Challenges in using science-based shoreline setbacks: Examples from South Carolina

Beachfront jurisdictional lines were established by the South Carolina Beachfront Management Act (SC Code §48- 39-250 et seq.) in 1988 to regulate the new construction, repair, or reconstruction of buildings and erosion control structures along the state’s ocean shorelines. Building within the state’s beachfront “setback area” is allowed, but is subject to special regulations. For “standard beaches” (those not influenced by tidal inlets or associated shoals), a baseline is established at the crest of the primary oceanfront sand dune; for “unstabilized inlet zones,” the baseline is drawn at the most landward point of erosion during the past forty years. The parallel setback line is then established landward of the baseline a distance of forty times the long-term average annual erosion rate (not less than twenty feet from the baseline in stable or accreting areas). The positions of the baseline and setback line are updated every 8-10 years using the best available scientific and historical data, including aerial imagery, LiDAR, historical shorelines, beach profiles, and long-term erosion rates. One advantage of science-based setbacks is that, by using actual historical and current shoreline positions and beach profile data, they reflect the general erosion threat to beachfront structures. However, recent experiences with revising the baseline and setback line indicate that significant challenges and management implications also exist. (PDF contains 3 pages)

Zumaiako Santiago eta Itzurun hondartzen ezaugarritze morfotopografikoa eta granulometrikoa

175 p. : il.

Evolução Quaternária da Baixada de Jacarepaguá a partir de perfis GPR

O trabalho presente tem como enfoque o estudo da evolução quaternária da Baixada de Jacarepaguá situada no estado do Rio de Janeiro através do uso do método GPR (Ground Penetrating Radar). Os numerosos estudos feitos na Baixada de Jacarepaguá, baseados nas curvas de variação do nível do mar em diferentes setores da costa Brasileira (MARTIN et al. 1985) e datações ao radiocarbono contribuíram na elaboração de um modelo evolutivo no Pleistoceno e no Holoceno. Esse modelo mostra em primeiro lugar episódios transgressivos em 7000-5100 anos BP, 3900-3600 anos BP e 2700-2500 anos BP e episódios regressivos a 5100-3900 anos BP, 3600-2700 anos BP e depois de 2500 anos BP. Esses episódios de variações do nível relativo do mar tiveram por consequência a constante evolução da Baixada de Jacarepaguá do estado de ilha-barreira com uma e depois duas barreiras (interna e externa), fruto da inundação da planície por invasão marinha em episódios transgressivos, a um estado de planície costeira emersa em episódios regressivos com barreira progradante direção ao mar e processos erosivos associados. Esse modelo evolutivo não inclui dados processados obtidos com o GPR, método que permite por impulsos eletromagnéticos de alta freqüência gerar um perfil de refletores baseado nas descontinuidades elétricas na subsuperficie. Os perfis levantados e processados nesse trabalho permitiram confirmar esse modelo evolutivo, mostrando uma sucessão de migração do perfil de praia e geometria sedimentar associada em resposta as numerosas variações eustática local.

Short-term morphological changes after sand-digging during a sand sculpture activity

The morphology of the beach backshore and foreshore at Huiquan Bay, Qingdao, China, is characterized by a single intertidal sandbar system with a spring tide range of 4.59 m. The beach was measured with a laser total station of Leica TPS402. Contours of the beach were generated using data collected in March and November 2005. The survey method provided 2 mm measuring accuracy and 4-10 m horizontal spacing. The net accretion volume of the foreshore was about 11, 215 m(3) from March to November. After sand sculpture activity, the axis of the sand trough migrated onshore from about 3.5 m to 17.5 m on the foreshore beach in November. At the same time, the axis of the sandbar crest migrated onshore no more than 42.25 m on the northwest foreshore; and it migrated offshore no more than 23.75 m on the southeast foreshore. On the northwest and southeast foreshore beach, two strips of erosion areas with a thickness of 0-0.2 m appeared on the sandbar crest. Accretion occurred at the bottom of the sand trough with a thickness of similar to 0.2-0.6 m. The sandbar height decreased after sand sculpture activity, and it was no more than 0.7 m in March and 0.6 m in November. Human activities, such as sand digging on the sandbar crest during sand sculpture activity, also can disturb the beach morphology of intertidal bar systems. This phenomenon also was validated by comparison of beach morphology, the results of a color artificial tracer experiment and a sediment transportation trend prediction.

