Instability and evolution of nonlinearly interacting water waves

We consider the modulational instability of nonlinearly interacting two-dimensional waves in deep water, which are described by a pair of two-dimensional coupled nonlinear Schrodinger equations. We derive a nonlinear dispersion relation. The latter is numerically analyzed to obtain the regions and the associated growth rates of the modulational instability. Furthermore, we follow the long term evolution of the latter by means of computer simulations of the governing nonlinear equations and demonstrate the formation of localized coherent wave envelopes. Our results should be useful for understanding the formation and nonlinear propagation characteristics of large-amplitude freak waves in deep water.

Approximations to the scattering of water waves by steep topography

A new method is developed for approximating the scattering of linear surface gravity waves on water of varying quiescent depth in two dimensions. A conformal mapping of the fluid domain onto a uniform rectangular strip transforms steep and discontinuous bed profiles into relatively slowly varying, smooth functions in the transformed free-surface condition. By analogy with the mild-slope approach used extensively in unmapped domains, an approximate solution of the transformed problem is sought in the form of a modulated propagating wave which is determined by solving a second-order ordinary differential equation. This can be achieved numerically, but an analytic solution in the form of a rapidly convergent infinite series is also derived and provides simple explicit formulae for the scattered wave amplitudes. Small-amplitude and slow variations in the bedform that are excluded from the mapping procedure are incorporated in the approximation by a straightforward extension of the theory. The error incurred in using the method is established by means of a rigorous numerical investigation and it is found that remarkably accurate estimates of the scattered wave amplitudes are given for a wide range of bedforms and frequencies.

On some properties of traveling water waves with vorticity

We prove that for a large class of vorticity functions the crests of any corresponding traveling gravity water wave of finite depth are necessarily points of maximal horizontal velocity. We also show that for waves with nonpositive vorticity the pressure everywhere in the fluid is larger than the atmospheric pressure. A related a priori estimate for waves with nonnegative vorticity is also given.

Steady periodic water waves with constant vorticity: regularity and local bifurcation

This paper studies periodic traveling gravity waves at the free surface of water in a flow of constant vorticity over a flat bed. Using conformal mappings the free-boundary problem is transformed into a quasilinear pseudodifferential equation for a periodic function of one variable. The new formulation leads to a regularity result and, by use of bifurcation theory, to the existence of waves of small amplitude even in the presence of stagnation points in the flow.

Equivalence of weak formulations of the steady water waves equations

We prove the equivalence of three weak formulations of the steady water waves equations, namely: the velocity formulation, the stream function formulation and the Dubreil-Jacotin formulation, under weak Hölder regularity assumptions on their solutions.

A linear model for the structure of turbulence beneath surface water waves

The structure of turbulence in the ocean surface layer is investigated using a simplified semi-analytical model based on rapid-distortion theory. In this model, which is linear with respect to the turbulence, the flow comprises a mean Eulerian shear current, the Stokes drift of an irrotational surface wave, which accounts for the irreversible effect of the waves on the turbulence, and the turbulence itself, whose time evolution is calculated. By analysing the equations of motion used in the model, which are linearised versions of the Craik–Leibovich equations containing a ‘vortex force’, it is found that a flow including mean shear and a Stokes drift is formally equivalent to a flow including mean shear and rotation. In particular, Craik and Leibovich’s condition for the linear instability of the first kind of flow is equivalent to Bradshaw’s condition for the linear instability of the second. However, the present study goes beyond linear stability analyses by considering flow disturbances of finite amplitude, which allows calculating turbulence statistics and addressing cases where the linear stability is neutral. Results from the model show that the turbulence displays a structure with a continuous variation of the anisotropy and elongation, ranging from streaky structures, for distortion by shear only, to streamwise vortices resembling Langmuir circulations, for distortion by Stokes drift only. The TKE grows faster for distortion by a shear and a Stokes drift gradient with the same sign (a situation relevant to wind waves), but the turbulence is more isotropic in that case (which is linearly unstable to Langmuir circulations).

Stability of periodic travelling shallow-water waves determined by Newton`s equation

We study the existence and stability of periodic travelling-wave solutions for generalized Benjamin-Bona-Mahony and Camassa-Holm equations. To prove orbital stability, we use the abstract results of Grillakis-Shatah-Strauss and the Floquet theory for periodic eigenvalue problems.

The Korteweg-de Vries hierarchy and long water-waves

By using the multiple scale method with the simultaneous introduction of multiple times, we study the propagation of long surface-waves in a shallow inviscid fluid. As a consequence of the requirements of scale invariance and absence of secular terms in each order of the perturbative expansion, we show that the Korteweg-de Vries hierarchy equations do play a role in the description of such waves. Finally, we show that this procedure of eliminating secularities is closely related to the renormalization technique introduced by Kodama and Taniuti. © 1995 American Institute of Physics.

Water waves generated by local disturbance: Serre's model validity

Water waves generated by landslides were long menace in certain localities and the study of this phenomenon were carried out at an accelerated rate in the last decades. Nevertheless, the phase of wave creation was found to be very complex. As such, a numerical model based on Boussinesq equations was used to describe water waves generated by local disturbance. This numerical model takes in account the vertical acceleration of the particles and considers higher orders derivate terms previously neglected by Boussinesq, so that in the generation zone, this model can support high relative amplitude of waves.

Optimal Boussinesq model for shallow-water waves interacting with a microstructure

In this paper, we consider the propagation of water waves in a long-wave asymptotic regime, when the bottom topography is periodic on a short length scale. We perform a multiscale asymptotic analysis of the full potential theory model and of a family of reduced Boussinesq systems parametrized by a free parameter that is the depth at which the velocity is evaluated. We obtain explicit expressions for the coefficients of the resulting effective Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equations. We show that it is possible to choose the free parameter of the reduced model so as to match the KdV limits of the full and reduced models. Hence the reduced model is optimal regarding the embedded linear weakly dispersive and weakly nonlinear characteristics of the underlying physical problem, which has a microstructure. We also discuss the impact of the rough bottom on the effective wave propagation. In particular, nonlinearity is enhanced and we can distinguish two regimes depending on the period of the bottom where the dispersion is either enhanced or reduced compared to the flat bottom case. © 2007 The American Physical Society.

A numerical model for predicting the effects of landslide-generated water waves /

Final report.