Silver Badger Wool Jacket

Lady's wool blazer circa 1967

‘Leger est aprendre mes fort est arendre’: wool, debt, and the dispersal of Pipewell Abbey (1280-1330)

It has long been known that English Cistercian monasteries often sold their wool in advance to foreign merchants in the late thirteenth century. The abbey of Pipewell in Northamptonshire features in a number of such contracts with Cahorsin merchants. This paper looks again at these contracts in the context of over 200 other such agreements found in the governmental records. Why did Pipewell descend into penury over this fifty year period? This case study demonstrates that the promise of ready cash for their most valuable commodity led such abbots to make ambitious agreements – taking on yet more debt to service existing creditors – that would lead to their eventual bankruptcy.

Woolgrowers, brokers and the debate over the sale of the Australian wool clip, 1920-1925

Prior to the First World War, the selling of the Australian wool clip rested firmly in the hands of the large woolbroking firms. An agreement between the British and Australian governments during the war saw many of the wool-selling functions of broking firms taken over by the Central Wool Committee. At the conclusion of hostilities, brokers moved to regain their role in the market. However, market conditions had changed. On an international level, traditional trading relationships had broken down, leaving commodity markets unstable and prices unpredictable. On a local level, woolgrowers had benefited from the wartime orderly marketing scheme and the high price guaranteed by the British government for their wool clip. As a result, they had begun to demand a greater role in the selling arrangements of their clip. This paper investigates the debates over the sale of the wool clip in the 1920s and how woolbrokers and growers eventually arrived at an understanding as to the manner in which the market should operate.

Characterization of conductive polyprrole coated wool yarns

Wool yarns were coated with conducting polypyrrole by chemical synthesis methods. Polymerization of pyrrole was carried out in the presence of wool yarn at various concentrations of the monomer and dopant anion. The changes in tensile, moisture absorption, and electrical properties of the yarn upon coating with conductive polypyrrole are presented. Coating the wool yarns with conductive polypyrrole resulted in higher tenacity, higher breaking strain, and lower initial modulus. The changes in tensile properties are attributed to the changes in surface morphology due to the coating and reinforcing effect of conductive polypyrrole. The thickness of the coating increased with the concentration of p-toluene sulfonic acid, which in turn caused a reduction in the moisture regain of the wool yarn. Reducing the synthesis temperature and replacing p-toluenesulfonic acid by anthraquinone sulfonic acid resulted in a large reduction in the resistance of the yarn.

Resistance to compression behavior of alpaca and wool

This study compares the resistance to compression behavior of wool and alpaca fibers. It shows that alpaca fibers have a much lower resistance to compression than wool, and there is little correlation between the resistance to compression and the curvature for alpaca fibers. Yet for wool fibers, the correlation between resistance to compression and curvature is very strong and positive. The differences in fiber curvature and scale profiles of alpaca and wool, together with the test method for resistance to compression, may explain their different resistances to compression.

Frictional and tensile properties of conducting polymer coated wool and alpaca fibers

Wool and alpaca fibers were coated with polypyrrole by vapor-phase polymerisation method. The changes in frictional and tensile properties of the single fibers upon coating with the conductive polymer are presented. Coating a thin layer of polypyrrole on the alpaca and wool fibers results in a significant reduction in the fiber coefficient of friction, as the conducting polymer layer smooths the protruding edges of the fiber scales. It also reduces the directional friction effect of the fibers. Depending on the type of fiber, the coating may slightly enhance the tensile properties of the coated fibers.

Measuring the influence of fibre-to-fabric properties on the pilling of wool fabrics

This study ranks the contribution of various fibre, yarn and fabric attributes to the pilling of wool knitwear. On the basis of an artificial neural network modelling, a combination of sensitivity analysis, forwards/backwards search and genetic algorithms was used to identify the importance of various fibre/yarn/fabric input parameters. The three different techniques show broad similarities in their assessment of which input parameters are important or are not important in affecting fabric pilling. The ranking shows that fabric cover factor has the most effect on pilling, followed by yarn count and thin places, fibre length, yarn twist, etc. It is further illustrated that the directional trend of the predicted pilling outputs for a selection of inputs was in line with the expected behaviour. To verify the findings of input feature selection, input factors deemed to have a small effect on the predicted pilling output, such as fibre length and diameter variations and curvature, were removed and the subsequent performance statistically compared to the original multi-layer perceptron. Differences between the outputs predicted by the original and pruned models are found not to be statistically significant at the 5% significance level. Results from this study may help manufacturers and knitwear designers in choosing the most appropriate materials and structures to reduce the pilling propensity of wool knitwear.

Predicting the pilling tendency of wool knits

This work investigates the application of artificial neural network modeling (ANN) to model the relationships between fiber, yarn, and fabric properties and the pilling propensity of single jersey and rib pure wool knitted fabrics based on the ICI Pilling Box method. Validation of the model on an independent validation data set suggests that the accurate prediction of pilling propensity is possible with the best performing model achieving a correlation with the subjectively rated pilling grades of approximately 85%. Importantly, it is also illustrated that a larger training set can lead to a marked improvement in the accuracy of predictions.

The hairiness of worsted wool and cashmere yarns and the impact of fiber curvature on hairiness

In this study, a range of carefully selected wool and cashmere yarns as well as their blends were used to examine the effects of fiber curvature and blend ratio on yarn hairiness. The results indicate that yarns spun from wool fibers with a higher curvature have lower yarn hairiness than yarns spun from similar wool of a lower curvature. For blend yarns made from wool and cashmere of similar diameter, yarn hairiness increases with the increase in the cashmere content in the yarn. This is probably due to the presence of increased proportion of the shorter cashmere fibers in the surface regions of the yarn, leading to increased yarn hairiness. A modified hairiness composition model is used to explain these results and the likely origin of leading and trailing hairs. This model highlights the importance of yarn surface composition on yarn hairiness.