Petrography, Geochemistry and Diagenesis of Coral Deposits of Kavaratti and Minicoy Islands, Lakshadweep, India

In the present thesis the petrographic, geochemical and digenetic variability of the sediments in the islands of Kavaratti and Minicoy has been investigated .The beach profile studies show that in the Kavaratti lagoon beach, the slope is steeper in the southern and south central part than in the northern end’s marginal deposition is taking place in the northern end of the Kavaratti island, whereas a marginal erosion is observed at the southern end. In Minicoy the slope of the lagoon beach is gentle in the south and is slightly steeper at the northern part of the beach. The southern and northern beach sections show a marginal deposition. Based on the mineralogical and geochemical studies it is concluded that the main digenetic changes observed is the transformation of aragonite to LMC.The transformation takes place mainly in the vadose zone and is caused by the abundance of fresh water infiltration.

EFFECT OF COLD FRONTS ON THE BENTHIC MACROFAUNA OF EXPOSED SANDY BEACHES WITH CONTRASTING MORPHODYNAMICS

The aim of this study was to determine the short-term environmental changes caused by the simultaneous passage of a high energy event on two sandy beaches with different morphodynamic states and their influence on the richness, abundance and distribution of the benthic macrofauna. Two microtidal exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics were simultaneously sampled before, during and after the passage of two cold fronts in Santa Catarina. The reflective beach showed a higher susceptibility to the increase in wave energy produced by the passage of cold fronts and was characterized by rapid and intense erosive processes in addition to a capacity for rapid restoration of the beach profile. As regards the dissipative beach, erosive processes operated more slowly and progressively, and it was characterized further by a reduced capacity for the recovery of its sub-aerial profile. Although the intensity of the environmental changes was distinct as between the morphodynamic extremes, changes in the composition, richness and abundance of macrobenthos induced by cold fronts were not evident for either of the beaches studied. On the other hand, alterations in the distribution pattern of the macrofauna were observed on the two beaches and were related to variations in sea level, position of the swash zone and moisture gradient, suggesting that short-term accommodations in the spatial structure of the macrobenthos occur in response to changes in environmental conditions in accordance with the temporal dynamics characteristic of each morphodynamic state.

Dinâmica Costeira dos Campos petrolíferos Macau/Serra, litoral setentrional do Estado do Rio Grande do Norte

