An approach to absorptive capacity based on the Portuguese textile industry(Final version)

The main purpose of this research is to identify the hidden knowledge and learning mechanisms in the organization in order to disclosure the tacit knowledge and transform it into explicit knowledge. Most firms usually tend to duplicate their efforts acquiring extra knowledge and new learning skills while forgetting to exploit the existing ones thus wasting one life time resources that could be applied to increase added value within the firm overall competitive advantage. This unique value in the shape of creation, acquisition, transformation and application of learning and knowledge is not disseminated throughout the individual, group and, ultimately, the company itself. This work is based on three variables that explain the behaviour of learning as the process of construction and acquisition of knowledge, namely internal social capital, technology and external social capital, which include the main attributes of learning and knowledge that help us to capture the essence of this symbiosis. Absorptive Capacity provides the right tool to explore this uncertainty within the firm it is possible to achieve the perfect match between learning skills and knowledge needed to support the overall strategy of the firm. This study has taken in to account a sample of the Portuguese textile industry and it is based on a multisectorial analysis that makes it possible a crossfunctional analysis to check on the validity of results in order to better understand and capture the dynamics of organizational behavior.

Bending effects on a textile microstrip antenna

This paper describes the design of a textile microstrip antenna for 2.4 GHz. Two different fabrics are used: one for the dielectric part and another one for the conductor part. The dielectric constant of the dielectric fabric is determined experimentally. The input matching is studied by electromagnetic simulation and experimentally. Since the antenna is meant to be incorporated in the user's clothe, the effect that the antenna bending has on the matching level is also investigated both theoretically and experimentally.

Basic dyestuffs removal from textile effluents using feathers: equilibrium, kinetic and column studies

This research work has been focused in the study of gallinaceous feathers, a waste that may be valorised as sorbent, to remove the Dark Blue Astrazon 2RN (DBA) from Dystar. This study was focused on the following aspects: optimization of experimental conditions through factorial design methodology, kinetic studies into a continuous stirred tank adsorber (at pH 7 and 20ºC), equilibrium isotherms (at pH 5, 7 and 9 at 20 and 45ºC) and column studies (at 20ºC, at pH 5, 7 and 9). In order to evaluate the influence of the presence of other components in the sorption of the dyestuff, all experiments were performed both for the dyestuff in aqueous solution and in real textile effluent. The pseudo-first and pseudo-second order kinetic models were fitted to the experimental data, being the latter the best fit for the aqueous solution of dyestuff. For the real effluent both models fit the experimental results and there is no statistical difference between them. The Central Composite Design (CCD) was used to evaluate the effects of temperature (15 - 45ºC) and pH (5 - 9) over the sorption in aqueous solution. The influence of pH was more significant than temperature. The optimal conditions selected were 45ºC and pH 9. Both Langmuir and Freundlich models could fit the equilibrium data. In the concentration range studied, the highest sorbent capacity was obtained for the optimal conditions in aqueous solution, which corresponds to a maximum capacity of 47± 4 mg g-1. The Yoon-Nelson, Thomas and Yan’s models fitted well the column experimental data. The highest breakthrough time for 50% removal, 170 min, was obtained at pH 9 in aqueous solution. The presence of the dyeing agents in the real wastewater decreased the sorption of the dyestuff mostly for pH 9, which is the optimal pH. The effect of pH is less pronounced in the real effluent than in aqueous solution. This work shows that feathers can be used as sorbent in the treatment of textile wastewaters containing DBA.

Natural waste materials containing chitin as adsorbents for textile dyestuffs: batch and continuous studies

In this work three natural waste materials containing chitin were used as adsorbents for textile dyestuffs, namely the Anodonta (Anodonta cygnea) shell, the Sepia (Sepia officinalis) and the Squid (Loligo vulgaris) pens. The selected dyestuffs were the Cibacron green T3G-E (CI reactive green 12), and the Solophenyl green BLE 155% (CI direct green 26), both from CIBA, commonly used in cellulosic fibres dyeing, the most used fibres in the textile industry. Batch equilibrium studies showed that the materials’ adsorption capacities increase after a simple and inexpensive chemical treatment, which increases their porosity and chitin relative content. Kinetic studies suggested the existence of a high internal resistance in both systems. Fixed bed column experiments performed showed an improvement in adsorbents’ behaviour after chemical treatment. However, in the column experiments, the biodegradation was the main mechanism of dyestuff removal, allowing the materials’ bioregeneration. The adsorption was strongly reduced by the pore clogging effect of the biomass. The deproteinised Squid pen (grain size 0.500–1.41 mm) is the adsorbent with highest adsorption capacity (0.27 and 0.037 g/g, respectively, for the reactive and direct dyestuffs, at 20ºC), followed by the demineralised Sepia pen and Anodonta shell, behaving like pure chitin in all experiments, but showing inferior performances than the granular activated carbon tested in the column experiments.

