Distinção entre areias eolicas e praiais pele analise discriminante

Beach deposits occur in high energy environments with continual sorting by swash and backswash. The fines are removed by the backswash, which is not competent to remove the coarser material. Hence negative asymmetry (skewness) results. The wind transports only the finer fraction to the dunes, resulting in a tendency towards a positively skewed distribution. In the case studied the aeolian sand has a mean asymmetry of 0.13, the beach sand -0.11. Equivalent values for mean grain size and standard deviation are 2.51 and 0.24 (aeolian) and 2.41 and 0.37 (beach). Beach sands are therefore coarser and less well sorted than aeolian sands. -V.Gardiner

A sucessão siliciclástica-carbonática neocarbonífera da bacia do Amazonas, regiões de Monte Alegre e Itaituba (PA)

Registros sedimentares do Neocarbonífero, particularmente do Moscoviano, na Bacia do Amazonas, Norte do Brasil, caracterizam a zona de contato entre as formações Monte Alegre (rochas siliciclásticas) e Itaituba (rochas carbonáticas). A análise faciológica da sucessão Moscoviana de até 40 m de espessura, exposta na região de Monte Alegre e Itaituba, Estado do Pará, permitiu identificar 5 associações de fácies (AF), que correspondem a depósitos estabelecidos no ambiente costeiro, representados por dunas/intedunas eólicas (AF1), lençóis de areia/wadi (AF2), laguna/washover (AF3), praia/planície de maré (AF4) e laguna/delta de maré (AF5). A associação de campo de dunas/interdunas (AF1) é constituída por arenitos finos a médios, bimodais com estratificação cruzada de médio porte, laminação cavalgante transladante subcrítica e arenitos com gradação inversa. Arenitos finos com acamamento maciço, marcas de raízes e, subordinadamente, verrugas de aderência (adhesion warts), ocorrem nos limites dos sets de estratificação cruzada e indicam, respectivamente, paleossolos e migração de grãos por ação eólica sobre interduna úmida. Depósitos de lençóis de areia/wadi (AF2) são compostos de arenitos finos a médios com estratificação plano-paralela e laminação cavalgante transladante subcrítica, relacionados a superfícies de deflação (lençóis de areia), enquanto arenitos finos a médios com estratificações cruzadas tangencial e recumbente, e acamamento convoluto, caracterizam rios efêmeros com alta energia. Pelitos laminados e arenitos finos com laminação cruzada cavalgante, contendo o icnofóssil Palaeophycus, representam sedimentação em ambiente de baixa energia e foram agrupados na associação de laguna/washover (AF3). Os depósitos de praia/planície de maré (AF4) consistem em arenitos finos a médios, com estratificação plano-paralela a cruzada de baixo ângulo, intercalados com lentes de dolomito fino maciço, localmente truncados por arenitos finos a médios. Estas fácies foram formadas pelo fluxo-refluxo em ambiente de praia, localmente retrabalhadas por pequenos canais, enquanto o carbonato é interpretado como precipitado em poças (ponds). Na AF4 encontram-se também pelitos laminados com gretas de contração, lâminas curvadas de argila e arenitos com estratificação cruzada tabular de pequeno a médio porte, contendo filmes de argila sobre foresets e superfícies de reativação, sugerindo a migração de sandwaves na intermaré. A associação de laguna/delta de maré (AF5) é constituída por calcários dolomitizados (mudstones, wackestones, packstones e grainstones) com poros do tipo vug e móldicos e bioclastos de braquiópodes, equinodermas, foraminíferos, ostracodes, briozoários, trilobitas, moluscos e coral isolado não fragmentado, além do ichnofóssil Thalassinoides. Conglomerados com seixos de calcário dolomitizado, arenitos finos com estratificação cruzada de baixo ângulo e superfícies de reativação, localmente sobrepostos por arenitos finos com estratificação cruzada sigmoidal e laminação cruzada cavalgante, foram interpretados como depósitos de tidal inlet e delta de maré. As associações de fácies/microfácies e os dados paleontológicos descritos neste trabalho corroboram a predominância de ambientes lagunares, em parte, conectados a um ambiente desértico costeiro para o intervalo de transição entre as formações Monte Alegre e Itaituba. A abundância de grãos arredondados de areia fina nas fácies carbonáticas corrobora influxo siliciclástico advindo do ambiente desértico adjacente ao ambiente costeiro. Condições mais quentes e tropicais para a sucessão estudada são também indicadas pela presença de carbonatos e argilominerais como illita e, principalmente, esmectita, bem como uma fauna diversificada. Os litotipos siliciclásticos e carbonáticos intercalados que caracterizam a fase final da deposição Monte Alegre e o início da sedimentação Itaituba, justificam sua representação em um mesmo sistema deposicional costeiro.

Wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern Santa Catarina coast

Com base no clima de ondas para o sul da costa brasileira, a refração de ondas foi modelada para a obtenção de alturas e direção das ondas ao longo da costa sul de Santa Catarina. Essas informações permitem a estimativa da deriva litorânea potencial para a região. De acordo com a orientação da linha de costa, diferentes setores do litoral apresentam variados padrões de deriva. As estimativas foram realizadas com base nos dados médios anuais e para cada estação do ano, demonstrando assim a variabilidade dos padrões ao longo do ano. A configuração da linha de costa e os resultados das estimativas de intensidade e direção da deriva indicam o predomínio da deriva litorânea na porção sul da área e um equilíbrio entre processos de espraiamento e de deriva na porção norte. Padrões contrastantes de deriva entre a porção sul e norte da linha de costa indicam um balanço positivo de sedimentos na porção central, disponibilizando sedimentos para os processos de transporte através da costa. Considerando escalas temporais maiores, os padrões de deriva concordam com o processo de preenchimento costeiro que é controlado principalmente pelo aporte de sedimentos pela deriva litorânea.

Morfodinâmica costeira e o uso da orla oceânica de Salinópolis (Nordeste do Pará)

Os aspectos morfodinâmicos relacionados à erosão ou acresção da linha de costa são alguns dos assuntos analisados na gestão das zonas costeiras que vêem sendo tratada em todo mundo no sentido de monitorar e proteger essas zonas. Esta tese objetiva analisar o comportamento da morfodinâmica costeira de Salinópolis, relacionando-o ao uso da orla oceânica. A área de estudo foi compartimentada em três setores: Oeste (praias da Corvina e do Maçarico), Central (praia do Farol Velho) e Leste (praia do Atalaia). A metodologia consistiu na: (a) aquisição e tratamento de imagens multitemporais (1988-2001-2013) do satélite Landsat 5 TM, 7 ETM e 8 OLI; (b) aplicação de entrevistas/questionários com banhistas, (c) aquisição de dados de campo durante as estações chuvosa (26, 27, 28/04/2013) e menos chuvosa (04, 05, 06/10/2013); e (d) análise laboratorial para o tratamento dos dados adquiridos em campo (topografia das praias estudadas, amostragem de sedimentos superficiais das mesmas e com o uso de armadilhas, e medições oceanográficas de ondas, marés, correntes e turbidez). Foram feitas as representações gráficas dos perfis topográficos das praias, calculados os parâmetros estatísticos granulométricos de Folk & Ward (1957), as taxas do transporte sedimentar nas praias e os parâmetros morfométricos de Short & Hesp (1982), estes últimos foram calculados com o intuito de relacioná-los aos estados morfodinâmicos de praias propostos por Wright & Short (1984) e Masselink & Short (1993). Para a classificação da costa oceânica de Salinópolis em termos de uso e ocupação foi utilizado o decreto nº 5.300 de 7 de dezembro de 2004. A partir das pesquisas sobre a urbanização na costa e das obras situadas nos ambientes costeiros foi utilizada uma matriz proposta por Farinaccio & Tessler (2010) que lista uma série de impactos ambientais, e o quadro de geoindicadores do comportamento da linha de costa proposto por Bush et al. (1999), para a identificação de locais com vulnerabilidade à erosão ou acresção. Para as condições oceanográficas em cada praia e periculosidade ao banho nas mesmas, foram integralizados os dados de ondas, de correntes, de morfodinâmica praial e questionários aplicados com banhistas. Atualmente, a orla oceânica de Salinópolis possui diferentes características quanto à utilização e conservação, abrangendo desde a tipologia de orlas naturais (Classe A) até orlas com urbanização consolidada (Classe C). A primeira ocorre nos extremos da área de estudo e, a segunda, na região da sede municipal. Quatro tipos de praias foram identificados segundo a exposição marítima e o grau das condições oceanográficas: tipo 1 (Maçarico), tipo 2 (Corvina), tipo 3 (Farol Velho) e tipo 4 (Atalaia). O trecho de costa com maiores impactos ambientais e com elevada erosão costeira localiza-se na praia do Farol Velho. O grau de periculosidade ao banho foi de 4 (praia do Maçarico) a 7 (praia do Atalaia) – médio a alto grau de risco. As praias de Salinópolis apresentam declives suaves (< 1,5°), grandes variações na linha de costa entre as estações do ano (9,6 a 88, 4 m) e volume sedimentar variável dependendo do grau de exposição das praias ao oceano aberto. Predominou o estado morfodinâmico dissipativo (Ω>5,5) para estas praias, mas com ocorrência do estado de banco e calha longitudinais (4,7<Ω<5,5) no setor oeste. As macromarés na área de estudo apresentaram altura máxima de 5,3 m (Setor Central, durante a estação menos chuvosa) e mínima de 4 m no mesmo setor, durante a estação chuvosa. As correntes longitudinais foram mais intensas no setor leste (>0,45 m/s) durante as duas estaçoes do ano. As alturas de ondas foram também maiores no setor leste (máximo de 1,05 m durante a maré enchente na estação menos chuvosa) e os períodos de ondas foram mais curtos (<4,5 s) no setor oeste. A média granulométrica obtida dos sedimentos coletados na face praial apresentou escala mais freqüente entre 2,6 a 2,8 phi, indicando a predominância de areia fina. O grau de seleção predominante dos sedimentos foi de 0,2 a 0,5 phi (muito bem selecionados e bem selecionados), e da assimetria foi de positiva (0,10 a 0,30) e de aproximadamente simétrica (-0,10 a 0,10). O grau de curtose variou desde muito platicúrtica (<0,67) a muito leptocúrtica (1,50 a 3,00). Foram observados eventos de acresção sedimentar da estação chuvosa a menos chuvosa. De 22/07/1988 a 28/08/2013 (25 anos) também houve predomínio de acresção, onde o avanço médio linear da linha de costa foi de 190,26 m. O recuo médio linear obtido para toda área de estudo foi de -42,25 m. Áreas com maior erosão são pontuais: divisas das praias da Corvina e Maçarico, e Farol Velho e Atalaia. Os traps portáteis indicaram uma maior quantidade de sedimentos transportados longitudinalmente na estação menos chuvosa (Mín. 280 g/m³: enchente, setor oeste; Máx. 1098 g/m³: vazante, setor leste). Nos traps de espraiamento, o balanço entre a quantidade de sedimentos entrando e saindo nas praias foi menor no setor central (Mín. 80 g/m³: vazante, estação menos chuvosa; Máx. 690 g/m³: enchente, estação menos chuvosa). A circulação costeira sedimentar é proveniente, principalmente, do efeito das marés, com direção governada pela enchente e vazante dos rios que atravessam a costa. Os dados indicam o transporte longitudinal de sedimentos da ilha de Atalaia e rio Sampaio para o setor oeste e as margens das faixas praiais.

