Summary of archived Atlantic Coast wave information study : pressure, wind, wave, and water level data /

At head of title: "Wave Information Studies of U.S. Coastlines."

Joint wind wave height-frequency-direction statistics at two disparate sites : final report /

"Prepared for U.S. Army Corps of Engineers ... under Civil Works Research Work Unit 32484."

The effect of wind and wave action on the mixing and dispersion of wastes /

Mode of access: Internet.

Observations on vertical mixing in a closed wind wave system /

Mode of access: Internet.

Wave Sensor Technologies, St Petersburg, Florida, March 7-9, 2007: workshop proceedings

The Alliance for Coastal Technologies (ACT) convened a workshop on "Wave Sensor Technologies" in St. Petersburg, Florida on March 7-9, 2007, hosted by the University of South Florida (USF) College of Marine Science, an ACT partner institution. The primary objectives of this workshop were to: 1) define the present state of wave measurement technologies, 2) identify the major impediments to their advancement, and 3) make strategic recommendations for future development and on the necessary steps to integrate wave measurement sensors into operational coastal ocean observing systems. The participants were from various sectors, including research scientists, technology developers and industry providers, and technology users, such as operational coastal managers and coastal decision makers. Waves consistently are ranked as a critical variable for numerous coastal issues, from maritime transportation to beach erosion to habitat restoration. For the purposes of this workshop, the participants focused on measuring "wind waves" (i.e., waves on the water surface, generated by the wind, restored by gravity and existing between approximately 3 and 30-second periods), although it was recognized that a wide range of both forced and free waves exist on and in the oceans. Also, whereas the workshop put emphasis on the nearshore coastal component of wave measurements, the participants also stressed the importance of open ocean surface waves measurement. Wave sensor technologies that are presently available for both environments include bottom-mounted pressure gauges, surface following buoys, wave staffs, acoustic Doppler current profilers, and shore-based remote sensing radar instruments. One of the recurring themes of workshop discussions was the dichotomous nature of wave data users. The two separate groups, open ocean wave data users and the nearshore/coastal wave data users, have different requirements. Generally, the user requirements increase both in spatial/temporal resolution and precision as one moves closer to shore. Most ocean going mariners are adequately satisfied with measurements of wave period and height and a wave general direction. However, most coastal and nearshore users require at least the first five Fourier parameters ("First 5"): wave energy and the first four directional Fourier coefficients. Furthermore, wave research scientists would like sensors capable of providing measurements beyond the first four Fourier coefficients. It was debated whether or not high precision wave observations in one location can take the place of a less precise measurement at a different location. This could be accomplished by advancing wave models and using wave models to extend data to nearby areas. However, the consensus was that models are no substitution for in situ wave data.[PDF contains 26 pages]

O Fitoplâncton e a dialética da balneabilidade de praias: um estudo de caso na Praia de Itacoatiara, Niterói, RJ.

A praia de Itacoatiara, área de proteção ambiental, localizada no município no Niterói- RJ, tem importante contribuição para o turismo ecológico da região. Busca a certificação ambiental do programa Bandeira Azul e este trabalho buscou cumprir determinação de monitoramento ambiental como um dos critérios do programa. O objetivo foi avaliar a proliferação de microalgas marinhas como sensor da qualidade da balneabilidade diagnosticada através de um bioindicador, o fitoplâncton. As coletas foram realizadas em dois pontos nos meses de novembro de 2008 e de janeiro a março de 2009. Foram encontradas 52 unidades taxonômicas, sendo que 33 pertencem às diatomáceas (Bacillariophyceae), 15 dinoflagelados (Dinophyceae), 1 às cianobactéria (Cyanophyceae), 1 euglenofícea (Euglenophyceae), 1 crisofícea (Chrysophyceae) e 1 prasinofícea (Prasinophyceae) e fitoflagelados. A metodologia seguida foi de sedimentação em cubetas e analisadas em microscópio invertido. A praia de Itacoatiara está caracterizada por sofrer influência de ambientes adjacentes com massas dágua comprometidas promovendo proliferações algais monoespecíficas com densidades consideradas de Bloom. As espécies dominantes foram Tetraselmis sp (Prasinophyceae) considerada potencialmente nociva por apresentar contaminação visual e as Cianobactérias que podem produzir toxinas. Os parâmetros vento, ondulação e maré foram apontadas como os principais carreadores das massas dágua comprometidas até a região estudada. Por cumprir o objetivo geral, conclui-se que o fitoplâncton marinho pode ser utilizado como parâmetro para a caracterização e qualidade da balneabilidade de praias.