Practices and trends of telework in the Portuguese industry: the results of surveys in the textile, metal and software sectors

The aim of the TeleRisk Project on labour relations and professional risks within the context of teleworking in Portugal – supported by IDICT – Institute for Development and Inspection of Working Conditions (Ministry of Labour), is to study the practices and forms of teleworking in the manufacturing sectors in Portugal. The project chose also the software industry as a reference sector, even though it does not intend to exclude from the study any other sector of activity or the so-called “hybrid” forms of work. However, the latter must have some of the characteristics of telework. The project thus takes into account the so-called “traditional” sectors of activity, namely textile and machinery and metal engineering (machinery and equipment), not usually associated to this type of work. However, telework could include, in the so-called “traditional” sectors, other variations that are not found in technologically based sectors. One of the evaluation methods for the dynamics associated to telework consisted in carrying out surveys by means of questionnaires, aimed at employers in the sectors analysed. This paper presents some of the results of those surveys. It is important to mention that, being a preliminary analysis, it means that it does not pretend to have exhausted all the issues in the survey, but has meant that it shows the bigger tendencies, in terms of teleworking practices, of the Portuguese industry.

Change Processes and Future Perspectives in the Knowledge Society. The Example of Clothing and Textile Industry

The paper examines change processes und future perspectives in the knowledge society. It presents the clothing and textile industry as an example for a transforming industry in a global economy. The paper reviews existing future studies, which have surveyed change processes and future developments in the clothing and textile industry. Main goals of the review are the identification of changes in work and the description of the restructuring of global value chains within the clothing and textile sector. The paper also highlights major current trends, drivers of change and future prospects in this sector.

Zara: Marketing in Fast Fashion: A case-study

Zara was founded in 1975 by Amancio Ortega Gaona, soon becoming the largest and most successful chain of the Galician group Inditex (Industria de Diseño Textil) and a pioneer of the rising fashion category of Fast Fashion. Its innovative vertically-integrated strategies, combined with its emphasis on quality and demand-based offer have shaped the world of fashion and brought forth many questions on its future sustainability and growth. Zara has always relied on its store network for advertising its product offer; allowing its garments to “speak for themselves”. With the continued pressure felt in the industry, management has pressed some concerns about future company growth and creative, innovating solutions must be implemented to guarantee Zara’s future growth. The case-study narrative focuses on these issues and leaves readers with an open question regarding what decision to implement.

Dedicated Followers of Fashion : do toucador de Belinda ao quarto de Carlos

O presente artigo visa analisar e confrontar duas passagens que, em nossa opinião, não só patenteiam algumas semelhanças estruturais ou formais como poderão eventualmente cumprir nas obras respectivas uma função homóloga, enquanto denúncia de males (ou advertência contra perigos) sociais e morais engendrados(áveis) pelo crescimento e/ou florescimento económico(s) como o materialismo, a mundanidade e a ociosidade. A primeira passagem, extraída de The Rape of the Lock, de Alexander Pope (1688-1744), reconstitui-nos o toucador de uma recém-acordada Belinda, enquanto a segunda, colhida de Uma Família Inglesa, de Júlio Dinis (1839-71), nos franqueia as portas do quarto de um ainda adormecido Carlos Whitestone. Embora não seja evidentemente possível nem sequer desejável desenraizar por completo estas passagens dos solos textuais de onde brotaram (o poema herói-cómico de Pope e aquele que é, afinal, o único romance citadino de Júlio Dinis) nem talvez da demais produção literária dos respectivos autores, procuraremos situar-nos neste estudo ao nível restrito dos trechos, deles extravazando apenas na medida do que tivermos por útil, conveniente ou necessário.

Which communication strategy should a male luxury (fashion) brand – associated with a luxury car brand – develop, in order to increase its awareness in Europe

This work project explores how a male luxury (fashion) brand (subsidiary) that is associated with a luxury car brand (parent company) should develop its communication strategy in order to increase awareness in Europe. For this purpose a quantitative research was conducted. The aim was to find out whether the company in question had low brand awareness among European luxury consumers. Hereafter, a qualitative research revealed important insights in regard to luxury communication among male luxury consumers. Both the results of the research and the recommendations of luxury experts laid the foundation for the development of a solution-oriented communication strategy. The result of the analysis crystallizes the importance of the shared heritage and the synergistic effects, of which the subsidiary should make vast use when communicating.

International partner selection Indian technical textile market

Due to a combination of a vast agricultural industry and a tremendously growing technical textile industry, Ludvig Svensson identified India as target market for possible expansion through domestic production and supply. However, Svensson needed additional information about the industry structure and key players. Therefore, this project focused on a detailed analysis of the technical textile market and its players by following the international partner selection process. Thereby, five key players were identified as potential partners, as well as the need for additional research to determine alternative entry modes, as the market does not currently seem to be receptive for Svensson products.