Radar profiles from South Shetland Islands/Western Antarctic Peninsula

The sedimentary architecture of polar gravel-beach ridges is presented and it is shown that ridge internal geometries reflect past wave-climate conditions. Ground-penetrating radar (GPR) data obtained along the coasts of Potter Peninsula (King George Island) show that beach ridges unconformably overlie the prograding strand plain. Development of individual ridges is seen to result from multiple storms in periods of increased storm-wave impact on the coast. Strand-plain progradation, by contrast, is the result of swash sedimentation at the beach-face under persistent calm conditions. The sedimentary architecture of beach ridges in sheltered parts of the coast is characterized by seaward-dipping prograding beds, being the result of swash deposition under stormy conditions, or aggrading beds formed by wave overtopping. By contrast, ridges exposed to high-energy waves are composed of seaward- as well as landward-dipping strata, bundled by numerous erosional unconformities. These erosional unconformities are the result of sediment starvation or partial reworking of ridge material during exceptional strong storms. The number of individual ridges which are preserved from a given time interval varies along the coast depending on the morphodynamic setting: sheltered coasts are characterized by numerous small ridges, whereas fewer but larger ridges develop on exposed beaches. The frequency of ridge building ranges from decades in the low-energy settings up to 1600 years under high-energy conditions. Beach ridges in the study area cluster at 9.5, 7.5, 5.5, and below 3.5 m above the present-day storm beach. Based on radiocarbon data, this is interpreted to reflect distinct periods of increased storminess and/or shortened annual sea-ice coverage in the area of the South Shetland Islands for the times around 4.3, c. 3.1, 1.9 ka cal BP, and after 0.65 ka cal BP. Ages further indicate that even ridges at higher elevations can be subject to later reactivation and reworking. A careful investigation of the stratigraphic architecture is therefore essential prior to sampling for dating purposes.

