988 resultados para beach profile evolution


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The progress in microsystem technology or nano technology places extended requirements to the fabrication processes. The trend is moving towards structuring within the nanometer scale on the one hand, and towards fabrication of structures with high aspect ratio (ratio of vertical vs. lateral dimensions) and large depths in the 100 µm scale on the other hand. Current procedures for the microstructuring of silicon are wet chemical etching and dry or plasma etching. A modern plasma etching technique for the structuring of silicon is the so-called "gas chopping" etching technique (also called "time-multiplexed etching"). In this etching technique, passivation cycles, which prevent lateral underetching of sidewalls, and etching cycles, which etch preferably in the vertical direction because of the sidewall passivation, are constantly alternated during the complete etching process. To do this, a CHF3/CH4 plasma, which generates CF monomeres is employed during the passivation cycle, and a SF6/Ar, which generates fluorine radicals and ions plasma is employed during the etching cycle. Depending on the requirements on the etched profile, the durations of the individual passivation and etching cycles are in the range of a few seconds up to several minutes. The profiles achieved with this etching process crucially depend on the flow of reactants, i.e. CF monomeres during the passivation cycle, and ions and fluorine radicals during the etching cycle, to the bottom of the profile, especially for profiles with high aspect ratio. With regard to the predictability of the etching processes, knowledge of the fundamental effects taking place during a gas chopping etching process, and their impact onto the resulting profile is required. For this purpose in the context of this work, a model for the description of the profile evolution of such etching processes is proposed, which considers the reactions (etching or deposition) at the sample surface on a phenomenological basis. Furthermore, the reactant transport inside the etching trench is modelled, based on angular distribution functions and on absorption probabilities at the sidewalls and bottom of the trench. A comparison of the simulated profiles with corresponding experimental profiles reveals that the proposed model reproduces the experimental profiles, if the angular distribution functions and absorption probabilities employed in the model is in agreement with data found in the literature. Therefor the model developed in the context of this work is an adequate description of the effects taking place during a gas chopping plasma etching process.

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The research area is located on the county of Tibau do Sul, in the east coast of Rio Grande do Norte State, about 80km south of the capital Natal. The tourism represents the main income activity and Pipa beach is the most visited beach in the city, annually receives a large influx of domestic and foreign tourists. Some recent studies have reported the occurrence of coastal erosion in this littoral, being the main objective of the research, analyze the existing coastal erosion, through two methodologies, the geoenvironmental mapping and beach morphodynamics. The geoenvironmental mapping was done from oblique aerial photographs and field visits, which sought to carry out first the geomorphological mapping, with the purpose of analyzing features that suggest susceptible areas to erosion, as areas without protection of natural dunes, marine terraces, or sandstones (beach-rocks and ferruginous sandstones), areas with the presence of gullies and stretches where the sea-cliffs were in direct contact with the action of the sea, representing the beginning of the beach profile. In the morphodynamic study sought to carry out the survey of the physical and morphological characteristics, the analysis of sediment grain of the beaches and finally the analysis of the morphodynamic parameters to generate a table of risk to erosion by sector of the beach. The morphodynamic parameters were defined by the methodology proposed by Short (2006), in which considers different patterns of dynamism on beaches with characteristics favorable and unfavorable to erosive profiles. The maps indicated different levels of risk to the segments of the beaches analyzed, suggesting risk to erosion low and low to moderate only in areas north and northwest of the beaches of Madeiro and Curral, and levels of moderate and high risk sectors in the south and southeast of these beaches . The beach of Pipa showed moderate levels of risk and moderate to high at the ends and high risk to erosion in the central portion. The study of the coastal environment, its morphological evolution, and areas with problems of erosion, are of fundamental importance to assist coastal management policies, giving grants for planning activities undertaken in these regions

