A solution to fashion textile unsustainability

Today, polarisation of the fashion textile industry has already begun as smart, intelligent and conscientious fashion emerges as a backlash to the experience of choice fatigue, poor quality, dumb design and greenwash. But the process, development and manufacture of fashion textiles is complex. And the demand, both customer and industry driven, for new integrated product policies,2 designed to minimise environmental impacts by looking at all phases of a product's life cycle, is problematic due to complexity and a lack of networking tools. This article explores these issues through the construct of the department store of the future.

Protective legal regulation for home-based workers in Australian textile, clothing and footwear supply chains

Supply chain outsourcing has posed problems for conventional labour regulation, which focuses on employers contracting directly with workers, particularly employees. These difficulties have been exacerbated by the traditional trifurcated approach to regulation of pay and conditions, work health and safety and workers’ compensation. This paper analyses the parallel interaction of two legal developments within the Australian textile, clothing and footwear industry. The first is mandatory contractual tracking mechanisms within state and federal labour laws and the second is the duties imposed by the harmonised Work Health and Safety Acts. Their combined effect has created an innovative, fully enforceable and integrated regulatory framework for the textile, clothing and footwear industry and, it is argued, other supply chains in different industry contexts. This paper highlights how regulatory solutions can address adverse issues for workers at the bottom of contractual networks, such as fissured workplaces and capital fragmentation, by enabling regulators to harness the commercial power of business controllers at the apex to ensure compliance throughout the entire chain.

Collaborative Design in a Virtual Learning Environment : Three Design Experiments in Textile Teacher Education

The aim of the study was to analyze and facilitate collaborative design in a virtual learning environment (VLE). Discussions of virtual design in design education have typically focused on technological or communication issues, not on pedagogical issues. Yet in order to facilitate collaborative design, it is also necessary to address the pedagogical issues related to the virtual design process. In this study, the progressive inquiry model of collaborative designing was used to give a structural level of facilitation to students working in the VLE. According to this model, all aspects of inquiry, such as creating the design context, constructing a design idea, evaluating the idea, and searching for new information, can be shared in a design community. The study consists of three design projects: 1) designing clothes for premature babies, 2) designing conference bags for an international conference, and 3) designing tactile books for visually impaired children. These design projects constituted a continuum of design experiments, each of which highlighted certain perspectives on collaborative designing. The design experiments were organized so that the participants worked in design teams, both face-to-face and virtually. The first design experiment focused on peer collaboration among textile teacher students in the VLE. The second design experiment took into consideration end-users needs by using a participatory design approach. The third design experiment intensified computer-supported collaboration between students and domain experts. The virtual learning environments, in these design experiments, were designed to support knowledge-building pedagogy and progressive inquiry learning. These environments enabled a detailed recording of all computer-mediated interactions and data related to virtual designing. The data analysis was based on qualitative content analysis of design statements in the VLE. This study indicated four crucial issues concerning collaborative design in the VLE in craft and design education. Firstly, using the collaborative design process in craft and design education gives rise to special challenges of building learning communities, creating appropriate design tasks for them, and providing tools for collaborative activities. Secondly, the progressive inquiry model of collaborative designing can be used as a scaffold support for design thinking and for reflection on the design process. Thirdly, participation and distributed expertise can be facilitated by considering the key stakeholders who are related to the design task or design context, and getting them to participate in virtual designing. Fourthly, in the collaborative design process, it is important that team members create and improve visual and technical ideas together, not just agree or disagree about proposed ideas. Therefore, viewing the VLE as a medium for collaborative construction of the design objects appears crucial in order to understand and facilitate the complex processes in collaborative designing.

Study on degradation of H-acid by Alcaligenes latus isolated from textile industrial effluent

This study presents 100% degradation of H-acid under optimized conditions using Alcaligenes latus, isolated from textile industrial effluent. Gene/s responsible for H-acid degradation was/were found to be present on plasmid DNA. Addition of bipyridyl to incubated medium resulted in accumulation of terminal aromatic compound, suggesting that catechol may be terminal aromatic compound in degradation pathway of H-acid by A. latus. SDS-PAGE of cell free extracts showed two prominent bands close to molecular weight of catechol 1,2-dioxygenase.