Water level time series and sediment grain size model

The environment of ebb-tidal deltas between barrier island systems is characterized by a complex morphology with ebb- and flood-dominated channels, shoals and swash bars connecting the ebb-tidal delta platform to the adjacent island. These morphological features reveal characteristic surface sediment grain-size distributions and are subject to a continuous adaptation to the prevailing hydrodynamic forces. The mixed-energy tidal inlet Otzumer Balje between the East Frisian barrier islands of Langeoog and Spiekeroog in the southern North Sea has been chosen here as a model study area for the identification of relevant hydrodynamic drivers of morphology and sedimentology. We compare the effect of high-energy, wave-dominated storm conditions to mid-term, tide-dominated fair-weather conditions on tidal inlet morphology and sedimentology with a process-based numerical model. A multi-fractional approach with five grain-size fractions between 150 and 450 µm allows for the simulation of corresponding surface sediment grain-size distributions. Net sediment fluxes for distinct conditions are identified: during storm conditions, bed load sediment transport is generally onshore directed on the shallower ebb-tidal delta shoals, whereas fine-grained suspended sediment bypasses the tidal inlet by wave-driven currents. During fair weather the sediment transport mainly focuses on the inlet throat and the marginal flood channels. We show how the observed sediment grain-size distribution and the morphological response at mixed-energy tidal inlets are the result of both wave-dominated less frequent storm conditions and mid-term, tide-dominant fair-weather conditions.

Runup variability due to time dependence and stochasticity in the beach profiles: two extreme cases of the Spanish coast

Equations for extreme runup worked out from several experimental studies are compared. Infragraviatory oscillations dominate the swash in a dissipative state but not in intermediate - reflective states. Therefore two kinds of equation depending on either significant wave height, H-0, or the Iribarren number, xi(0), should be used. Through a sand bed physical model with a uniform sand bed slope, equations are proposed for both beach states, and results are compared with precedent field and physical model experiments. Once the equations are chosen, the time-longshore variability in a medium - long term time scale of the foreshore slope is evaluated in two extreme cases relating to the Spanish coast. The Salinas beach on the North coast (Bay of Biscay) displayed a permanent dissipative beach state with small variations in the beach foreshore slope both along the shore and in time, so foreshore slope deviations in a medium-long term period were irrelevant and extreme runup is predicted with the wave height worked out from the design return period. Peniscola beach on the East coast (Mediterranean sea) displayed an intermediate state. If only time variations are analysed, variations in determining extreme runup are irrelevant. In contrast, significant differences were found when the longshore variations were studied in this Mediterranean beach.

Coral communities exposed to differential large amplitude internal waves cooling and a severe heat stress in 2010 in the Andaman Sea

Tropical scleractinian corals are particularly vulnerable to global warming as elevated sea surface temperatures (SST) disrupt the delicate balance between the coral host and their algal endosymbionts, leading to symbiont expulsion, mass bleaching and mortality. While satellite sensing of SST has proven a good predictor of coral bleaching at the regional scale, there are large deviations in bleaching severity and mortality on the local scale, which are only poorly understood. Here, we show that internal waves play a major role in explaining local coral bleaching and mortality patterns in the Andaman Sea. In spite of a severe region-wide SST anomaly in May 2010, frequent upslope intrusions of cold sub-pycnocline waters due to breaking large amplitude internal waves (LAIW) alleviated heating and mitigated coral bleaching and mortality in shallow LAIW-exposed waters. In LAIW-sheltered waters, by contrast, bleaching susceptible species suffered severe bleaching and total mortality. These findings suggest that LAIW, which are ubiquitous in tropical stratified waters, benefit coral reefs during thermal stress and provide local refugia for bleaching susceptible corals. The swash zones of LAIW may thus be important, so far overlooked, conservation areas for the maintainance of coral diversity in a warming climate. The consideration of LAIW can significantly improve coral bleaching predictions and can provide a valuable tool for coral reef conservation and management.