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The aim of this thesis, included within the THESEUS project, is the development of a mathematical model 2DV two-phase, based on the existing code IH-2VOF developed by the University of Cantabria, able to represent together the overtopping phenomenon and the sediment transport. Several numerical simulations were carried out in order to analyze the flow characteristics on a dike crest. The results show that the seaward/landward slope does not affect the evolution of the flow depth and velocity over the dike crest whereas the most important parameter is the relative submergence. Wave heights decrease and flow velocities increase while waves travel over the crest. In particular, by increasing the submergence, the wave height decay and the increase of the velocity are less marked. Besides, an appropriate curve able to fit the variation of the wave height/velocity over the dike crest were found. Both for the wave height and for the wave velocity different fitting coefficients were determined on the basis of the submergence and of the significant wave height. An equation describing the trend of the dimensionless coefficient c_h for the wave height was derived. These conclusions could be taken into consideration for the design criteria and the upgrade of the structures. In the second part of the thesis, new equations for the representation of the sediment transport in the IH-2VOF model were introduced in order to represent beach erosion while waves run-up and overtop the sea banks during storms. The new model allows to calculate sediment fluxes in the water column together with the sediment concentration. Moreover it is possible to model the bed profile evolution. Different tests were performed under low-intensity regular waves with an homogeneous layer of sand on the bottom of a channel in order to analyze the erosion-deposition patterns and verify the model results.

