Photochromic wool fabrics with enhanced durability and photochromic performance

In our previous work, we have produced a photochromic wool fabric by applying a thin layer of hybrid silica-photochromic dye onto the wool surface. The coating showed a very fast optical response, but had little influence on the fabric handle, however durability was low. In this context, we reported that durability of the hybrid layer can be improved by introducing epoxy groups into the silica matrix via co-hydrolysis and co-condensation of an alkyl trialkoxysilane (ATAS) and 3-glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane (GPTMS). The presence of epoxy groups in the silica enhanced both washing and abrasion durabilities. Also, the optical response speed was slightly increased as well. Effects of the type of alkyl silane and the GPTMS:alkyl silane ratio on the coating durability, fabric handle and optical response were examined.

A comparative study on accelerated weathering tests of wool fabrics

This work has used two lightboxes with Philips 500 W MBTF lamps for a comparative trial on the photoyellowing evaluation of untreated wool fabrics under dry and wet conditions. An investigation was made to account for different trends of photoyellowing of the same wool fabric when irradiated by the two lightboxes. The fabric specimens irradiated in one lamp experienced increasing yellowing with irradiation time while specimens from the same wool fabric but irradiated under the other lamp manifested no noticeable color change. These differences are attributed to the susceptibility of wool to small spectral differences between the two MBTF lamps. Furthermore, the color fading results obtained from the commonly used blue wool standard (BWS) references from L1 to L3 show that these reference materials could not effectively reveal changes caused by the spectral differences in two MBTF lamps. These results have important implications for conducting accelerated weathering tests on spectrum-sensitive textile materials, and considerable care should be taken when using BWSs to ensure reliable and consistent irradiation results.

Assessment of the pilling propensity of wool knitwear

This study addresses a major issue facing the wool industry - the formation of entangled fibres or pills on wool knitwear. By examining the factors that contribute to the inconsistent pilling results, ways of improving the test procedures have been identified. This will have practical implications for the textile industry.

A correlation study of subjective sensorial evaluation and objective softness measurement of wool fabrics

Comfort is one of the most important aspects of clothing, especially for next-to-skin garments such as shirts and trousers for summer. Sensorial comfort has a strong relationship with both the mechanical and surface properties of apparel fabric. A comfortable textile material should have properties of softness, smooth surface or texture, be pleasant to touch and very flexible. When assessing fabric handle subjectively, the assessor usually strokes the fabric surface with one or several fingers and squash the fabric gently in hand. Thus, the perception of such handle includes complex parameters of compression, tactile sensation and textural effect. In this work, we attempted to use a simple technique of objectively evaluating fabric softness related properties, by measuring the force required to pull a fabric strip through a series of parallel pins (the pulling force). We also subjectively rated the fabric handle. The correlation analysis showed very good agreement between the fabric pulling force and subjective hand rating.

Effect of surface treatment and knit structure on comfort properties of wool fabrics

The comfort properties of the pique and single jersey knitted wool fabrics were investigated using the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM). The fabrics were knitted in three cover factors and treated with either plasma or a silicone softening agent and were compared with untreated fabrics. Plasma treatment did not show significant effects on the comfort value. However, silicone polymer significantly reduced WCM values suggesting that the silicone coating reduced the number of protruding fibres on the fabric surface. Regardless of treatment used, pique fabrics showed a lower WCM value, and therefore were perceived to be more comfortable than the single jersey structure. While the effect of cover factor was not significant, in fitted model to predict the WCM value of fabrics, mass/unit area and fabric thickness were significant predictors along with fabric structure and finishing treatment.

Photostability of wool fabrics coated with pure and modified TiO2 colloids

The surface of wool fabrics was coated with TiO2 and TiO2-based nanocomposite colloids and the impact of this coating on the photostability of wool was investigated. TiO2 along with TiO2/Metal and TiO2/Metal/SiO2 sols were synthesized through a low-temperature sol-gel method and applied to fabrics. Composite colloids were synthesized through integrating the silica and three noble metals of silver (Ag), gold (Au) and platinum (Pt) into the synthesis process of sols. Four different molar ratios of Metal to TiO2 (0.01%, 0.1%, 0.5% and 1%) were used to elucidate the role of metal type and amount on the obtained features. Photostability and UV protection features of fabrics were evaluated through measuring the photo-induced chemiluminescence (PICL), photoyellowing rate and ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of fabrics. PICL and photoyellowing tests were carried out under UVA and UVC light sources, respectively. PICL profiles demonstrated that the presence of pure and modified TiO2 nanoparticles on fabrics reduced the intensity of PICL peak indicating a lower amount of polymer free radicals in coated wool, compared to that of pristine fabric. Moreover, a higher PICL peak intensity as well as photoyellowing rate was observed on fabrics coated with modified colloids in comparison with pure TiO2. The surface morphology of fabrics was further characterized using FESEM images.