Extraction, purification and analysis of conotoxin of Conus textile captured from Persian Gulf and the investigation of analgesic effects of conotoxins in an animal model

Identification of venomous species of Persian Gulf cone snails and characterization of venom composition and their features is so important from the point of medical importance. Marine cone snails from the genus Conus are estimated to consist of up to 700 species. The venom of cone snails has yielded a rich source of novel neuroactive peptides or conotoxins. The present study was aimed to study the analgesic effect of Persian Gulf Conus textile and its comparison with morphine in mouse model. The specimens of Conus textile were collected of Larak Island from depth of 7 m. The collected samples were transferred to laboratory alive and were stored at -700 c. he veno s ducts were separated and ho ogenized with deionized water he ixture centrifuged at rp for inutes upernatant was considered as extracted veno and stored at - C after lyophylization. The protein profile of venom determined by using SDS-PAGE and HPLC used to investigate the extracted venom and to evaluate the analgesic activity, formalin test was carried out. SDS-PAGE indicated several bands ranged between 6 and 250 kDa. Chromatogram of the venom demonstrated more than 44 large and small fractions. The amount of 10 ng of Conus crude venom and analgesic peptide showed the best anti-pain activity in formalin test. No death observed up to 100 mg/kg, which is 250,000 times higher than the effective dose.Venom characterization of Persian Gulf Conus textile may be of medical importance and potential for new pharmaceutical drugs as well.

Effects of thiamine on treatment performance of textile wastewater

Textile wastewater is commonly treated with activated sludge process technology. However, its treatment performance has not been demonstrated to be very effective. In this study, the effects of micronutrient thiamine on removal efficiencies of dissolved organic carbon (DOC) and chemical oxygen demand (COD) of textile wastewater in a batch test, together with its effect on the oxygen uptake rate (OUR) of activated sludge, were evaluated. Significant improvements were observed in the removal rates of DOC, COD and OUR with 121%, 156% and 121% of those of the control, respectively, when 0.5-2.0 mg/L thiamine was added to the wastewater treatment system. Thiamine could be probably used to improve the treatment performance of textile wastewater.

TEXTILE TECHNOLOGIES IN CONCRETE ENVIRONMENTS."

Girli Concrete is a cross disciplinary funded research project based in the University of Ulster involving a textile designer/ researcher, an architect/ academic and a concrete manufacturing firm.
Girli Concrete brings together concrete and textile technologies, testing ideas of
concrete as textile and textile as structure. It challenges the perception of textiles as only the ‘dressing’ to structure and instead integrates textile technologies into the products of building products. Girli Concrete uses ‘low tech’ methods of wet and dry concrete casting in combination with ‘high tech’ textile methods using laser cutting, etching, flocking and digital printing. Whilst we have been inspired by recent print and imprint techniques in architectural cladding, Girli Concrete is generated within the depth of the concrete’s cement paste “skin”, bringing the trades and crafts of both industries together with innovative results.
Architecture and Textiles have an odd, somewhat unresolved relationship. Confined to a subservient role in architecture, textiles exist chiefly within the categories of soft furnishings and interior design. Girli Concrete aims to mainstream tactility in the production of built environment products, raising the human and environmental interface to the same specification level as the technical. This paper will chart:
The background and wider theoretical concerns to the project.
The development of Girli Concrete, highlighting the areas where craft becomes
art and art becomes science in the combination of textile and concrete
technologies.
The challenges of identifying funding to support such combination technologies,
working methods and philosophies.
The challenges of generating and sustaining practice within an academic
research environment
The outcomes to date

Implementation of a non-orthogonal model for the finite element simulation of textile composite draping

In the pursuit of producing high quality, low-cost composite aircraft structures, out-of-autoclave manufacturing processes for textile reinforcements are being simulated with increasing accuracy. This paper focuses on the continuum-based, finite element modelling of textile composites as they deform during the draping process. A non-orthogonal constitutive model tracks yarn orientations within a material subroutine developed for Abaqus/Explicit, resulting in the realistic determination of fabric shearing and material draw-in. Supplementary material characterisation was experimentally performed in order to define the tensile and non-linear shear behaviour accurately. The validity of the finite element model has been studied through comparison with similar research in the field and the experimental lay-up of carbon fibre textile reinforcement over a tool with double curvature geometry, showing good agreement.