This thesis describes the general behavior of the northern shore of the State of Rio Grande do Norte relating beach profile morphology with hydrodynamic and sedimentological parameters. The Macau and Serra Oil Field are inserted on this area and are under accelerated coastal erosion. At these oil fields are installed oil wells from PETROBRAS, nowadays located directly in the shoreline, under constant attacks of coastal processes (e.g. waves, tides and currents), which promote an intense morphodynamic variability of this sandy coast. The area was monitored for 24 months in three different stations (P01, P02 and P03). The methodology applied involved current techniques of beach profiles, hydrodynamical processes, remote sensing and geophysics. A synthesis of results obtained through the use of different time scales (monthly, lunar cycle, seasonal, annual) from a coastal dynamics study is presented. The average wind direction corresponded to 77ºAz (NE). The steepness of the berm and of the shoreface, as well as coastal current direction, do not present major changes, with an average of 36º for the steepness of the berm, 15º for the shoreface and 15º for the coastal current direction. This data set allows us to infer that the months of larger coastal erosion were November/2000 and April/2001, because of the largest wave parameter during this time. The months of worse coastal erosion in this area are related with the increasing wavy energy. This in turn, seems to be related to seasonal climatic variations, with the wave energy and tide currents speed increasing during months of minor precipitations (June to January). The months of worse coastal erosion were September and November, when the largest wave parameters and speed currents are measured in the area. Since these months are included on the period of minor precipitations, we related the coastal erosion to seasonal climatic variations. The results obtained during these 24 months of monitoring confirms a situation of accentuated erosion, mainly in Profile 03 (Barra do Corta-Cachorro), where the wave height, period, and coastal current speed are always larger than the values found in Profile 02 (Macau5). Probably these values are more expressive in Profile 03, because it does not present any natural structure of protection against the wave impacts, as the barrier island located at Ponta do Tubarão, or the sand banks in front of Macau5. The transport of the sediments occurs from East to West, and the sand accumulation is more pronounced on Profile 03 intertidal zone, where there are embrionary dunes in dryer months. The tidal currents speed, on the other hand, is more accentuated in the Macau5 area (Profile 02). At Ponta do Tubarão, the tidal currents presented a preferential direction for NE, at times of flood, currents and for NW, at times of ebb current; at Barra do Corta-Cachorro the direction of the currents were predominantly for NW, independent of the tide phase, coinciding with the preferential direction of the longshore current. This currents inversion at Ponta do Tubarão is attributed to the presence of the Ponta do Tubarão island barrier and by the communication channel of the lagoon with the sea. The tide currents are better observed in protected areas, as in the Ponta do Tubarão, when they present inversion in their direction accordingly to the flood and ebb tide. In open areas, as in Barra do Corta-Cachorro, the tide currents are overprinted by the longshore currents. Sediment analysis does not show important modifications in grain size related to seasonality (dry- and rainy seasons). On the foreshore and backshore zones, the sediments vary from fine to medium sand, while in the shoreface they very from fine to very sands. The grains are mostly spheres, varying from sub rounded to sub angled. Quartz is the main component alongside Feldspat and heavy minerals as accessory components. Biogenic content is also present and mainly represented by mollusks fragments. The calculated sediment transport show values around 100 m3/day. The morphodynamic studies indicated that this is a reflexive area from October to April, and intermediate from May to September. The Relative Tide Range-RTR for this area is 4 < RTR < 15, and so classified in the mixed wave-tide group. Having this exposed we can affirm that the more active natural factors in this area are the currents, followed by the tides and the winds. The anthropic factors are exclusively local and punctual (Macau and Serra Oil Field). Taking in account the economic importance of the area, as well as the intensity of coastal processes acting on this shore, it is important a continuity of the monthly environmental monitoring looking for variations on longer-period cycles. These data have been stored on the geo-referenced database of the projects MARPETRO and PETRORISCO (REDE 05), aiming to model the coastal and sea environment, susceptible to oil spills and their derivatives

Análise de risco à erosão costeira na região de Tibau do Sul/RN através de mapeamento geoambiental e análise morfodinâmica

The research area is located on the county of Tibau do Sul, in the east coast of Rio Grande do Norte State, about 80km south of the capital Natal. The tourism represents the main income activity and Pipa beach is the most visited beach in the city, annually receives a large influx of domestic and foreign tourists. Some recent studies have reported the occurrence of coastal erosion in this littoral, being the main objective of the research, analyze the existing coastal erosion, through two methodologies, the geoenvironmental mapping and beach morphodynamics. The geoenvironmental mapping was done from oblique aerial photographs and field visits, which sought to carry out first the geomorphological mapping, with the purpose of analyzing features that suggest susceptible areas to erosion, as areas without protection of natural dunes, marine terraces, or sandstones (beach-rocks and ferruginous sandstones), areas with the presence of gullies and stretches where the sea-cliffs were in direct contact with the action of the sea, representing the beginning of the beach profile. In the morphodynamic study sought to carry out the survey of the physical and morphological characteristics, the analysis of sediment grain of the beaches and finally the analysis of the morphodynamic parameters to generate a table of risk to erosion by sector of the beach. The morphodynamic parameters were defined by the methodology proposed by Short (2006), in which considers different patterns of dynamism on beaches with characteristics favorable and unfavorable to erosive profiles. The maps indicated different levels of risk to the segments of the beaches analyzed, suggesting risk to erosion low and low to moderate only in areas north and northwest of the beaches of Madeiro and Curral, and levels of moderate and high risk sectors in the south and southeast of these beaches . The beach of Pipa showed moderate levels of risk and moderate to high at the ends and high risk to erosion in the central portion. The study of the coastal environment, its morphological evolution, and areas with problems of erosion, are of fundamental importance to assist coastal management policies, giving grants for planning activities undertaken in these regions

