Feasibility study on multifunctional artificial reefs for the Azores

Tese de Doutoramento, Geografia (Ordenamento do Território), 25 de Novembro de 2013, Universidade dos Açores.

Spectral and statistical characteristics of shoaling waves of Alleppey West coast of India

Some investigations on the spectral and statistical characteristics of deep water waves are available for Indian waters. But practically no systematic investigation on the shallow water wave spectral and probabilistic characteristics is made for any part of the Indian coast except for a few restricted studies. Hence a comprehensive study of the shallow water wave climate and their spectral and statistical characteristics for a location (Alleppey) along the southwest coast of India is undertaken based on recorded data. The results of the investigation are presented in this thesis.The thesis comprises of seven chapters

Simulation Of Shoreline Changes Along Muthalapozhy Harbour, India

A study of Muthalapozhy fishing harbour, located in south India, was conducted for simulating shoreline changes using LITPACK modelling tool. The analysis shows that the estimated advancement in shoreline is of the order of 45 m/year initially, which gradually reduces to 25 m/year. It was also found that the coastline advances more during the south-west monsoon (i.e. June to September) season. Simulation of breakwaters shows that the length of the breakwater should be increased by 200 m for south breakwater and 70 m for north breakwater to keep the channel operational without dredging till 2016. The results of the simulated shoreline will help the port managers for maintaining the channel round the year.

Modelagem do clima de ondas e seus efeitos sobre as feições morfológicas costeiras no litoral setentrional do Rio Grande do Norte

This thesis presents the results of application of SWAN Simulating WAves Nearshore numerical model, OF third generation, which simulates the propagation and dissipation of energy from sea waves, on the north continental shelf at Rio Grande do Norte, to determine the wave climate, calibrate and validate the model, and assess their potential and limitations for the region of interest. After validation of the wave climate, the results were integrated with information from the submarine relief, and plant morphology of beaches and barrier islands systems. On the second phase, the objective was to analyze the evolution of the wave and its interaction with the shallow seabed, from three transverse profiles orientation from N to S, distributed according to the parallel longitudinal, X = 774000-W, 783000-W e 800000-W. Subsequently, it was were extracted the values of directional waves and winds through all the months between november 2010 to november 2012, to analyze the impact of these forces on the movement area, and then understand the behavior of the morphological variations according to temporal year variability. Based on the results of modeling and its integration with correlated data, and planimetric variations of Soledade and Minhoto beach systems and Ponta do Tubarão and Barra do Fernandes barrier islands systems, it was obtained the following conclusions: SWAN could reproduce and determine the wave climate on the north continental shelf at RN, the results show a similar trend for the measurements of temporal variations of significant height (HS, m) and the mean wave period (Tmed, s); however, the results of parametric statistics were low for the estimates of the maximum values in most of the analyzed periods compared data of PT 1 and PT 2 (measurement points), with alternation of significant wave heights, at times overrated with occasional overlap of swell episodes. By analyzing the spatial distribution of the wave climate and its interaction with the underwater compartmentalization, it was concluded that there is interaction of wave propagation with the seafloor, showing change in significant heights whenever it interacts with the seafloor features (beachrocks, symmetric and asymmetric longitudinal dunes, paleochannel, among others) in the regions of outer, middle and inner shelf. And finally, it is concluded that the study of the stability areas allows identifications of the most unstable regions, confirming that the greatest range of variation indicates greater instability and consequent sensitivity to hydrodynamic processes operating in the coastal region, with positive or negative variation, especially at Ponta do Tubarão and Barra do Fernandes barrier islands systems, where they are more susceptible to waves impacts, as evidenced in retreat of the shoreline

Secondary Microseisms Characterization and Green’s Function Extraction at the Larderello-Travale Geothermal Field (Italy)

Over the past ten years, the cross-correlation of long-time series of ambient seismic noise (ASN) has been widely adopted to extract the surface-wave part of the Green’s Functions (GF). This stochastic procedure relies on the assumption that ASN wave-field is diffuse and stationary. At frequencies <1Hz, the ASN is mainly composed by surface-waves, whose origin is attributed to the sea-wave climate. Consequently, marked directional properties may be observed, which call for accurate investigation about location and temporal evolution of the ASN-sources before attempting any GF retrieval. Within this general context, this thesis is aimed at a thorough investigation about feasibility and robustness of the noise-based methods toward the imaging of complex geological structures at the local (∼10-50km) scale. The study focused on the analysis of an extended (11 months) seismological data set collected at the Larderello-Travale geothermal field (Italy), an area for which the underground geological structures are well-constrained thanks to decades of geothermal exploration. Focusing on the secondary microseism band (SM;f>0.1Hz), I first investigate the spectral features and the kinematic properties of the noise wavefield using beamforming analysis, highlighting a marked variability with time and frequency. For the 0.1-0.3Hz frequency band and during Spring- Summer-time, the SMs waves propagate with high apparent velocities and from well-defined directions, likely associated with ocean-storms in the south- ern hemisphere. Conversely, at frequencies >0.3Hz the distribution of back- azimuths is more scattered, thus indicating that this frequency-band is the most appropriate for the application of stochastic techniques. For this latter frequency interval, I tested two correlation-based methods, acting in the time (NCF) and frequency (modified-SPAC) domains, respectively yielding esti- mates of the group- and phase-velocity dispersions. Velocity data provided by the two methods are markedly discordant; comparison with independent geological and geophysical constraints suggests that NCF results are more robust and reliable.

