The life-cycle of the fashion garment and the role of Australian mass market designers

This paper uses the lens of life-cycle thinking to discuss recent developments in the Australian mass market fashion industry, and to explore the opportunities and barriers to implementing lifecycle thinking within mass market design processes. Life-cycle analysis is a quantitative tool used to assess the environmental impact of a material or product. However the underlying thinking of life-cycle analysis can also be employed more generally, enabling a designer to assess their processes and design decisions for sustainability. A fashion designer employing life cycle thinking would consider every stage in the life of a garment from fibre and textiles through to consumer use, to eventual disposal and beyond disposal to reuse and later disassembly for fibre recycling. Although life-cycle thinking is rarely considered in the design processes of the fast-paced, price-driven mass market, this paper explores its potential and suggests ways in which it could be implemented.

Silylation of mechanically ground kaolinite

Silylated kaolinites were synthesized at 80°C without the use of inert gas protection. The method presented started with mechanical grinding of kaolinite, followed by grafting with 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES). The mechanical grinding treatment destroyed the ordered sheets of kaolinite, formed fine fragments and generated broken bonds (undercoordinated metal ions). These broken bonds served as new sites for the condensation with APTES. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) confirmed the existence of –CH2 from APTES. 29Si cross-polarization magic-angle spinning nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (29Si CP/MAS NMR) showed that the principal bonding mechanism between APTES and kaolinite fitted a tridentate silylation model (T3) with a chemical shift at 66.7 ppm. The silane loadings of the silylated samples were estimated from the mass loss obtained by TG-DTG curves. The results showed that the 6-hour ground kaolinite could be grafted with the most APTES (7.0%) using cyclohexane as solvent. The loaded amount of APTES in the silylated samples obtained in different solvents decreased in the order as: nonpolar solvent > polar solvent with low dielectric constant (toluene) > polar solvent with high dielectric constant (ethanol).

Damage assessment of basaltic rock mass due to repeated blasting in a railway tunnelling project - A case study

The demand for tunnelling and underground space creation is rapidly growing due to the requirement of civil infrastructure projects and urbanisation. Blasting remains the most inexpensive method of underground excavations in hard rock. Unfortunately, there are no specific safety guidelines available for the blasted tunnels with regards to the threshold limits of vibrations caused by repeated blasting activity in the close proximity. This paper presents the results of a comprehensive study conducted to find out the effect of repeated blast loading on the damage experienced by jointed basaltic rock mass during tunnelling works. Conducting of multiple rounds of blasts for various civil excavations in a railway tunnel imparted repeated loading on rock mass of sidewall and roof of the tunnel. The blast induced damage was assessed by using vibration attenuation equations of charge weight scaling law and measured by borehole extensometers and borehole camera. Ground vibrations of each blasting round were also monitored by triaxial geophones installed near the borehole extensometers. The peak particle velocity (V-max) observations and plastic deformations from borehole extensometers were used to develop a site specific damage model. The study reveals that repeated dynamic loading imparted on the exposed tunnel from subsequent blasts, in the vicinity, resulted in rock mass damage at lesser vibration levels than the critical peak particle velocity (V-cr). It was found that, the repeated blast loading resulted in the near-field damage due to high frequency waves and far-field damage due to low frequency waves. The far field damage, after 45-50 occurrences of blast loading, was up to 55% of the near-field damage in basaltic rock mass. The findings of the study clearly indicate that the phenomena of repeated blasting with respect to number of cycles of loading should be taken into consideration for proper assessment of blast induced damage in underground excavations.

The inelastic vibration absorber subjected to earthquake ground motions

Two storey bilinear hysteretic structures have been studied with a view to exploring the possibility of using the dynamic vibration absorber concept in earthquake-resistant design. The response of the lower storey has been optimized for the Taft 1952, S69°E accelerogram with reference to parameters such as frequency ratio, yield strength ratio and mass ratio. The influence of viscous damping has also been examined.