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El retroceso de las costas acantiladas es un fenómeno muy extendido sobre los litorales rocosos expuestos a la incidencia combinada de los procesos marinos y meteorológicos que se dan en la franja costera. Este fenómeno se revela violentamente como movimientos gravitacionales del terreno esporádicos, pudiendo causar pérdidas materiales y/o humanas. Aunque el conocimiento de estos riesgos de erosión resulta de vital importancia para la correcta gestión de la costa, el desarrollo de modelos predictivos se encuentra limitado desde el punto de vista geomorfológico debido a la complejidad e interacción de los procesos de desarrollo espacio-temporal que tienen lugar en la zona costera. Los modelos de predicción publicados son escasos y con importantes inconvenientes: a) extrapolación, extienden la información de registros históricos; b) empíricos, sobre registros históricos estudian la respuesta al cambio de un parámetro; c) estocásticos, determinan la cadencia y magnitud de los eventos futuros extrapolando las distribuciones de probabilidad extraídas de catálogos históricos; d) proceso-respuesta, de estabilidad y propagación del error inexplorada; e) en Ecuaciones en Derivadas Parciales, computacionalmente costosos y poco exactos. La primera parte de esta tesis detalla las principales características de los modelos más recientes de cada tipo y, para los más habitualmente utilizados, se indican sus rangos de aplicación, ventajas e inconvenientes. Finalmente como síntesis de los procesos más relevantes que contemplan los modelos revisados, se presenta un diagrama conceptual de la recesión costera, donde se recogen los procesos más influyentes que deben ser tenidos en cuenta, a la hora de utilizar o crear un modelo de recesión costera con el objetivo de evaluar la peligrosidad (tiempo/frecuencia) del fenómeno a medio-corto plazo. En esta tesis se desarrolla un modelo de proceso-respuesta de retroceso de acantilados costeros que incorpora el comportamiento geomecánico de materiales cuya resistencia a compresión no supere los 5 MPa. El modelo simula la evolución espaciotemporal de un perfil-2D del acantilado que puede estar formado por materiales heterogéneos. Para ello, se acoplan la dinámica marina: nivel medio del mar, cambios en el nivel medio del lago, mareas y oleaje; con la evolución del terreno: erosión, desprendimiento rocoso y formación de talud de derrubios. El modelo en sus diferentes variantes es capaz de incluir el análisis de la estabilidad geomecánica de los materiales, el efecto de los derrubios presentes al pie del acantilado, el efecto del agua subterránea, la playa, el run-up, cambios en el nivel medio del mar o cambios (estacionales o interanuales) en el nivel medio de la masa de agua (lagos). Se ha estudiado el error de discretización del modelo y su propagación en el tiempo a partir de las soluciones exactas para los dos primeros periodos de marea para diferentes aproximaciones numéricas tanto en tiempo como en espacio. Los resultados obtenidos han permitido justificar las elecciones que minimizan el error y los métodos de aproximación más adecuados para su posterior uso en la modelización. El modelo ha sido validado frente a datos reales en la costa de Holderness, Yorkshire, Reino Unido; y en la costa norte del lago Erie, Ontario, Canadá. Los resultados obtenidos presentan un importante avance en los modelos de recesión costera, especialmente en su relación con las condiciones geomecánicas del medio, la influencia del agua subterránea, la verticalización de los perfiles rocosos y su respuesta ante condiciones variables producidas por el cambio climático (por ejemplo, nivel medio del mar, cambios en los niveles de lago, etc.). The recession of coastal cliffs is a widespread phenomenon on the rocky shores that are exposed to the combined incidence of marine and meteorological processes that occur in the shoreline. This phenomenon is revealed violently and occasionally, as gravitational movements of the ground and can cause material or human losses. Although knowledge of the risks of erosion is vital for the proper management of the coast, the development of cliff erosion predictive models is limited by the complex interactions between environmental processes and material properties over a range of temporal and spatial scales. Published prediction models are scarce and present important drawbacks: extrapolation, that extend historical records to the future; empirical, that based on historical records studies the system response against the change in one parameter; stochastic, that represent of cliff behaviour based on assumptions regarding the magnitude and frequency of events in a probabilistic framework based on historical records; process-response, stability and error propagation unexplored; PDE´s, highly computationally expensive and not very accurate. The first part of this thesis describes the main features of the latest models of each type and, for the most commonly used, their ranges of application, advantages and disadvantages are given. Finally as a synthesis of the most relevant processes that include the revised models, a conceptual diagram of coastal recession is presented. This conceptual model includes the most influential processes that must be taken into account when using or creating a model of coastal recession to evaluate the dangerousness (time/frequency) of the phenomenon to medium-short term. A new process-response coastal recession model developed in this thesis has been designed to incorporate the behavioural and mechanical characteristics of coastal cliffs which are composed of with materials whose compressive strength is less than 5 MPa. The model simulates the spatial and temporal evolution of a cliff-2D profile that can consist of heterogeneous materials. To do so, marine dynamics: mean sea level, waves, tides, lake seasonal changes; is coupled with the evolution of land recession: erosion, cliff face failure and associated protective colluvial wedge. The model in its different variants can include analysis of material geomechanical stability, the effect of debris present at the cliff foot, groundwater effects, beach and run-up effects, changes in the mean sea level or changes (seasonal or inter-annual) in the mean lake level. Computational implementation and study of different numerical resolution techniques, in both time and space approximations, and the produced errors are exposed and analysed for the first two tidal periods. The results obtained in the errors analysis allow us to operate the model with a configuration that minimizes the error of the approximation methods. The model is validated through profile evolution assessment at various locations of coastline retreat on the Holderness Coast, Yorkshire, UK and on the north coast of Lake Erie, Ontario, Canada. The results represent an important stepforward in linking material properties to the processes of cliff recession, in considering the effect of groundwater charge and the slope oversteeping and their response to changing conditions caused by climate change (i.e. sea level, changes in lakes levels, etc.).

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A dynamical model is proposed to describe the coupled decomposition and profile evolution of a free surfacefilm of a binary mixture. An example is a thin film of a polymer blend on a solid substrate undergoing simultaneous phase separation and dewetting. The model is based on model-H describing the coupled transport of the mass of one component (convective Cahn-Hilliard equation) and momentum (Navier-Stokes-Korteweg equations) supplemented by appropriate boundary conditions at the solid substrate and the free surface. General transport equations are derived using phenomenological nonequilibrium thermodynamics for a general nonisothermal setting taking into account Soret and Dufour effects and interfacial viscosity for the internal diffuse interface between the two components. Focusing on an isothermal setting the resulting model is compared to literature results and its base states corresponding to homogeneous or vertically stratified flat layers are analyzed.