The importance of quality in the consolidation of textile in Minho

The textile industry has a long tradition in Portugal and it is one of the most important sectors, despite the current economic crisis. It has always assumed a prominent role in terms of employment and a relevant position within the Portuguese economy. The lack of quality and the lower prices that other countries offer causes the loss of clients. Quality is a main tool to survive nowadays in the textile sector. To undertake our analysis, we made use of an existing database where 55 firms belonged to the textile industry, namely to the manufacturing sector. A new survey was created based on the original survey and was sent to 5 firms. Besides the survey, we also sent a few questions to the firms in order to retract more information about the actually situation in our country, concerning the textile industry. Several tables, graphs and pie charts were made to help shed light on our findings. This research was conducted in order to determine the importance of quality in the consolidation of textile firms in the north of Portugal. Most firms in our sample feel that quality improvement, business benefits, mobilizing employees’ knowledge and business image were important and that competition is very intense and is mainly by price and not by differentiation of product or service. The quality program has contributed to improve their competitive position and the improvement of their overall performance. The majority of the firms in our sample undertake TQM measures for quality purposes to meet customer expectations and prevent errors. Of all firms surveyed, the quality is certainly very important for its survival.

International partner selection Indian technical textile market

Due to a combination of a vast agricultural industry and a tremendously growing technical textile industry, Ludvig Svensson identified India as target market for possible expansion through domestic production and supply. However, Svensson needed additional information about the industry structure and key players. Therefore, this project focused on a detailed analysis of the technical textile market and its players by following the international partner selection process. Thereby, five key players were identified as potential partners, as well as the need for additional research to determine alternative entry modes, as the market does not currently seem to be receptive for Svensson products.

Codes de conduite et droit d'association : une étude exploratoire du secteur du textile

Avec la globalisation de l’économie, l’entreprise traditionnelle est devenue un réseau global de producteurs liés par des contrats. À la suite de certains abus commis par les entreprises multinationales, notamment en ce qui concerne les droits fondamentaux des travailleurs, les entreprises et la société civile ont développé des mécanismes de régulation privés dont les codes de conduite privés. La présente étude cherche à déterminer quels pouvaient être les véritables destinataires des codes de conduite : les travailleurs du pays d’origine de l’entreprise (généralement situés dans un pays développé) ou les travailleurs des pays de production (généralement situés dans des pays en développement). À cette fin, le mémoire compare le contenu des codes de conduite de Nike, de Gap et de Levi-Strauss sur ce sujet avec les observations de l’Organisation internationale du travail pour les travailleurs des États-Unis, de l’Inde et du Bangladesh. Certains écarts entre les protections accordées par les codes et les besoins des travailleurs sont ainsi identifiés. Dans la dernière partie du mémoire, la question d’étude est élargie afin d’examiner si les codes ne seraient pas destinés à des personnes autres que les travailleurs, soient les consommateurs, les actionnaires ou l’entreprise elle-même.

Global Value Chain Linkages of Manufacturing Export Firms: A Study of The Kannur Home Textile Industry

The literature on the involvement of developing countries in trade has focused on the effects of different aspects of globalization on firms, regions and countries. The study attempts to examine how an export based industry, locallyembedded and originated on the basis of regional strengths has been inserted into the global trade framework. Though the unit of analysis is the manufacturing export firm in the region of Kannur, it represents the entire home textile export industry from the state of Kerala, as close to 90% of fabric exports in home furnishing material, textiles for upholstery and decoration and stitched or fused, and branded made ups are from the region. From a global perspective, how developing countries face newer trade restrictions and overcome non quota barriers by firm and region specific activities within a value chain framework is a major research area, which has already contributions from the Ludhiana woolen cluster (Tewari,1999 ) and the Tirupur cluster in India (Cawthorne, 1995). The study contributes to the value chain literature by examining the governance and upgrading as well as how firms benefit from linkages. India has a number of export oriented agglomerations or regions where firms have been serving export markets for many years. In many cases it is no longer the supply side policy actions that determine how they are able to penetrate new markets or expand existing market share. Based on this study it becomes possible to understand how the global value chain operates in these different industries to examine whether there is a danger of immiserisation of growth or low road growth