Long-term effects of beach nourishment on the benthic fauna of Panama City Beach, Florida /

The long-term effects of beach nourishment on the benthic infauna and surface sediments of Panama City beaches were investigated. Forty-seven stations located on nine transects between West Pass and Philips Inlet, and two nourishment borrow sites were sampled in November-December 1979 and May 1980. The data collected were compared to prenourishment base-line information collected by Saloman (1976). Abiotic parameters, water temperature, dissolved oxygen and salinity were measured. Sediments were analyzed for particle-size distribution, percent organic carbon and percent carbonate. Benthic macroinvertebrates were represented by 162 taxa of 14 major animal phyla. Species composition and faunal densities varied seasonally. Polychaetes and amphipods were the most abundant animal groups; a small number of species were dominant at nearly all stations. Species diversity was lowest in the swash zone and sandbar stations and highest offshore. Sediment composition was similar to that of Saloman's (1976) study within limits of sampling and processing errors. Faunal composition was found to be different from 1976 but was attributed to normal seasonal and spatial variations. Based on benthic community analyses and sediment parameters, no significant differences were found between nourishment borrow sites and surrounding areas and in the nearshore areas where beach nourishment was conducted. No long-term adverse effects of beach nourishment were detected. (Author).

Settling velocity of sediments at high concentrations

New data on the settling velocity of artificial sediments and natural sands at high concentrations are presented. The data are compared with a widely used semiempirical Richardson and Zaki equation (Trans. Inst. Chem. Eng. 32 (1954) 35), which gives an accurate measure of the reduction in velocity as a function of concentration and an experimentally determined empirical power n. Here, a simple method of determining n is presented using standard equations for the clear water settling velocity and the seepage flow within fixed sediment beds. The resulting values for n are compared against values derived from new and existing laboratory data for beach and filter sands. For sands, the appropriate values of n are found to differ significantly from those suggested by Richardson and Zaki for spheres, and are typically larger, corresponding to a greater reduction in settling velocity at high concentrations. For fine and medium sands at concentrations of order 0.4, the hindered settling velocity reduces to about 70% of that expected using values of n derived for spheres. At concentrations of order 0.15, the hindered settling velocity reduces to less than half of the settling velocity in clear water. These reduced settling velocities have important implications for sediment transport modelling close to, and within, sheet flow layers and in the swash zone.

Hindered settling of sand grains

The sedimentation rate of sand grains in the hindered settling regime has been considered to assess particle shape effects. The behaviour of various particulate systems involving sand has been compared with the widely used Richardson-Zaki expression. The general form of the expression is found to hold, in as much as remaining as a suitable means to describe the hindered settling of irregular particles. The sedimentation exponent n in the Richardson-Zaki expression is found to be significantly larger for natural sand grains than for regular particles. The hindered settling effect is therefore greater, leading to lower concentration gradients than expected. The effect becomes more pronounced with increasing particle irregularity. At concentrations around 0.4, the hindered settling velocity of fine and medium natural sands reduces to about 70% of the value predicted using existing empirical expressions for n. Using appropriate expressions for the fluidization velocity and the clear water settling velocity, a simple method is discussed to evaluate the sedimentation exponent and to determine the hindered settling effect for sands of various shapes.

Large scale experiments on gravel and mixed beaches: Experimental procedure, data documentation and initial results

This paper provides information on the experimental set-up, data collection methods and results to date for the project Large scale modelling of coarse grained beaches, undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) of FZK in Hannover by an international group of researchers in Spring 2002. The main objective of the experiments was to provide full scale measurements of cross-shore processes on gravel and mixed beaches for the verification and further development of cross-shore numerical models of gravel and mixed sediment beaches. Identical random and regular wave tests were undertaken for a gravel beach and a mixed sand/gravel beach set up in the flume. Measurements included profile development, water surface elevation along the flume, internal pressures in the swash zone, piezometric head levels within the beach, run-up, flow velocities in the surf-zone and sediment size distributions. The purpose of the paper is to present to the scientific community the experimental procedure, a summary of the data collected, some initial results, as well as a brief outline of the on-going research being carried out with the data by different research groups. The experimental data is available to all the scientific community following submission of a statement of objectives, specification of data requirements and an agreement to abide with the GWK and EU protocols. (C) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach

This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, the change in depth across the group leads to asymmetry in the forcing which generates significant dynamic setup in front of the group during shoaling. Strong amplification of the incident dynamic setup occurs after short-wave breaking. The data show the radiation of a transient long wave dominated by a pulse of positive elevation, preceded and followed by weaker trailing waves with negative elevation. The instantaneous cross-shore structure of the long wave shows the mechanics of the reflection process and the formation of a transient node in the inner surf zone. The wave run-up and relative amplitude of the radiated and incident long waves suggests significant modification of the incident bound wave in the inner surf zone and, the dominance of long waves generated by the breaking process. It is proposed that these conditions occur when the primary short waves and bound wave are not shallow water waves at the breakpoint. A simple criterion is given to determine these conditions, which generally occur for the important case of storm waves.