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Las playas sustentadas por medio de un pie sumergido son una atractiva alternativa de diseño de regeneración de playas especialmente cuando las condiciones física del emplazamiento o las características de la arena nativa y de préstamo producen perfiles de alimentación que no se intersectan. La observación y propuesta de este tipo de solución data de los años 1960’s, así como la experiencia internacional en la construcción de este tipo de playas. Sin embargo, a pesar de su utilización y los estudios en campo y laboratorio, no se dispone de criterios ingenieriles que apoyen el diseño de las mismas. Esta tesis consiste en un análisis experimental del perfil de playas sustentadas en un pie sumergido (o colgadas) que se concreta en una propuesta de directrices de diseño general que permiten estimar la ubicación y características geométricas del pie sumergido frente a un oleaje y material que constituye la playa determinados. En la tesis se describe el experimento bidimensional realizado en el modelo físico de fondo móvil, donde se combinan cinco tipos de oleaje con tres configuraciones del pie sumergido (“Sin estructura”, configuración baja o “Estructura 1” y configuración alta o “Estructura 2”), se presentan los resultados obtenidos y se realiza una discusión detallada de las implicaciones de los resultados desde el punto de vista hidrodinámico utilizando monomios adimensionales. Se ha realizado un análisis detallado del estado del arte sobre playas colgadas, presentando el concepto y las experiencias de realizaciones en distintos países. Se ha realizado una cuidadosa revisión de la literatura publicada sobre estudios experimentales de playas colgadas, modelos teóricos y otras cuestiones auxiliares, necesarias para la formulación de la metodología de la tesis. El estudio realizado se ha estructurado en dos fases. En la primera fase se ha realizado una experimentación en un modelo físico de fondo móvil construido en las instalaciones del Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEPYC) del Centro de Estudios y Experimentación de Obras Públicas (CEDEX), consistente en un canal de 36 m de longitud, 3 m de anchura y 1.5 m de altura, provisto de un generador de oleaje de tipo pistón. Se ha diseñado una campaña de 15 ensayos, que se obtienen sometiendo a cinco tipos de oleaje tres configuraciones distintas de playa colgada. En los ensayos se ha medido el perfil de playa en distintos instantes hasta llegar al equilibrio, determinando a partir de esos datos el retroceso de la línea de costa y el volumen de sedimentos perdido. El tiempo total efectivo de ensayo asciende a casi 650 horas, y el número de perfiles de evolución de playa obtenidos totaliza 229. En la segunda fase se ha abordado el análisis de los resultados obtenidos con la finalidad de comprender el fenómeno, identificar las variables de las que depende y proponer unas directrices ingenieriles de diseño. Se ha estudiado el efecto de la altura de ola, del periodo del oleaje, del francobordo adimensional y del parámetro de Dean, constatándose la dificultad de comprensión del funcionamiento de estas obras ya que pueden ser beneficiosas, perjudiciales o inocuas según los casos. También se ha estudiado la respuesta del perfil de playa en función de otros monomios adimensionales, tales como el número de Reynolds o el de Froude. En el análisis se ha elegido el monomio “plunger” como el más significativo, encontrando relaciones de éste con el peralte de oleaje, la anchura de coronación adimensional, la altura del pie de playa adimensional y el parámetro de Dean. Finalmente, se propone un método de diseño de cuatro pasos que permite realizar un primer encaje del diseño funcional de la playa sustentada frente a un oleaje de características determinadas. Las contribuciones más significativas desde el punto de vista científico son: - La obtención del juego de resultados experimentales. - La caracterización del comportamiento de las playas sustentadas. - Las relaciones propuestas entre el monomio plunger y las distintas variables explicativas seleccionadas, que permiten predecir el comportamiento de la obra. - El método de diseño propuesto, en cuatro pasos, para este tipo de esquemas de defensa de costas. Perched beaches are an attractive beach nourishment design alternative especially when either the site conditions or the characteristics of both the native and the borrow