Mineralogia e geoquímica da ocorrência de palygorskita de Alcântara, bacia de S. Luís-Grajaú, Maranhão

A Formação Alcântara (bacia de São Luis-Grajaú, região de Alcântara, MA) é constituída por pelitos, arenitos e dolomitos. Esses litotipos representam uma sucessão progradacional de depósitos de laguna/washover e canal de maré sobrepondo-se a depósitos de shoreface gerados por processos de tempestade. O presente trabalho tem como objetivo principal à caracterização mineralógica e geoquímica dos argilominerais que ocorrem nos níveis pelíticos da Formação Alcântara, especialmente a palygorskita. Foi descrito e amostrado um perfil geológico na praia da Baronesa, na cidade de Alcântara, MA, no qual foram coletadas 8 amostras, que após a preparação em laboratório, foram submetidas a análises mineralógicas e químicas por difração de raios X, fluorescência de raios X, análises térmicas e microscopia eletrônica de varredura. Os resultados mostraram que o perfil da praia da Baronesa é composto por arenitos na base, seguido de pelitos dominantes, com intercalações de dolomitos. Nos pelitos, foram descritos uma ampla assembléia de argilominerais, em ambiente lagunar, com variações no conteúdo de palygorskita, clorita, illita, esmectita e traços de caulinita. Observam-se ainda traços de dolomita, calcita e feldspatos. Os teores de palygorskita e dolomita (níveis dolomíticos) são acentuados, sugerindo que as condições climáticas durante o período de deposição foram áridas a semi-áridas. Duas gerações de palygorskita foram descritas: uma na forma de bolsões ou acumulações macroscópicas nos níveis pelíticos ricos em esmectita, freqüentemente descritas na literatura, e outra na forma maciça, como o mineral dominante dos níveis pelíticos superiores do perfil da praia da Baronesa. Essa segunda geração está sendo descrita pela primeira vez, neste trabalho, podendo constituir em níveis métricos e que podem revelar interesse econômico.

Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: A review

This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and Sao Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay-headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range). (C) 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Medición del transporte de cantos en la playa de San Felipe, Gran Canaria

Máster Oficial en Gestión Costera

Perfil de playas sustentadas : estudio hidrodinámico y experimental : directrices de diseño