Radar profiles from South Shetland Islands/Western Antarctic Peninsula

The sedimentary architecture of polar gravel-beach ridges is presented and it is shown that ridge internal geometries reflect past wave-climate conditions. Ground-penetrating radar (GPR) data obtained along the coasts of Potter Peninsula (King George Island) show that beach ridges unconformably overlie the prograding strand plain. Development of individual ridges is seen to result from multiple storms in periods of increased storm-wave impact on the coast. Strand-plain progradation, by contrast, is the result of swash sedimentation at the beach-face under persistent calm conditions. The sedimentary architecture of beach ridges in sheltered parts of the coast is characterized by seaward-dipping prograding beds, being the result of swash deposition under stormy conditions, or aggrading beds formed by wave overtopping. By contrast, ridges exposed to high-energy waves are composed of seaward- as well as landward-dipping strata, bundled by numerous erosional unconformities. These erosional unconformities are the result of sediment starvation or partial reworking of ridge material during exceptional strong storms. The number of individual ridges which are preserved from a given time interval varies along the coast depending on the morphodynamic setting: sheltered coasts are characterized by numerous small ridges, whereas fewer but larger ridges develop on exposed beaches. The frequency of ridge building ranges from decades in the low-energy settings up to 1600 years under high-energy conditions. Beach ridges in the study area cluster at 9.5, 7.5, 5.5, and below 3.5 m above the present-day storm beach. Based on radiocarbon data, this is interpreted to reflect distinct periods of increased storminess and/or shortened annual sea-ice coverage in the area of the South Shetland Islands for the times around 4.3, c. 3.1, 1.9 ka cal BP, and after 0.65 ka cal BP. Ages further indicate that even ridges at higher elevations can be subject to later reactivation and reworking. A careful investigation of the stratigraphic architecture is therefore essential prior to sampling for dating purposes.

Reaction-diffusion wave fronts: Multigeneration biological species under climate change

A generalization of reaction-diffusion models to multigeneration biological species is presented. It is based on more complex random walks than those in previous approaches. The new model is developed analytically up to infinite order. Our predictions for the speed agree to experimental data for several butterfly species better than existing models. The predicted dependence for the speed on the number of generations per year allows us to explain the change in speed observed for a specific invasion

Sensitivity of GCM tropical middle atmosphere variability and climate to ozone and parametrized gravity wave changes

This paper describes the impact of changing the current imposed ozone climatology upon the tropical Quasi-Biennial Oscillation (QBO) in a high top climate configuration of the Met Office U.K. general circulation model. The aim is to help distinguish between QBO changes in chemistry climate models that result from temperature-ozone feedbacks and those that might be forced by differences in climatology between previously fixed and newly interactive ozone distributions. Different representations of zonal mean ozone climatology under present-day conditions are taken to represent the level of change expected between acceptable model realizations of the global ozone distribution and thus indicate whether more detailed investigation of such climatology issues might be required when assessing ozone feedbacks. Tropical stratospheric ozone concentrations are enhanced relative to the control climatology between 20–30 km, reduced from 30–40 km and enhanced above, impacting the model profile of clear-sky radiative heating, in particular warming the tropical stratosphere between 15–35 km. The outcome is consistent with a localized equilibrium response in the tropical stratosphere that generates increased upwelling between 100 and 4 hPa, sufficient to account for a 12 month increase of modeled mean QBO period. This response has implications for analysis of the tropical circulation in models with interactive ozone chemistry because it highlights the possibility that plausible changes in the ozone climatology could have a sizable impact upon the tropical upwelling and QBO period that ought to be distinguished from other dynamical responses such as ozone-temperature feedbacks.