Photosynthesis of ground vegetation in boreal Scots pine forests

Research on carbon uptake in boreal forests has mainly focused on mature trees, even though ground vegetation species are effective assimilators and can substantially contribute to the CO2 uptake of forests. Here, I examine the photosynthesis of the most common species of ground vegetation in a series of differently aged Scots pine stands, and at two clear-cut sites with substantial differences in fertility. In general, the biomass of evergreen species was highest at poor sites and below canopies, whereas grasses and herbs predominated at fertile sites and open areas. Unlike mosses, the measured vascular species showed clear annual cycles in their photosynthetic activity, which increased earlier and decreased later in evergreen vascular species than in deciduous species. However, intraspecific variation and self-shading create differences in the overall level of photosynthesis. Light, temperature history, soil moisture and recent possible frosts could explain the changes in photosynthesis of low shrubs and partially also some changes in deciduous species. Light and the occurrence of rain events explained most of the variation in the photosynthesis of mosses. The photosynthetic production of ground vegetation was first upscaled, using species-specific and mass-based photosynthetic activities and average biomass of the site, and then integrated over the growing season, using changes in environmental factors. Leaf mass-based photosynthesis was highest in deciduous species, resulting in notably higher photosynthetic production at fertile sites than at poor clear-cut sites. The photosynthetic production decreased with stand age, because flora changed towards evergreen species, and light levels diminished below the canopy. In addition, the leaf mass-based photosynthetic activity of some low shrubs declined with the age of the surrounding trees. Different measuring methods led to different momentary rate of photosynthesis. Therefore, the choice of measuring method needs special attention.

Intelligent prediction of ground vibration in coal formations using ANN

The present paper details the prediction of blast induced ground vibration, using artificial neural network. The data was generated from five different coal mines. Twenty one different parameters involving rock mass parameters, explosive parameters and blast design parameters, were used to develop the one comprehensive ANN model for five different coal bearing formations. A total of 131 datasets was used to develop the ANN model and 44 datasets was used to test the model. The developed ANN model was compared with the USBM model. The prediction capability to predict blast induced ground vibration, of the comprehensive ANN model was found to be superior.

Seismic Bearing Capacity of Shallow Embedded Foundations on a Sloping Ground Surface

By using the lower-bound theorem of the limit analysis in conjunction with finite elements and nonlinear optimization, bearing-capacity factors, N-c and N-gamma q, with an inclusion of pseudostatic horizontal seismic body forces, have been determined for a shallow embedded horizontal strip footing placed on sloping ground surface. The variation of N-c and N-gamma q with changes in slope angle (beta) for different values of seismic acceleration coefficient (k(h)) has been obtained. The analysis reveals that irrespective of ground inclination and the embedment depth of the footing, the factors N-c and N-gamma q decrease quite considerably with an increase in k(h). As compared with N-c, the factor N-gamma q is affected more extensively with changes in k(h) and beta. Unlike most of the results reported in literature for the seismic case, the present computational results take into account the shear resistance of soil mass above the footing level. An increase in the depth of the embedment leads to an increase in the magnitudes of both N-c and N-gamma q. (C) 2014 American Society of Civil Engineers.

Conjugate Model for Heat and Mass Transfer of Porous Wall in the High Temperature Gas Flow

Heat and mass transfer of a porous permeable wall in a high temperature gas dynamical flow is considered. Numerical simulation is conducted on the ground of the conjugate mathematical model which includes filtration and heat transfer equations in a porous body and boundary layer equations on its surface. Such an approach enables one to take into account complex interaction between heat and mass transfer in the gasdynamical flow and in the structure subjected to this flow. The main attention is given to the impact of the intraporous heat transfer intensity on the transpiration cooling efficiency.

Studies of ambient and chamber aerosol composition using the aerosol mass spectrometer

This thesis presents composition measurements for atmospherically relevant inorganic and organic aerosol from laboratory and ambient measurements using the Aerodyne aerosol mass spectrometer. Studies include the oxidation of dodecane in the Caltech environmental chambers, and several aircraft- and ground-based field studies, which include the quantification of wildfire emissions off the coast of California, and Los Angeles urban emissions.

The oxidation of dodecane by OH under low NO conditions and the formation of secondary organic aerosol (SOA) was explored using a gas-phase chemical model, gas-phase CIMS measurements, and high molecular weight ion traces from particle- phase HR-TOF-AMS mass spectra. The combination of these measurements support the hypothesis that particle-phase chemistry leading to peroxyhemiacetal formation is important. Positive matrix factorization (PMF) was applied to the AMS mass spectra which revealed three factors representing a combination of gas-particle partitioning, chemical conversion in the aerosol, and wall deposition.