Evaluation of the performance of recycled textile fibres in the mechanical behaviour of a gypsum and cork composite material

Given the need for using more sustainable constructive solutions, an innovative composite material based on a combination of distinct industrial by-products is proposed aiming to reduce waste and energy consumption in the production of construction materials. The raw materials are thermal activated flue-gas desulphurization (FGD) gypsum, which acts as a binder, granulated cork as the aggregate and recycled textile fibres from used tyres intended to reinforce the material. This paper presents the results of the design of the composite mortar mixes, the characterization of the key physical properties (density, porosity and ultrasonic pulse velocity) and the mechanical validation based on uniaxial compressive tests and fracture energy tests. In the experimental campaign, the influence of the percentage of the raw materials in terms of gypsum mass, on the mechanical properties of the composite material was assessed. It was observed that the percentage of granulated cork decreases the compressive strength of the composite material but contributes to the increase in the compressive fracture energy. Besides, the recycled textile fibres play an important role in the mode I fracture process and in the fracture energy of the composite material, resulting in a considerable increase in the mode I fracture energy.

Step towards of a homemade business intelligence solution: A case study in textile industry

Nowadays, organizations are increasingly looking to invest in business intelligence solutions, mainly private companies in order to get advantage over its competitors, however they do not know what is necessary. Business intelligence allows an analysis of consolidated information in order to obtain more specific outlets and certain indications in order to support the decision making process. You can take the right decision based on the data collected from different information systems present in the organization and outside of them. The textile sector is a sector where concept of Business Intelligence it is not many explored yet. Actually there are few textile companies that have a BI platform. Thus, the article objective is present an architecture and show all the steps by which companies need to spend to implement a successful free homemade Business Intelligence system. As result the proposed approach it was validated using real data aiming assess the steps defined.

Degradation of all-inkjet-printed organic thin-film transistors with TIPS-pentacene under processes applied in textile manufacturing

Printed electronics represent an alternative solution for the manufacturing of low-temperature and large area flexible electronics. The use of inkjet printing is showing major advantages when compared to other established printing technologies such as, gravure, screen or offset printing, allowing the reduction of manufacturing costs due to its efficient material usage and the direct-writing approach without requirement of any masks. However, several technological restrictions for printed electronics can hinder its application potential, e.g. the device stability under atmospheric or even more stringent conditions. Here, we study the influence of specific mechanical, chemical, and temperature treatments usually appearing in manufacturing processes for textiles on the electrical performance of all-inkjet-printed organic thin-film transistors (OTFTs). Therefore, OTFTs where manufactured with silver electrodes, a UV curable dielectric, and 6,13-bis(triisopropylsilylethynyl) pentance (TIPS-pentacene) as the active semiconductor layer. All the layers were deposited using inkjet printing. After electrical characterization of the printed OTFTs, a simple encapsulation method was applied followed by the degradation study allowing a comparison of the electrical performance of treated and not treated OTFTs. Industrial calendering, dyeing, washing and stentering were selected as typical textile processes and treatment methods for the printed OTFTs. It is shown that the all-inkjet-printed OTFTs fabricated in this work are functional after their submission to the textiles processes but with degradation in the electrical performance, exhibiting higher degradation in the OTFTs with shorter channel lengths (L=10 μm).

Towards high performance and multi-functional structural membranes using advanced fibrous and textile materials

Scientific and technological advancements in the area of fibrous and textile materials have greatly enhanced their application potential in several high-end technical and industrial sectors including construction, transportation, medical, sports, aerospace engineering, electronics and so on. Excellent performance accompanied by light-weight, mechanical flexibility, tailor-ability, design flexibility, easy fabrication and relatively lower cost are the driving forces towards wide applications of these materials. Cost-effective fabrication of various advanced and functional materials for structural parts, medical devices, sensors, energy harvesting devices, capacitors, batteries, and many others has been possible using fibrous and textile materials. Structural membranes are one of the innovative applications of textile structures and these novel building skins are becoming very popular due to flexible design aesthetics, durability, lightweight and cost benefits. Current demand on high performance and multi-functional materials in structural applications has motivated to go beyond the basic textile structures used for structural membranes and to use innovative textile materials. Structural membranes with self-cleaning, thermoregulation and energy harvesting capability (using solar cells) are examples of such recently developed multi-functional membranes. Besides these, there exist enormous opportunities to develop wide varieties of multi-functional membranes using functional textile materials. Additionally, it is also possible to further enhance the performance and functionalities of structural membranes using advanced fibrous architectures such as 2D, 3D, hybrid, multi-layer and so on. In this context, the present paper gives an overview of various advanced and functional fibrous and textile materials which have enormous application potential in structural membranes.

Fashion communication: a way to change comsumption behaviour towards ethical fashion

In view of the major social and environmental problems, with which we are faced nowadays, we noticed a certain absence of values in society, where man draws many more resources than nature can replace in the short or medium term. Within the framework of fashion emerges the ethical fashion as a movement in this direction, intending to change this current paradigm. Ethical fashion encompasses different concepts such as fair trade, sustainability, working conditions, raw materials, social responsibility and the protection of animals. This study aims to determine which type of communication are fashion brands using in this context, and if this communication aims at educating the consumer for a more ethical consumer behavior. For this study were selected 44 fashion brands associated with the Ethical Trade Initiative. The method used for the research development was content analysis for which first was made a data collection of the information provided on the websites and social networks of the selected fashion brands. The data was analyzed taking into account the quality and type of information published related to ethical fashion, for which an ordinal scale was created as a way of measuring and comparing results.