Wave forecasts associated with hurricane landfalls in the vicinity of Cape Lookout, North Carolina

Hurricanes can cause extensive damage to the coastline and coastal communities due to wind-generated waves and storm surge. While extensive modeling efforts have been conducted regarding storm surge, there is far less information about the effects of waves on these communities and ecosystems as storms make landfall. This report describes a preliminary use of NCCOS’ WEMo (Wave Exposure Model; Fonseca and Malhotra 2010) to compute the wind wave exposure within an area of approximately 25 miles radius from Beaufort, North Carolina for estuarine waters encompassing Bogue Sound, Back Sound and Core Sound during three hurricane landfall scenarios. The wind wave heights and energy of a site was a computation based on wind speed, direction, fetch and local bathymetry. We used our local area (Beaufort, North Carolina) as a test bed for this product because it is frequently impacted by hurricanes and we had confidence in the bathymetry data. Our test bed conditions were based on two recent Hurricanes that strongly affected this area. First, we used hurricane Isabel which made landfall near Beaufort in September 2003. Two hurricane simulations were run first by passing hurricane Isabel along its actual path (east of Beaufort) and second by passing the same storm to the west of Beaufort to show the potential effect of the reversed wind field. We then simulated impacts by a hurricane (Ophelia) with a different landfall track, which occurred in September of 2005. The simulations produced a geographic description of wave heights revealing the changing wind and wave exposure of the region as a consequence of landfall location and storm intensity. This highly conservative simulation (water levels were that of low tide) revealed that many inhabited and developed shorelines would receive wind waves for prolonged periods of time at heights far above that found during even the top few percent of non-hurricane events. The simulations also provided a sense for how rapidly conditions could transition from moderate to highly threatening; wave heights were shown to far exceed normal conditions often long before the main body of the storm arrived and importantly, at many locations that could impede and endanger late-fleeing vessels seeking safe harbor. When joined with other factors, such as storm surge and event duration, we anticipate that the WEMo forecasting tool will have significant use by local emergency agencies and the public to anticipate the relative exposure of their property arising as a function of storm location and may also be used by resource managers to examine the effects of storms in a quantitative fashion on local living marine resources.

Some behaviours of strongest short-term coastal change induced by cross-shore wave energy flow and corresponding theoretical consideration

There is a number of famous theoretical and experimental works that oriented themselves to solve actual problem of coastal change, including the change of coastline, under versatile influence of oceanic wind waves. In this paper the author would like to give supplementally a few new behaviours of that phenomena observed along the coasts of Vietnam, such as coastal collapse & primitive on-the-spot accumulation, material hurl, etc. Most simple theoretical explanation of them grounding on the Newton's second law has been presented and as results of that there appeared such notion as indicator and criterion which could be used for demarcation of different behaviours in initial stage of general coastal changing processes.

Fine sediment resuspension dynamics in Moreton Bay

A comprehensive field study has been undertaken to investigate sediment resuspension dynamics in the Moreton Bay, a large semi-enclosed bay situated in South East Queensland, Australia. An instrumented tripod, which housed three current meters, three OBS sensors and one underwater video camera, was used to collect the field data on tides, currents, waves and suspended sediment concentrations at four sites (Sites 1, 2, 4, and 5) in the bay. Site I was located at the main entrance, Site 2 at the central bay in deep water, and Sites 4 and 5 at two small bays in shallow water. The bed sediment was fine sand (d(50) = 0. 2 mm) at Site 1, and cohesive sediment at the other three sites. Based on the collected field data, it is found that the dominant driving forces for sediment resuspension are a combination of ocean swell and tidal currents at Site 1, tidal currents at Site 2, and wind-waves at Sites 4 and 5. The critical bed shear stress for cohesive sediment resuspension is determined as 0. 079 Pa in unidirectional flow at Site 2, and 0. 076 Pa in wave-induced oscillatory flow at Site 5.