Reducing photoyellowing of wool fabrics with silica coated ZnO nanoparticles

Though ZnO nanoparticles (NPs) are an excellent UV absorber, their photocatalytic activity greatly limits the application areas of these particles. Under sunlight exposure, ZnO NPs used as a UV absorber can accelerate the wool yellowing process by generating free radicals. To reduce this photocatalysis effect, a physical barrier has been fabricated by coating the ZnO NPs with a silica layer (ZnO@SiO2), hence providing good UV-shielding with low photocatalytic activity. The structure and optical properties of ZnO and ZnO@SiO2 NPs were characterized by transmission electron microscope (TEM) and UV–Vis spectrum. The photocatalytic activity of ZnO and ZnO@SiO2 NPs was evaluated by photo-degradation of Rhodamine B. The ZnO and ZnO@SiO2 NPs were applied to knitted wool fabrics using the dip coating method. The treated wool fabrics were characterized by a scanning electron microscope (SEM) and the photoyellowing level of treated fabrics after exposure under simulated sunlight was evaluated by a Datacolor Spectraflash spectrophotometer. The ZnO@SiO2 NPs demonstrated excellent protection of wool against photoyellowing.

Relationships between wearer assessment and the instrumental measurement of the handle and prickle of knitted wool fabrics

The relationships between wearer-assessed comfort and objectively measured comfort and handle parameters were investigated using 19 pure wool single jersey garments made of single ply yarns. Wearer trials were used to determine prickle discomfort, and whether wearers “liked” the garments. Fabrics then were objectively evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes; and the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM), to predict a wearer's perception of fabric-evoked prickle. Wearer responses and the relationships within and between objective measurements and the effect of fibre, yarn and fabrics attributes were analysed by general linear modelling. Mean fibre diameter, fibre diameter coefficient of variation, yarn count, fabric thickness, fabric density, fabric mass per unit area and decatising affected one or more handle parameters. The best model for predicting wearer prickle discomfort accounted for 90.9% of the variance and included only terms for the WCM and WCM2. The WCM was a good predictor whereas mean fibre diameter was a poor predictor of whether wearers “liked” garments. Wearer assessment of prickle and whether or not wearers “liked” fabrics were independent of fabric handle assessment. The results indicate that the handle and comfort properties of lightweight, wool jersey fabrics can be quantified accurately using the Wool HandleMeter and the Wool ComfortMeter. For fabric handle, fibre and yarn characteristics were less important than changes in the properties of the fabric.

Reprint of: photostability of wool fabrics coated with pure and modified TiO2 colloids

The surface of wool fabrics was coated with TiO2 and TiO2-based nanocomposite colloids and the impact of this coating on the photostability of wool was investigated. TiO2 along with TiO2/Metal and TiO2/Metal/SiO2 sols were synthesized through a low-temperature sol-gel method and applied to fabrics. Composite colloids were synthesized through integrating the silica and three noble metals of silver (Ag), gold (Au) and platinum (Pt) into the synthesis process of sols. Four different molar ratios of Metal to TiO2 (0.01%, 0.1%, 0.5% and 1%) were used to elucidate the role of metal type and amount on the obtained features. Photostability and UV protection features of fabrics were evaluated through measuring the photo-induced chemiluminescence (PICL), photoyellowing rate and ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of fabrics. PICL and photoyellowing tests were carried out under UVA and UVC light sources, respectively. PICL profiles demonstrated that the presence of pure and modified TiO2 nanoparticles on fabrics reduced the intensity of PICL peak indicating a lower amount of polymer free radicals in coated wool, compared to that of pristine fabric. Moreover, a higher PICL peak intensity as well as photoyellowing rate was observed on fabrics coated with modified colloids in comparison with pure TiO2. The surface morphology of fabrics was further characterized using FESEM images.