sand lead to a non-intersecting profile The observation and suggestion of the use of this type of coastal defence scheme dates back to the 1960’s, as well as the international experience in the construction of this type of beaches. However, in spite of its use and the field and laboratory studies performed to-date, no design engineering guidance is available to support its design. This dissertation is based on the experimental work performed on a movable bed physical model and the use of dimensionless parameters in analyzing the results to provide general functional design guidance that allow the designer, at a particular stretch of coast - to estimate the location and geometric characteristics of the submerged sill as well as to estimate the suitable sand size to be used in the nourishment. This dissertation consists on an experimental analysis of perched beaches by means of a submerged sill, leading to the proposal of general design guidance that allows to estimate the location and geometric characteristics of the submerged sill when facing a wave condition and for a given beach material. The experimental work performed on a bi-dimensional movable bed physical model, where five types of wave conditions are combined with three configurations of the submerged sill (“No structure”, low structure or “Structure 1”, and high structure or “Structure 2”) is described, results are presented, and a detailed discussion of the results - from the hydrodynamic point of view – of the implications of the results by using dimensionless parameters is carried out. A detailed state of the art analysis about perched beaches has been performed, presenting the “perched beach concept” and the case studies of different countries. Besides, a careful revision of the literature about experimental studies on perched beaches, theoretical models, and other topics deemed necessary to formulate the methodology of this work has been completed. The study has been divided into two phases. Within the first phase, experiments on a movable-bed physical model have been developed. The physical model has been built in the Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEPYC) facilities, Centro de Estudios y Experimentación de Obras Públicas (CEDEX). The wave flume is 36 m long, 3 m wide and 1.5 m high, and has a piston-type regular wave generator available. The test plan consisted of 15 tests resulting from five wave conditions attacking three different configurations of the perched beach. During the development of the tests, the beach profile has been surveyed at different intervals until equilibrium has been reached according to these measurements. Retreat of the shoreline and relative loss of sediment in volume have been obtained from the measurements. The total effective test time reaches nearly 650 hours, whereas the total number of beach evolution profiles measured amounts to 229. On the second phase, attention is focused on the analysis of results with the aim of understanding the phenomenon, identifying the governing variables and proposing engineering design guidelines. The effect of the wave height, the wave period, the dimensionless freeboard and of the Dean parameter have been analyzed. It has been pointed out the difficulty in understanding the way perched beaches work since they turned out to be beneficial, neutral or harmful according to wave conditions and structure configuration. Besides, the beach profile response as a function of other dimensionless parameters, such as Reynolds number or Froude number, has been studied. In this analysis, the “plunger” parameter has been selected as the most representative, and relationships between the plunger parameter and the wave steepness, the dimensionless crest width, the dimensionless crest height, and the Dean parameter have been identified. Finally, an engineering 4-step design method has been proposed, that allows for the preliminary functional design of the perched beach for a given wave condition. The most relevant contributions from the scientific point of view have been: - The acquisition of a consistent set of experimental results. - The characterization of the behavior of perched beaches. - The proposed relationships between the plunger parameter and the different explanatory variables selected, that allow for the prediction of the beach behavior. - The proposed design method, four-step method, for this type of coastal defense schemes.

