entering the water. Decomposing algae stranded by receding tides emit a nauseating sulphurous stench which hangs over the beach. The stranded algal biomass is removed from the beach by bulldozers. During blooms, the usually crowded Main Beach is deserted, bathers preferring to use the many unaffected beaches on the Sunshine Coast to the south of Main Beach. The bloom worsens with north-easterly winds and is cleared from Noosa by south easterly winds, observations which have prompted the untenable proposal by local authorities that the bloom is forming offshore of Fraser Island in the South Pacific Ocean. The Noosa River estuarine system/Laguna Bay is the more probable source of the bloom and the nutrient inputs into this system must be substantial to generate the high bloom biomass. Current mitigation procedures of removing the blooming alga off the beach with bulldozers treat the symptom, not the cause and are proving ineffective. Environmental management must be based on science and the Noosa bloom would benefit greatly from the accurate ecological data on which to base management options. (c) 2006 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.