Sediment dynamics and tidal inlet relocation in mixed-energy settings: the case of Ancão inlet (Algarve - Portugal)

Tese de dout., Ciências do Mar, Faculdade de Ciências do Mar e do Ambiente, Univ. do Algarve, 2003

Texture, composition and provinance of innershelf sediments between Narakkal and Purakkad, Kerala with special reference to the formation of Mud Banks

The continental shelf of southwest coast of India (Kerala) is broader and . flatter compared to that of the east coast. The unique characteristic feature of the study area (innershelf between Narakkal and Purakkad) is the intermittent appearance of 'mud banks' at certain locations during southwest monsoon. The strong seasonality manifests significant changes in the wind, waves, currents, rainfall, drainage etc., along this area. Peculiar geomorphological variation with high, mid and lowlands in the narrow strip of the hinterland, the geological formations mainly consisting of rocks of metamorphic origin and the humid tropical weathering conditions play significant role in regulating the shelf sedimentation. A complementary pattern of distri bution is observed for clay that shows an abundance in the nearshore. Silt, to a major extent, depicts semblance with clay distribution . Summation of the total asymmetry of grain size distribution are inferred from the variation of skewness and kurtosis.Factor I implies a low energy regime where the transportation and deposition phases are controlled mostly by pelagic suspension process as the factor loadings are dominant on finer phi sizes. The second Factor is inferred to be the result of a high energy regime which gives higher loadings on coarser size fractions. The third Factor which might be a transition phase (medium energy regime) representing the resultant flux of coastal circulation of the re-suspension/deposition and an onshoreoffshore advection by reworking and co-deposition of relict and modern sediments. The spatial variations of the energy regime based on the three end-member factor model exhibits high energy zone in the seaward portion transcending to a low energy one towards the coast.From the combined analysis of granulometry and SEM studies, it is concluded that the sandy patches beyond 20 m depth are of relict nature. They are the resultant responses of beach activity during the lower stand of sea level in the Holocene. Re-crystallisation features on the quartz grains indicate that they were exposed to subaerial weathering process subsequent to thei r deposition

Análise da vulnerabilidade de Natal/RN frente às mudanças climáticas

The interaction between land and water, resulting from dynamic agents, such as wind, waves and tides, characterizes the coastal zone as a dynamic environment that is constantly disturbed and that may alter the balance of natural and man-made environment. Such modifications may be intensified when considering the climate change. This environment is highly attractive for the development of economic activities and urbanization, current scenario of the city of Natal. Weighing the economic importance for the state and the physical environment in which the capital of Rio Grande do Norte is inserted, this study aims to identify and analyze vulnerabilities and impacts caused by the rising sea level in the municipality. To that end, we defined a coastline, delimited areas susceptible to flooding and presented some flood scenarios. This way we could identify and analyze the impacts of each flood scenario in its respective section. Finally, it appears that the coastal zone in which Natal is inserted is a fragile area that requires actions aimed at mitigating vulnerabilities and facing the problem that caused the rise in the mean sea level (MSL), and mitigating the presented vulnerability framework; it is necessary to implement actions that effectively contribute to the protection and adaptation of the most fragile areas

Redes neurais artificiais artmap-fuzzy aplicadas ao estudo de agitação marítima e ondas de lagos

Pós-graduação em Engenharia Elétrica - FEIS

Análises, aplicações e validações–numérico/experimentais do modelo SWAN em áreas restritas e ao largo

Pós-graduação em Engenharia Elétrica - FEIS

Weather conditions and phosphorus speciation in waters of the Western Sargasso Sea in October-November 1977

Forms of phosphorus were determined for the first time in the area under study. Based on the ratio between organic and inorganic forms of phosphorus, it is concluded that sorption processes in the thin surface layer and photosynthetic processes in surface water are of the same intensity. Extremely high values of total phosphorus in the thin layer may be indicators of water pollution.