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Beach profile line data collected from 32 profile sites along Long Beach Island, New Jersey. A total of 2,158 profile line surveys were examined, using empirical eigenfunction analysis and other measures of beach variability. Most profile lines have shown an accretionary trend since 1962 with rates between 2.3 and 0.24 meter per year in spite of erosion estimates due to sea level rise on the order of 0.68 meter per year. A great deal of variability in profile line change takes place along the beach, increasing from north to south, due to the location of profile lines relative to structures and offshore linear shoals. Detailed closely spaced profile lines taken over a year in a groin field near the north end of the island indicate littoral transport directions shift from north to south. Evidence of a littoral transport node near the north end of the groin field has been found. Net transport of the node is toward the south, but the rate could not be established due to lack of adequate wave data. Profile line variability within groin cells shows that single profile lines are not sufficient to determine the net change within a cell. The design of future beach monitoring studies should consider coastal structures, offshore bathymetry, the method of analysis, and the scales of processes under study. A coastal storm in November 1968 moved the MSL back as much as 22 meters; however, the beach recovered without artificial measures. The offshore bathymetry shows a series of shoreface-connected linear shoals at several locations along the island. Limited data show that these have remained stable and that most beach variability takes place in water shallower than 3 meters.

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Beach profile lines at 21 near-evenly spaced intervals along Holden Beach, North Carolina, between Lockwoods Folly and Shallotte Inlets, were measured from November 1970 to December 1974. These have been analyzed to determine the spatial and temporal variabilities on long-term, seasonal, and short-term scales. Profile lines near the inlets showed the greatest variability in mean sea level (MSL) position, above MSL volume, foreshore slope, and profile envelope. This variability near Lockwoods Folly Inlet was partly enhanced by artificial nourishment at profile line 2. Temporary, low-cost shore protection devices (e.g., sandbag groins) were constructed near that inlet during part of the study. No other modifications or activities that affected beach processes were known to occur during the study period. The central part of Holden Beach was studied separately because of the high variability of the inlet sections at either end of the island. Foreshore slopes along this reach increased from an average of 1:30 at the east end to 1:17 at the west. A seasonal change in above MSL volume indicates loss of sand during autumn and winter, and gain during spring and summer. Changes in MSL shoreline intercept and above MSL volume were highly variable during the study.

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Management of coastal development in Hawaii is based on the location of the certified shoreline, which is representative of the upper limit of marine inundation within the last several years. Though the certified shoreline location is significantly more variable than long-term erosion indicators, its migration will still follow the coastline's general trend. The long-term migration of Hawaii’s coasts will be significantly controlled by rising sea level. However, land use decisions adjacent to the shoreline and the shape and nature of the nearshore environment are also important controls to coastal migration. Though each of the islands has experienced local sea-level rise over the course of the last century, there are still locations across the islands of Kauai, Oahu, and Maui, which show long- term accretion or anomalously high erosion rates relative to their regions. As a result, engineering rules of thumb such as the Brunn rule do not always predict coastal migration and beach profile equilibrium in Hawaii. With coastlines facing all points of the compass rose, anthropogenic alteration of the coasts, complex coastal environments such as coral reefs, and the limited capacity to predict coastal change, Hawaii will require a more robust suite of proactive coastal management policies to weather future changes to its coastline. Continuing to use the current certified shoreline, adopting more stringent coastal setback rules similar to Kauai County, adding realistic sea-level rise components for all types of coastal planning, and developing regional beach management plans are some of the recommended adaptation strategies for Hawaii. (PDF contains 4 pages)

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Beachfront jurisdictional lines were established by the South Carolina Beachfront Management Act (SC Code §48- 39-250 et seq.) in 1988 to regulate the new construction, repair, or reconstruction of buildings and erosion control structures along the state’s ocean shorelines. Building within the state’s beachfront “setback area” is allowed, but is subject to special regulations. For “standard beaches” (those not influenced by tidal inlets or associated shoals), a baseline is established at the crest of the primary oceanfront sand dune; for “unstabilized inlet zones,” the baseline is drawn at the most landward point of erosion during the past forty years. The parallel setback line is then established landward of the baseline a distance of forty times the long-term average annual erosion rate (not less than twenty feet from the baseline in stable or accreting areas). The positions of the baseline and setback line are updated every 8-10 years using the best available scientific and historical data, including aerial imagery, LiDAR, historical shorelines, beach profiles, and long-term erosion rates. One advantage of science-based setbacks is that, by using actual historical and current shoreline positions and beach profile data, they reflect the general erosion threat to beachfront structures. However, recent experiences with revising the baseline and setback line indicate that significant challenges and management implications also exist. (PDF contains 3 pages)

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为了使得数值模拟更为精确, 采用广义非线性薛定谔方程(GNSE)描述超短激光脉冲在光子晶体光纤中的传输演化过程, 并利用二阶分步傅里叶方法通过求解方程, 数值计算了相同脉宽和能量的超短脉冲在不同色散参量的光子晶体光纤中非线性传输和超连续谱的产生。比较了超短脉冲在光纤不同色散区传输时, 高阶色散和非线性效应对超连续谱的产生以及对脉冲波形演化的影响。结果表明, 相对于超短脉冲中心波长位于光子晶体光纤的正常和反常色散区, 可以相应获得短波波段和长波波段的超连续谱输出, 当超短脉冲中心波长位于零色散波长点时, 通