Airborne measurements of biomass burning emissions from a chaparral fire on the central Californian coast were carried out in November 2009. Physical and chemical changes were reported for smoke ages 0 – 4 h old. CO₂ normalized ammonium, nitrate, and sulfate increased, whereas the normalized OA decreased sharply in the first 1.5 - 2 h, and then slowly increased for the remaining 2 h (net decrease in normalized OA). Comparison to wildfire samples from the Yucatan revealed that factors such as relative humidity, incident UV radiation, age of smoke, and concentration of emissions are important for wildfire evolution.

Ground-based aerosol composition is reported for Pasadena, CA during the summer of 2009. The OA component, which dominated the submicron aerosol mass, was deconvolved into hydrocarbon-like organic aerosol (HOA), semi-volatile oxidized organic aerosol (SVOOA), and low-volatility oxidized organic aerosol (LVOOA). The HOA/OA was only 0.08–0.23, indicating that most of Pasadena OA in the summer months is dominated by oxidized OA resulting from transported emissions that have undergone photochemistry and/or moisture-influenced processing, as apposed to only primary organic aerosol emissions. Airborne measurements and model predictions of aerosol composition are reported for the 2010 CalNex field campaign.

^(18)O/^(16)O and D/H studies on the interactions between heated meteoric ground waters and igneous intrusions: Western San Juan Mountains, Colorado and the Isle of Skye, Scotland

Detailed oxygen, hydrogen and carbon isotope studies have been carried out on igneous and metamorphic rocks of the Stony Mountain complex, Colorado, and the Isle of Skye, Scotland, in order to better understand the problems of hydrothermal meteoric water-rock interaction.

The Tertiary Stony Mountain stock (~1.3 km in diameter), is composed of an outer diorite, a main mass of biotite gabbro, and an inner diorite. The entire complex and most of the surrounding country rocks have experienced various degrees of ¹⁸O depletion (up to 10 per mil) due to interaction with heated meteoric waters. The inner diorite apparently formed from a low-¹⁸O magma with δ¹⁸O ≃ +2.5, but most of the isotopic effects are a result of exchange between H₂O and solidified igneous rocks. The low-¹⁸O inner diorite magma was probably produced by massive assimilation and/or melting of hydrothermally altered country rocks. The δ¹⁸O values of the rocks generally increase with increasing grain size, except that quartz typically has δ¹⁸O = +6 to +8, and is more resistant to hydrothermal exchange than any other mineral studied. Based on atom % oxygen, the outer diorites, gabbros, and volcanic rocks exhibit integrated water/rock ratios of 0.3 ± 0.2, 0.15 ± 0.1, and 0.2 ± 0.1, respectively. Locally, water/rock ratios attain values greater than 1.0. Hydrogen isotopic analyses of sericites, chlorites, biotites, and amphiboles range from -117 to -150. δD in biotites varies inversely with Fe/Fe+Mg, as predicted by Suzuoki and Epstein (1974), and positively with elevation, over a range of 600 m. The calculated δD of the mid-to-late-Tertiary meteoric waters is about -100. Carbonate δ¹³C values average -5.5 (PDB), within the generally accepted range for deep-seated carbon.

Almost all the rocks within 4 km of the central Tertiary intrusive complex of Skye are depleted in ¹⁸O. Whole-rock δ¹⁸O values of basalts (-7. 1 to +8.4), Mesozoic shales (-0.6 to + 12.4), and Precambrian sandstones (-6.2 to + 10.8) systematically decrease inward towards the center of the complex. The Cuillin gabbro may have formed from a ¹⁸O-depleted magma (depleted by about 2 per mil); δ¹⁸O of plagioclase (-7.1 to + 2.5) and pyroxene (-0.5 to + 3.2) decrease outward toward the margins of the pluton. The Red Hills epigranite plutons have δ¹⁸O quartz (-2.7 to + 7.6) and feldspar (-6.7 to + 6.0) that suggest about 3/4 of the exchange took place at subsolidus temperatures; profound disequilibrium quartz-feldspar fractionations (up to 12) are characteristic. The early epigranites were intruded as low-¹⁸O melts (depletions of up to 3 per mil) with δ¹⁸O of the primary, igneous quartz decreasing progressively with time. The Southern Porphyritic Epigranite was apparently intruded as a low-¹⁸O magma with δ¹⁸O ≃ -2.6. A good correlation exists between grain size and δ¹⁸O for the unique, high-¹⁸O Beinn an Dubhaich granite which intrudes limestone having a δ¹⁸O range of +0.5 to +20.8, and δ¹³C of -4.9 to -1.0. The δD values of sericites (-104 to -107), and amphiboles, chlorites, and biotites (-105 to -128) from the igneous rocks , indicate that Eocene surface waters at Skye had δD ≃ -90. The average water/rock ratio for the Skye hydrothermal system is approximately one; at least 2000 km³ of heated meteoric waters were cycled through these rocks.