A robust mechanism for strengthening of the Brewer–Dobson circulation in response to climate change: critical-layer control of subtropical wave breaking

Climate models consistently predict a strengthened Brewer–Dobson circulation in response to greenhouse gas (GHG)-induced climate change. Although the predicted circulation changes are clearly the result of changes in stratospheric wave drag, the mechanism behind the wave-drag changes remains unclear. Here, simulations from a chemistry–climate model are analyzed to show that the changes in resolved wave drag are largely explainable in terms of a simple and robust dynamical mechanism, namely changes in the location of critical layers within the subtropical lower stratosphere, which are known from observations to control the spatial distribution of Rossby wave breaking. In particular, the strengthening of the upper flanks of the subtropical jets that is robustly expected from GHG-induced tropospheric warming pushes the critical layers (and the associated regions of wave drag) upward, allowing more wave activity to penetrate into the subtropical lower stratosphere. Because the subtropics represent the critical region for wave driving of the Brewer–Dobson circulation, the circulation is thereby strengthened. Transient planetary-scale waves and synoptic-scale waves generated by baroclinic instability are both found to play a crucial role in this process. Changes in stationary planetary wave drag are not so important because they largely occur away from subtropical latitudes.

Sensitivity of simulated climate to conservation of momentum in gravity wave drag parameterization

The Canadian Middle Atmosphere Model is used to examine the sensitivity of simulated climate to conservation of momentum in gravity wave drag parameterization. Momentum conservation requires that the parameterized gravity wave momentum flux at the top of the model be zero and corresponds to the physical boundary condition of no momentum flux at the top of the atmosphere. Allowing momentum flux to escape the model domain violates momentum conservation. Here the impact of momentum conservation in two sets of model simulations is investigated. In the first set, the simulation of present-day climate for two model-lid height configurations, 0.001 and 10 hPa, which are identical below 10 hPa, is considered. The impact of momentum conservation on the climate with the model lid at 0.001 hPa is minimal, which is expected because of the small amount of gravity wave momentum flux reaching 0.001 hPa. When the lid is lowered to 10 hPa and momentum is conserved, there is only a modest impact on the climate in the Northern Hemisphere; however, the Southern Hemisphere climate is more adversely affected by the deflection of resolved waves near the model lid. When momentum is not conserved in the 10-hPa model the climate is further degraded in both hemispheres, particularly in winter at high latitudes, and the impact of momentum conservation extends all the way to the surface. In the second set of simulations, the impact of momentum conservation and model-lid height on the modeled response to ozone depletion in the Southern Hemisphere is considered, and it is found that the response can display significant sensitivity to both factors. In particular, both the lower-stratospheric polar temperature and surface responses are significantly altered when the lid is lowered, with the effect being most severe when momentum is not conserved. The implications with regard to the current round of Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change model projections are discussed.

Angular momentum conservation and gravity wave drag parameterization: implications for climate models

The robustness of the parameterized gravity wave response to an imposed radiative perturbation in the middle atmosphere is examined. When momentum is conserved and for reasonable gravity wave drag parameters, the response to a polar cooling induces polar downwelling above the region of the imposed cooling, with consequent adiabatic warming. This response is robust to changes in the gravity wave source spectrum, background flow, gravity wave breaking criterion, and model lid height. When momentum is not conserved, either in the formulation or in the implementation of the gravity wave drag parameterization, the response becomes sensitive to the above-mentioned factors—in particular to the model lid height. The spurious response resulting from nonconservation is found to be nonnegligible in terms of the total gravity wave drag–induced downwelling.

Estimation of optimal gravity wave parameters for climate models using data assimilation

There is a current need to constrain the parameters of gravity wave drag (GWD) schemes in climate models using observational information instead of tuning them subjectively. In this work, an inverse technique is developed using data assimilation principles to estimate gravity wave parameters. Because mostGWDschemes assume instantaneous vertical propagation of gravity waves within a column, observations in a single column can be used to formulate a one-dimensional assimilation problem to estimate the unknown parameters. We define a cost function that measures the differences between the unresolved drag inferred from observations (referred to here as the ‘observed’ GWD) and the GWD calculated with a parametrisation scheme. The geometry of the cost function presents some difficulties, including multiple minima and ill-conditioning because of the non-independence of the gravity wave parameters. To overcome these difficulties we propose a genetic algorithm to minimize the cost function, which provides a robust parameter estimation over a broad range of prescribed ‘true’ parameters. When real experiments using an independent estimate of the ‘observed’ GWD are performed, physically unrealistic values of the parameters can result due to the non-independence of the parameters. However, by constraining one of the parameters to lie within a physically realistic range, this degeneracy is broken and the other parameters are also found to lie within physically realistic ranges. This argues for the essential physical self-consistency of the gravity wave scheme. A much better fit to the observed GWD at high latitudes is obtained when the parameters are allowed to vary with latitude. However, a close fit can be obtained either in the upper or the lower part of the profiles, but not in both at the same time. This result is a consequence of assuming an isotropic launch spectrum. The changes of sign in theGWDfound in the tropical lower stratosphere, which are associated with part of the quasi-biennial oscillation forcing, cannot be captured by the parametrisation with optimal parameters.