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Ring rolling is an incremental bulk forming process for the near-net-shape production of seamless rings. This paper shows how nowadays the process design and optimization can be efficiently supported by simulation methods. For reliable predictions of the material flow and the microstructure evolution it's necessary to include a real ring rolling mill's control algorithm into the model. Furthermore an approach for the online measurement of the profile evolution during the process is presented by means of axial profiling in ring rolling. Hence the definition of new ring rolling strategies is possible even for advanced geometries.

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The morphology of the beach backshore and foreshore at Huiquan Bay, Qingdao, China, is characterized by a single intertidal sandbar system with a spring tide range of 4.59 m. The beach was measured with a laser total station of Leica TPS402. Contours of the beach were generated using data collected in March and November 2005. The survey method provided 2 mm measuring accuracy and 4-10 m horizontal spacing. The net accretion volume of the foreshore was about 11, 215 m(3) from March to November. After sand sculpture activity, the axis of the sand trough migrated onshore from about 3.5 m to 17.5 m on the foreshore beach in November. At the same time, the axis of the sandbar crest migrated onshore no more than 42.25 m on the northwest foreshore; and it migrated offshore no more than 23.75 m on the southeast foreshore. On the northwest and southeast foreshore beach, two strips of erosion areas with a thickness of 0-0.2 m appeared on the sandbar crest. Accretion occurred at the bottom of the sand trough with a thickness of similar to 0.2-0.6 m. The sandbar height decreased after sand sculpture activity, and it was no more than 0.7 m in March and 0.6 m in November. Human activities, such as sand digging on the sandbar crest during sand sculpture activity, also can disturb the beach morphology of intertidal bar systems. This phenomenon also was validated by comparison of beach morphology, the results of a color artificial tracer experiment and a sediment transportation trend prediction.

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La réalisation de dispositifs à des dimensions sous-micrométriques et nanométriques demande une maîtrise parfaite des procédés de fabrication, notamment ceux de gravure. La réalisation des ces dispositifs est complexe et les exigences en termes de qualité et de géométrie des profils de gravure imposent de choisir les conditions opératoires les mieux adaptées. Les simulations de l'évolution spatio-temporelle des profils de gravure que nous proposons dans cette thèse s'inscrivent parfaitement dans ce contexte. Le simulateur que nous avons réalisé offre la possibilité de mieux comprendre les processus qui entrent en jeu lors de la gravure par plasma de profils dans divers matériaux. Il permet de tester l'influence des paramètres du plasma sur la forme du profil et donc de déterminer les conditions opératoires optimales. La mise au point de ce simulateur s'appuie sur les concepts fondamentaux qui gouvernent la gravure par plasma. À partir de l'état des lieux des différentes approches numériques pouvant être utilisées, nous avons élaboré un algorithme stable et adaptable permettant de mettre en évidence l'importance de certains paramètres clés pour la réalisation de profils de gravure par un plasma à haute densité et à basse pression. Les capacités de cet algorithme ont été testées en étudiant d'une part la pulvérisation de Si dans un plasma d'argon et d'autre part, la gravure chimique assistée par les ions de SiO2/Si dans un plasma de chlore. Grâce aux comparaisons entre profils simulés et expérimentaux, nous avons montré l'importance du choix de certains paramètres, comme la nature du gaz utilisé et la pression du plasma, la forme initiale du masque, la sélectivité masque/matériau, le rapport de flux neutre/ion, etc. Nous avons aussi lié ces paramètres à la formation de défauts dans les profils, par exemple celle de facettes sur le masque, de parois concaves, et de micro-tranchées. Enfin, nous avons montré que le phénomène de redépôt des atomes pulvérisés entre en compétition avec la charge électrique de surface pour expliquer la formation de profils en V dans le Pt pulvérisé par un plasma d'argon.