Las playas sustentadas por medio de un pie sumergido son una atractiva alternativa de diseño de regeneración de playas especialmente cuando las condiciones física del emplazamiento o las características de la arena nativa y de préstamo producen perfiles de alimentación que no se intersectan. La observación y propuesta de este tipo de solución data de los años 1960’s, así como la experiencia internacional en la construcción de este tipo de playas. Sin embargo, a pesar de su utilización y los estudios en campo y laboratorio, no se dispone de criterios ingenieriles que apoyen el diseño de las mismas. Esta tesis consiste en un análisis experimental del perfil de playas sustentadas en un pie sumergido (o colgadas) que se concreta en una propuesta de directrices de diseño general que permiten estimar la ubicación y características geométricas del pie sumergido frente a un oleaje y material que constituye la playa determinados. En la tesis se describe el experimento bidimensional realizado en el modelo físico de fondo móvil, donde se combinan cinco tipos de oleaje con tres configuraciones del pie sumergido (“Sin estructura”, configuración baja o “Estructura 1” y configuración alta o “Estructura 2”), se presentan los resultados obtenidos y se realiza una discusión detallada de las implicaciones de los resultados desde el punto de vista hidrodinámico utilizando monomios adimensionales. Se ha realizado un análisis detallado del estado del arte sobre playas colgadas, presentando el concepto y las experiencias de realizaciones en distintos países. Se ha realizado una cuidadosa revisión de la literatura publicada sobre estudios experimentales de playas colgadas, modelos teóricos y otras cuestiones auxiliares, necesarias para la formulación de la metodología de la tesis. El estudio realizado se ha estructurado en dos fases. En la primera fase se ha realizado una experimentación en un modelo físico de fondo móvil construido en las instalaciones del Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEPYC) del Centro de Estudios y Experimentación de Obras Públicas (CEDEX), consistente en un canal de 36 m de longitud, 3 m de anchura y 1.5 m de altura, provisto de un generador de oleaje de tipo pistón. Se ha diseñado una campaña de 15 ensayos, que se obtienen sometiendo a cinco tipos de oleaje tres configuraciones distintas de playa colgada. En los ensayos se ha medido el perfil de playa en distintos instantes hasta llegar al equilibrio, determinando a partir de esos datos el retroceso de la línea de costa y el volumen de sedimentos perdido. El tiempo total efectivo de ensayo asciende a casi 650 horas, y el número de perfiles de evolución de playa obtenidos totaliza 229. En la segunda fase se ha abordado el análisis de los resultados obtenidos con la finalidad de comprender el fenómeno, identificar las variables de las que depende y proponer unas directrices ingenieriles de diseño. Se ha estudiado el efecto de la altura de ola, del periodo del oleaje, del francobordo adimensional y del parámetro de Dean, constatándose la dificultad de comprensión del funcionamiento de estas obras ya que pueden ser beneficiosas, perjudiciales o inocuas según los casos. También se ha estudiado la respuesta del perfil de playa en función de otros monomios adimensionales, tales como el número de Reynolds o el de Froude. En el análisis se ha elegido el monomio “plunger” como el más significativo, encontrando relaciones de éste con el peralte de oleaje, la anchura de coronación adimensional, la altura del pie de playa adimensional y el parámetro de Dean. Finalmente, se propone un método de diseño de cuatro pasos que permite realizar un primer encaje del diseño funcional de la playa sustentada frente a un oleaje de características determinadas. Las contribuciones más significativas desde el punto de vista científico son: - La obtención del juego de resultados experimentales. - La caracterización del comportamiento de las playas sustentadas. - Las relaciones propuestas entre el monomio plunger y las distintas variables explicativas seleccionadas, que permiten predecir el comportamiento de la obra. - El método de diseño propuesto, en cuatro pasos, para este tipo de esquemas de defensa de costas. Perched beaches are an attractive beach nourishment design alternative especially when either the site conditions or the characteristics of both the native and the borrow sand lead to a non-intersecting profile The observation and suggestion of the use of this type of coastal defence scheme dates back to the 1960’s, as well as the international experience in the construction of this type of beaches. However, in spite of its use and the field and laboratory studies performed to-date, no design engineering guidance is available to support its design. This dissertation is based on the experimental work performed on a movable bed physical model and the use of dimensionless parameters in analyzing the results to provide general functional design guidance that allow the designer, at a particular stretch of coast - to estimate the location and geometric characteristics of the submerged sill as well as to estimate the suitable sand size to be used in the nourishment. This dissertation consists on an experimental analysis of perched beaches by means of a submerged sill, leading to the proposal of general design guidance that allows to estimate the location and geometric characteristics of the submerged sill when facing a wave condition and for a given beach material. The experimental work performed on a bi-dimensional movable bed physical model, where five types of wave conditions are combined with three configurations of the submerged sill (“No structure”, low structure or “Structure 1”, and high structure or “Structure 2”) is described, results are presented, and a detailed discussion of the results - from the hydrodynamic point of view – of the implications of the results by using dimensionless parameters is carried out. A detailed state of the art analysis about perched beaches has been performed, presenting the “perched beach concept” and the case studies of different countries. Besides, a careful revision of the literature about experimental studies on perched beaches, theoretical models, and other topics deemed necessary to formulate the methodology of this work has been completed. The study has been divided into two phases. Within the first phase, experiments on a movable-bed physical model have been developed. The physical model has been built in the Centro de Estudios de Puertos y Costas (CEPYC) facilities, Centro de Estudios y Experimentación de Obras Públicas (CEDEX). The wave flume is 36 m long, 3 m wide and 1.5 m high, and has a piston-type regular wave generator available. The test plan consisted of 15 tests resulting from five wave conditions attacking three different configurations of the perched beach. During the development of the tests, the beach profile has been surveyed at different intervals until equilibrium has been reached according to these measurements. Retreat of the shoreline and relative loss of sediment in volume have been obtained from the measurements. The total effective test time reaches nearly 650 hours, whereas the total number of beach evolution profiles measured amounts to 229. On the second phase, attention is focused on the analysis of results with the aim of understanding the phenomenon, identifying the governing variables and proposing engineering design guidelines. The effect of the wave height, the wave period, the dimensionless freeboard and of the Dean parameter have been analyzed. It has been pointed out the difficulty in understanding the way perched beaches work since they turned out to be beneficial, neutral or harmful according to wave conditions and structure configuration. Besides, the beach profile response as a function of other dimensionless parameters, such as Reynolds number or Froude number, has been studied. In this analysis, the “plunger” parameter has been selected as the most representative, and relationships between the plunger parameter and the wave steepness, the dimensionless crest width, the dimensionless crest height, and the Dean parameter have been identified. Finally, an engineering 4-step design method has been proposed, that allows for the preliminary functional design of the perched beach for a given wave condition. The most relevant contributions from the scientific point of view have been: - The acquisition of a consistent set of experimental results. - The characterization of the behavior of perched beaches. - The proposed relationships between the plunger parameter and the different explanatory variables selected, that allow for the prediction of the beach behavior. - The proposed design method, four-step method, for this type of coastal defense schemes.