Transglutaminase mediated grafting of silk proteins onto wool fabrics leading to improved physical and mechanical properties

Transglutaminases have the ability to incorporate primary amines and to graft peptides (containing glutamine or lysine residues) into proteins. These properties enable transglutaminases to be used in the grafting of a range of compounds including peptides and/or proteins onto wool fibres, altering their functionality. In this paper we investigated the transglutaminase mediated grafting of silk proteins into wool and its effect on wool properties. A commercial hydrolysed silk preparation was compared with silk sericin. The silk sericin protein was labelled with a fluorescent probe which was used to demonstrate the efficiency of the TGase grafting of such proteins into wool fibres. The TGase mediated grafting of these proteins led to a significant effect on the properties of wool yarn and fabric, resulting in increased bursting strength, as well as reduced levels of felting shrinkage and improved fabric softness. Also observed was an accumulation of deposits on the surface of the treated wool fibres when monitored by SEM and alterations in the thermal behaviour of the modified fibres, in particular for mTGase/sericin treated fibres which, with the confocal studies, corroborate the physical changes observed on the treated wool fabric. © 2006 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Transglutaminase treatment of wool fabrics leads to resistance to detergent damage

Biological detergents are now routinely used in domestic laundry because the enzymes they contain provide the added benefit of low temperature washes with improved cleaning performance. One of the key enzymes found in these detergents are proteases, which if exposed to natural protein fibres such as wool or silk can cause irreversible damage, leading to loss of fabric strength, shape and poor colour fastness. Transglutaminases (TGases) are protein cross-linking enzymes capable of adding tensile strength to wool proteins, and as a consequence are capable of remediating the damage caused by previous chemical treatments, and more importantly, by proteases. In this paper we treated dyed wool fabric with TGase and then washed the fabric with biological and non-biological detergents to investigate whether TGases would protect wool garments from damage by the undue use of biological detergents in domestic laundry. We demonstrate using different cycles of detergent washes containing biological and non-biological detergents and different TGase treatments, that wool fabric treated previously with TGase release less dye into the washing liquor and in addition maintain fabric strength at levels greater than the washed controls. As a consequence, wool garments previously treated with TGase are likely to have increased resistance to domestic washing and thus provide increased longevity. © 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Objective evaluation of fabric pilling propensity

Fabric pilling is of critical importance to the textile industry. This study developed an objective pilling evaluation method using computer image techniques. The applicability and robustness of the proposed method were investigated based on actual knitted fabrics, the results are very accurate and repeatable.

Antibacterial activity of capsaicin-coated wool fabric

Fabrics made from natural fibers, such as wool and cotton, are susceptible to attacks from micro-organisms, which may damage the fabrics and harm the human body. Antimicrobial finishing of natural textile products may involve harmful and non-environmentally friendly chemicals. In this study, a natural antibacterial agent, capsaicin, was coated on the surface of wool fabrics by a sol-gel process. The antibacterial properties of coated fabrics were evaluated against test bacteria Escherichia coli according to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) method and standard American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) E2149-01. Compared with the control group (sol-gel coated fabric without capsaicin), the capsaicin-coated fabric inhibited bacterial growth markedly after 24 hours incubation at 37°C. The antibacterial efficiency after laundry washes was also investigated. Good durability to washing of capsaicin on fabric was achieved by the sol-gel coating technique.

Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics

Previous investigations have shown that prickle discomfort sensations of wool fabrics are primarily determined by the mean fiber diameter of the wool. It is also known that differences in wool fiber curvature (crimp) affect softness of handle of greasy wool and of wool textiles. In a replicated experiment, we investigated if wearers could detect the effect of using 17 µm superfine wool of low (74°/mm) or high (114°/mm) fiber curvature, and when the wools were blended with 17 µm cashmere (fiber curvature 49°/mm) in differing proportions, on four comfort sensations. Eight single jersey knitted fabrics were assessed under a controlled protocol using forearm sleeves made of the test fabric and a control fabric. Data (37 sensorial assessments of high curvature wool fabrics; 38 sensorial assessments of low curvature wool fabrics) were analyzed using linear mixed model analysis (restricted maximum likelihood), which included fixed effects for wool type and blend ratio and a random effect for participant. The use of a control sleeve fabric reduced variance due to participant effects by providing an anchor for each sensation over time. Wool fiber curvature affected participant assessment of breathability, comfort, feel after exercise (damp/dry) and skin feel (prickly/soft), with preferred values associated with high curvature (crimp) superfine wool. Increasing the proportion of cashmere in fabrics increased skin feel (better assessed softness). Skin feel was strongly associated with the evaluation of the fabrics by the Wool ComfortMeter and with increasing hairiness of yarns.

Dependence of wool fabric dimensions on temperature and pH

Through a series of experimental analysis of temperature and pH value on the expansion of wool fiber and wool fabrics size change. In the pH2.1 solution, the wool fabric size declines with increasing temperature, changing the magnitude depends on the fabric and fabric shape rate. isoelectric point of pH4.8 in the wool, the fibers expand to reach the minimum, while the size of the fabric, along with the solution acidity increases.