Thus these detailed isotopic studies of two widely separated areas indicate that (1) ¹⁸O-depleted magmas are commonly produced in volcanic terranes invaded by epizonal intrusions; (2) most of the ¹⁸O-depletion in such areas are a result of subsolidus exchange (particularly of feldspars); however correlation of δ¹⁸O with grain size is generally preserved only for systems that have undergone relatively minor meteoric hydrothermal exchange; (3) feldspar and calcite are the minerals mos t susceptible to oxygen isotopic exchange, whereas quartz is very resistant to oxygen isotope exchange; biotite, magnetite, and pyroxene have intermediate susceptibilities; and (4) basaltic country rocks are much more permeable to the hydrothermal convective system than shale, sandstone, or the crystalline basement complex.

Ground vibration generated by trains in underground tunnels

A popular method used to reduce vibration transmitted from underground railways into nearby buildings is floating-slab track, whereby a concrete slab supporting the two rails is mounted on rubber bearings or steel springs to isolate it from the tunnel invert. This paper adds a track model to a previously developed three-dimensional tunnel model in order to assess the effectiveness of floating-slab track. A slab beam coupled to the tunnel in the wavenumber domain, with the slab bearings represented by an elastic layer, is examined first. A second beam representing the two rails together is then coupled to the slab, and axle masses representing a train are added to the rail beam. Power-spectral densities and RMS levels of soil vibration due to random roughness-displacement excitation between the masses and the rail beam are calculated. Analytical techniques are used to minimise the computational requirements of the model. The results demonstrate the inadequacy of simple mass-spring and Winkler-beam models with rigid foundations for the assessment of the vibration-isolation performance of railway track. They suggest that the achievable insertion loss is modest and that floating the track slab may in fact cause increased transmission of vibration under certain conditions. © 2006 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Influence of ground anchors on topographic amplification at slope crests

One feature of earthquake loading in regions containing sloping ground is a marked increase in accelerations at the crests of slopes. Many field cases exist where such increased accelerations were measured. The observed increase in the amount and severity of observed building damage near the edge of cliff-type topographies has been attributed to the topographic amplification. To counter this, it has been shown that anchoring the soil mass responsible for this to the rest of the stable soil mass can reduce the amount of topographic amplification. In this study, dynamic centrifuge modelling will be used to identify the region affected by topographic amplification in a model slope. The soil accelerations recorded will be compared to those measured in a comparable model treated by anchors. In addition, the tension measured in the anchors will be examined in order to better understand how the anchors are transferring the loads and mitigating these amplifications. © 2010 Taylor & Francis Group, London.

Properties of alpha-decay to ground and excited states of heavy nuclei

Branching ratios and half-lives of alpha-decay to the ground-state rotational bands as well as the high-lying excited states of even-even nuclei have been calculated in the framework of the generalized liquid drop model (GLDM) and Royer's formula that we improved very recently. The calculation covers the isotopic chains from Ra to No in the mass regions 222 <= A <= 252 and 88 <= Z <= 102. The agreement between the calculated results and the experimental data indicates the reliability of investigating the properties of the unfavored alpha-decay with our method, especially the improved Royer's formula, which is very valuable for the analysis of experimental data. In addition, the dependence of half-lives on excitation energies of daughter nuclei has been investigated. It is shown that the influence on half-lives becomes stronger and stronger with the increase of the excitation energies.

Multi-phonon gamma-vibrational bands in odd-mass nuclei studied by triaxial projected shell model approach

Inspired by the recent experimental data [J.-G. Wang, et al., Phys. Lett. B 675 (2009) 420], we extend the triaxial projected shell model approach to study the gamma-band structure in odd-mass nuclei. As a first application of the new development, the gamma-vibrational structure of Nb-103 is investigated. It is demonstrated that the model describes the ground-state band and multi-phonon gamma-vibrations quite satisfactorily, supporting the interpretation of the data as one of the few experimentally-known examples of simultaneous occurrence of one- and two-gamma-phonon vibrational bands. This generalizes the well-known concept of the surface gamma-oscillation in deformed nuclei built on the ground-state in even-even systems to gamma-bands based on quasiparticle configurations in odd-mass systems. (c) 2010 Elsevier BM. All rights reserved.