Dominant wave energy and sediment movement on intertidal beaches in Freshwater Bay, Washington, U.S.A.

Freshwater Bay (FWB), Washington did not undergo significant erosion of its shoreline after the construction of the Elwha and Glines Canyon Dams, unlike the shoreline east of Angeles Point (the Elwha River’s lobate delta). In this paper I compare the wave energy density in the western and eastern ends of the Strait of Juan de Fuca with the wave energy density at the Elwha River delta. This indicates seasonal high- and low-energy regimes in the energy density data. I group multi-year surveys of four cross-shore transects in FWB along this seasonal divide and search for seasonal trends in profile on the foreshore. After documenting changes in elevation at specific datums on the foreshore, I compare digital images of one datum to determine the particle sizes that are transported during deposition and scour events on this section of the FWB foreshore. Repeat surveys of four cross-shore transects over a five-year period indicate a highly mobile slope break between the upper foreshore and the low-tide delta. Post-2011, profiles in eastern FWB record deposition in the landward portion of the low-tide terrace and also in the upper intertidal. Western FWB experiences transient deposition on the low-tide terrace and high intra-annual variability in beach profile. Profile elevation at the slope break in western FWB can vary 0.5 m in the course of weeks. Changes in surface sediment that range from sand to cobble are co-incident with these changes in elevation. High sediment mobility and profile variation are inconsistent with shoreline stability and decreased sediment from the presumed source on the Elwha River delta.